Hi all,
I've been visiting this site,along with others, for a while now and thought it about time to register given that I now have a W116. I've been on the lookout for a W108 in particular, but came across the W116 on eBay for cheap. I couldn't resist!
Now I have the W116 in the drive way and a W108 on the way this weekend also. It's going to be crowded.
(http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k67/seesully/f9cb9028.jpg)
So the W116 is in reasonable condition. There is a slight misfire when coming off throttle, anywhere through the rev range. It has a new dizzy cap, leads and plugs but from what I can tell the leads and plugs aren't OEM spec, so I'm thinking of replacing the plugs and leads as a starting point, then having a closer look at the distributor itself.
Other than that, the odometer doesn't work, the top of the rear seats are sunburnt, has a slight tear in the drivers seat, a few bumps and scrapes and in need of trimming detail and replacement of a few switches e.t.c.
The only real major things that appear to be wrong is that someone has completely removed the sunroof motor - Very annoying but a decent challenge to get that going again.
I've also been advised that there is a leak in the rear suspension. I'm yet to get under the car to have a proper look, but hopefully it won't be too hard to fix up.
So far the site has been a great reference. I look forward to chatting with you all.
Cheers,
Chris
Welcome.....
That's a nice looking car. Its not clear in the photo, but is it dark metallic grey, or a dark olive colour?
Hi Chris, do you know if it's got d-jet or k-jet injection? '76 onwards are supposed to be k-jet but there's always the odd anomaly and I was thinking about your misfire when backing off. In my 350 d-jet I had a faulty Throttle Position Sensor that casued a slight surge then stumble when backing off. That could be your problem there, if it's a d-jet. If it's k-jet then no idea what's causing it.
As far as the odometer's concerned, if the speedo's working but odo not then it's due to a single cog that's not turning with a shaft. In the pic below it's the cog at the far right in the top row, appearing grey in this photo. I've had a mechanic fix it once in 2004, then it failed a while after, then I tried to fix mine twice since then and it failed again a year ago.
The following is the best link I've come across for odo repair. It's not for a w116 as such but when it comes to the internals of the odo it looks just like ours.
http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm
(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh72/oscaramel/03062008397Medium.jpg)
Quote from: s class on 03 May 2010, 06:34 AM
Welcome.....
That's a nice looking car. Its not clear in the photo, but is it dark metallic grey, or a dark olive colour?
It's not in bad shape at all. I actually snuck it out for a drive (under vic roads permit while it's not registered) and thoroughly enjoyed the drive.
It's a metallic dark olive colour, which at first I thought was a bit strange, but it's growing on me.
Quote from: oscar on 03 May 2010, 07:33 AM
Hi Chris, do you know if it's got d-jet or k-jet injection? '76 onwards are supposed to be k-jet but there's always the odd anomaly and I was thinking about your misfire when backing off. In my 350 d-jet I had a faulty Throttle Position Sensor that casued a slight surge then stumble when backing off. That could be your problem there, if it's a d-jet. If it's k-jet then no idea what's causing it.
As far as the odometer's concerned, if the speedo's working but odo not then it's due to a single cog that's not turning with a shaft. In the pic below it's the cog at the far right in the top row, appearing grey in this photo. I've had a mechanic fix it once in 2004, then it failed a while after, then I tried to fix mine twice since then and it failed again a year ago.
The following is the best link I've come across for odo repair. It's not for a w116 as such but when it comes to the internals of the odo it looks just like ours.
http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm
(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh72/oscaramel/03062008397Medium.jpg)
That's great info, thanks Oscar.
I'm pretty sure it's a K-Jet, but will double check. Over the last few days I've been fiddling around with it a bit. I've checked all the leads and dizzy, some of the earths and managed to close the airbox properly (it was hanging open)
After a drive today, it seemed to be going a little better, with the misfire taking place only occasionally. Is there potential that there was bad fuel in the lines due to it sitting around for so long and only been driven from a workshop into the street for the last year or so?
In any case, I will check the fuel injection system again - What is the best way to determine the type of system? I do have the original log books and manual. Perhaps this info is listed in there?
I'll also be changing plugs and leads too.
That info about the odometer is great. It looks like a fiddly job, but very necessary.
I'm really baffled about the missing sunroof motor too. The switch is in the dash, with butchered wires for the switch just hanging behind it.
It would appear that the plug for the motor is still attached in the boot, but the tube for the cable has been removed. I think I'll be making a trip to the wreckers and getting busy with removing the headlining very soon... Just as long as the W108 that's coming on the weekend doesn't distract me too much. ;)
Thanks for the replies.
