Cruise control?ECU?

[siddiqiumar]

Can any one tell what is this thing for?
There is an ECU type small box under the W116 steering column with part # 0015462032  412 203/1/3    1.79 12V written on it. Its pins are labeled
11 9 7 5 3
12 10 8 6 4

Pictures on following link

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/vintage-mercedes-benz/1655622-cruise-control-ecu.html#post5276103

[Big_Richard]

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[1980sdga]

What else do you want to know about it?

How do you make it work 

[WGB]

Either replace all the capacitators on the board and re-solder everything in sight or get someone else to do it - but make sure that there is a warranty attached to it.

Do a search on "cruise control amplifier" there have been a number of posts including a qualty post by M-T himself on how to restore one

Bill

[Tony66_au]

Im currently looking at swapping the non functional cruise from the Brown SE to the Green SEL using aftermarket Cruise control but retaining the MB Switch gear.

Probably add or utilise a hall effect type sensor and take speed readings from the tail shaft depending on how it gets its speed readings on the OEM unit.

I started looking at the overhauled MB units and there is a bit of hit and miss with this method according to the posts etc I've read all attributed to the  CCA units and dry solder joints or failing and off spec components.

Bearing in mind that analogue electronics was still in its infancy in the 70's id also look at issues with the printed boards re separation and its longevity once hit with a soldering iron and the spot heat damage.

I used to do a lot of board level work repairing older gear that couldn't be commercially sourced and unless you have a really good solder station or IR ovens to clean and demount components a lot of the old fibre boards will fail with heat application usually due to twisting while free and again when remounted.

Based on what i know id be asking anyone that commercially refurbishes these units to supply new PCB's, its cheap enough to get a few hundred made and they will last another 20 or 30 years.

Be meticulous if you do it yourself.

I will add details as I do the job BTW so keep an eye out.

Tony

[Big_Richard]

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[Tony66_au]

I have a spare speedo here (Actually a dash cluster as well) so I will have a look see at it thanks MT!

[TJ 450]

The PCBs are high quality with generous tracks/pads, as long as you are careful, there's no need to worry about making a new one. But, if you want to, a PCB like that can be etched at home anyway. That would be a fun project.

Tim

[Tony66_au]

Haven't done THAT in years!

I used to send a busted copy to Hong Kong components and all and they would send me back the sample and however many boards I wanted, they would even supply components if I wanted them at varying prices depending on quality.

Actually............ theres a thought!

[Big_Richard]

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[1980sdga]

I went searching for the caps once and couldn't find the correct values locally. I actually plan on revisiting the project in the future.

Sort of OT but...

I've been fooling with PIC's and Hall effect sensors dreaming of a home-brew replacement for the CC amp. Koan did a lot of homework on the actuator 

[Tony66_au]

Ive etched boards at home before- back in the days of irdeto 1


All u need is a laser printer, a transparency, a board, a uv light source and some dangerous chemicals.


Ahhh memories..

Ahhhh you younguns dont know about the glory days!

When I was a lad workin down T pit all we had was blank boards and a wax pen!

We had to MAKE our own dangerous chemicals and drink t leftovers with nowt but a cup o hot gravel to stop the abdominal bleeding lol

As for components no longer available?

Considering both the Russians and the Chinese still manufacture Valves (See "Steam radio") there isn't much that cant be sourced componentry wise although I suspect copyright may be an issue reproducing the boards even with some redesigns shouldn't be that difficult.

Stewarts electronics in Huntingdale Vic was where i used to go and if they didnt have stock they could usually find it sharpish, The USA also has an amazing number of componentry manufacturers doing boutique components so google is your friend there.

[Tony66_au]

I went searching for the caps once and couldn't find the correct values locally. I actually plan on revisiting the project in the future.

Sort of OT but...

I've been fooling with PIC's and Hall effect sensors dreaming of a home-brew replacement for the CC amp. Koan did a lot of homework on the actuator 

Not a bad idea Jon!

As my Loves are D jet cars the reality of failing modules got me thinking a while back about grabbing some units and seeing if I could rebuild or redesign them, Then I thought that an aftermarket system with its onboard diags and tweakability would probably be more fun and the cost really isnt that bad either.

But I still had the urge to repair/redesign what is basically a fairly simple system.

All of this is well worth a section of its own as it seems we have a few here who are more than capable of doing board level work and design.

Tony

[koan]

In the speedo is a ring magnet going round, the sensor is a coil of wire on a metal piece in a black box. Seem to remember the magnet has 4 pairs of poles so there 4 cycles per rotation of the speedo cable (could be 2 pairs of poles).

Rather than redesign and build an analog system that relies on storing a charge on a cap for the speed reference, a micro doing some pulse counting and comparing would be easier.

[1980sdga]

That's what I was thinking Koan. Don't know if you've seen my LED tach project but it seems like it would be pretty similar.

Since the PIC's I've been working with have low amp/volt outputs some type of amp would be required to drive the actuator. I was looking at a L298:
http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Robotics/L298_H_Bridge.pdf

and a PIC to drive the actuator. I'm guessing you'd need an H gate to power the actuator in both directions?

Wow, talk about wandering