'80 300SD antifreeze leaking; bad hose? And what is THIS thing (novice, go easy)

Started by WrightSounds, 22 January 2013, 11:34 AM

Casey

You can also simply get a couple pairs of long-nose vice grips, and use those to clamp the hoses prior to unscrewing them, to minimize mess and coolant loss.  I have a set of vice grips with flat pivoting pieces attached to the ends specifically for hose clamping which works a treat, but any set of vice grips with long mostly-flat tips should do.

WrightSounds

Thanks for all the info Casey and Scraf! I've been reading about your reclining seat fetish :) Pretty crazy about the cassettes! Seems like the tape would just melt!!! And I think you're right that Chrysler designed the servo.

I realized the info about the coolant when I replaced the thermostat. I was too antsy to switch to the proper kind. Is the Zerex fine to use or do you highly recommend the MB brand?

Nice vise grip tip! My dad bought me a set for christmas so handy-dandy!

You guys (and this forum) are amazing. Seriously. This place makes the guitar/effect pedal forums to shame. Shame I say!!!

Casey

Quote from: Casey on 24 January 2013, 01:03 PM
You can also simply get a couple pairs of long-nose vice grips, and use those to clamp the hoses prior to unscrewing them, to minimize mess and coolant loss.  I have a set of vice grips with flat pivoting pieces attached to the ends specifically for hose clamping which works a treat, but any set of vice grips with long mostly-flat tips should do.

Actually I didn't think that through - since you're planning on replacing the hoses it will do no good to clamp them. :P  So pretty much it just boils down to how much of a mess you want to make or avoid making.

I don't know anything about Zerex.  As a Mercedes enthusiast I'd only use the MB brand myself unless I had a very compelling reason not to.  That said most of my cars have come with improper coolant and I haven't gotten around to doing this service on them yet.

Squiggle Dog

I've used ZEREX G-05 in all my Mercedes and it runs about 10 degrees cooler than the green stuff (possibly even more when you flush out years of old coolant and scale). ZEREX is fine, but if you can get the genuine Mercedes coolant, that's probably the best. ZEREX G-05 is approved by Mercedes and won't corrode aluminum parts like the green coolant can.
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

Tony66_au

The issue with Benz cooling systems is the mixture of metals used BTW as you will have a few different alloys, Brass, plastics and Iron which is why the Benz Blue coolant is important although many swear by the ZEREX G-05 as a suitable cheaper substitute.

As for leakage?

Well the unit is set high (And yes its an early version of the DuoValve but with inbuilt electronics) so if the car is cold and you dont release the radiator cap your coolant loss will be minimal and basically whats in the hoses.

Id be replacing the coolant and flushing the system or if not flushing then id drain it, make your repair and then refill with clean water, get the car back up to operating tempt checking for leaks and then go for a drive, come back and drain the system again and repeat which should remove most of the glycol coolant.

Your stuff looks very green so you may find it has turned to Gel in places but this will eventually disappear and most if not all will pass on the 2nd fresh water flush.

Don't spread this out over a few days, do it in one day and refill with correct Ph coolant.

FYI it took me 3 flushes to get rid of the green crap used in one of mine but I let it sit overnight, SO! Drain, refill, rinse and repeat.

Squiggle Dog

An independent Mercedes shop I used to know back in Washington insisted "Just put the cheapest green coolant you can get into these old Mercedes--all they are is a tractor with a body on it--they don't need anything special". This shop also liked to install the cheapest parts and fluid and told me half the things I did to my car was overkill. They even told me to never change my transmission fluid because it would cause it to not shift right. Very interesting advice...
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

WrightSounds

Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 24 January 2013, 10:23 PM
An independent Mercedes shop I used to know back in Washington insisted "Just put the cheapest green coolant you can get into these old Mercedes--all they are is a tractor with a body on it--they don't need anything special". This shop also liked to install the cheapest parts and fluid and told me half the things I did to my car was overkill. They even told me to never change my transmission fluid because it would cause it to not shift right. Very interesting advice...

Oh man that's funny!  :o

They still in business? ;)

Casey

Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 24 January 2013, 10:23 PM
An independent Mercedes shop I used to know back in Washington insisted "Just put the cheapest green coolant you can get into these old Mercedes--all they are is a tractor with a body on it--they don't need anything special". This shop also liked to install the cheapest parts and fluid and told me half the things I did to my car was overkill. They even told me to never change my transmission fluid because it would cause it to not shift right. Very interesting advice...

Even certain members of the org have in the past referred to the 300SD as a tractor of a car. :/

I've heard the "never change the transmission fluid" argument quite a lot actually - mechanics seem to think that putting new fluid in will cause all sorts of things to break and not work correctly in older vehicles.  :o

JasonP


QuoteEven certain members of the org have in the past referred to the 300SD as a tractor of a car. :/

I prefer "tank."  :)


1979 300SD
Color: 623H "Light Ivory"
1979 300SD
Color: 861H "Silver Green Metallic"
1977 280 E
Color: 606G "Maple Yellow"
-------------------------------------------

oversize

I was told through another person that this old guy never changed his oil because, "....it toughens them up"!!  LOL!   ;) ;D
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1978 6.9 #1776 (Dora)
1977 450SEL #7010 white -P
1975 450SEL #8414 gold -P

oversize

Quote from: Casey on 24 January 2013, 01:13 PM
I don't know anything about Zerex.  As a Mercedes enthusiast I'd only use the MB brand myself unless I had a very compelling reason not to.  That said most of my cars have come with improper coolant and I haven't gotten around to doing this service on them yet.

I'm the same Casey; not one of my cars had the correct coolant!  I'm curious about citric flushing and I'll have to give it a try...
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1978 6.9 #1776 (Dora)
1977 450SEL #7010 white -P
1975 450SEL #8414 gold -P

oversize

Be very careful with removal of the hoses as old ones can be damn tight and if you pull on them too much you might break the housing!  They must be twisted to ensure you don't break anything...  If there's not enough room then you might be able to remove the hoses at the other ends and take out the whole servo unit for hose removal on the bench.  Failing that if you're replacing them anyway you can cut them but be careful as you cut through as you can score the pipe that the hose seals on and it'll forever leak....
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1978 6.9 #1776 (Dora)
1977 450SEL #7010 white -P
1975 450SEL #8414 gold -P

WrightSounds

Quote from: oversize on 25 January 2013, 03:48 PM
Be very careful with removal of the hoses as old ones can be damn tight and if you pull on them too much you might break the housing!  They must be twisted to ensure you don't break anything...  If there's not enough room then you might be able to remove the hoses at the other ends and take out the whole servo unit for hose removal on the bench.  Failing that if you're replacing them anyway you can cut them but be careful as you cut through as you can score the pipe that the hose seals on and it'll forever leak....

Awesome advise oversize! Thanks a bunch. Now to compile all the great info from this thread and give it a whirl!

Casey

Quote from: oversize on 25 January 2013, 03:48 PM
Be very careful with removal of the hoses as old ones can be damn tight and if you pull on them too much you might break the housing!

This is good advice - on W123's the radiator fitting for the big hose at the top is plastic, and I've destroyed two radiators by breaking them. :/

Tony66_au

I actually have a pair of medical scissors that crank up at a 45 degree angle for this job, I use hose cutters to cut away the old hose and then cut through the hose left lengthways as I find more and more hoses crusted onto alloy housings.

I went down this track after buggering a heater core trying to remove an old hose.