Chris
Oh, one more thing. I thought the guy I bought it from said that it had the self levelling rear suspension and that it had a leak on one side. After looking in the engine bay, I couldn't see any oil reservoir or lines that would indicate as such. I could only see the AC compressor, the washer bottle, and the big white power steering bottle/pump up buy the passenger firewall.
Should I be looking for anything specifically, or does the pressure lines and reservoir only apply to models with full airbag suspension?
It's highly likely that I'm confused about the setup, so any information about how best to determine the rear suspension setup would be great.
(obviously I need to find the time to jack it up and have a good look around!)
Hi Chris, nice car - congratulations!
This link may help you on your path to odo happiness - I have the same problem and plan on diving in sometime soon. Let us know how you get on, since I may be back for tips if you get there before me...
Repair your odometer (W116) (http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm)
Cheers, Josh
To see if you've got SLS you should have a reservoir for the suspension fluid on the left hand side of the engine bay that is either one of these two (metal early version, plastic later version). Your "big white steering pump" thing sounds like that's the SLS reservoir.
Where abouts did the seller say the leak is? If it's at the rear, fluid will apear on the floor eventually depending on rate. If the fluid is disappearing from the reservoir but no trace on the ground then it's likely the SLS pump is leaking into the engine. It'll need a rear seal replaced if that's the case. The pump is at the front of the engine, top left corner of cam box when facing the engine and looks like the first pic.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/14479-3/susppump.JPG) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/oscars/suspension+pump/susppump.JPG/)
The two types of reservoirs for suspension fluid.
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9480/imgp6404medium.jpg)
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/8431/imgp6405medium.jpg)
The easiest way to tell what fuel injection you've got is to look at the air cleaner.
(carburettor)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/3509-5/IMGP1236+_Large_.JPG) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/oscars/280S/IMGP1236+_Large_.JPG/)
d-jet
(http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/4930/74798123bc53cc2.th.jpg) (http://img685.imageshack.us/i/74798123bc53cc2.jpg/)
early k-jet snorkel over the engine
(http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/3235/w11631523x3503bed4c21.th.jpg) (http://img88.imageshack.us/i/w11631523x3503bed4c21.jpg/)
late k-jet snorkel facing forward
(http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/7796/bsyr8qcwkkgrhqeokj0evmp.th.jpg) (http://img718.imageshack.us/i/bsyr8qcwkkgrhqeokj0evmp.jpg/)
Regarding the bit of misfiring and old fuel....just start mixing 98RON in and after a while you should be on pure good stuff. (so long as you get to drive it a bit of course) Even if you're storing it, mix a bit of new fuel in there and kick it over a couple times a week making sure it warms up fully before turning off. A fast drive down the highway wouldn't hurt either.
Can't suggest anything for the sunroof. Mine never had them. But one more thing about suspension. Not being a smart arse to correct you but I saw you say "air bag" and thought I'd give you some FYI for the three types of suspension that were on w116s so you'll avoid chasing parts for something you haven't got.
1 - conventional, four springs, four shocks
2 - (SLS) Self Leveling rear Suspension. Two conventional shocks and springs up front. For the rear, two springs, two struts and two nitrogen filled pressure cells known by a few names like spheres, accumulators...
3 - Full Hydropneumatic Suspension, 450SEL 6.9 only. Two struts and two spheres up front. Two struts and two spheres at the rear. Plus there's a 5th central sphere. There's no springs in this version and there are no air bag setups for w116s. Airbags were on the w109s and not sure what else.
Anyway, let's hope the w108 doesn't excite you too much and drag you away from the w116. I'm sure after you drive that thing you'll be back in the w116 in no time. ;D
Quote from: joshm on 03 May 2010, 09:03 AM
Hi Chris, nice car - congratulations!
This link may help you on your path to odo happiness - I have the same problem and plan on diving in sometime soon. Let us know how you get on, since I may be back for tips if you get there before me...
Repair your odometer (W116) (http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm)
Cheers, Josh
Thanks Josh! Double link pastage there. That's the same one as Oscar posted.
I'll be certain to let you know how it pans out. I'm thinking I might have a crack at it this weekend.
Quote from: oscar on 03 May 2010, 10:43 AM
To see if you've got SLS you should have a reservoir for the suspension fluid on the left hand side of the engine bay that is either one of these two (metal early version, plastic later version). Your "big white steering pump" thing sounds like that's the SLS reservoir....
Lots more stuff, see above for full post.
Thanks a heap Oscar.
