Bushings for front end question

[hans moleman]

I changed nearly everything in the front end except for the LCA bushes this past year. Like the others have mentioned if you source parts from Rockauto, Parts geek and Autohausaz (using e-coupons when possible) the parts are suprisingly cheap. With air tools the job went pretty smoothly as I recall. I used a pickle fork and BFH to remove the various ball joints just don't expect to reuse any components that have been extracted. The end result? Car tracks straight down the highway and handles nice and tight.

[goldacre]

Regarding that spreader bar idea, i am sure i read in the Org recently that if you get a rotund person to sit in the drivers seat while the alignment is been done it will compensate for a driver in the car. Most of my driving is solo which is 80% of the time.

G

PS

Carrying on from s class's response, I would rate the lower front suspension as "don't try this at home", unless you like a hyper-cosmic-googolplex scale challenge. It is epic!

Having experience first hand TJ450s commitment and dedication to fixing W116s i would take his comment above regarding difficulty very seriously!

[HAKO]

A question to all of you who have replaced all the front end bushings.

After replacing  all the rubbers, is the car more stable on the road,softer etc.?

HAKO

[WGB]

These cars had very precise handling, tracking and steering for their day, and having replaced all rubbers and ball joints (with the exception of the chassis rubbers for both sway bars - next job) in both front and rear suspensions in my 6.9 the difference is certainly worth the effort.

Front suspension can be re-bushed and re-armed for about AUD$700 if you are prepared to use non Mercedes Supplied parts and spend the time.

The upper arms are very easy to replace/repair and can be done without compressing springs - just follow the exact instructions in the workshop manual and keep the lower arm supported so that the spring remains compressed.

I disagree that the lower arms are not a DIY job and I also disagree that the yoke and lower arms need to be dropped as a whole unit.

http://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/front-suspension-lower-arm-rebuild/msg59966/#msg59966

You will need an adequate spring compressor if not working on a 6.9.

IMHO pickle bars are best kept to open the beer afterwards (non screw tops of course).

If you use a reasonable quality hinged puller (probably only about $30) onto a loosened nut (to protect the thread of the ball joint) you can easily break all joints and if any of them are good they can be re-used.

Bill

[TJ 450]

Regarding that spreader bar idea, i am sure i read in the Org recently that if you get a rotund person to sit in the drivers seat while the alignment is been done it will compensate for a driver in the car. Most of my driving is solo which is 80% of the time.

G

PS

Carrying on from s class's response, I would rate the lower front suspension as "don't try this at home", unless you like a hyper-cosmic-googolplex scale challenge. It is epic!

Having experience first hand TJ450s commitment and dedication to fixing W116s i would take his comment above regarding difficulty very seriously!

That was a jocular remark.

But, it isn't a walk in the park.

Bill, I'm interested to know that you don't have to separate the cross yoke... I always thought the bolts were an issue (clearance).

Tim

[koan]

Bill, I'm interested to know that you don't have to separate the cross yoke... I always thought the bolts were an issue (clearance).

I had to drop the cross yoke to do the bottom arms, does it depend on which way the bolts are installed?

Shouldn't the yoke to body bushes be replaced at the same time?

koan

[arman]

Is it easy to inspect the bushings and other parts on excessive wear? I mean does it work with the car up in the air and a flashlight to see underneath. Or do I have to separate parts to be able to inspect rubber bushing elements? 

[WGB]

Bill, I'm interested to know that you don't have to separate the cross yoke... I always thought the bolts were an issue (clearance).

I had to drop the cross yoke to do the bottom arms, does it depend on which way the bolts are installed?

Shouldn't the yoke to body bushes be replaced at the same time?

koan

I did drop my cross yoke and replaced the cross yoke bushes which from memory were the most difficult to push in but I did not drop the whole assembly as a unit as S class has suggested.

I vaguely remember some difficulty refitting bolts but I don't think it was particularly  insurmountable - from memory I re-fitted the arms at the front joint and then refitted the yoke which was the reverse ofthe way I removed it.

Without re-reading the manual - I know I followed it's instructions on assembly/dissassembly but found it very vague with reference to alignment of the cross yoke bushes and split inner arm bushes.

Bill