Well after almost a year I am close to a restart of a 1977 4.5 !!!
I have acquired many 1979 fuel system parts as suggested in M117 manual. I plan to clean existing parts on the car that I did not upgrade.
I have removed the air meter housing & fuel distributor. Purchased a kit to rebuild cast iron distributor. After buying kit I found a good deal on an 1979 alloy distributor with a metering housing. Neither distributors fuel piston moves ! I read distributor is not rebuildable if piston is stuck.!!! I do not believe that !!! I think it is the ethanol in the gas gummed up, all it needs is a good cleaning. Is this logic correct ?
Have kit for current WUR. After I bought that kit i found another good deal on a 1979 WUR.
Bought new complete fuel system under car...fuel pump, strainer, etc under car.
The car was last tagged I think in 2002. I removed a valve cover & chain seems tight enough, & no oil sludge ! Looks very well maintained. Best I can tell the plastic clip parts seem ok. Anti freeze looks clear and good to 30 or -30 I cannot remember. Plugs look new. Tires tread look new except dry rotted. Mucho expensive tires when new. Car has 90,000 miles on it. Someone either serviced this car recently trying to get it to run or it was freshly serviced & then parked for some reason.
Advice is needed, should I clean & rebuild current parts and hope it starts. Or clean & use the 1979 parts. My thinking is, oh I for got I removed the gas tank & it had lots of dried fuel. Looked inside with a scope & my friend did not see any rust, but I could not tell because the dried gas is rust colored and also stick to the sides. I do think I used a magnet on the dried stuff that came out of the tank & it did not stick to the magnet. My thinking is if I start it now there may be trash still in the tank or fuel lines that will clog up my new injectors & strainer etc... and freshly cleaned upgraded parts. I need to blow out the fuel lines. Or since car seems to be sorta well maintained many moons ago should I go for it now.
I am sure I left out other points I want to include but I will pause for now.
Any and all help is extremely wanted & appreciated.
This forum is greatly responsible for me making it this far with my cherished RESCUE/hooptie ha ;)
I THANK-YOU ALL GREATLY....... :) :) :)
Do I take it that you have bought a new FD and WUR but yet to fit them?
..so we are working with the existent system?
So long as the baffle moves thru it's range without any hesitation we should be good to go.
Putting anew FD on is not a simple case of plug n play. Combined with a new WUR could be anybody's guess.
Before you start it, disconnect the main fuel feed to the distributor. Disconnect the blue electrical fuel connector on the top of the FD. Turn on the on the ignition: get a jug and collect the fuel. Do this about 5 times to ensure that nothing is coming thru but fuel. All clear? Well then you know that all the back of shop is OK. It generally is...the real nuisance lies ahead!
Remove the fitting in the FD that the fuel feed connects to. There is a small filter....well sometimes there is. Take it out if fitted and reverse clean it. Put it back together.
Now go to the WUR.
Uncouple the feed line and in the WUR you will see another fine filter. Do what is necessary to clean it....if it need cleaning.
This is not an absolute answer but it it will establish a couple more things for you.
Good luck.
Quote from: Randys01 on 08 October 2021, 01:36 AM
Do I take it that you have bought a new FD and WUR but yet to fit them?
..so we are working with the existent system?
So long as the baffle moves thru it's range without any hesitation we should be good to go.
Putting anew FD on is not a simple case of plug n play. Combined with a new WUR could be anybody's guess.
Before you start it, disconnect the main fuel feed to the distributor. Disconnect the blue electrical fuel connector on the top of the FD. Turn on the on the ignition: get a jug and collect the fuel. Do this about 5 times to ensure that nothing is coming thru but fuel. All clear? Well then you know that all the back of shop is OK. It generally is...the real nuisance lies ahead!
Remove the fitting in the FD that the fuel feed connects to. There is a small filter....well sometimes there is. Take it out if fitted and reverse clean it. Put it back together.
Now go to the WUR.
Uncouple the feed line and in the WUR you will see another fine filter. Do what is necessary to clean it....if it need cleaning.
This is not an absolute answer but it it will establish a couple more things for you.
Good luck.
