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Front suspension lower arm rebuild.

Started by WGB, 01 March 2009, 01:21 AM

WGB

I have pulled the lower arms and steering spindles out of my 6.9 and am in the progress of rebushing and putting in new "supporting joints" in the steering knuckles.

Here is the gear required for each side



The first question that was answered was the orientation of the one piece yoke bushes. I had asked on three forums and no-one including the manual knew the answer - the manual only deals with the earlier two piece bush.

Here is what I found on my car



The bushes are oriented the opposite to what I would have expected - I had envisaged the cutouts being at 90 degrees to what was found.

To answer a question raised by Koan - the left hand side has a heat shield but the right hand side appears never to have had one ( no marks and never had a trapped nut). The exhaust sits lower relative to the position of the bush on the right side so is probably not really required.

Of somewhat more concern is the absolute crappy state of the front and rear lower arm inner bushes and in this photo you may be able to make out how far off centre the bush actually is - it is more obvious in the flesh.



Compounding it is that the rear arm bushes appear to be 90 degrees out from what the manual says so that rear of the arm is free to move verically very easily.

Here is a picture of the three bushes showing their cutouts in their "installed" position



I will also be replacing both "supporting joints" in their respective steering knuckles and according to the manual they are driven out with hammer and mandrel. There is limited space for pressing in the new ones so will see what eventuates. The left is leaking a little grease but seems tight while the right is loosish.



Bill




Big_Richard

eagerly awaiting your findings in regards to replacing those supporting joints (balljoints ?)

How hard was it to drop the subframe ?


WGB

Up to now it has been a walk in the park.

I have just been to to the Surgery for the K-Y jelly so when it cools down a bit i'll get a bit more intense. ;D

Bill

Big_Richard

Quote from: WGB on 01 March 2009, 02:47 AM
Up to now it has been a walk in the park.

I have just been to to the Surgery for the K-Y jelly so when it cools down a bit i'll get a bit more intense. ;D

Bill

What do you use that for ?? on the car i mean  ::)

koan

Quote from: WGB on 01 March 2009, 01:21 AM
The first question that was answered was the orientation of the one piece yoke bushes.

Here is what I found on my car

That's how my bushes were oriented, It didn't occur to me that they should have been any other way. I was thinking load bearing not side thrust as you suggested which caused some doubt.

Thanks for the heat shield mention, I thought I was missing one but it's OK.

Quote
Here is a picture of the three bushes showing their cutouts in their "installed" position

Don't think that link made it.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

TJ 450

Very nice work, Bill.

This is the next job on my list for both my 450 and the 6.9. I'm watching in anticipation.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

s class

I did this a few years back on my 280SE - dealing with the springs without a proper spring compressor was horrible. 

You will enjoy going for wheel alignment after this - on the 280SE, all the adjustments were at their limits before the rebuild, and afterwards, all were near the centre of their adjustment range.  It was very satisfying. 


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

WGB

PB - K-Y jelly is to help the new bushes slip in (rubber friendly and free of cost to me)

Koan - I have fixed the missing picture.

The rear split bushes wiggle out easily enough with a screwdriver but the front bushes have flanges on both ends that effectively end up pressed on. From a 126 site I was a member of some time ago I saw the idea of stripping off some of the outer ring of rubber and then slipping a hacksaw blade between the flange and the inner rubber ring and cutting through the central tubeas shown here.



If the bush is reasonably sound (as was my left one) this needs to be done at both ends and then the bush is driven out - I have used a 4WD tie rod end puller that I own but threaded shaft, nut and sockets would do the same job.



I finally have an explanation on why my car handled beautifully around right hand corners and like a hunk of crap around left hand corners. The left hand bushes have been replaced at some stage and the front bush had some life left in it even though the rear bush had been put in incorrectly with the split in the metal jacket placed vertically instead of horizontally.

The right hand arm was presumably totally original and apart from a little sloppiness in the large ball joint here is what is left of the rubber joints.



Scarey isn't it? I wonder how many 116's are running around with joints like this?

Didn't get much else done as Ryan1980 turned up with his head - another post.

Bill


TJ 450

I'm sure there are a lot of W116s being driven around with bushes in even worse condition. My 450 falls in that category, with the 6.9 following closely. Not for long though. ;)
I'm sure the difference will be profound, but it will be very interesting to hear of the verdict after the test drive.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

WGB

Public holiday over here in the West today so carried on with the re-bushing
Here are some photos for anyone interested.

I found it easier to push in the yoke bushes with my small 6 ton press



Plenty of K-Y jelly and a 32 mm socket to spread the load. Here is a close up.



I had picked the rear split lower arm bushes as being the easiest to do but had trouble keeping the two halves together and getting a clean push. Found an old XD Falcon inner wheel bearing cup (as supplied when you buy an older Falcon front Disc) which was exactly the correct width and directed the push onto the turned metal edges evenly.



The front bush was the easiest to push in - again using the 32 mm socket which lines up nicely with the metal re-inforcing in the bush.



The new Western Australian craze of "shiny bottoms" seems to be catching on but media blasting and powder coating is a bit too "new age" for me . I degreased and sprayed the bits with old fashioned paint after masking up the new bushes.



I made a few half hearted attempts to hammer out the lower guide joints in the steering spindles but nothing budged so decided to ring up some experts tomorrow and get a quote on removal and replacement.

I did check that the new joints I have are the same size as the old ones.

Bill

Big_Richard

with those ball joints from autohouse, did you get the "special tools required" version or the any joe blow can fit version ?

ive got no special tools required version, should be here tomorow, was hoping you could show me how its done  ;)

WGB

I think I bought the "Tools required" version.

Autohaus give part number 116 333 09 27 but I guess they say that to everybody.

My left one seems as good as new but my right one is a little sloppy.

Bill

Big_Richard

sounds like im going to have a fun time trying to work it out ;)

I have intentions of butchering the original ball joints out if required, i can always press in the new ones, thats the easy part.... I think... I havent even looked at it yet. Is the surface under the balljoint flat so one can use a press ?

WGB

I think they could be pressed in with a U shaped tube.

Yes bottom below joint is flat and yes you do have to butcher them to get them out - it says so in the manual.

I hit the most worn one as hard as I was prepared to with a ball peen hammer and nothing even remotely budged.

Bill


WGB

Rang up "The Star Shop" and spoke to Adrian - who I don't know - as Herbert was out.

Yes they have the press tool for the guide joint so will be driving up to see them tomorrow.

Bill