Understandably, being a 30yr old car there's been a few horsies let out of the paddock.
Can anyone suggest some 'quick' (which excludes total engine re-build)
job's that will increase the performance of my engine prior to the next
race meet.. (Oh no, he's said the "R" word again.)
I'm after advice of anything at all, that you think might help with performance.
Below are a list of things that should help a little bit...but if you think
there is ANYTHING else that might help, please let me know.
1. With the vacuum lines which one's should i replace and what
do they go to and from (eg. what engine parts are the lines between).
I'm mainly talking bout the one's that have to do with the efficient
running of the engine(performance wise)...doesn't matter bout central locking etc.
2. Also with the spark plugs, i had new one's put in bout 15000Km's ago.
Should i change these over as well?
3. Oil change getting done too - what's the best oil i should use for race / hot lap purposes?
Eg. I'm guessing not too thick so it doesn't need the engine to work as hard to pump it.
4. Fuel filter was done 15000km's ago, should i do that again too?
Any advice, greatly appreciated...
Thanks in advance. ;)
NOS. ;)
Okay, so I'm not really sure.
Disregarding weight saving measures we're just talking engine right? I'm thinking cold air intake. Get a bit of intake hose from supercheap, attach to the air cleaner housing and try and face it forward to the outside.
You got a 560 air cleaner housing too correct? You should still be able to attach something to both snorkels.
Quote from: Andrew280SEL on 17 October 2007, 11:00 PM
NOS. ;)
Soon my friend... just not yet.
Quote from: oscar on 17 October 2007, 11:25 PM
Disregarding weight saving measures we're just talking engine right? I'm thinking cold air intake. Get a bit of intake hose from supercheap, attach to the air cleaner housing and try and face it forward to the outside.
You got a 560 air cleaner housing too correct? You should still be able to attach something to both snorkels.
Piping / snorkels were already on for last event...damn knew there were some pics i'd forgot to post.
Will post those tonight.
That and the K&N filter already in place.
Should i tinker with the throttle cable at all??? Maybe try and tighten it up a bit?
I'm thinking over time it's probably not hitting WOT all the way?!
Lower your diff ratio! For hill climbing go as low as possible. Going from a 3.07 to a 4.11 will feel like you have an extra 50HP instantly. The don't make them for MBs, but a 4.6 diff will feel like an additional 100HP has been added.
I've already told you this, but its going to give you the greatest increase in acceleration. Infact you'll have to learn to modulate your accelerator on take off and coming out of corners as it'll be too easy to light 'em up.
But the diff ratio isn't something i can just adjust is it?
I need to replace the whole diff yeah??
If so, this will be done next month...this month my money is going into the purchase of a W116 relative.. ;)
I'm talking bout little things that i can do myself before next weekend.
Like the vac lines and timing etc - only thing is i don't know which lines and where they go to and from.. :(
Also the timing i've never done and am counting on Rog for some guidance....rog...you out there mate? ;)
Try some Avgas
One of the problems with a 560 aircleaner is relocating the battery as the new pipe passes over this area where there is little clearance.
Avgas (or an octabne booster) with some extra ignition advance would be a simple fix.
Bill
I was going to do this Bill - ran out of time - as plenty of room in the boot and my father-in-law had a nice Marine application box that it was going to be suitably sealed in.
i will be decatting the car, getting some intake hose, and maybe installing a new Exhaust Canister.. Magnaflow maybe...
50% avgas is a good starting point on the 1st run, then advnace the ignition by 3-4 degrees for the 2nd run, if it seems happier add more avgas (or drain the petrol in there and add pure avgas and run that for the 3rd run, and if it still seems happy then try another 1-2 degree increase in ignition advance. if its pinging just back off and throw that run, retard your ignition a bit.
Ok.... sounds good.
Only thing is - where am i gonna get avgas??? Would the airport have any? ::)
Or will a couple bottles of Octane boost be ok, and then just advance the timing?
And... once and for all - confirm the procedure to advance the timing for me.
1. Do i need a timing light??
2. Do i just remove the dizzy cap to adjust it
3. What do i adjust and how do i do it? (Oscar, this is where you step in with pics.. ;) )
Bill.. i sorted out the battery problem by grabbing a hack-saw and snipping bout 5-6cm's off the left side (looking at it from the front of engine bay) pipe. Then i got 2 x 1M lengths of the silicon piping and it fits perfectly past the battery (though the batt is right at the front now) and down to the front for the cold air intake.
[will have photos up in the morning]
To retard or advance the timing I think you just turn the distributor itself: Clockwise is to Retard, Anti-Clockwise is to advance.
However, you need to undo a screw to loosen the distributor, which I think you need an allen key or something silly to do so. The screw is just under the distributor, if you look straight down you can't miss it.
But yes, Oscar's famous pics wouldn't go astray. ;)
Ask around at work, someone who has an ultralight plane or a Cessna or a pilots lisence should be able to hook up a brother with some Avgas from the local airport. Or just call them and ask - not sure if they can sell to the general public but it might be a matter pf who you talk to there...
20L should be enough for one day's competition.
I.
I thought it was available if you were a member of an officially sanctioned club, but don't know who you would ask. I guess the fuel companies are not gong to be too helpful, but I guess it is worth a call to Shell.
How do you count how many degrees?? Are there marks, or should i use a protractor? ???
And Ian, now that you mention it - one of my mates went flying last saturday with his mate who's a pilot. Will be talking to him in the morning. Fingers crossed. ;D
It's available at wakefield and stuff - but the hill-climb track doesn't have a pump and as it's only once a month on hill-climb day i don't think they see it as worthwile.