OK, so I've found this:
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/14479-3/susppump.JPG) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/oscars/suspension+pump/susppump.JPG/)
There were no visible leaks to be seen here, so I'll rule it out as the culprit for now.
Yes, my reservoir looks like this:
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/8431/imgp6405medium.jpg)
This was the next place I looked for any leaks. I found that the hose coming out of the bottom of the reservoir was very damp with fluid and there is a large build up of greasy sludge underneath it. I'd say that the hose has perished over time and is leeching fluid out slowly.
I predict that the hose is easy enough to replace with something that can be picked up from an auto store.
The fluid though, do you have any recommendations as to what type of fluid goes into the reservoir and where it can be sourced?
Hopefully this remedies the issue. If anything, it's a great place to start.
Now to this:
(http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/4930/74798123bc53cc2.th.jpg) (http://img685.imageshack.us/i/74798123bc53cc2.jpg/)
I can confirm that I have the d-jet injection. I'm not sure if this assists in helping to diagnose my misfire issue?
The information you provided about the suspension and potential bad fuel is great - not smart arsey in any way, especially given this is my first W116.
Thanks heaps Oscar, I appreciate your input.
Chris
Man I just lost a big post on a work puter that froze. Just as well, I'm going to make this shorter.
SLS fluid. ATF not recommended but is often found in neglected cars. Use Febi, Lemfoerder or MB branded SLS fluid only. There are a couple of alternates too. The lot was recently discussed here http://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/cost-of-sls-fluid/
Replace that hose you found. It's just a low pressure supply line and like you say, you should be able to get something cut form a roll from a good auto or engineering/hydraulic shop. Just make sure it's mineral oil compatible. You might need to supply inside diameter measurement. Just use calipers on the two male pipe ends it connects to, not the hose itself. Another thing, that hose leaked for me too a few years back. I replaced it, and although the oil stopped leaking to the floor, the fluid kept disappearing. Through the help of fellow posters I found my pump's rear seal was shot and leaking oil into the crankcase. So replace that hose, top up your oil and pay close attention to the level.
A 76 d-jet. That's interesting. Whilst it's not written in stone that every 76 stamped car became k-jet there's been a few instances where the rule has been broken. No biggie. Look through Carl's thread for great reference photos and info
http://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/280-se-big-service/
As far as that misfire is concerned I'm thinking it's the TPS, throttle position sensor. The easiest test is to disconnect the TPS and try a decent run without it. If the probelm disappears, the TPS is faulty. Pull the 5 lead plug from the TPS and see how you go. I fixed my old one sort of but it soon wore out and I just bought less used ones on ebay.
Have a read here http://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/a-warm-engine-running-issue/msg31227/#msg31227
There's also a static test you can perform. Details are in the next link with a couple of vids of faulty versus good TPS.
http://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/d-jet-tps/
The TPS is circled and the lead faces downwards at an angle towards the engine
(http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/954/l1030691.th.jpg) (http://img96.imageshack.us/i/l1030691.jpg/)
In your photo below, the power steering pump, and its reservoir which is integrated into the top of the pump, is at about the 7 o'clock position relative to the distributor. It has a pressed metal cap with a wingnut or knurled thumb-nut retaining it in the centre.
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/8431/imgp6405medium.jpg)
Thanks for the replies!
Well, it's exciting times. The W116 has been put in the garage for the moment, just to keep it out of the elements. I'll be making a list of everything that I want to replace on it and going nuts with a parts order soon enough. The idea is to get it to a point that I can get it road worthy and re-registered and using it as a weekend cruiser. It's certainly a nice enough car to drive as is, but I want it to be even nicer!
I've heard that the sunroof motor can be substituted with a window motor? (same part number) if so, which window motor suits - eg, left or right/front or rear?
Once all of the niggly little issues are cleared up, I'll be organising a respray in the factory green and getting some of the carpet and trim replaced.
Oh, I discovered that the original first aid kit is still in the rear parcel shelf! That's gotta be rare.
I've also taken delivery of the W108. She sure needs some work. Someone has done some dodgy rust repairs and painted it silver, with what looks to be from spray cans you can buy from Autobarn. Oh dear.
I went on a road trip with my girlfriend to pick it up, some 300k's out of Melbourne. The car had been sitting for goodness knows how long... Was sitting on nearly flat tyres and wouldn't kick over for a while. I managed to get it going and it made it all the way back to Melbourne with minimal fuss. It hummed along on the highway pretty well, although it was not too much fun when the accelerator stuck and I had to do an emergency shut down and stop. Easy fix though. Another thing I noticed was a grinding noise coming from the rear end when going through banking corners at speed, almost like a tyre rubbing, but mechanical. I figure the rear shafts or diff might be on their way out or that the mounts have perished. I'll not know until I have a closer look.
