Author Topic: How to remove torque converter from seized engine?  (Read 89 times)

raueda1

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How to remove torque converter from seized engine?
« on: 29 August 2019, 06:35 PM »
 For newcomers, per other threads, my engine is seized.  I'm now stuck with a paradox.   I eventually got the engine out and got the transmission off.   Of course, before separating the engine and tranny you're supposed to detach the torque converter from the engine before pulling them apart so it stays on the transmission.  To do this you unbolt it from the flywheel or flex plate or whatever by rotating the crank and unbolting from the access plate on the bottom of the bell housing. 

BUT:  doing this requires rotating the crank.  My engine is seized, so that's not an option.  Yet I need to get the engine onto a stand to diagnose why it's seized.  How to work around? 

I've got an old bell housing laying around, so it occurred to me that maybe I could bolt that back onto the engine and bolt it up to the engine stand on the transmission end.  if the engine weighed 200kg I wouldn't hesitate.  But it's about twice that and I'm nervous that the bell housing won't support the engine hanging on the stand like that.  The rear of the bell housing certainly wasn't designed to have 350kg hanging cantilevered on it.  But maybe it's strong enough? 

Another option might be to use steel extension pipes between the block and engine stand plate to bridge the torque converter, then fix it with long grade 8 bolts.  But this seems sketchy too.  Still, could conceivably work

Any ideas/solutions/work-arounds would be welcome.  Thanks for the ongoing help and support.  I gotta say, this site keeps me going (though it also seems to propel me into such issues in the first place!   ::) )  My girlfriend thinks I'm insane.  Thanks!
-Dave
Now:  '76 6.9 Euro
Before that:  1966 230S, 1964 220SE coupe, 1977 Carrera 3.0

daantjie

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Re: How to remove torque converter from seized engine?
« Reply #1 on: 30 August 2019, 08:50 PM »
Hey Dave, well I can commisirate at least on the girlfriend having a low tolerance for these shenanigans...

Cannot help much, other than I am pretty sure the weight of the 6.9 M100 is 750 lbs.

Good luck, keep the beers chilled for after, I always find it makes a tough job a little less painful if there is some cold beers at the end of the "rainbow" ;)
« Last Edit: 30 August 2019, 10:34 PM by daantjie »
Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9 - Astralsilber

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Re: How to remove torque converter from seized engine?
« Reply #2 on: 31 August 2019, 06:47 AM »
What I've done in the past with this type of situation is to suspend the engine with the engine crane, should probably have some sort of safety backup...  Then remove the sump, disconnect the conrods caps, push each piston up and then with some fiddling you can turn the crank.  Just be careful not to hurt any valves.  It's safer to take the rocker arms out so all the valves are closed, but depending how things are locked up you may not be able to get them all out.

'76 6.9 Euro, '78 6.9 AMG, '80 280SE, '74 350SE, '82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro , '81 500SL

raueda1

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Re: How to remove torque converter from seized engine?
« Reply #3 on: 31 August 2019, 09:31 AM »
Thanks for comments and support.  Fortunately I'm now in calm, zen-like place and will eventually get it done.  Here's what I decided on:

First, I got a 2000 lb engine stand. It's very beefy indeed. The one already in the garage seemed to flimsy for my liking*.  The problem is, the tubes welded to the adjustable arms aren't long enough to bridge all the way across the torque converter to the block.  My idea is to cut 4 sections of heavy steel pipe that fit over the shorter sections thereby bridging the torque converter.  The total bolt length is 24 cm.  This puts the engine about 10 cm farther out from the rotatable plate on the stand than would otherwise be the case.  This obviously places a greater load on everything.  But, in effect, how it this really different from just putting a bigger engine on the stand? It's still well within the stand's capacity.   IOW, if I were doing this with a 1500 lb diesel, that would still be within the stand capacity while subjecting it to more strain than we're talking about here.  As I write this it occurred to me that a further option might be to drill another hole in the mounting plate and add a 5th support arm.  The engine would then have 5 supporting bolts.

My only concern is ripping out the threads in the block or snapping a bolt.  But people routinely put engines on stands and this stuff doesn't seem to happen (or does it???).  I discussed all this with a woman at Fastenal.  Her husband apparently does this all the time. She commented that I was better with class 8.8 bolts than 10.9 despite higher strength of the latter.  Why?  She said the the 8.8 failure mode is typically bending, stretching or similar deformation whereas the 10.9 bolts just snap (though at a substantially greater load).  I may be overthinking all this.

Any further thoughts?  Cheers,
 
-----------------------
*As was the hoist.  When my friend offered up his garage I was thrilled to see the hoist and stand. Both turned out to be too small. They were probably used to work on little rice rockets.   It's clear that the only way to go with this equipment is BIG. 
-Dave
Now:  '76 6.9 Euro
Before that:  1966 230S, 1964 220SE coupe, 1977 Carrera 3.0