Much thanks Randy ~~~
The only NEW parts I have are injectors, Pump, Accumulator, filter, hoses, strainer, wires & plugs, air cleaner/intake seal, probably will buy injector holders & seals.
I have rebuild kits for cast iron distributor, 1977 WUR,
I found the filter in fuel distributor fitting but do not know how to remove it to clean it !!!
Your info about running the pump is great to learn... Thank-you
A big concern is I need a gasket for between the meter housing & lower meter housing part. More importantly there was lots of carbon build up & maybe hood insulation present when I removed the metering housing, I cleaned it but am worried what lies below......... :o I would like to clean down farther down below but lot of work I think.........
What about the stuck fuel distributor piston ? Is it ruined ? It appears to be stuck solid...........
I am thinking of using the 1977 parts to just get car started and see if there are any major problems. Then after all rough running issues are HOPEFULLY FIXED. Then install the supposedly improve 1979 parts....... I was hoping to get everything installed now to save having to remove & reinstall parts........I still may use the 1979 parts I don't know.........ha
The baffle you mention, is that the air metering plate? What baffle are you referring to ?
I plan to adjust the air plate height properly. Should I lube the roller inside the housing. If so what lube should I use ?
Anyway, keep wishing me luck.......ha
You can find plenty of people that have rebuilt their Fuel Distributor and WUR. I would offer .02 that you send them to http://www.cisflowtech.com/ for rebuild, calibration and testing. That way they come back fully ready to work properly. These 2 parts are the heart of the system.
Quote from: rumb on 08 October 2021, 11:42 AM
You can find plenty of people that have rebuilt their Fuel Distributor and WUR. I would offer .02 that you send them to http://www.cisflowtech.com/ for rebuild, calibration and testing. That way they come back fully ready to work properly. These 2 parts are the heart of the system.
Yes rumb.............but I am gonna give it try. I have studied many, many hours, & watched several videos of how to rebuild them...............I cannot afford the rebuild prices........Thank you for the info......... :)
Do you think the stuck fuel piston caused any harm ??? Is it called a piston.........I forgot the proper name..........
I replaced the entire fuel assembly 7-8 months ago.
I saw some dirt/a bit rust in the tank. To go easy with the new fuel pump I installed a small filter between strainer and pressure damper (before pump inlet). You see the filter to the left in the picture.
Recommended by MercedesSource.
There is not much space for the filter, but with a 90 deg hose nipple I managed to squeeze it in (see pic).
Sorry, filter at the top
Great idea Jan. I watch MercedesSource a lot. That's Uncle Kenny I was told.......his prices are weird. Your tip helps a lot... Thnak-you :)
Quote from: TNNBENZ on 08 October 2021, 11:57 AM
Quote from: rumb on 08 October 2021, 11:42 AM
You can find plenty of people that have rebuilt their Fuel Distributor and WUR. I would offer .02 that you send them to http://www.cisflowtech.com/ for rebuild, calibration and testing. That way they come back fully ready to work properly. These 2 parts are the heart of the system.
Yes rumb.............but I am gonna give it try. I have studied many, many hours, & watched several videos of how to rebuild them...............I cannot afford the rebuild prices........Thank you for the info......... :)
Do you think the stuck fuel piston caused any harm ??? Is it called a piston.........I forgot the proper name..........
A stuck piston is a huge issue. Search the forum for my hydrolock story. It absolutely MUST move freely and without scratches or flaws either on the piston or cylinder. It may be stuck because of varnish or gunk from the fuel or rust frrm water in the fuel or both. Either way, if you can't get it moving freely throughout its travel you're going to need a new one.
As for FD rebuild, the consensus seems to be that the alloy units are NOT rebuildable, or at least not properly rebuildable, without a lot of specialized equipment. Just taking it apart, cleaning and reassembling really isn't a rebuild. Messing with it will almost certain cause calibration to be disturbed. To rebuild the iron unit the FD faces must be polished to mirror smoothness. You'll need a granite grade A surface plate and polishing papers going down to 2000 grit. 3000 is better. It's a lot of trouble, but necessary. Keep us posted and good luck!
Yes raueda1 I agree .