I was surprised at how tight it felt, there were no creaks or rattles at all.
The zenith twins need refurbisment and adjustment pretty badly as it's running pretty rough and very lean.
The dash and wood work needs fixing.
The seats are in great condition - surprisingly.
The suspension is all good, it tracked well and stopped well.
The instrument panel has sen better days.
The window regulators need replacing, some windows don't go up or down.
There's rust in some of the doors and boot, I'm yet to decide whether I'll repair it or source replacement doors and boot.
Right now I'm in the process of stripping the interior and cleaning it it out (it's very, very dirty. I'll feel better about the whole thing once I've tidied that part of it up a bit and sourced whether there are any other signs of rust. From there I'll investigate the exterior, get it running properly, fix the rust, get it repainted and get the interior back in and spruced up as a final stage.
Other than that, it's straight and solid with reasonable chrome work.
It's going to be a fun project! I'm looking forward to having a mint condition W108 with the added bonus of a mint W116 sitting next to it.
Hi Chris,
Welcome to the M110 fold. I've a 1974 280 SE and spent most of last year going through it. I tidied up the interior and the went through the mechanicals. Oscar posted the link the mechanicals but I also tidied up the interior:
http://forum.w116.org/interiors-and-exteriors/280-se-interior-makeover/
Don't hesitate to ask any questions.
I really like the colour of your car, very black forest!
Regards,
Carl.
Thanks Carl!
I just had a look through your interior post. You've got a lovely car there! I look forward to getting mine close to that level.
I do have a question for you, based off the back of your bad wiring discovery. My sunroof doesn't work due to the motor being removed, but I also checked the switch in the dash just to make sure that nothing else had been tampered with. I would like to get a new swith and a new adapter, as the old one has been cut off, leaving the wires just hanging behind the dash.
It astounds me that people can be so haphazard with their approach to "fixing" things.
Do you know where I could source these parts? I dare say I could find them online if I searched hard enough...
I also need to know if I can use a window motor in place of the sunroof motor and if so, which of the four window motors will suit.
Cheers,
Chris.
OK, so I've had a win of sorts....
I've been banging on about the missing sunroof motor right?
I went about pulling off all off the head lining to see if the cable was at least still attached to the sunroof so that I could get it open to inspect wheter there was any rust e.t.c.
Lastly, I took apart the head lining at the front of the car and what did I find?? A bloody sunroof motor sitting between the sunroof itself and the rear view mirror!
Is this normal?
I confirmed that it could manually open by cranking it with an allen key and found that the sills around the roof itself were all clear of any rust.
Next I needed to find if the motor worked.
I had no joy with the switch, so jerry rigged the cables from the motor to the antenna switch.
It works! Perfectly!
Looks as though there's been some dodgy wiring work going on, so I might have to go about re-wiring it all on the weekend.
Once that's done I'll ned to go about re-installing all of the head lining, which will be annoying as I'll need to glue it all back into place. At least I'll be able to tidy up all of the surface rust that has accumulated over the years.
I'll keep you posted.
Quote from: chrismsullivan on 11 May 2010, 10:18 PM
Thanks Carl!
I just had a look through your interior post. You've got a lovely car there! I look forward to getting mine close to that level.
I do have a question for you, based off the back of your bad wiring discovery. My sunroof doesn't work due to the motor being removed, but I also checked the switch in the dash just to make sure that nothing else had been tampered with. I would like to get a new swith and a new adapter, as the old one has been cut off, leaving the wires just hanging behind the dash.
It astounds me that people can be so haphazard with their approach to "fixing" things.
Do you know where I could source these parts? I dare say I could find them online if I searched hard enough...
I also need to know if I can use a window motor in place of the sunroof motor and if so, which of the four window motors will suit.
Cheers,
Chris.
Chris,
Dunno about the sunroof, sorry.
As for W116 parts, it's hard to go past mbspares in the act, or if you use eBay, just go to ebay.com.au then search "W116 switch" and away you go, make sure you check the "International" field. Hours and hours of W116 stuff!
Thanks to Oscar, he supplied a switch I needed from his plethora of bits so you might wish to try asking here first.
Good luck,
Carl.
Oh, forgot to mention. I found some sls fluid for $15 a litre. Can't recall the name of the place off hand but will let you all know if you like.
