help!! Loud engine knocking noise... :(

[torana68]

you could drill the head off it but it would make removal that much more difficult, get something flat  on the end (piece of bar) and wack it with a hammer, this peens the corners of the recess back, then, using a good socket type key (ie not a loose one, one with a socket end) fit that in and tap the end of that to free the threads (hopefllly) then try and undo it. Not a little tap not a Federer whack...
Roger

[pez]

Ryan,
You need to acquire a very high quality bolt/screw extraction set....don't skimp here...you only have 1 chance. Get a Snap-On or similar quality tool and be very precise and careful.  You will be drilling into the center of the bolt with a left hand thread drill bit, which will catch and then back out the bolt.

[Niclas]

It helps a bit if you tighten all the other bolts again, especially the ones close to the problematic one. This will decrease the force and thereby the friction of the problematic bolt.

And yes, one bolt on each cam tower goes through the head and into the block.

Good luck/
Niclas

[pez]

This is a great recommendation Niclas. This may significantly reduce the effective torque on the stripped bolt.

[Big_Richard]

Is it just me, or can one usually count on there to be atleast ONE bolt that refuses to come out which always turns a simple job into a nightmare.

"theres allways gotta be one" . . .  Snap.... "F$%^ @#$$&^"

[TJ 450]

That pretty well sums it up, PB. That's usually what happens to me.

Tim

[WGB]

I must have a gentle touch - been a rare happening for me but I do have a reasonable set of "easy-outs" if I need them.

I think this problem needs a bit of thought and planning and my weekends are rather tied up the next few weeks.

I am coming up to Kingsley on the weekend for a Lodge meeting on Sunday Afternoon and will be in the vicinity but as I will be wearing a dinner suit I'm not planning on "spannering".

Happy to drop off the valve lifter if needed so long as you realise that death is an easier option than not returning it. 

Bill

[Ryan1980]

hey bill,

don't think i'll be needing the valve lifter for a while, hopefully i can get the head off and then order the replacement valve from autohausaz.

[13B]

How to fix bent valves:

Link

I.

[Ryan1980]

Progress.
With Tim's help i've managed to get the head off.
As you can see in the pictures, at least one valve is bent. Im not sure i want to follow the technique on the youtube video Ian's showed us, i'd rather do it properley and replace the valve!

Do you guys think theres much damage to the pistons? You can see where the valves have been hitting the pistons.

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/Ryan1980_photos/IMG_1462.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/Ryan1980_photos/IMG_1464.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/Ryan1980_photos/IMG_1463.jpg

Ryan

[CraigS]

No wonder it was making a noise ! At least there are no holes in the pistons, so if the indentation is not too deep, I would just clean them up - remove the carbon - and fix the valves.

[Ryan1980]

cool. I shall do that.

Before i order the parts i need from autohausaz , just a couple of questions.

Which head gasket do i need (left or right side?)

Which injector seals do i need to order?

Im not sure if i've forgotten anything but here's what i've got in my shopping cart so far:

Exhaust Gaskets
Exhaust Valves (2)
Timing Chain
1 Valve Stem Seal Set

Anythin else ?

Ryan

[TJ 450]

Which head gasket do i need (left or right side?)
Left hand side.

Which injector seals do i need to order?
A full set.

Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (4).
Exhaust Valves (2), should be intake valves (2).
Timing Chain.
1 Valve Stem Seal Set.
Intake manifold gaskets (2).

This should be all that's required for now, other than cylinder head bolts.

The slightly damaged pistons will be fine as far as I can see.

Tim

[Ryan1980]

Thanks Tim

Can you do me a favour, have a look at this link and tell me which intake manifold gasket i need:

https://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=1cry4e55s0scm055ncijjqvj&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1194757@450SE&year=1974&cid=20@Engine%20Parts,%20Seals%20&gid=5424@Intake%20Manifold%20Gasket

Also, which fuel injector seal?

https://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=1cry4e55s0scm055ncijjqvj&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1194757@450SE&year=1974&cid=22@Fuel%20%26%20Air%20System&gid=6232@Fuel%20Injector%20Seal

Also, is it necessary to replace the head bolts, since there doesnt appear to be anything wrong with mine? Apart from that 6mm one that i had trouble getting off (which i cant seem to find a replacement for on the autohausaz website).

The only other thing i need is the part which the distributor bolt goes into. Can't seem to see that on the website either, perhaps i will have to get one off a wreck.

[TJ 450]

No worries, Ryan.

For the intake manifold gaskets, you need two of 1161411880, the $5.66 part.

For the injector seals, you need eight of 1160780073  and 1160780773  respectively.

That 8mm socket head screw/bolt can be sourced locally, I also have some here depending on length. With the head bolts, you are supposed to renew them, but you could re-use the old ones. They lose their tensile strength and stretch after use.

Regarding the distributor bolt, on K-Jet engines, the bolt screws directly into the housing. I don't think I saw the part on your car, but I would assume the housing needs to be renewed. I would imagine there should be a few wrecks around, at pace motors and the like, if need be.
Still, it may be possible to repair your existing one, depending on the arrangement.

Tim