My cast distributor looks almost new. The alloy one looks good. I have seen many videos on youtube that claim their rebuilds or imply they work. They mentioned your concerns. One suggest a piece of glass & sand paper. I would use crocus paper. Why do you have to polish & flatten the distributor halves just because you take them apart. They should still be flat if I do not scratch them.
Also the alloy distributor is more sensitive. I do think I may just clean it lightly, will decide later & revisit youtube.
I never realized a stuck FD plunger could be something other than gummed gas and or rotted plunger seals. I must get them freed without damage, I did know that ! How would you free up the piston ? I was thinking of soaking in a solution. Not sure what solution, cleaning vinegar did an unbelievable job on my screen in the tank !
You want to buy a 1977 Merc ? :-\ ha :'( ha.........
Quote from: TNNBENZ on 10 October 2021, 12:14 AMYes raueda1 I agree .
My cast distributor looks almost new. The alloy one looks good. I have seen many videos on youtube that claim their rebuilds or imply they work. They mentioned your concerns. One suggest a piece of glass & sand paper. I would use crocus paper. Why do you have to polish & flatten the distributor halves just because you take them apart. They should still be flat if I do not scratch them.
You're misunderstanding the nature of the rebuild. The fact that the piston is stuck suggests that the internals of the FD are anything but almost new. Have you cracked the cases apart yet? If not, the you can't base anything on external appearance. Regardless, if what you're doing is a "rebuild" and you expect it to work properly then the internal surfaces MUST be mirror smooth. If the FD is used, it isn't new. Simple as that. There are tiny orifices inside that need to make perfect surface contact with the steel diaphragm. I don't know about crocus paper or what the difference is. Regardless, this is the process:
1. Splitting the unit & Disassembly
1.1. Remove all the screws and bolt on the underside. Split the unit. This can be difficult. Grip the upper half in a vice and smack the lower half with a plastic hammer. Once split, you can wiggle the lower half upwards off the metering barrel. Try to ensure that the central stainless shim stays behind, so that the springs and shims remain securely trapped in the upper half.
1.2. Carefully remove the stainless shim.
1.3. Withdraw the spring seats, springs, and shims from each of the 8 ports. It is very important that you somehow make note of what goes where, as they MUST all go back in their original places.
1.4. Grip the lower portion of the metering barrel in a vice with aluminum jaws, ensuring that you are gripping on the non-working area of the barrel. You should then be able to wiggle the top of the FD off the barrel. You will then see the 8 metering slits with rubber o rings.
2. Internal Cleaning and Refacing
2.1. The upper and lower halves of the FD may have rust in in places. You need to clean all this out with small files, pick tools, 800/1500 wet/dry paper etc.
2.2. Reface the surfaces on the glass. Make a few light passes with 600 grit first. If it all looks flat then proceed to the 800, 1500 and 2000. The mating faces should be mirror smooth.
2.3. The trick comes with the top half. Pull out the tiny filters from the output port with a self tapper screw or similar. When facing the surface, the 8 metering ports MUST touch the wet dry paper. This will be evident as a change in their color. Before you start, the metering port tips will be a dull grey. After the wet dry paper they will go shiny silver. Each one must be perfect.
2.4. The upper and lower halves of the FD may have rust in in places. You need to clean all this out with small files, pick tools, 800/1500 wet/dry paper etc.
Quote from: TNNBENZ on 10 October 2021, 12:14 AMAlso the alloy distributor is more sensitive. I do think I may just clean it lightly, will decide later & revisit youtube.
Not sure what "clean it lightly" entails.... Regardless, be careful with youtube. Some videos are excellent, others will destroy what you're working on. Many offer "shortcuts." Be highly suspicious of those. [/quote]
Quote from: TNNBENZ on 10 October 2021, 12:14 AMI never realized a stuck FD plunger could be something other than gummed gas and or rotted plunger seals. I must get them freed without damage, I did know that ! How would you free up the piston ? I was thinking of soaking in a solution. Not sure what solution, cleaning vinegar did an unbelievable job on my screen in the tank !
