Hilfe

[paraguaiano]

guten abend, lass mich mich vorstellen: mein name ist pietro und ich schreibe dir aus süditalien, ich mag den mercedes w116 sehr, tatsächlich habe ich einen! mercedes 280 se von 79, den ich ein wenig reparieren muss, aus diesem grund frage ich dich, ob du mir helfen kannst, gegeben dass du in der Heimat von Mercedes bist
Ich schreibe nicht auf Deutsch, auch wenn ich es ziemlich diskret spreche, ich schreibe nicht einmal Englisch, auch wenn ich nicht sehr gut sprechen kann, aber ich schaffe es, dafür benutze ich den Google Übersetzer, der nicht der beste ist !! Es kann einige Übersetzungsfehler geben, leider ist es nicht meine Schuld! Ich bitte dich um Geduld!
dann sind die 2 Dinge, die ich euch alle im Forum fragen wollte.
Wissen Sie als erstes am Drehzahlmesser, wo das Kabel in die Motorseite eingeführt werden soll? Ich weiß, dass mit 2 Einfügungen eine auf dem linken Kotflügel, wo sich die Spule befindet, die andere ist? auf dem Händler? Ich weiß nicht, ich hoffe du kannst mir helfen.
Meine andere Hilfe, die ich Sie bitte, ist folgende: Ich sende Ihnen ein Foto. Ich habe unter dem Ansaugkrümmer, wo sich das Hilfsluftventil befindet, ein leeres Rohr. Ich finde nicht das Rohr, das ich einführen soll. Was soll dorthin gehen? jetzt verstopfte es mit einer Schraube, aber was muss es dort gehen? Leider bekommt der Motor zu viel Luft und wird immer beschleunigt. Ich weiß nicht, was ich tun soll. Hier kennen die Mechaniker die k-Tonika nicht und Arabisch für sie. Ich lebe auf einer Insel. Wenn Sie mir helfen können, wäre ich sehr dankbar. ein herzlicher grüße an alle von peter aus italien.
good evening, let me introduce myself: my name is pietro and i am writing to you from southern italy, i am very fond of the mercedes w116, in fact i have one! mercedes 280 se of 79, which i have a little to fix, for this reason i ask you if you can help me, given that you are in the home of mercedes
I don't write in German even if I speak it fairly discreetly, I don't even write English, even if I can't speak very well but I manage, for this I use the google translator, which is not the best !! there may be some translation errors, unfortunately it is not my fault! I ask you patience!
then the 2 things I wanted to ask you all in the forum are.
the first on the tachometer, do you know where the cable is to be inserted in the motor side? I know that with 2 insertions one on the left mudguard where there is the coil, is it the other? on the distributor? I don't know I hope you can help me.
my other help that I ask you is this, I send you a photo, I have under the intake manifold where there is the auxiliary air valve an empty tube, I do not find the tube that I should insert what should go there? now clogged it with a screw, but what must it go there? unfortunately the engine gets too much air and is always accelerated I don't know what to do, here the mechanics don't know the k jertonic, and arabic for them, I live on an island, if you can help me I would be very grateful. a warm greeting to all from peter from italy.

[Taha]

Hi and welcome,

The tacho wire goes to the C116 terminal behind the coil. Unfortunately I can't remember which side but if you have a multimeter check which side is connected to the pin 1 of the diagnostic plug. The other side of the C116 terminal is connected to the fuse number 1 and pin 6 of diagnostic plug. The other tacho wire goes to fuse number 4 if it helps.

Good luck.

[paraguaiano]

ok! thank you very precious your replied, I wanted to ask in the forum there is someone who has a 280 if? if you could take a picture of me under the collector similar to the one I posted, and send it, I want to see if that tube I circled in red must be empty, I need a tube! thank you very much

[paraguaiano]

no one has a 280 se to take a small photo of me to see if everything is ok? thanks

[paraguaiano]

come on guys a photo can really help me, we are closed in the house we can't go out we really have a lot of difficulty due to the covid 19 '!! if you send it to me do a great thing !!!! thank you all in the world.

[w116john]

hi

i have a 450 and on that, there is a vacuum line there which goes to the warm up regulator, i'm guessing its the same on your 280, they are in different locations on the 450.

if you google wur 280 vacuum you will find a diagram that will give you an idea, i just did and it shows a vacuum line connecting to the top of the warm up regulator, i cannot say if the diagram is the the same as yours. have a look at your wur and see if its connected.

beware there are different versions of the vacuum set up.

someone with a 280 will come along soon.


all the best stay safe

[paraguaiano]

OK! THANK YOU VERY MUCH YOU HAVE BEEN VERY KIND THANKS

[revilla]

Hi Pietro,

Welcome to the forum.

The difficulty to help you is that there are many different versions of the whole vacuum system/hoses/etc.  As John eluded, some WUR'S (warm up regulator, located on the left side of your engine just to the right of your steering box) have a FOT (full open throttle, or kick-down pipe) which connects through a plastic vacuum line to the intake.  Its job is to enrich the mixture when you push down full throttle. Others don't have this little pipe.  That explains why there are 2 types of the hose you circled in red in your picture.  One type hose with no nipple and other with nipple like yours.  I presume you have a WUR without the FOT little pipe, that's why the nipple in your hose has been plugged to avoid air leaking into the intake.  But if you can confirm you have the WUR with the side pipe, then follow that line and see where it connects.  There are other places where it can be connected as long as it 'feels' the huge vacuum the engine generates when at FOT/kickdown.  Needless to say, there's the other vacuum connection on the WUR which is next to the electrical blue connector. This line connects directly to the intake.  If it's absence or broken that would explain the high revs of your engine.  If leaking it makes the WUR misbehave as it can't regulate the CP (Control Pressure) key for performance cold/hot starts, idle, etc.  I recently had this problem and somebody from the forum helped me figure that out.