Another update!
I've managed to rewire the sunroof switch and motor. After a bit of study, I found the right sequence to attach the wires back to the switch.
At some stage someone has directly wired the power wire to the battery, as it turns out the fuse attached to this wire next to the battery was also blown.
As far as I can ascertain, it looks as though the roof stopped working, probably due to a blown fuse, so they went the hack on the switch... ???
All of this could have been very easy to fix if I'd known about the rejigged wiring and blown fuse. But alas, simply fault diagnosis lead to removing all of the head lining.
Goodness knows why the motor is in the front of the roof instead of the boot.
I also started to diagnose the misfire/running rich problem. I pulled a plug and yes, it was black and oily, so new plugs and leads will be on the way soon.
I then did the "click" test on the TPS. This was well worth it as it was not smoothly clicking through the "20 clicks" as it should.
So, I removed it, pulled it apart and gave it a bit of a wipe down over the sensor board and the pins.
After reinstalling, the 20 clicks were smooth and very individual.
Time for a test start up.
Presto! Misfire seems to have gone! Hopefully that's all it was. Would correcting the TPS problem aid in helping the car run less rich or is that a separate problem? I haven't had a chance to drive the car after this fix.
I also pulled out the SLS reservoir to confirm that there were no hole in it.. It's all good, but the hose under it was drenched in SLS fluid and underneath that there was about an inch of grease that had accumulated. I presume this is from years and years of a leaking hose.
While it was out I replaced it with a new hose. I know the hose has got to be able to handle mineral oils, but I struggled to find one that was specific to this, so I got a bit of new fuel hose. I though that if the hose can handle fuel, it can surely handle SLS oil??
I'll be picking up some new SLS fluid either tomorrow or Saturday to test if this has cured the leaking problem.
So there you have it. It's nice to see progress on this car, sunroof is fixed, misfire is fixed and SLS is hopefully fixed.
Cheers,
Chris.
Hey Chris,
Sounds like you're making good progress there, cleaning the TPS made a big difference eh? My 450SE has a bit of a misfire, have checked plugs and leads etc, so I might try that one next before the trigger points have to come out. It's a learning curve, all good fun. Allegedly.
Cheers,
Ken
That's awsome Chris. For a while there I thought the w116 was going to get sidelined in favour of the w108, glad you've come to your senses ;D Nah, I've always wanted a w108. Beautiful looking cars, I love the front styling especially and they look so much better in the metal than a photo. I'd probably prefer a 280se with 3.5L v8 or the 3.5L 300sel w109. But that's not going to happen any time soon. Garage is full, too many things to do as is and the wallet's too thin.
Anwyay, I think fuel hose will be fine for the SLS fluid return line. BTW, what fluid is $15/L and where from. That's an excellent price.
The TPS can cause a bit of overfueling if it's sending false inputs and if it's clicking during the return-to-closed-throttle motion. When returning to closed throttle the TPS activates a fuel cut off switch which stops the injectors from injecting. Anytime you take the foot off the pedal or decelerate the injectors should stop pulsating. So if you were getting clicks when the throttle was closing then the injectors were still firing when they shouldn't have been. Whether that was the only cause of rich running....I hope so... but there's other things that could contribute from simple things like blocked air filter, yer dirty plugs and some other things I can't think of right now. It's great progress for the moment anyhow.
Great to hear you've tackled the sunroof. I've got no idea about them, never had any in my cars/wrecks so don't know about them nor window motor compatability.
Ken, thanks for the post. I'd say yes to having a look at the TPS before the trigger points.
Turn your ignition on but don't start the car, go to the front and manually activate the accelerator mechanism. You should hear 20 individual clicks when putting the throttle on and none on return. If it sounds all jumbled then that might be one of your problems.
Oscar, thanks again for your post.
The W108 was always going to be a long term project, so it's currently in the garage slowly getting stripped. I too would love a 3.5 or a 109 one day, along with a 190SL. I'll have them
all one day. Oh yes, I'll have them all.
The 116 on the other hand was a good cheap find that I'm growing to love more every day. I always intended to fix it up a bit, register it and then figure out what to do with it. Given that the 108 os going to be such a long project, the 116 is going to stay.
I'm happy with the progress so far. You're spot on though, the TPS was clocking on and off throttle. I'm glad to hear that this might remedy the car from running rich.
I'm sure the new plugs and an oil change will help too. As far as I can tell from the run it had yesterday, it's runnin nowhere near as lean.