You want to buy a 1977 Merc ? :-\
Under no circumstances use vinegar. It's water based and acidic which will promote rust. Try soaking in paint thinner or using carb cleaner. Hope all this helps. Cheers,
Thank-you raueda 1 !!! I was very disappointed that I a have 2 useless FD. Another forum several members said a stuck piston is hopeless to fix. After much thought I do not believe that. The main reason is 2 vendors sells rebuild FDs and ask for one in return, ( they rebuid them & resell them ) I do agree that if the insides are to badly rusted they are then junk. Anyway If my rebuild/clean works I will b ecstatic ;D ;D ;D
You posted : "Regardless, be careful with youtube. Some videos are excellent, others will destroy what you're working on. Many offer "shortcuts." Be highly suspicious of those." I also toatly agree with you. This is why I try to read all I can & one reason I joined this Forum.
Thanks to your extremely supportive, & informative replies you have added to my belief that I may be able to reuse my Fuel Distributors. Just as important you have brightened my spirits from being slightly distraught, to some confidence I might make this work !!! ;) :) ;)
I have both FDs under glass in a stainless steel sink heating in the beaming sun hoping to heat them to loosen & soak up the cleaners I decide to use. I am thinking of spraying first with brake cleaner, then carb cleaner, and anything else I may think of that might help. THEN I plan to pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in the recess to soak over night. I think it has nafta ? in it which is a strong cleaner. Oil what you think about WD40 or Rust blaster spray ? Also thought of using a small propane torch to heat up the whole thing..........I am trying very hard to figure out a safe solution.......
THANK-YOU so very much for your amazing help & support........ :)
Oh I just re-read you directions about how to do this I will try that first before I use a torch.........ha.
A few random comments.
crocus paper - compared to garnet type sandpapers this is preferable as garnet will embed itself into whatever you are sanding. Wet/Dry sandpapers this is not an issue.
Brake cleaner and carb cleaner are too volatile meaning it evaporates too fast. Find a solvent type cleaner. https://www.kroil.com/ is an excellent penetrating solvent. I use "solvent" I buy at a local petroleum distributor. You cant buy it much of anywhere else. It's what was used forever in cleaning tanks, now days they are water based solvents. I have no history using the new stuff, but it should work on everything for cleaning parts. Cleaning tub/sinks and water based solvent is available at Harbor Freight. A good parts cleaner is essential if you are restoring a car.
NO heat, there are orings in there.
Well I started the FD rebuild. I checked to see if all of the small filters in each FD outlet was there. well I lost one. 2 of them came lose earlier moons ago & I luckily found them. One was very lucky to find. NOW in my haste a few days earlier another one has came out !!! :-\ I will look but this one could many, many places.........I remember checking last time I found the others I checked to see if the remaining ones were in place securely & they appeared to b secure. I may have it in another place........It has benn months ago, maybe I found all 3 & just forgot.........
Anyway are these NLA. If not how & where do I get more of these worrisome filters. I read they are not supposed to come out. Is this correct ?
Quote from: rumb on 11 October 2021, 06:57 PM
A few random comments.
crocus paper - compared to garnet type sandpapers this is preferable as garnet will embed itself into whatever you are sanding. Wet/Dry sandpapers this is not an issue.
Brake cleaner and carb cleaner are too volatile meaning it evaporates too fast. Find a solvent type cleaner. https://www.kroil.com/ is an excellent penetrating solvent. I use "solvent" I buy at a local petroleum distributor. You cant buy it much of anywhere else. It's what was used forever in cleaning tanks, now days they are water based solvents. I have no history using the new stuff, but it should work on everything for cleaning parts. Cleaning tub/sinks and water based solvent is available at Harbor Freight. A good parts cleaner is essential if you are restoring a car.
NO heat, there are orings in there.
Quote from: rumb on 11 October 2021, 06:57 PM
A few random comments.
crocus paper - compared to garnet type sandpapers this is preferable as garnet will embed itself into whatever you are sanding. Wet/Dry sandpapers this is not an issue.
Brake cleaner and carb cleaner are too volatile meaning it evaporates too fast. Find a solvent type cleaner. https://www.kroil.com/ is an excellent penetrating solvent. I use "solvent" I buy at a local petroleum distributor. You cant buy it much of anywhere else. It's what was used forever in cleaning tanks, now days they are water based solvents. I have no history using the new stuff, but it should work on everything for cleaning parts. Cleaning tub/sinks and water based solvent is available at Harbor Freight. A good parts cleaner is essential if you are restoring a car.
