Front Caliper needed - Correct part confusion?

[carzilike]

Here is a photo of the caliper on the car currently.
Can anyone help me with the pinpointing the correct one?
Being in Canada means I pay nearly double the price with forex, import duties, shipping etc.

Also, why is it necessary to change them in pairs?

The shop said the one I ordered doesn't fit and is too small - NUGEON 9702706B
Even though Rockauto showed its a fit given my year and chassis number.

I can return it but shipping is on me and I'm sure will cost more to ship back then the part is worth so that was a waste of $100+

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9744724&cc=0&pt=1704&jsn=4546
The part I ordered ^

[carzilike]

I'd avoid both brands on that site, like the plague.

ATE (Teves) or Bendix (both are OEMs for Mercedes) or OE Mercedes parts are the only brake calipers you should use on your Mercedes - they have the correct safety approvals and quality control. Replace or rebuild in pairs. Seals kits are available, as are all other components needed. Replace the hoses at the same time (made by ATE), clean out the lines and reservoir with isopropanol and flush/bleed thoroughly with fresh ATE SL/SL6 brake fluid.

Safety systems are not a place to cut corners. Rebuild kits are also cheaper than those callipers.

NUGEON and CARDONE both reman BENDIX calipers and resell on Rockauto. The part I ordered is stamped BENDIX

[carzilike]

I am wondering if I should order this part? FCP website says it will fit and it is the same caliper as the W126 cars according to the fitment page. I assume this will be larger given that its shared with the 126 chassis?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-disc-brake-caliper-centric-14135029#fitment
Mercedes Disc Brake Caliper - Centric 14135029

[carzilike]

When I look up the Centric caliper on Amazon, it says it does not fit my 1977 280SE but FCP Euro says it does... This is frustrating

[rumb]

Can you please post a photo of your dataplate so we can confirm what year your car is. I suspect that is half your problem finding parts.

[revilla]

Can you please post a photo of your dataplate so we can confirm what year your car is. I suspect that is half your problem finding parts.

This is usually the most reasonable path to solve this parts incompatibility mystery. 
But there are always exceptions.
I bet the dataplate will add to the confusion rather than clarifying it.
Perhaps it's a dataplate that doesn't belong to the car, explaining why it was stated it's a 1977 but it doesn't have a Kjetronic CIS. It's a 1972-1976 with Djetronic in reality.
Rather I suggest taking a picture of the VIN stamped at the top-front of your firewall in the engine compartment, and the engine code stamped on the block (visible right under/behind the spark distributor).
Those numbers are more difficult to play with as opposed to the dataplate held by 2 simple screws.

[carzilike]

Can you please post a photo of your dataplate so we can confirm what year your car is. I suspect that is half your problem finding parts.

This is usually the most reasonable path to solve this parts incompatibility mystery. 
But there are always exceptions.
I bet the dataplate will add to the confusion rather than clarifying it.
Perhaps it's a dataplate that doesn't belong to the car, explaining why it was stated it's a 1977 but it doesn't have a Kjetronic CIS. It's a 1972-1976 with Djetronic in reality.
Rather I suggest taking a picture of the VIN stamped at the top-front of your firewall in the engine compartment, and the engine code stamped on the block (visible right under/behind the spark distributor).
Those numbers are more difficult to play with as opposed to the dataplate held by 2 simple screws.

car is sitting at the shop on a hoist. ill have to go there and get these pics I guess before I order more parts but I do recall checking if the VIN stamped on firewall matched the one on the dash and it did

[andrewk]

Here is a photo of the caliper on the car currently.
Can anyone help me with the pinpointing the correct one?
Being in Canada means I pay nearly double the price with forex, import duties, shipping etc.

Also, why is it necessary to change them in pairs?

Change in pairs as you want identical braking pressure between left and right sides otherwise you will get skid steering.

The bolts in your callipers are also incorrect. If they have been rebuilt, they did not use the right bits. Those bolts are still available from Mercedes Classic Center for almost every type of calliper.