SLS fluid. It's from a place called German Prestige. It's on Geelong Road in Laverton. The fluid itself, don't know what it's called but it's got German writing all over it, has a white bottle and has the mw4 code or something like that. I'm not at home right now so I'm guessing the code from my failing memory. I ended up getting 3 litres for $40.
Quote from: chrismsullivan on 14 May 2010, 05:42 PM
SLS fluid. It's from a place called German Prestige. It's on Geelong Road in Laverton. The fluid itself, don't know what it's called but it's got German writing all over it, has a white bottle and has the mw4 code or something like that. I'm not at home right now so I'm guessing the code from my failing memory. I ended up getting 3 litres for $40.
Thanks for that Chris, that's fantastic. I've got a few litres of lemfoerder or Febi oil on hand but will source some of this stuff out next time I'm in Vic.
Regarding general tuning and running rich. Once you get the plugs etc etc sorted it'd be worth having the tailpipe CO measured and if need be, the CO knob adjusted on the ECU in case it's been tampered with in the past. That can account for some of the rich running. It's a finnicky thing tuning a d-jet so far as once you adjust one thing it affects other things which need tiny readjustments but no biggie. You get used to it and find a spot you're happy with. But issues reappear over time. You just have to remember what steps you went through to remedy it. Eg, my TPS was fine for a while but soon it was misbehaving again. I had to replace with one that had much less use. Apart from the contacts and wipes wearing and pitting, the two shafts (inner and outer) have to be allowed to move independantly otherwise that cut-off switch doesn't work or works intermittently. And despite the two shafts slightly contacting each other, I found introducing a liquid lube will eventually make them less independant and the cut off switch falter again. It should be left dry. I should've mentioned that before you did the clean in case you did oil it :-\ .
Just arrived home and checked the brand of the fluid. Yep, it's Febi ZH-M. I've not seen any leaks as yet, so hopefully it's all fixed. Although I did noticed that once I'd topped up the reservoir that there didn't seem to be much flow going through the reservoir. Does it only activate when there's load on the rear or when it's driving?
Once I've done the oil, the plugs, the seat belts and the odometer I'll be taking it in for a RWC and will get the CO reading done then. Thanks fo the tips on that one.
Regarding the TPS. when I pulled it apart I immediately thought that oiling it would not be a good idea given the circuit boatrd in there. So it's all good, I left it nice and dry.
I'll be checking the operation of the TPS pretty regularly from now on, so if it stuffs up again I'll be on the hunt for one in better condition.
Hey guys...
I've had a busy few weeks and haven't had a chance to do much to the car, but got stuck into it yesterday.
I've changed the oil, and put in some new plugs. Easy....
Next I thought I'd have a crack at fixing the broken odometer. This was a bit of a mission! After finally getting the instrument cluster out, I went about dismantling the speedo, that was easy enough I suppose, but I'm fairly mechanically minded so it might be more difficult than I'm leading on.
I've read the write up on the fix for the the spindle spinning around but not biting on the cog that actually turns the odometer. I wasn't convinced that a bit of sandpaper and locktite was going to be permanent enough, so I created some ridges on the end of the spindle, with the idea that I'll be able to press fit the spindle into the cog and effectively locking it in place for good.
It was quite difficult reinserting the spindle back into place, but it paid off. I don't think that will be failing again anytime soon.
While the instrument cluster was out I took the opportunity to replace all of the dash and instrument lights given that most of them were blown.
All in all, it was a pretty productive day.... All until I fired her up to ensure that the gauges were all working after removal of the instrument panel.
I noticed that there was quite a bit of fluid dripping from the engine bay onto the ground. The source was the SLS pump on the front of the engine block. Balls. I guess it was just time for it to give way.
I whipped out the allen key and pulled the front of the pump off and found that the seal was cactus. It looked as though some red coloured sealant paste had been used in the past and it had perished. The black oring in there looked OK though.
My question, is there a specific seal or sealent paste I should use in order to plug this leak?
Cheers,
Chris
Get a seal kit from MB Spares to rebuild the pump. No point in trying to use a sealant when the full kit of seals costs (I seem to remember from last year) $45. If you have the pump apart why bodge it and risk having to do it again.
Apart from that, I have enjoyed reading your thread and the progress on your car. I am currently without a W116 but reading this has made me want to get another.
Chris M.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the tip with obtaining a kit from MBSpares. It's good to know that there is actually a kit and I didn't have to do a bodgy fix.
I'll follow it up with them.
Glad you're enjoying the thread.
Just confirmed with MBSpares via email that the SLS seal kit is $99. Still to speak to them, so don't know if that includes postage or not.