NO heat, there are orings in there.
A rebuilder told me brake fluid. Distributor looks like it has flawless black paint on it. The FD looks new. It may have been installed by someone !!! I do not want to remove the paint which the brake fluid will do !
I am going to use a hair drier after I remove it from the beaming sun which is where it is now.
Wish me luck, & finding my 3rd missing fuel filter......... :-\
Crocus paper is the old timers name for emery cloth.
Got the FD apart with the plunger stuck in the top half !!! The innards look great. :) No rust yet unless some has the plunger stuck. I will post some pics later. There is some very light carbon dust is all dirt I see, no gum etc.......It broke loose much easier than I expected. I heated it several times with a antique hairdryer... ;) & beat it senseless ;D with a rubber hammer. I was too impatient and it was difficult to completely free the 2 halves & I spilled most of the springs & washers.
3 outlets stayed in tact so I have a reference to go by.
Now I am slowing down to be safe, & it is a little late. There is a plastic filter looking ring loosely around the plunger. I want to use a solution that is safe & will not melt the plastic or harm anything else.
Plunger is FREE @ LAST :) :) :)
No rust ::) Hallalouya ::) :) ::) This Fuel distributor looks new. Maybe very few miles... I included some pics ;)
Top & Bottom half were cleaner before I covered them with a slightly dirty rag. I did not have a lint free one handy. I need to be more patient.
This is such a relief. I have been very worried about this distributor being ruined from ethanol gas for many, many moons...
I added 5 other photos in my last post. I do not know why they did not load :o :o :o
I just need 1 fuel distributor fuel line filter...........oh the pain :-\ :-[ :o Well I was overjoyed for a while ???
You're in luck....that's one of the cleaner iron FDs Ive seen!
now to put it together...........!
Quote from: Randys01 on 15 October 2021, 11:19 PM
You're in luck....that's one of the cleaner iron FDs Ive seen!
now to put it together...........!
It is the best I ever seen straight off a vehicle, because it is the only one I EVER SEEN ;D ha... I keep making dumb mistakes mainly because of not being patient. This is how you learn, but I know better I just have to make myself do what needs doing & not keep doing thing half way or hurriedly...
I remember now that when I first took off distributor plunger was hard to move so I took a block of wood & pushed it hard & it moved but would not move back . I beat on it is why the filters came loose & some fell out. I read they were hard to remove so I did not dream they would just fall
out ! Also forgot to mark position of plunger before removal. I will spare u the rest for now. I post the details for others doing their first rebuild hoping to help them not make my mistakes.......Also to generate the veterans here to maybe help me ::) ;) ::)
There was some very slight varnish on the plunger. I used some Marvel Mystery oil to free it up. Now it slides like a precision piece should.
Another mistake I made was not marking the position the plunger housing was turned. Not sure why it needs to be reinstalled in same place. It may ensure the fuel slots are properly aligned to flow out to the individual fuel lines. Any advice anyone ?
I found a recommended height to reinstall the plunger.
Quote from: TNNBENZ on 13 October 2021, 02:34 PM
Quote from: rumb on 11 October 2021, 06:57 PM
A few random comments.
crocus paper - compared to garnet type sandpapers this is preferable as garnet will embed itself into whatever you are sanding. Wet/Dry sandpapers this is not an issue.
Brake cleaner and carb cleaner are too volatile meaning it evaporates too fast. Find a solvent type cleaner. https://www.kroil.com/ is an excellent penetrating solvent. I use "solvent" I buy at a local petroleum distributor. You cant buy it much of anywhere else. It's what was used forever in cleaning tanks, now days they are water based solvents. I have no history using the new stuff, but it should work on everything for cleaning parts. Cleaning tub/sinks and water based solvent is available at Harbor Freight. A good parts cleaner is essential if you are restoring a car.
NO heat, there are orings in there
I do not know what happened to the post before this one. Sometimes I do something wrong trying to use a quote from a previous message & it displays wrong & looks stupid ???
