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Boot/Trunk central locking

Started by Howard60, 05 April 2020, 05:34 AM

Howard60

Hi
After successfully repairing the two rear door central locking rubber bellows (replacement kit courtesy of Kent at MercedesSource in the states) I was hoping to do the same
with the boot (trunk) one, but although I had harvested two very serviceable bellows from the rear doors, the construction of the unit is different here?
It looks like a sealed unit, I cant see how to remove the bellows, at least on one side, and then how to re-attach the replacements?

Has anyone successfully done this repair? I have blanked off the air hoses, but would like to be able to use the whole central locking system.

Very frustrating!

Howard
Previously: 280ce W123, 450slc C107, 350se W116, 230e W123, 250ce W114

ptashek

If memory serves, neither the trunk nor the fuel flap elements are repairable. The bellows is integrated with the "control rod", unlike the door ones where it slides on top of a catch.

They're both still available as NOS items from MB.

A1168000275 (trunk) is around €150.
A1078001275 (fuel flap) is around €60.

That's about a 50% increase since I bought them in 2013.
1993 "Pearl Blue" W124 280TE
1988 "Arctic White" W124 200T
1979 "Icon Gold" W116 450SE

Howard60

Yes your memory does. That certainly seems to look the case, fortunately my filler cap still locks, so Ill get used to manually locking the boot!
i think the price negates me the luxury of a full integrated locking system.

thanks for your speedy reply

Howard
Previously: 280ce W123, 450slc C107, 350se W116, 230e W123, 250ce W114

daantjie

These pop up occasionally on ebay for cheap if you're lucky. Don't buy used ones.
Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9 - Astralsilber

Howard60

So add to the complication, the car had been standing for a few weeks, so I started the engine to charge the vacuum reservoir,
after reattaching the hoses to the diaphragm -they had been blanked off before I got to them, and they worked!
But the rear doors stopped working??!!
Then I foolishly closed the boot and it wont open (also turns out the key I had was not for the boot) So I am now locked out of the boot!

So apart from ordering a replacement key which will take some time under our present circumstances to get back into the boot.
I then I need to ascertain why the rear doors stopped working? Are the two problems related? Is this a Mercedes anomaly, Or safety feature ?

Confused of Teddington!
Previously: 280ce W123, 450slc C107, 350se W116, 230e W123, 250ce W114

revilla

Been there...  :-[

You can try the following:

Either at the B pillar and/or behind the rear seat you will find 2 plastic tubes. They are on the right side of your car. One in yellow with green stripe (to unlock under vacuum), the other is yellow with red stripe (to lock under vacuum).
Disconnect from the rubber connector. Blow pressure into the yellow-red one, or alternatively, pull vacuum from the yellow-green one. That trick should unlock both your fuel cover and your trunk.

Good luck.
Let us know of the results.

BTW, the rubber membranes on both are repairable. I used a thin rubber latex from a glove with bicycle tire repair glue. Works like a charm. The leak was small though.These bellows are smaller in diameter than those on the doors, but they can be in fact separated from the unit the same way the ones at the doors can.

mrkozzy

As a side,
Back in November 2014 I wrote an article "New central locking installed". Its in this forum somewhere.
This was an electronic kit which is still working on the 4 doors. Nothings gone wrong with it. Haven't even changed the remotes battery. (perhaps I should)
I got used to opening the boot/trunk with the key.
I lost the ability to lock the fuel filler cap.

About the only non genuine working part on the car. 
MrKozzy

Howard60

Thanks all Ill keep you all posted.

On another note, does anyone know of or as access to a key/lock decoder?
Its an idea  suggested to me by my sone, that if I can work out the key/lock code, I can get a replacement key locally (and perhaps more cheaply)?

cheers

Howard
Previously: 280ce W123, 450slc C107, 350se W116, 230e W123, 250ce W114

ptashek

Quote from: Howard60 on 06 April 2020, 01:02 PM
Thanks all Ill keep you all posted.

On another note, does anyone know of or as access to a key/lock decoder?
Its an idea  suggested to me by my sone, that if I can work out the key/lock code, I can get a replacement key locally (and perhaps more cheaply)?

cheers

Howard

Any half decent car key cutting place should be able to make a new key off of the original, the less used the better of course. Even better if you have the spare master key that came with the car in a sealed plastic pouch from factory.

The blank was either a Silca HU41P or YM15P, based on my random collection of notes. Both are readily available.
1993 "Pearl Blue" W124 280TE
1988 "Arctic White" W124 200T
1979 "Icon Gold" W116 450SE

ptashek

HU41P seems to be late model (1979-1980), YM15P is 1973-1979. At least that's what the online catalogue from Silca lists these as.
1993 "Pearl Blue" W124 280TE
1988 "Arctic White" W124 200T
1979 "Icon Gold" W116 450SE

Howard60

...only thing is I dont have the boot key. I believe the door and ignition key have been changed at some point in the past,
as it doesn't fit the boot or glove box. The boot had always been unlocked (the car is still relatively new to me) so I never got
round to sourcing a new one.

So i cant duplicate it, just get a new one if the chassis number is enough info for Merecedes to order me it.

Which might take a long time in this present climate, if indeed they can get one?

that is my dilemma
Previously: 280ce W123, 450slc C107, 350se W116, 230e W123, 250ce W114

ptashek

Quote from: Howard60 on 06 April 2020, 05:13 PM
So i cant duplicate it, just get a new one if the chassis number is enough info for Merecedes to order me it.

Which might take a long time in this present climate, if indeed they can get one?

If you have the original data card, the key number is on it, and they'll match it no problem. I think they can match by chassis number as well.

However, you'll need to personally present at a dealership with the V5C in your name, and photo ID in hand. They won't order keys otherwise as a security measure.
1993 "Pearl Blue" W124 280TE
1988 "Arctic White" W124 200T
1979 "Icon Gold" W116 450SE

Alec300SD

Quote from: Howard60 on 06 April 2020, 05:13 PM
...only thing is I dont have the boot key. I believe the door and ignition key have been changed at some point in the past,
as it doesn't fit the boot or glove box. The boot had always been unlocked (the car is still relatively new to me) so I never got
round to sourcing a new one.

So i cant duplicate it, just get a new one if the chassis number is enough info for Merecedes to order me it.

Which might take a long time in this present climate, if indeed they can get one?

that is my dilemma

Perhaps you have a valet key with the more rounded head?

Usually proof of ownership is required to order replacement keys, some dealerships require the car to be physically present.
The local MB dealer should be able to provide a VIN coded set of keys, if not try the MB Classic Center.

Order at least two master keys with the squarish head, so as to have an emergency spare.
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Howard60

I think this is the original data card?
Its the only bit of info that a came with the car. The Mercedes dealership informs me that Germany no longer supplies
these keys, or replacements locks? But maybe Im asking in the wrong place.
see attached, is this useful?
Previously: 280ce W123, 450slc C107, 350se W116, 230e W123, 250ce W114

Nabstud

Hi Howard, on a totally unrelated topic, I noticed you have interior code 165. Any chance you could post a pic of the interior colour? It would answer a mystery about my car haha!!!
Cheers
Nick
1975 280S - Australian delivered