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GREEN-450SE Report & Photos

Started by Zagato, 23 November 2008, 12:01 AM

Zagato

So today I got my car inspected free-of-charge by a backyard-type mechanic. He's helped me determine most of the problems with my car.

First of all, the reason the front-right end of the car squeaks/clacks metal-on-metal sounds is because one of the engine mounts are rubbish. Apparently going over bumps and hard breaking shifts the whole engine around, making those awful noises. This is also apparent when you take a look under the car.

With the car on a ramp, I was able to take a good look at the exhaust. It seems the shifty engine has made an effect of things:
http://img227.imageshack.us/my.php?image=19196468gw4.png
http://img56.imageshack.us/my.php?image=22720341pg8.png
The rubber hangers have been beat up badly. The first one is stretched to its limit, and the other snapped (Holding it in second picture).

He also thinks that the passenger-side front suspension (spring & shock) and wheel bearing are in need of replacement. Which may be contributing to the poor tracking to the right. Not to mention the ride height is a bit out of balance.
http://img370.imageshack.us/my.php?image=84553386pr9.png
http://img179.imageshack.us/my.php?image=13077827rz7.png
Also note the shiny new tie rods. (Those shocks are seriously old. They've got the brand name and colours of the 1980's splattered all over it!)

Also, I think the rubber bushings for my front sway bar linkages are in need of replacement:
http://img224.imageshack.us/my.php?image=18937682bm5.png
http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=96456896qc6.png

And finally, I think my oil filter is in need of replacement. Just look at the state/age of it!:
http://img372.imageshack.us/my.php?image=94375275kz9.png

There are a lot of things to do to make my dream car, dream car condition. But I guess this is what it means to be a car enthusiast!

TJ 450

That's not too bad. Most of those parts are straight-forward to replace.

Regarding the oil filter, it is a cartridge type, IE the filter is inside that "bowl". There's plenty of info in the library on that, under "maintenance, engine oil change".

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Zagato

Quote from: TJ 450 on 23 November 2008, 12:35 AM
Regarding the oil filter, it is a cartridge type, IE the filter is inside that "bowl". There's plenty of info in the library on that, under "maintenance, engine oil change".

Tim

Aaah okay. That's pretty clever. They've thought of everything, eh?

oscar

Quote from: Zagato on 23 November 2008, 12:01 AM

Also, I think the rubber bushings for my front sway bar linkages are in need of replacement:
http://img224.imageshack.us/my.php?image=18937682bm5.png
http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=96456896qc6.png



Upper control arms would be my guess as to what you need especially to fix the tracking to the right business.  There's other bushes of course but that's the main culprit IMO.  Following a wheel alignment afterwards things should improve.  Jack the front up so the wheels are suspended and look deep into the wheel wells to see the inner upper control arm bush.  My guess is that yours are probably shot like the one below.


1973 350SE, my first & fave

Zagato

Had the car professionally inspected and it turns out there's nothing wrong with the engine mount. Turns out the problem is that the LOWER control arm bushes are in terrible shape. They are the ones contributing to the excessive play in the steering and metal-to-metal noises.
However, I spoke to two shops and they say that no one makes the lower control arm bushes for my car anymore. I can't go to a salvage yard because the W116 is super rare here. Help?

Plus, since the lower control arm play is so bad, the driver's side front tire is wearing really badly on the inner side. So badly, there are inner tire cords showing! The mechanic warns me it could blow out during any drive. So I need new front tires.

Also, it turns out the reason my exhaust is so noisy is because the middle muffler has shattered bafflers. When the car is running, the baffler pieces stuck inside rattle intensely, making the car sound half-diesel. I looked online and found that a replacement costs nearly $300!
So is it possible just to replace the middle muffler with straight pipes and just have only the rear muffler? Or will that make the car too loud?


Cash is running short lately so I can only afford to do one repair until January. I've got to choose between:
-Lower control arm bushings (Must be done at MB dealer, no independent specialist in my area)
-Front tires
-Transmission fluid, filter, and seals change
-Middle muffler replacement

TJ 450

I would be replacing the lower control arm bushes first, before the tires, unless they are completely worn out. Otherwise you will end up with uneven wear on the new tires. It makes sense, because you have just replaced the track rods.

Just ensure your transmission fluid is topped up in the meantime.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

oscar

No lower control arm bushings ???  I've just searched online and couldn't find any and I'll need some next year.  Surely they can't be out of stock.  :(  Anyone know any different?   The Classic Center in Irvine California will confirm if they're available.