I am gonna try a new one next.
OK
I am about to attempt to reassemble my cast iron fuel distributor. I did not mark the height or position plunger was situated before disassembly !!!
How do I align the plunger ? A video said it has to be reinstalled the same place before it was removed. I did not mark its position duh. One suggestion for the height was was given, I forgot what the measurement was, I will have to watch vid again..........
Now what do I do ???
Also any advice for my reassembly, do I need to lube or seal anything...etc...etc...Is silicone ok for the rubber seals around the fuel slits, I guess vasoline , motor oil maybe ???
Well my help is waning...........Why hast thou forsaken me ? :-[ ::) :-[
Anyway, overjoyed after freeing the control plunger in my alloy distributor !!! It was severely stuck !!! :o I was very worried and almost certain there was rust causing it to stick. After patiently trying several ways I got it out & it looks perfect !!!!!!!!!!! Yes...........I am almost ecstatic ;D ;D ;D These 2 stuck control plungers have caused me lots of lingering worry and hesitation in completing my fuel system rebuild :-[ NOW I AM STOKED & REJUVENATED, EAGER TO FINISH THIS RESTART........WELL UNTIL MY NEXT PROBLEM which is I either have a stuck push valve or someone removed it !!! Anyone ever have a push valve that is stuck ? Looks to me it is gone !!! I will look closer later today..........
Found push valve. Now need to know differences between a 1979 airflow meter housing with alloy distributor and 1977 cast iron airflow meter housing. I think there is different vacuum line connection on bottom half of housing. Anyone made this upgrade ?
I have upgraded the duel distributor on my 6.9.
There were no additional ports etc.
Whatever else is going on in your fuel system, whilst the alloy distrb may or may not resolve you difficulties, don't expect it to idle well.
You may have to adjust the WUR. The alloy distrib is adjustable itself but you need to calibrate this before you put it on. Calibration requires a full blown replica fuel delivery circuit.
These of course are far and few between.
Just get the thing going and worry about finessing it {if necessary but almost doubtless ] down the track.
Quote from: Randys01 on 31 October 2021, 03:06 AM
I have upgraded the duel distributor on my 6.9.
There were no additional ports etc.
Whatever else is going on in your fuel system, whilst the alloy distrb may or may not resolve you difficulties, don't expect it to idle well.
You may have to adjust the WUR. The alloy distrib is adjustable itself but you need to calibrate this before you put it on. Calibration requires a full blown replica fuel delivery circuit.
These of course are far and few between.
Just get the thing going and worry about finessing it {if necessary but almost doubtless ] down the track.
Thank-you Randys01, I totally agree about the calibration.
I will use your advice after I get my important parts clean and functioning and doing the recommended revisions in the Mercedes manual. This is the main help I currently need now. The fuel plunger was stuck in dist., the air flow meter plate was stuck, and the roller for the fuel plunger also stuck from dried gas & varnish !!! This is why I bought kits for the WUR, and fuel dist.
After months of reading post on K-jet injection, many official Mercedes Benz, and BOSCH manuals, watching videos on youtube, even some on Motor Trend TV, there are 2 things I firmly believe. One I learned here first : replace the old fuel system on a car that has not been started in years. Number 2 is from the official Mercedes Benz M117 engine manual : Various upgrades to improve engine starting ; compensating valve, 13mm fuel hoses, different fuel damper, connection of 1 WUR vacuum line, etc... etc... The alloy dist has the needed compensating valve is why I am changing to it. I want to do changes now instead of later. These changes should improve engine operation according to service manual. I have a fuel pressure gauge to do all the test in the manual to hopefully get the system operable as you suggest. I truly believe with you & this forums help I can get my car running. Then I will fine tune the fuel system with the many manuals and help here and if needed take it to a mechanic.
Today I cleaned on the airflow meter and got plate moving. It needs more cleaning because I think it is a little slow moving compared to the cast iron one. I see the plate arm can be taken apart by removing 2 snap rings. I need advice whether to do this. It looks like it may be hard to reassemble correctly. Any advice on this. I think the plate needs a little more cleaning to move a little easier. It moves ok just not sure if it is right...
