The talk about non-functioning odometers has reminded me about the other instrument that can stop with the passing of time and that is the clock.
Having refurbished a non-functioning one about 7 years ago with a few cents worth of capacitators (2 of them) and a soldering iron - it is still running and keeping perfect time - I thought it might be worth a prod back into the present.
Here is the link started at the time by Major Tom
http://forum.w116.org/interiors-and-exteriors/w116-clock-repair/ (http://forum.w116.org/interiors-and-exteriors/w116-clock-repair/)
Bill
Wow, I see my language has somewhat improved since those days ::)
Disregard the canon grease - now my favorite grease is molykote hp-500 which we pay about $550 for i think 25grams. Practically indestructible.
That reminds me, I must replace the caps in both the clock and tachometer on mine. One day.
Tim
Good write-up! It seems that every W116 clock I have seen still works and keeps perfect time, while every W110/W111 clock is not functional.
'78 280SE, 154K miles; all the original guages (incl. speedometer and odometers) and the clock still work perfectly. Maybe I'm living right---or something. :)
Hemersam
I dont know that the w116 clock ever does give trouble, perhaps i was being presumptuous at the time ;)
I know the earlier ones as fitted to w114's and the like certainly had issues with caps drying out and the clock totally stopping.
I think all these years later the clock is actually less accurate since the repair as it always seems to be out when ever i get in the car ::) so its probably best to just LEAVE IT ALONE!
My 1979 450 clock was not working when I purchased the car and I replaced the caps ?seven years ago - perfect time since.
Bill
My W116 clock is fine. My W123 clock is dead.
Heat/temperature extremes coupled with age destroys electrolytic capacitors... if the car has lived it's life in a more moderate climate, then the chances are that it will be OK.
If the caps used are an inert film type or tantalums, then they should last indefinitely.
Tim
Both my 116 clocks work and keep decent time.
Tic...Tic...Tic...
well i set the time right on my clock a couple weeks ago, when i last took my 6.9 for a drive (thrash) around my neighborhood. I shall make a point of checking it tomorrow 8)
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 06 August 2011, 07:23 AM
well i set the time right on my clock a couple weeks ago, when i last took my 6.9 for a drive (thrash) around my neighborhood. I shall make a point of checking it tomorrow 8)
Don't thrash too hard or the clock will lose time due to relativistic affects :)
koan
Maybe my clock is actually correct and the issue is time dilation due to me traveling near the speed of light.
I knew 6.9's were ahead of their time, but really not that far advanced surely ::)
Only when the headlights are on and I'm turning left.... whist coughing.
Quote from: BWalker82 on 06 August 2011, 07:44 PM
Only when the headlights are on and I'm turning left.... whist coughing.
That's the blower motor. The clock stops when someone over 150 pounds is in the left rear seat and the right turn signal is on...
but i weigh 300 pounds and my clock still ticks 8)
74 450SEL clock buggered mechanically but it does have over 600km on it
77 450SE Clock fine and keeps good time
86 230TE clock fine, keeps good time but the trip meter is buggered
my clock and odometer died a while back ago- it always reads the year 1976 each time i get in. its a time machine
I forgot to report back,
I checked the accuracy of my clock after a month or more and it was still dead aligned with the atomic clock.
Clearly the previously assumed inaccuracy is because i never set the clock correctly in the first place ::)
hey guys, the original link to the clock repair seems to be missing.
Does anyone know how to get it back? I hate looking at my stationary clock, would love to pull out the cluster and tinker!
Cheers
I'm afraid the link is permanently broken.
All it takes is to replace the capacitor (IIRC it was only one), the cylindrically shaped component that will have value inscription in /uF and V.
Rarely, few other components will die.
I always suggest skipping Jaycar in a big circle. They reinvented nasty cheap. Not "inexpensive", cheap as in quality. If you must buy cheap retail, buy from Altronics (much better quality) or at best online order from element14 or RS components. The most expensive capacitor for given size, capacitance and volts is probably your best option (cents versus golden coins). Low ESR is not critical.
If I was not a lazy and tired, I'd probably find the link to a fellow R/C107 forum with some pictures.
Or you could google the "mercedes 107 clock repair"
Thanks Djenka will look into it ;)
My clock was dead. I removed it and sent it to VDO for rebuilding. They did a great job! My clock now works perfectly.
A quick note about electrolytic capacitors.
They are polarized, meaning they have a positive and negative lead. Usually, the negative lead is marked in some way. Take a picture or mark the board before you remove one so you can get it right. Otherwise your shinny new cap will go bang and make a bad smell as soon as you apply power.
The voltage is not critical, as long as the replacement is of equal or greater value it will be OK. No need to get the highest rating you can find either, it won't work any better or last any longer.
The Capacitance value, in uF or pF, can be fudged a bit also. Electrolytics can have a + or - 20% tolerance when new and some of the older paper ones found in old radios are -10, +100%! I would shoot for from the original value up to about 10% greater and it will work fine.
Altho Jaycar may not be the best source for quality parts, if you aren't too sure of your soldering skills, a cheap kit from them would be a good investment before taking on your clock.
Michael