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Does your clock still work?

Started by WGB, 05 August 2011, 02:47 AM

Big_Richard

but i weigh 300 pounds and my clock still ticks  8)

Tony66_au

74 450SEL clock buggered mechanically but it does have over 600km on it

77 450SE Clock fine and keeps good time

86 230TE clock fine, keeps good time but the trip meter is buggered

gf

my clock and odometer died a while back ago- it always reads the year 1976 each time i get in. its a time machine

Big_Richard

I forgot to report back,

I checked the accuracy of my clock after a month or more and it was still dead aligned with the atomic clock.

Clearly the previously assumed inaccuracy is because i never set the clock correctly in the first place  ::)

Rimas

hey guys, the original link to the clock repair seems to be missing.

Does anyone know how to get it back? I hate looking at my stationary clock, would love to pull out the cluster and tinker!

Cheers

djenka018

I'm afraid the link is permanently broken.

All it takes is to replace the capacitor (IIRC it was only one), the cylindrically shaped component that will have value inscription in /uF and V.
Rarely, few other components will die.

I always suggest skipping Jaycar in a big circle. They reinvented nasty cheap. Not "inexpensive", cheap as in quality. If you must buy cheap retail, buy from Altronics (much better quality) or at best online order from element14 or RS components. The most expensive capacitor for given size, capacitance and volts is probably your best option (cents versus golden coins). Low ESR is not critical.


If I was not a lazy and tired, I'd probably find the link to a fellow R/C107 forum with some pictures.
Or you could google the "mercedes 107 clock repair"
Vitamin C for SL... the SLC

Rimas

Thanks Djenka will look into it  ;)

brettj

My clock was dead. I removed it and sent it to VDO for rebuilding. They did a great job! My clock now works perfectly.

Papalangi

A quick note about electrolytic capacitors.

They are polarized, meaning they have a positive and negative lead.  Usually, the negative lead is marked in some way.  Take a picture or mark the board before you remove one so you can get it right.  Otherwise your shinny new cap will go bang and make a bad smell as soon as you apply power.

The voltage is not critical, as long as the replacement is of equal or greater value it will be OK.  No need to get the highest rating you can find either, it won't work any better or last any longer.

The Capacitance value, in uF or pF, can be fudged a bit also.  Electrolytics can have a + or - 20% tolerance when new and some of the older paper ones found in old radios are -10, +100%!  I would shoot for from the original value up to about 10% greater and it will work fine.

Altho Jaycar may not be the best source for quality parts, if you aren't too sure of your soldering skills, a cheap kit from them would be a good investment before taking on your clock.

Michael
'83 300SD, I'm back!  It's the son's new car (12/2020)
1976 450SEL, 116.033  Sold it to buy a '97 Crown Vic.  Made sense at the time.
1971 250C, 114.023
1976 280C
1970 250/8