Garage > Mechanicals

Central locking troubleshooting and repair

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raueda1:
Mine no longer holds overnight so it's time to fix it.  I've got the manual and will be reading and rereading.  The system seems only slightly less complex than the fuel injection.   I did search here but didn't find all that much.  So here are a few general questions:

Tips, Tricks and Techniques:  Anything special secrets that aren't in the manual?

Tools and equipment:  I've got a vacuum pump (for AC systems), vac gauge and countless Y's, T's, connectors and spare tubes.  Will I need anything else?

Typical failure patterns and what to replace:  Do the system elements tend to fail at the same time?  If, for example, an actuator is no good, does it make sense to change them all?

Rubber accordion in door:  The old ones are cracked but I seem to have new spares.  Seems like a good time to replace them.  Can this be done with the door on?  I'm assuming that all the tubing and wires can be disconnected inside the door and the new accordion slid along the bundle and out the hole in the door.  Is this reasonable or even possible?

Other stuff while the door is apart?  The driver's window is a bit sluggish so I'll try to take that up as well.  Anything else to do while I'm in there?

Trying not to reinvent the wheel here.  Thanks in advance for any info or tricks.  Cheers,

Alec300SD:

--- Quote from: raueda1 on 08 April 2021, 10:24 AM ---Mine no longer holds overnight so it's time to fix it.  I've got the manual and will be reading and rereading.  The system seems only slightly less complex than the fuel injection.   I did search here but didn't find all that much.  So here are a few general questions:

Tips, Tricks and Techniques:  Anything special secrets that aren't in the manual?

Tools and equipment:  I've got a vacuum pump (for AC systems), vac gauge and countless Y's, T's, connectors and spare tubes.  Will I need anything else?

Typical failure patterns and what to replace:  Do the system elements tend to fail at the same time?  If, for example, an actuator is no good, does it make sense to change them all?

Rubber accordion in door:  The old ones are cracked but I seem to have new spares.  Seems like a good time to replace them.  Can this be done with the door on?  I'm assuming that all the tubing and wires can be disconnected inside the door and the new accordion slid along the bundle and out the hole in the door.  Is this reasonable or even possible?

Other stuff while the door is apart?  The driver's window is a bit sluggish so I'll try to take that up as well.  Anything else to do while I'm in there?

Trying not to reinvent the wheel here.  Thanks in advance for any info or tricks.  Cheers,

--- End quote ---
Tools and equipment: 
Spare check valve(s).

Rubber accordion in door:   
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/362539-diy-pictorial-replacing-rubber-boots-cabin-door.html

Other stuff while door is apart:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/399670-w116-door-check-maintenance-repair.html
Check and lubricate window regulators & window guides.
Replace interior and exterior rubber window weatherstrip/wipers if cracked.
Make sure drain holes in bottom of doors are free flowing.

ptashek:

--- Quote from: raueda1 on 08 April 2021, 10:24 AM ---Tips, Tricks and Techniques:  Anything special secrets that aren't in the manual?

--- End quote ---

- a common, but rarely mentioned source of leaks is the rear reservoir grommet through which the hardline enters the tank


--- Quote ---Tools and equipment:  I've got a vacuum pump (for AC systems), vac gauge and countless Y's, T's, connectors and spare tubes.  Will I need anything else?
--- End quote ---

- patience ;D


--- Quote ---Typical failure patterns and what to replace:  Do the system elements tend to fail at the same time?  If, for example, an actuator is no good, does it make sense to change them all?

--- End quote ---

- aside from the reservoir grommet, the master "vacuum switch" in the drivers door is the first suspect
- from own experience, if one actuator has cracked/leaking rubbers, they will all look more or less the same; replacing all is the best approach here


--- Quote ---Rubber accordion in door:  The old ones are cracked but I seem to have new spares.  Seems like a good time to replace them.  Can this be done with the door on?  I'm assuming that all the tubing and wires can be disconnected inside the door and the new accordion slid along the bundle and out the hole in the door.  Is this reasonable or even possible?
--- End quote ---

- sounds like a plan, albeit I've replaced mine when the door was off so can't say for sure



--- Quote ---Other stuff while the door is apart?  The driver's window is a bit sluggish so I'll try to take that up as well.  Anything else to do while I'm in there?
--- End quote ---


- check for rust at the bottom of the door; there's usually a ton of debris accumulated there as well
- lubricate door hinges (you'll need a grease gun to do that)

daantjie:
Both Alec300SD and ptashek make great points here.
When door card is off this is a great time to clean, inspect and lube your window mechanisms, they are notorious for warping due to old/lack of grease.  This is dirty work but very satisfying to go the whole hog once you have the door cards off.  Also lube the latch mechanism and check the door pulls for easy action, very easy to lube all the pivot points once you have it all open.  I used my trusty Permatex Dialectric Grease liberally, great stuff.  You may also want to replace the plastic membranes, they are usually a bit crusty by now.  I just cut my own from thick, clear plastic, and sealed them back on.  It does make a difference to keep moisture out of the cabin.

BCK1963:
I think it looks and reads more complicated than it actually is.
If you test one actuator after another by taking off all unnecessary tubes and closing all openings, you will get a good result with the vacuum pump.
The more people you ask the more primary suspects you will get. If you find one membrane to be done, there is a good chance that the others will follow soon.
On my car the driver's door master vacuum switch and tank lid actuator were the ones.
With all tubes and wires removed you can change the accordion but fixing it in its place is a mess because typical human fingers are too thick and have too few links.

Good luck.

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