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A/C setback

Started by oscar, 31 October 2007, 12:32 AM

oscar

Today I finally got my mainfold guage set and got it connected to the 4.5kg cylinder of HR12.  Double checked everything (or so I thought).  No matter how much gas I put in, the gauges just wouldn't build up and the vents wouldn't blow cold air.  I could start to smell the gas but couldn't see where it was leaking.  Tried soapy spray on joins to no avail.  Receiver glass would show some action and then dissipate.  Then I noticed oil on the ground but on the opposite side of the engine bay to the compressor.  :(

Turns out that the cross braided thin black tube running from receiver to the firewall was the culprit.  Whilst it's in good nic most of the length, a small section below the battery tray has been affected by presumably battery acid.  It has disintegrated with no form whatsoever apart from the remnants of cross braiding. This is gonna be more expensive than what I planned. 

Any idea how much this hose is going to cost or what should I do? (excluding paying a professional). ;)  Photos tomorrow.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

alabbasi

Hoses should cost less then $100 dollars and can be had at dealers or independent parts suppliers. You will need to vac the system before charging again.

All the best

Al
With best regards

Al
Dallas, TX USA.

oscar

Thanks Al,

I've just been searching the net for examples without luck.  I'm glad it's not the suction hose, they're over $500US.  I'll have to consult my manuals when I get home to get its proper name.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

alabbasi

At that price, you can take the fittings and have the hoses made.
With best regards

Al
Dallas, TX USA.

oscar

I'd agree.  Not sure where I'd go locally but I'm sure someone here could point me in the right direction.

Well, I got curious and ducked home to check out one of the wrecking 280's and despite them having York compressors, at least they have the same hose.  I may try a transplant from one of them first before ordering a new one.  I also went to get the camera to show off the perished section of the hose.

Firstly, the only good thing that came out of today was getting the manifold gauge setup which appeared to work well.



Oil leak in the background


The hose in question on the receiver end.


The same hose in good nic going into the firewall


The best pic I could manage after removing the battery tray.  The hose has perished under the braid and is also carrying some weight of the radiator expansion tank's lower hose.  It looks like a replacement and whoever effected the repair routed the hose on top of this a/c hose which is partly to blame.  You can see the kink in the a/c hose and it's lost all it's integfrity for about 3 inches.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

CraigS

EnZed should be able to replace that hose without too much trouble.

http://www.enzed.com.au/centres.php
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WGB

I had hoses and fittings made for my 450 at an A/C specialist and the expense was not a great problem - low hundreds for two hoses.

If you are in or near a rural area there must be someone who does hydraulic hoses on all those trucks and tractors - not sure if there is a difference in material but they must be able to get the hose in - any commodore/falcon will have metres of usable hose if different and your fittings are OK.

Bill

oscar

Ah cheers Craig, there's an EnZed place here even though it's not on the website map.  I'll have a look at a spare first then get one manufactured (depending on price and quality).  

Come to think of it WGB, with the big agricultural sector support in town here, there is a number of hydraulic and engineering places.  I just never thought to look into them.  thanks
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Big_Richard

hydraulic hose is not refrigerant hose. The molecular size of the the refrigerant is so small that it may actually pass thru hoses that wont ordinarily leak when pressurised with other molecularly larger substances, IE, hydraulic oil.

CraigS

Irrespective of whether refrigerant or hydraulic hose, I think the point is that these can be made up by whoever at a price considerably less than the dealer price.
[url="http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n77/Aegeanfoods/My%20Cars/"]http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n77/Aegeanfoods/My%20Cars/[/url]

Big_Richard

Quote from: CraigS on 31 October 2007, 04:23 AM
Irrespective of whether refrigerant or hydraulic hose, I think the point is that these can be made up by whoever at a price considerably less than the dealer price.

Indeed,

When i visited "david, whats his faces" heap which was supposedly "the best in australia" I noticed that it infact had all aftermarket hose sections created and joined in with the remaining OEM sections.

oscar

Yeah point taken about hydraulic hose but I too was thinking more on the lines of local shops with know how and skill to get me fitted with the right type.  The place I got the gas is primarliy an ag parts supply and the hose shops in town no doubt do a/c fittings for all sorts of machinery.

Pat, I was hoping to show this off today to you and Koan especially and report back and say I now have a "cool" car.  The cylinder feels considerably lighter  now >:( dufus I am, but once this bottle empties (not too soon I hope), I'm onto your type of gas.  ;) I'm upto at least $500 for DIY so far minus hose which may have been around $200 for pro work minus hose, but that's not the point, I'm learning heaps.  Well that's my justification and I'm sticking to it. ;D
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Big_Richard

My compressor cost me about $200 total to rebuild, inside out out - new seals everywhere, new clutch and bearing. Even stripped it and applied new high temp black gloss paint. Looks a millions bucks.

Filling the system only takes around 1.2kg of refrigerant.

I have 3 split systems to install in my temporary home, so im taking my 10kg's of R22, manifold gauges and vacuum pump with me, and going to get very busy... I love this work, when its not a job, I hated it when i was paid to do it - ITs a shit job.


koan

Quote from: Patrick Bateman on 31 October 2007, 05:30 AM

My compressor cost me about $200 total to rebuild, inside out out - new seals everywhere,


On the very subject of leaking compressors, my recent exchange unit (3 years ?) is leaking oil from rear end plate where it meets the body. Is the fix just a matter of taking off the four nuts that hold the end plate on and putting a new O-Ring ?

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

Big_Richard

Quote from: koan on 31 October 2007, 05:48 AM
Quote from: Patrick Bateman on 31 October 2007, 05:30 AM

My compressor cost me about $200 total to rebuild, inside out out - new seals everywhere,


On the very subject of leaking compressors, my recent exchange unit (3 years ?) is leaking oil from rear end plate where it meets the body. Is the fix just a matter of taking off the four nuts that hold the end plate on and putting a new O-Ring ?

koan


Indeed - if its leaking from between the end plate and the cylindrical housing, then yep, you just need to replace the O-ring. Personally I would replace the set if your going to the hassle of removing the compressor.

These GM built compressors have atrocious build quality - watch out for deep scratches on mating surfaces with seals, as they will leak. Also look out for and remove corrosion from where the seals sit. Cleanliness and perfectly smooth surfaces where seals sit are essential for a good seal.

If your running 134A with your compressor - the latest most up to date seal kit is supposedly better suited to it.

If you want to spend money, buy a new replacement compressor - these ones are hell inefficient and from memory rob the engine of around 8Kw when in use.