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Fuel accumulator non return hack

Started by George, 13 July 2011, 04:19 AM

George

Will do that next. Need to get a pressure gadget first.

George

#16
Really struggled this morning getting it started.

Eventually I unhooded the air filter cabinet and just pushed the air plate down and then left it to return.

Then after that I'd try starting and there would be an enourmous response from the engine, I repeated this and this broke the cold spell and the engine started. So what came to mind is an air issue.


I then did an investigation into the choke/idle controll circuit and found that the high start idle setting is not working or not kicking in.

I did the test of unhooking the tube to the decel circulating air valve and replugged it, According to the manual this should provide the high idle effect for a few seconds but it did nothing.

The bugger is a bit hard to reach under the car but I got to it and just unhooked one of it's hozes. Oil came running out!!

What could have gone wrong here? I can only assume this came from the air filter cabinet because it's oily. Maybe someone thaught it would make it better if it's oiled.


I allso tested the Aircon cutover circuit by removing it's tubes from it's cutover switch and connecting them to each other, there's no idle increase for that either. What's worse is the tube that's used to controll the aircon bypass valve has a vacuum on it??!! Could be busted and now the car is sucking air through the control?





I tested the cutout valve and found that someone put little ball bearings in it's valve switch tubes. Removed em, tested the cutout and everything is fine if I connect them together the car dies so it's working. Dont know if the bearings blocking the tubes on the valve switch was a fix for some other problem but I guess I'll find out.

koan

Quote from: George on 16 July 2011, 07:40 AM
Really struggled this morning getting it started.

Eventually I unhooded the air filter cabinet and just pushed the air plate down and then left it to return.

Then after that I'd try starting and there would be an enourmous response from the engine, I repeated this and this broke the cold spell and the engine started. So what came to mind is an air issue.

When you pushed the plate down you may have heard the injectors spraying, that would give you some extra fuel and an engine start.

Sounds like whatever controls cold start enrichment is not working. If it was standard K-Jet I'd say warmup reg but I think you said earlier it was KE-Jet.

Quote

I then did an investigation into the choke/idle controll circuit and found that the high start idle setting is not working or not kicking in.

I did the test of unhooking the tube to the decel circulating air valve and replugged it, According to the manual this should provide the high idle effect for a few seconds but it did nothing.

The bugger is a bit hard to reach under the car but I got to it and just unhooked one of it's hozes. Oil came running out!!


If the decel circulating air valve is same as the coasting boost valve on my engine that won't be the problem. Mine wasn't working for awhile, I gave it a bit of a flush out and it now works. All it does is boost revs for a 2 or 3 secs AFTER the engine has started and effectively opens the throttle a fraction when coasting, reducing emissions.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

George

#18
The plate was pushed down with the car not started and couldn't remember hearing anything.

The car started first go this morning without doing anything. I think it might be the pool of oil that might have caused an air seal in the rubber tubing.
I did clean the valves and tubing yesterday before putting them back, even though the valves seem to be busted the car started easy this morning, where it was impossible yesterday. Holding my thumbs it wasn't just a one time thing.


It makes sense to me, as this is the only place air get's to a cold engine apart from the normal idling tube. I can't operate the fuel pedal when starting so everything is up to these valves to give air when the plate is in it's normal closed position.

There's still no idle difference. The car works up from a 500 rpm to 900 rpm as it get's to normal temperature. Switching the aircon on and off has no effect.

I'm going to try and get a complete set from the secondhand place as I can't seem to find a part number or online references to either these two valves. I think I'll also get the aux air valve while I'm at it.

The cold start enrichment is definitely working, my car usaully get's 3-5 seconds of effective cranking because of it but then when it runs out there's nothing to carry the flag further and the car is expected to run on normal warm idling. This would allso explain why I need to try in one minute or so intervals, so that the heat from the start can dissipate causing the cold start to activate again, improving my chances.

George

Replacing the valves fixed the problem.

On a really cold/bad start you can hear a faint popping sound like when pushing in an empty soda can from the valve. it makes a ping ping sound.

koan

#20
Quote from: George on 22 July 2011, 03:54 PM
Replacing the valves fixed the problem.

Which valves did you replace?

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

George

#21
The Auxilary valve, I think this valve was still OK.
The Aircon valve, this one was pulling a vacuum through it's control port, clearly busted.
The aux circulating valve.


I think the startup pressure comp will need a service too but at least the nightmare's over and she starts. That circulating valve are litterally keeping the motor from dying by giving it little shutters of air.

koan

Quote from: George on 23 July 2011, 12:59 PM
The Auxilary valve, I think this valve was still OK.
The Aircon valve, this one was pulling a vacuum through it's control port, clearly busted.
The aux circulating valve.

Did you replace them one at a time and try the engine?

So you would know exactly which valve was the problem.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

George

#23
No, I had enough physical contortion exercise as it is.

I took everything out to avoid revisitation, I allso washed and inspected the tubing and it was not like I was going to wait 5 hours to try each component. All that I could determine is that it was an O2 starvation at startup.

With all those small cristmas gift socket gift sets my father in law got through the years I managed to assemble weird things that could reach weird places.


The car still has a 5 minute warmup time before I can drive it, so the warmup pressure compensation might need some attention next.

What I figured out with this exercise is that alot of desighn goes into making things unnoticed' or smooth. This can be contrary when you compare testing components vs driving the car. So the compensator would just make the car start and go.