central locking

[olliparr]

Perhaps a little radical, and not in keeping with the spirit of 'restoration', but the idea has come to me to replace the vaccuum central locking (which despite much head scratching will not work), with an electric one from a later model. Any suggestions - cries of coward &/or lunatic from out there?

[alabbasi]

It can be done, there are universal kits out there. But you'll have to buy new motors.

[Papalangi]

I'm considering a kit from this source,
http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm

While the vacuum system has a certain coolness, mine needs new plastic hoses, a couple of diaphragms and a few other bits to work right and then I'd still need to interface something to get remote unlock, which I'd like to have.

By adding two more motors, I could include the fuel filler door and trunk.

Michael

[olliparr]

Good site - not as expensive as I had thought. Just on the subject of locks - my passenger side door refuses to have anything to do with the key that unlocks the drivers door leaving me a stretch every time the wife wants to join me. Is this normal (the key I mean..?) Was the passenger side supplied with a different key originally?

[Papalangi]

I'd guess that the lock was changed out at some time.  Could be that the driver's side wore out and rather than use two keys every day, the passenger lock was switched to the drivers side and the used lock was installed in the passenger door.  A locksmith can fix it for you if you want or if you want to try it, you'll need to get another lock for the wafers.  Take it apart and you'll find some brass wafers, look at the edge and you'll see some notches that identify the cuts.  Use wafers from the spare lock and the original to recombinate the passenger lock to the existing key.

As far as I know, there are only three cuts so you shouldn't need a big pile of wafers and may get away with just the ones in the original lock.  I just did this to a wrecking yard ignition cylinder so I wouldn't have to use two keys.

Michael

[The Warden]

Good site - not as expensive as I had thought. Just on the subject of locks - my passenger side door refuses to have anything to do with the key that unlocks the drivers door leaving me a stretch every time the wife wants to join me. Is this normal (the key I mean..?) Was the passenger side supplied with a different key originally?

Might you be using a valet key?

The 123 chassis (and, I'm 99% sure, the 116 chassis as well) cars were supplied with two keys. One has a square head and is the master key, and the other (usually) has a round head and is the valet key. I think the valet key is thicker or thinner; the bump pattern is identical. But, the valet key will only operate the driver's door and the ignition; it won't operate the passenger's door, the trunk, or the glove box.

I found some key blanks that I made to work on my 123, and they ended up functioning as valet keys...

Just a thought

[olliparr]

Not a Valet key I think since the boot and glove compartment are very cooperative, though interesting bit of knowledge. Perhaps the locks were changed. Better ask my Valet to fix it.

[koan]

If you fix and keep the vac system and just put one actuator on the driver's door you get everything, doors, boot and fuel flap - on a 116 that is, don't know how the central locking works on other chassis.

I bought an alarm with integrated central locking and immobiliser etc.

Papalangi is right, the smooth quiet vac locking is just too cool (kewl ? ;).

k

[Papalangi]

If I fix it, I'll have to figure out why the fuel door locks when the car is unlocked and vice versa.

Michael

[BAR]

Last time I bought a new diagphram assembly it was $100.  The cost of an electric system is of course cheaper than replacing all 6 of these [boot and fuel flap plus 4 doors].  I really prefer the silent action of the vacuum system as opposed to the noiy slam of electric locks.

The MB plastic air line can be relaced with modern silicon air hose.  It is easier to get hold of, comes on a roll - and can be cut to lenght.  It is very flexible and looks less likely to snap at the door-to-bodywork sections.

I bought mine at a local 'tune-up' garage.  It is also very good as a replacement to the underbonnet air lines if and when they break.

[s class]

Papalangi,

If the fuel flap actuator operation is reversed, surely the two vacuum supply hoses to it have become switched?  THis would be easy to check and correct at the actuator unit, accessible via the trunk.

Ryan

[Papalangi]

Sounds reasonable but...

There is only one diaphragm and one hose to the fuel door.  A spring returns the lock when vacuum is released.

It could be that every thing but the fuel door is backward but how?

Michael

[oscar]

Papalangi,

You're right about the spring and single diaphragm, however - there's two attachments to the vacuum element for the fuel door flap. I don't know for sure but change the line over to the other one and see if this cures the problem.

I had to edit and check my facts.  A pic says it all

[Papalangi]

I had mine out several times and did try both ports.  It's been awhile but I seem to remember that one port connects to the diaphragm side and the other vents to air because the metal part is made for two diaphragms but I could be wrong.

I eventually gave up due to massive leaks that a vacuum generator couldn't keep up with, let alone the engine.

That and the passenger door needs that tiny little spring that makes the lock follow the actuator rod.

Michael