Help..........help................ha..........lol............ha
The flap should move freely. Just make sure it is not binding on any of the edges when it comes to its final resting position. If you think the flap is a little tardy, just apply carby cleaner and light oil until it flaps freely. Do not remove the circlips.
Thank-you very much Randy :) Your advice helps me more than u may realize. You have helped me decide how to proceed !!! The alloy housing does not have a air plate pin in the stop bracket. My thinking is maybe the plate is designed to move a little slower on a alloy distributor. Oh, I had already cleaned the plate arm with a very hot hair drier and carb cleaner & WD40 & Marvel Mystery oil. It unfroze the plate but is slightly slower than the other plate on my other housing. As you suggest I am going to start it soon & finesse it from there. I just wanted to get plate movement right while I have it apart. This is why I asked, & thankfully YOU responded. I really appreciate your help......... :)
I will post more details later because I need to get out & do some mechanicing on my Green Machine ;)
I see a push valve in the system pressure valve was added later in 1979 to help the fuel distributor operation. Anyone know have one to sell me, donate maybe ? Also there was a kit available for the compensating valve in an alloy dist. I am worried the piston in this valve maybe stuck. Anyone know how to check the operation of this valve. It has a spring so I thought to push on it & if it moves I guess it is ok. ???
To be clear some say just get it running & tweak later. I see that logic & agree. I just want to get some things done while I have it apart to save having to disassemble it again. Oh & some things had to be done because of my stuck parts........... :P
Anyway I am very happy with my progress because at first I had serious doubts if I could ever get the beater running. Now, with all your help I am confident I CAN. So as always, thank-you all.................. :) : ;) :)
Best way to prime engine oil before re-start ??? I know how to prime a FORD !!! :)
What is best way two prime an engine for oil circulation ?
How do I unfasten a Bosch electrical connector 9656. The connector is very close to the idle screw adjust.
Quote from: TNNBENZ on 20 November 2021, 01:04 PM
How do I unfasten a Bosch electrical connector 9656. The connector is very close to the idle screw adjust.
pull on the little bail wire enough to release it.
Re the priming question.
Remove the coil.
Remove the connector to the blue plug on top of the air metering box.
I find that spraying each cylinder with a Lanolin based aerosol eg IMOX takes care of the upper cylinder aspect. Squirting it with oil achieves little because it always run to the low side of the piston.
Remove the cam boxes and lube the cam lobes with any engine oil inc timing chain.and rockers.
With fresh oil in the sump and the plugs still removed form the aerosol treatment crank the motor in 3-4 second bursts .
After about 5 attempts apply more oil to the the overhead gear.
Now crank it again for about 6 -8 seconds until you see the oil pressure gauge start to move. It may come up a little sooner .
Once you have oil pressure on the gauge, observe the overhead gear and you will see oil starting to flow out of everywhere.!
OK.nail it all back together.
Do not attempt to start the motor with the cam boxes removed. It is a semi flood design and oil will go everywhere.
Quote from: Randys01 on 20 November 2021, 07:52 PM
Re the priming question.
Remove the coil.
Remove the connector to the blue plug on top of the air metering box.
I find that spraying each cylinder with a Lanolin based aerosol eg IMOX takes care of the upper cylinder aspect. Squirting it with oil achieves little because it always run to the low side of the piston.
Remove the cam boxes and lube the cam lobes with any engine oil inc timing chain.and rockers.
With fresh oil in the sump and the plugs still removed form the aerosol treatment crank the motor in 3-4 second bursts .
After about 5 attempts apply more oil to the the overhead gear.
Now crank it again for about 6 -8 seconds until you see the oil pressure gauge start to move. It may come up a little sooner .
Once you have oil pressure on the gauge, observe the overhead gear and you will see oil starting to flow out of everywhere.!
OK.nail it all back together.
Do not attempt to start the motor with the cam boxes removed. It is a semi flood design and oil will go everywhere.
randys01, Wow, this sounds like a professional answer. What is the cam box, would this be valve covers in America ?
I have to do this after such a great detailed answer. Thank-you very much randy01 ;) :) ;)