There's another piece called the fuel damper.  A small cylindrical metal piece which job is to absorb fluid 'impacts' on the system.  This piece also has a vacuum plastic line attached to it.  Again, there are several places where this line can be connected to.  It's not as critical because the job of this line (I think, somebody can correct me please) is to serve as a fuel leaking point in case the inside diaphragm breaks and leaks.  Please double check that too.  Finally, there are 2 other plastic lines that attached to your ignition distributor body to advance/retard the spark timing at different regimes/conditions of the the engine.  These 2 lines, also, connect to several different places and it varies car by car.

Please confirm the above and come back to us so we can help you.  Again, not easy to send a picture of our 280s setup to 'copy/paste' because there are several combinations depending on the system you have in your car.  Each case is different and it's always better to understand how it works first to find the good solution rather than copying other setups, which can lead into further complications

Hope it helps.

Cheers

R

[revilla]

.

[paraguaiano]

ok! thank you very much for your explanation if it was very clear and precise thank you very much now I will do a shema as all the vacuum tubes are placed on my ignition system and then the post, ok? thanks a lot, bye

[paraguaiano]

HELLO THEN I FOUND THIS SCHEME ON THE INTERNET, MY SYSTEM IS THE ONE CIRCLED IN RED, IT IS NOT ABSOLUTELY THE ONE IN GREEN, THEN I NOTED, (IT IS SIGNED WITH A BLUE CIRCLE,) THAT THE TUBE I OBTAINED HAS NOT LINE! BUT IS IT POSSIBLE THAT IT MUST BE WITHOUT PURPOSE? MUST TAKE AIR? THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENCE AND KINDNESS HELLO. P.S IF YOU CAN SERVE MY MERCEDES AND ALMOST ONE OF THE LAST BEFORE THE W126, AND OF THE YEAR 79. THANKS A HUG TO ALL

[revilla]

Ciao Pietro,

Clear.  Good job finding that picture. 

If your system is the one in red, my guess is that a previous owner has replaced hose 40 with hose 42 of the green system.  That happened to me once when I ordered that hose.  The 2 are almost identical except for the extra nipple in 42.  To answer your question, the nipple has no use for your red system, that's the reason is plugged.  This is of course assuming you have the red system which is what we see in the picture of your first post.  The only thing I would do is to find a better way to plug it to avoid air getting into the system and getting things out of balance.  That screw might be letting air in.

Hope it helps.

Cheers

R

ps: your picture made think of a hose I wanted to buy but never had the time.  Now thanks to the fact that we're confined at home I want to buy it but I don't know the PN.  But rather than hijacking this post, I will 'borrow' your picture in a separate thread.   I hope the EPC (or whatever it's called now) experts can help me with this one.

[paraguaiano]

thanks, but if you look carefully also the 40 has a small nipple marked in blue, but it has no connection, however I will follow your advice I will try to plug it better and then let's see! I'm glad that the scheme I put in can serve. sorry but later on I will also ask you for other advice, such as for example I have a problem with the lights of the instrument panel, the one in the air conditioning control panel does not come on, I thought it was the rheostat thanks ps comuque if someone has a mercedes 280 if end of series and send me a photo i am very happy and thank you we stay home !!

[revilla]

Buongiorno Pietro,

I understand. In the first picture you sent with the red circle there's no second nipple like the one highlighted in blue in the schematic. This is the same setup of 1 of my cars. So nothing to be connected there, nothing to be concerned about.

How about the other lines described in my first post? Are all connected somewhere? If not, we need to find where they connect to because that would explain your high revs. I'm assuming of course you have adjusted the white nylon screw to reduce the rpms, correct?

Once you check all those lines and you're sure nothing is leaking air in that list, we can move to the next usual suspect in order of probability of occurrence.  For instance, in some setups, especially late production models, the little damper  is located on top of the intake, towards the rear of the engine, right on the area of injectors 5 & 6. They located there by drilling holes on the intake itself. Remove and check both screw are not leaking air in. If they do, happened to me once, the revs go high fast and quick.  Same exact happens with the cruise control assembly located at 10 o'clock of the fuel damper. Check those 2 screws too if your car is equipped with cruise control.
Then you can move to all the vacuum plastic lines that go inside the car for several purposes. To rule them out, i'd Momentarily plug the main vacuum source of that which is located right next to the breaks booster. Same if your car is equipped, it should be as it's a late model, with headlamps beams adjustment; you can plug for now that source too.
Last but definitely not least, is the famous AVV (auxiliary air valve). The one circled in red in your first photo. It can be stuck open which of course will cause high revs. You can remove it but most of your coolant liquid will come out which needs to be replaced. Needless to say, do it only when the car is cold. Then, as suggested in many other different sites/posts you can place it in boiling water and check if it works. Open at boiling water temp = high revs.  The good news if that's the case is that they can be repaired. But even if opened there's ZERO influence in your rich/lean mixture condition as this is simply a bypass of your idle screw assembly acting essentially as if you were pressing your accelerator (opening the throttle butterfly) and not altering in any sense the mixture balance (a typical misconception).
Then of course there are the injectors guides and seals which can leak air too. In my experience they can raise the revs slightly but NEVER at the level of a disconnected hose without 'home'.  They are very easy to change and still not expensive I think. 

Buona giornata, ciao

[tcj]

additional nipples with no connection:

in 1977 and 1978 changed the tubing for vacuum, this is described in the workshop manual.
From that point 2 moulded hoses got additional nipples. The former version of the moulded hoses is not sold anymore.
If you dont want the change the tubing you can plug the additional nipples. But a screw is no good solution, it will not be airtight to the ground of the thread.