You can buy it at plenty other tracks though.. :(
I don't know how receptive Shell would be?!
Just to confirm - would it be better for performance to change the fuel filter if it was done only 15,000km's ago?
Quote from: SELfor50 on 18 October 2007, 05:24 AM
3. What do i adjust and how do i do it? (Oscar, this is where you step in with pics.. ;) )
Damn, I missed my cue. It's too dark for pics now :D The only pics I have don't reveal much.Ummm
Fuck it, my camera has a flash I suppose ;D
The pic below is taken from in front of the engine, the black dizzy cap is to the right. Smack bang in the middle and in focus is the dizzy retaining hex bolt that you need to loosen,
don't remove. (it can be hard to get back in). You'll need a 5mm hex attachment that you can attach to a socket wrench and extension shaft, or, use a very long 5mm allen key. Once loosened, the dizzy then can then twist either way. Just like what Andrew says -
Clockwise is to Retard, Anti-Clockwise is to advance. Do it whilst the engine is running. You'll hear the revs pick up when you advance and drop off when you retard.
You don't need a timing light as such but it helps for record keeping. I use one but when I'm mucking around trying for max advance I advance it, go for a drive, pull over, advance some more, drive, and keep doing so untill I get some pinging then back it off a little, retarding it until there's no pinging under any circumstance. When I've advanced too far the first signs for me are pinging on hard acceleration with engine warm. As for pinging itself, it's only thru this forum that I learnt what it sounds like last year. Like a steel nut rattling in an empty tin can. Anyway, when I get back to the garage I then put a timing light on to see how many degrees I end up at.
So yeah, basically you can adjust the timing without a light and no need to remove dizzy cap either. Just advance the dizzy a little at a time to get max advance without pinging under hard acceleration.
Oh yeah, about degrees. Look around the edge of the vibration dampner, the end of the crankshaft, where the lower pulley hub is. You'll see markings around there like a ruler. No pics sorry, it's def' too dark now. By using a timing light, once connected, it will strobe once every time a spark travels thru the first ignition lead. Aiming the light at the timing marks and the marker on the block, you'll be able to tell how many degrees advance or retard you end up at. Check the Haynes manual. Pretty sure there's pics of it there.
(http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/7272/imgp3233largemm1.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
Word brother...
As always, your pics are spot on!!!
I have a set of the handled long allen keys... so will get that cranking this weekend.
Obviously it's best to do it with the best fuel possible in there?
I'll give this a crack. Thanks again for your help peeps!!
Cam.
Quote from: CraigS on 18 October 2007, 05:48 AM
I thought it was available if you were a member of an officially sanctioned club, but don't know who you would ask. I guess the fuel companies are not gong to be too helpful, but I guess it is worth a call to Shell.
I think there is the question of tax on avgas - it has less because it is not used on the road.
I would also be careful with advancing the ignition as these engines sound pretty nasty pretty quick when advanced and will run hot as well if too far advanced.
There is a beautifully crafted set of timing marks on the crankshaft pully with a small pointer visible on the front cover of the engine directly below the distributor on the left side of the motor. (On your right side looking from the front)
I would invest in a cheap timing light and only advance the ignition a couple of degrees at a time.
Bill
Phenomenally thorough thread on performance restoration in m-100 currently active.
Before thinking fuel or just one item, I'd review that thread.
Everything... from throttle linkage slop to trans oil viscosity to brake drag... can effect performance.
Here in the USA you can get a dyno test for about $100.
It's very likely that your engine is below spec for slight
adjustment reasons. The Dyno test will tell you that.
After extensive dyno testing we found that m100 engines are
very responsive to tweaking the mixture richer and a bit
more ignition advance until just shy of pre-ignition. That
sort of tweaking is easy with CIS, not sure how to do it
with D-jet.
Thanks lads - i got the CIS injection.
Will be tweaking the mixture and timing in the next couple days.
Will scope out that thread John. Much appreciated!! ;)
Throttle linkages i'm thinking could do with a polish...
http://www.m-100.cc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2888
Here's the horsepower link - fabulous discussion of all the variables for power and performance.
Just chucking in my 2 bobs worth. Timing lights are relatively cheap, you will probably only buy one in your whole life and if you are competing you can hook it up anytime and see what your timing is in an instant, even in between runs.
You can buy avgas above board with a special log book you get from the Australian Historic Motoring Federation or affiliated clubs. There is a list of participating garages that you get it from too. There is no guarantee this will continue but at present I think their licence goes until the end of 2008 when government will review the situation.
When my brother was rallying he got a big drum of octance booster (toluene?) and added that at every refill. He had incredibly high compression and this did the trick - I don't think avgas was high enough octane for him from memory.
I would invest in a dynotune by someone who knows what they are doing. Someone at your hillclimb will suggest a good local for you I would think. The best bit about this is what someone else here is saying about being able to fiddle with different combinations and see what the effect is on the rolling road and flat out, just like you are doing. The can load up the rollers too and replicate climbing too. I haven't seen your other posts but if you are starting competition, I would always go through and replace all your ignition bits (leads points cap, whatever is applicable) to start afresh and change brake fluid now and then a couple of times each season. Also the dyno will show up little faults like sticky advance mechanisms and worn distributors etc etc.
I know this will add up to a bit but if you get it right you don't need to keep chasing things andd each time you will have that bit more fun.
Hope something in that helps. I can get numbers if you want an AHMF contact.