Just don't lose the pad retaining pins from the calipers. Don't ask how I know this 😂

[carzilike]

thank you for the insight. I am looking forward to finally getting the CORRECT calipers on there so I can pick up the vehicle. the season for driving has passed and this car has been a headache from day one 

[carzilike]

Sorry this took so long to get but here it is... hopefully this helps clarify

[carzilike]

Here is a photo of the caliper on the car currently.
Can anyone help me with the pinpointing the correct one?
Being in Canada means I pay nearly double the price with forex, import duties, shipping etc.

Also, why is it necessary to change them in pairs?

Change in pairs as you want identical braking pressure between left and right sides otherwise you will get skid steering.

The bolts in your callipers are also incorrect. If they have been rebuilt, they did not use the right bits. Those bolts are still available from Mercedes Classic Center for almost every type of calliper.

Just don't lose the pad retaining pins from the calipers. Don't ask how I know this 😂

thanks for the heads up. do you have the part number for the correct bolts? anything else I should change to OEM while this is being done?

[rumb]

1976, First digit of long number on top line is a 6.

[revilla]

Hi,
Assuming that's the original dataplate for your car (?) it was ordered in 1976.
6131216
6=1976
***clarification: 1976 is the year when the car was ordered and not the year when it left the factory, a common misinterpretation.
If it was ordered in '76 there are only 2 choices, either it's a '76MY or a '77MY. In that case you "should" have ATE calipers.
As suggested previously, better to look at the firewall numbers.
Your car has a Djetronic fuel system. This type was originally installed in W116s <76MY (they switched to Kjet in june if I remember correctly).
So there's an inconsistency with that dataplate (held by two little screws only). Probability is VERY low a PO switched from K to Djet. Doubtful!

It's too risky (as you've experienced with the fuel pump) to order parts based on that dataplate. There are clear inconsistencies.
But there's a much simpler solution: your shop can spray some break cleaner on the calipers, wire brush them and read the ATE (or Bendix) stamping. When the calipers are dirty they are hard to see, true.
The rebuilt calipers you're considering are just fine, they are rebuilt by certified suppliers under sponsorship of ATE or Bendix. No worries there, risk=zero.
BTW, the calipers' mounting hardware in your car is identical for ATE or Bendix, so basically they are interchangeable, but careful, not so the components (e.g. pins pressure cross).
Good luck.

[carzilike]

Hi,
Assuming that's the original dataplate for your car (?) it was ordered in 1976.
6131216
6=1976
***clarification: 1976 is the year when the car was ordered and not the year when it left the factory, a common misinterpretation.
If it was ordered in '76 there are only 2 choices, either it's a '76MY or a '77MY. In that case you "should" have ATE calipers.
As suggested previously, better to look at the firewall numbers.
Your car has a Djetronic fuel system. This type was originally installed in W116s <76MY (they switched to Kjet in june if I remember correctly).
So there's an inconsistency with that dataplate (held by two little screws only). Probability is VERY low a PO switched from K to Djet. Doubtful!

It's too risky (as you've experienced with the fuel pump) to order parts based on that dataplate. There are clear inconsistencies.
But there's a much simpler solution: your shop can spray some break cleaner on the calipers, wire brush them and read the ATE (or Bendix) stamping. When the calipers are dirty they are hard to see, true.
The rebuilt calipers you're considering are just fine, they are rebuilt by certified suppliers under sponsorship of ATE or Bendix. No worries there, risk=zero.
BTW, the calipers' mounting hardware in your car is identical for ATE or Bendix, so basically they are interchangeable, but careful, not so the components (e.g. pins pressure cross).
Good luck.

I will go to the shop tomorrow and see the caliper for myself and use brake cleaner
Is there anything else I can share that might help clarify which part to order next?
Can anyone share a link to the correct bolts / other mounting hardware that I should use to ensure proper fit?
The shop says that whatever was used to rebuild the calipers previously is not at all correct

Thanks for this. So I guess I have the D-jet after all.. I assume D-jet is not a plus point vs K-jet. As I had a 1978 previous to this and it ran much better IMO.

[carzilike]

1976, First digit of long number on top line is a 6.

How come most websites don't list a 280SE for 1976? I only see the 280S.
I know its common for vehicles that get imported to north america to be titled /registered as the next model year.