I agree, I'd be tending to the control arms first and if your rear tyres are fine, swap the rears to front if you need to use the car for a bit longer than expected before the repair takes place. 

Removal of the centre box will make your car more noticeable by giving it a growl.   You could always put two short pipes in there to replace that box then put a centre box in at a later date if you get sick of the sound.

Here's what I'd imagine it to sound more like. I think I'd get used to it myself. ;D

http://www.youtube.com/v/Qh8G_jIMZtg&hl=en&fs=1
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Zagato

Got the exhaust done first since there's no way I can afford the lower control arms repair at the MB dealer. I plan to just swap over the spare tire for the worn one for now.
The exhaust is certainly more 'meaty' but it causes ridiculous vibrations underneath. I can still hear some rattle, so I guess it just needs that missing rubber hanger.

BAR

Go the safety first route... after all it's your life and those of your passengers at risk.

Any suspension issues should be rectified if you plan to drive the car on the road.  Should it be pulling in one direction or another, then this will be exaggerated under braking and or cornering: needless to say you don't want to slide into another car!  The results will be more expensive than fixing the problem.

As for exhaust noises persiting even after you've had repalcements carried out, check the following:
1. Examine the join between the manifold [headers for North Americans] and exhaust pipe.  The nults can get loose and allow the system to vibrate and leak.
2. Examine the exhaust pipe clamps [the ones that keep the two pipes in parallel].  If they are loose, the exhaust pipe will rattle inside the figure 8 that these make up.

Zagato

Quote from: BAR on 01 December 2008, 08:39 PM
1. Examine the join between the manifold [headers for North Americans] and exhaust pipe.  The nults can get loose and allow the system to vibrate and leak.

Good idea. This morning, when I started the car, it produced a lot of smoke from the tail pipe (which I assume is normal since it's always doing that upon start up, but goes away once warmed up). I looked under the car and saw smoke pouring out what looks like the join between the headers and exhaust pipe. I'll take it to a shop and have them tighten up those nuts.

Wish I could do all these work under the car myself, but can't on my land lord's drive way.

Zagato

Quote from: oscar on 29 November 2008, 12:04 AM
No lower control arm bushings ???  I've just searched online and couldn't find any and I'll need some next year.  Surely they can't be out of stock.  :(  Anyone know any different?

Just been to the dealer today. Turns out there actually are lower control arm bushings available. But they're expensive and come straight from Germany. So I've been quoted the replacement of those bushings to cost $600 - $700. More than half the price I paid for the car.
I'll have to wait till January to get the funds to pay for it.

WGB

I haven't really been following the thread but here is the link to Autohausaz.com which appears to show they have the control arm bushings for sale and available.

Control arm bushings

Bill

Zagato

Quote from: WGB on 06 December 2008, 10:22 PM
I haven't really been following the thread but here is the link to Autohausaz.com which appears to show they have the control arm bushings for sale and available.

Control arm bushings

Bill

Wow, $59.26? That certainly a lot less than the $400 I've been quoted for those parts. I feel like I'm going to get ripped off. It's a good thing I didn't make the appointment yet. I could save a shed load of money if I supply the parts. That is, if the MB Dealer will let me.

oscar

Quote from: WGB on 06 December 2008, 10:22 PM
I haven't really been following the thread but here is the link to Autohausaz.com which appears to show they have the control arm bushings for sale and available.

Control arm bushings

Bill

Fair dinkum, how did I miss that.  :P  I searched for ages Bill and couldn't find them knowing they used to be there.  Excellent, thanks 8)

Get the parts and find that independant MB mechanic Zagato. ;)
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Zagato

Quote from: oscar on 07 December 2008, 02:04 AM
Get the parts and find that independant MB mechanic Zagato. ;)

Good news! I finally find one!
It's a small European car garage that was established in 1969. Interestingly, they also specialize in BMW and Maserati's. They also used to be a Maserati and TVR dealership!

Not only do they specialize in classic Mercedes, they also have a modest sized parts desk with items that include obscure makes like Triumph. Hopefully I can pick up 2 horizontal radiator grill trim, driver's foot well soundproofing, hood release lever, and a door mirror  there.

I've been quoted these jobs:
"check timing chain =$100
to replace t/ch app=$800 inc. upper chain guides.
o/haul transmission=2,500-3,000
lower control arm assy app=$300"