News:

Please add your location to your profile. It will help others to help you!

Main Menu

I need to find as many horsies as possible

Started by SELfor50, 17 October 2007, 10:55 PM

SELfor50

How do you count how many degrees??  Are there marks, or should i use a protractor?  ???

And Ian, now that you mention it - one of my mates went flying last saturday with his mate who's a pilot.  Will be talking to him in the morning.  Fingers crossed.  ;D
It's available at wakefield and stuff - but the hill-climb track doesn't have a pump and as it's only once a month on hill-climb day i don't think they see it as worthwile.
You can buy it at plenty other tracks though.. :(
I don't know how receptive Shell would be?!

Just to confirm - would it be better for performance to change the fuel filter if it was done only 15,000km's ago?

oscar

Quote from: SELfor50 on 18 October 2007, 05:24 AM

3.  What do i adjust and how do i do it?  (Oscar, this is where you step in with pics.. ;)  )

Damn, I missed my cue.  It's too dark for pics now :D  The only pics I have don't reveal much.Ummm

Fuck it, my camera has a flash I suppose ;D

The pic below is taken from in front of the engine, the black dizzy cap is to the right.  Smack bang in the middle and in focus is the dizzy retaining hex bolt that you need to loosen, don't remove.  (it can be hard to get back in).  You'll need a 5mm hex attachment that you can attach to a socket wrench and extension shaft, or, use a  very long 5mm allen key.  Once loosened, the dizzy then can then twist either way.  Just like what Andrew says - Clockwise is to Retard, Anti-Clockwise is to advance.  Do it whilst the engine is running.  You'll hear the revs pick up when you advance and drop off when you retard.

You don't need a timing light as such but it helps for record keeping.  I use one but when I'm mucking around trying for max advance I advance it, go for a drive, pull over, advance some more, drive, and keep doing so untill I get some pinging then back it off a little, retarding it until there's no pinging under any circumstance.  When I've advanced too far the first signs for me are pinging on hard acceleration with engine warm.  As for pinging itself, it's only thru this forum that I learnt what it sounds like last year.  Like a steel nut rattling in an empty tin can.  Anyway, when I get back to the garage I then put a timing light on to see how many degrees I end up at.

So yeah, basically you can adjust the timing without a light and no need to remove dizzy cap either.  Just advance the dizzy a little at a time to get max advance without pinging under hard acceleration.
Oh yeah, about degrees.  Look around the edge of the vibration dampner, the end of the crankshaft, where the lower pulley hub is.  You'll see markings around there like a ruler.  No pics sorry, it's def' too dark now.   By using a timing light, once connected, it will strobe once every time a spark travels thru the first ignition lead.  Aiming the light at the timing marks and the marker on the block, you'll be able to tell how many degrees advance or retard you end up at.  Check the Haynes manual.  Pretty sure there's pics of it there.

1973 350SE, my first & fave

SELfor50

Word brother...
As always, your pics are spot on!!!

I have a set of the handled long allen keys... so will get that cranking this weekend.
Obviously it's best to do it with the best fuel possible in there?

I'll give this a crack.  Thanks again for your help peeps!!

Cam.

WGB

Quote from: CraigS on 18 October 2007, 05:48 AM
I thought it was available if you were a member of an officially sanctioned club, but don't know who you would ask. I guess the fuel companies are not gong to be too helpful, but I guess it is worth a call to Shell.

I think there is the question of tax on avgas - it has less because it is not used on the road.

I would also be careful with advancing the ignition as these engines sound pretty nasty pretty quick when advanced and will run hot as well if too far advanced.

There is a beautifully crafted set of timing marks on the crankshaft pully with a small pointer visible on the front cover of the engine directly below the distributor on the left side of the motor. (On your right side looking from the front)

I would invest in a cheap timing light and only advance the ignition a couple of degrees at a time.

Bill


John Hubertz

Phenomenally thorough thread on performance restoration in m-100 currently active.

Before thinking fuel or just one item, I'd review that thread.

Everything...  from throttle linkage slop to trans oil viscosity to brake drag...  can effect performance.

John Hubertz
"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
(Hunter S. Thompson) 

1977 450SEL (Max Headroom)
[img width=68 height=73][url="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f248/fullhappyfish/max.jpg"]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f248/fullhappyfish/max.jpg[/url][/img]

UT_Tech

Here in the USA you can get a dyno test for about $100. 
It's very likely that your engine is below spec for slight
adjustment reasons.   The Dyno test will tell you that.

After extensive dyno testing we found that m100 engines are
very responsive to tweaking the mixture richer and a bit
more ignition advance until just shy of pre-ignition.  That
sort of tweaking is easy with CIS, not sure how to do it
with D-jet.

SELfor50

Thanks lads - i got the CIS injection.

Will be tweaking the mixture and timing in the next couple days.

Will scope out that thread John.  Much appreciated!!  ;)
Throttle linkages i'm thinking could do with a polish...

John Hubertz

http://www.m-100.cc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2888

Here's the horsepower link - fabulous discussion of all the variables for power and performance.
John Hubertz
"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
(Hunter S. Thompson) 

1977 450SEL (Max Headroom)
[img width=68 height=73][url="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f248/fullhappyfish/max.jpg"]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f248/fullhappyfish/max.jpg[/url][/img]

craigb

Just chucking in my 2 bobs worth. Timing lights are relatively cheap, you will probably only buy one in your whole life and if you are competing you can hook it up anytime and see what your timing is in an instant, even in between runs.

You can buy avgas above board with a special log book you get from the Australian Historic Motoring Federation or affiliated clubs. There is a list of participating garages that you get it from too. There is no guarantee this will continue but at present I think their licence goes until the end of 2008 when government will review the situation.

When my brother was rallying he got a big drum of octance booster (toluene?) and added that at every refill. He had incredibly high compression and this did the trick - I don't think avgas was high enough octane for him from memory.

I would invest in a dynotune by someone who knows what they are doing. Someone at your hillclimb will suggest a good local for you I would think. The best bit about this is what someone else here is saying about being able to fiddle with different combinations and see what the effect is on the rolling road and flat out, just like you are doing. The can load up the rollers too and replicate climbing too. I haven't seen your other posts but if you are starting competition, I would always go through and replace all your ignition bits (leads points cap, whatever is applicable)  to start afresh and change brake fluid now and then a couple of times each season.  Also the dyno will show up little faults like sticky advance mechanisms and worn distributors etc etc.

I know this will add up to a bit but if you get it right you don't need to keep chasing things andd each time you will have that bit more fun.

Hope something in that helps. I can get numbers if you want an AHMF contact.
1980 280s