Chris.
Congrats on the odometer, it's a prick of a job, especially if a fix like mine doesn't work. Knurling the spindle I've thought would be the best way to go and you've done something similar. The ridges should hold that sucker on for good hopefully.
About the pump, there's a few good threads on rebuilding them so have a search but check out koan's gallery pics on a pump stripdown. I've only resealed one pump but neglected a rear casing seal which I never knew existed until koan's stripdown.
http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/koan/suspension_pump/1
Thanks Oscar. Yep, the odeometer was a prick of a job. I'm dying to actually go out and drive the car to ensure that the odemeter is working properly. The leaking SLS pump put an end to that!
So far I've only take the front of the pump off the front of the block and haven't investigated removing the whole pump as yet.
Is it a difficult task or is it just bolted on there?
Cheers,
Chris
Nah not difficult at all especially on the 280 because it's so easy to get at.
Some things to watch out for anyone;
- Like any allen bolts, these can be rounded if not treated with care and the correct allen size used (5mm I think).
- Use a flare wrench to undo the supply line if possible otherwise it can distort.
- Note there's two copper washers for the high pressure outlet, one either side of the banjo fitting.
- Lastly, when you pull the pump from the engine you should keep an eye out for a round coupling pictured below above the two pumps. It was only by chance I found mine on the floor at a time when I didn't know they existed.
If you've taken the front cover off you've probably noticed that of the 6 allen bolts, 2 hold the front cover on and 4 hold the body of the pump to the engine. But those 4 longer bolts also hold the cover on so I'm assuming the only thing holding your pump to the engine at the moment is the adhesion of the gasket. Before removing the lines I'd put the cover back on and secure the long bolts again otherwise the pump will pry off the engine the moment you try to undo one of the lines making them really difficult to undo.
(http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/2457/imgp0590mediumpv9.jpg)
Awesome.. That's great information. Thanks Oscar.
Finally pulled the pump apart this afternoon. Man, it's a bitch trying to get the bit in the middle out! I think I prefered messing around with the odometer!
I couldn't see that coupling part you mentioned above though Oscar??
Damn. It's not the first time I've heard of the coupling missing. The good news is the tangs on the engine side can line up against the tangs on the pump so it'll still work. However, I've got two pumps still attached to wrecks and there's hopefully a good chance one of them at least has this coupling. If so I'll PM you for an address and send it down to you.
That's really kind of you Oscar. Much appreciated!
Talk about learning something new everyday - I've mislead you on the coupling so far as the m110 coupling is different than the V8's.
The drive side's tangs are located further outwards which makes me think your pump shouldn't be working without a coupling unless the tangs only just touch but I doubt they can. I dunno, they must do otherwise you wouldn't have that SLS leak when the engine's running.
Both the 75 280S and 77 280se had this coupling so I would assume a d-jet 280 is supposed to have this one too, I hope.
Just double check the engine side Chris and see what you got or what shape you reckon the coupling should be. I haven't got a spare of the V8 type, just the type below.
(http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/3686/03062010580medium.th.jpg) (http://img535.imageshack.us/i/03062010580medium.jpg/)(http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/549/03062010581medium.th.jpg) (http://img72.imageshack.us/i/03062010581medium.jpg/)
Thanks for that Oscar.
I can confirm that I have the coupling that you've pictured.
Can you confirm whether there is any other coupling missing or if it's looking like it's all complete.
Cheers,
Chris
Cool! That's all it is, just that lump of metal.
Great! That's good news. All I need to do now is pull my finger out and order the seal kit from MBSpares...
Quote from: chrismsullivan on 03 June 2010, 04:27 AM
Great! That's good news. All I need to do now is pull my finger out and order the seal kit from MBSpares...
Do you know if the MBSpares seal kit has the two high pressure oil rings? The kit from M-B dealers doesn't.
They are not your bog standard hardware store O-rings but high pressure NBR-90 material O-rings.
A tip to get the piston block back in (and out but too late for that) is to heat alloy case in boiling water to expand it a bit. Also note that the pins that hold the reaction valve on need to be positioned away from the the outlet hole.
koan
Koan, not sure mate. I'm going to try to ring them today, so will ask and let you know.
Yep, I used the boiling water trick to get the piston out.. It was a little tight still, but eventually popped out after much wiggling around.
Pins? Reaction Valve? I have probably already done this, but don't know the specific names for these things..
Cheers,
Chris
Quote from: koan on 03 June 2010, 04:28 PM
Do you know if the MBSpares seal kit has the two high pressure oil rings? The kit from M-B dealers doesn't.
