News:

The ORG - Truly Independent and Unbiased!

Main Menu

'77 280SE Oil Pan

Started by Luke1, 14 January 2010, 07:05 PM

Luke1

I am in the process of replacing my oil pan and gasket, does anyone have any steps to this job?  Is it a straight forward job?

Luke 8)

koan

Quote from: Luke1 on 14 January 2010, 07:05 PM
I am in the process of replacing my oil pan and gasket, does anyone have any steps to this job?  Is it a straight forward job?

I'm sure there will be something in the library about it.

The common mistake is to over tighten things, distorting gasket and pan resulting in leaks... which is what you are probably trying to fix in the first place.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

Luke1

No leaks at all, the pan is bent, I have a new one to install.

s class

The 280SE sump is in two parts.  The upper part is the larger aluminium unit running the full length of the engine.  Below it is the so-called 'small sump' which is steel.  I presume this is what you want to change.  The small sump can be changed with the engine in situ.  Its very easy.  Just pay attention that at the front, some of the bolts are longer than the rest of them, and note which ones go where. 


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

Luke1

Thanks, that's what I was looking for.  A simple procedure.

oscar

#5
Some are longer  ??? :(  I didn't notice that. 280S mind but I'm guessing longer ones are to accomodate support brackets for some power steering pipes or emission pipes perhaps which might be attached above the sump.  Could that be true?  Mine doesn't have such pipes though.  

The only difference I noticed was new pans which are 123 suffixed use a 12mm bolt as a plug compared to the older style 14mm inhex plug used on original pans and V8s.  Found that out late in the game and had to wait for a new style plug to arrive. 1st & 2nd pic.

A word on what I did.  Drained oil from sump of course, undid all the bolts, 5 or 6mm allen can't remember, but I had difficulty accessing the rearmost bolts because of the shape of the lower crossmember.  Not sure if that's due to damage of the crossmember from ground contact or not but I couldn't use socket allens or extensions, I needed to purchase and use a long allen key with a ball end like these http://www.justtools.com.au/prod5077.htm .  

I cleaned off gasket material and removed the screen from the oil pickup and gave that a clean too.  New gasket on the pan and then went around the pan putting in the bolts loose at first then tightening opposite sides like you would do with wheel bolts.  Couldn't torque bolts due to those clearance issues mentioned so I just tightened them up tight (hope that helps) and haven't had any leaks from there after three race meets.  Didn't use any sealants either.  Don't think there's any need to unless the upper sump mating surface is scratched or gouged.

New sumps look so good, good luck with it.









1973 350SE, my first & fave

Luke1