A few years back they did. I mistakenly put the second ring in the front cover because I didn't know where it went ::) . Still worked though. Next time I tried to order a kit they didn't have any but could make a kit up from individual bits. I later bought another kit from autohaus under a w126 suspension section but it didn't have that big rear O ring. It's just a 3 piece kit - rear seal, gasket and one large o-ring for under $20AUD
Quote from: chrismsullivan on 03 June 2010, 08:12 PM
Pins? Reaction Valve? I have probably already done this, but don't know the specific names for these things..
Probably should have called it reaction band, the band that wraps round the piston block covering the holes in the ends of the bores forming a valve. Two pins hold the band to the block.
koan
Righto. I know what you're talking about. I've not taken the band off. Yet. Do I need to?
Quote from: chrismsullivan on 04 June 2010, 05:39 PM
Righto. I know what you're talking about. I've not taken the band off. Yet. Do I need to?
No, nor do you need to remove the pistons but if you do (accidentally or otherwise) try and get them back in the bores that came out of.
koan
Koan, I had a closer look at the piston and the reaction band, then had a look at your photo below:
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22543-1/08_IMG_1714.JPG)
It would seem that my piston block thing doesn't have any pins holding the band in place. I'd say that someone has tried to service it in the past but forgotten to reinsert the pins.
Should I find a replacement set of pins or will it operate without the retaining pins?
Also, the 4 pistons with the springs attached fell out. I have no idea which bore they are supposed to go back into... Woops.
Not sure about the pins, suppose the danger is the band creeping round till the gap is over a delivery hole. Doubt you will find new pins but they wouldn't be too hard to fabricate. Very similar in appearance to a flat head nail, pick a diameter that is a good but free fit in the hole and trim the head down with a file.
In one of suspension pump pics there's a shot of the block, band and pins apart.
I think the pistons are selected for a best fit in the bores so we will see if it matters...
koan
Thanks Koan. Yeah, I'll see what I can do about fabricating some new pins.
Just spoke with Murray at MBSpares and ordered the kit. He confirmed that it comes with high pressure o-rings.
Guys, how on earth do I get this bit out???
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22571-1/15_IMG_1769.JPG)
Pretty much like that as shown above, with a screw driver, being careful not to gouge or mark the hole's bore. However, the first time I did one I picked the seal out with needle nose pliers and small screwdrivers only to find, or rather not realising, I'd left the metal outer casing of the seal in the bore. From memory I then inverted the pump body and used the screwdriver and hammer to knock the seal out. They're very stubborn.
This particular seal below was an early or alternative version and was a combination of two individual single lip seals with two individual metal casings back to back. New ones should be a double lip seal with only one metal casing as shown in the third pic of one of sclass' strip downs. The seal is on the bottom left which is the best pic of one I could find. If you saw a side on pic of one the profile would be more obvious but for the life of me I can't remember if the metal casing end goes into the bore first or the other way round. Anyone ??? I'm assuming the metal casing faces the rear. s class' pic also shows how clear the bore should be when all parts of the seal is removed compared to mine which still shows the metal casing in situ.
(http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/1900/hydro5mediumqh6.jpg)
(http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2397/hydro6mediumcb2.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/14422-3/6point9_suspension_18Sep07d.jpg)
Great, thanks Oscar...
I'll wait until the seal kit arrives and then go about trying to remove it with minimal damage.
If you look at that last pic oscar posted, showing one of my pumps, just above the bronze bushing, at the 12 o clock position is an oil way. This would be obstructed if the seal was inserted with the metal side first. I therefore concluded that the metal ring must be towards the rear of the pump, ie upwards in this pic.
Quote from: s class on 08 June 2010, 07:44 AM
This would be obstructed if the seal was inserted with the metal side first.
I've always put the seal in metal side first, pretty sure that's the way I've always found them (see first pic).
If the seal is positioned depth wise so the metal edge is flush with the back of the pump there is sufficient clearance for the oil feed hole.
The seal being double lipped handles pressure on either side unlike a normal seal so a reversed seal should be OK.
koan
Quote from: koan on 08 June 2010, 04:14 PM
I've always put the seal in metal side first, pretty sure that's the way I've always found them (see first pic).
If the seal is positioned depth wise so the metal edge is flush with the back of the pump there is sufficient clearance for the oil feed hole.
Yes, that would work too I imagine. The double lipped seal looks to have equal sealing properties in each direction.
Thanks for the banter guys. Love it!
Firstly, I can confirm that the double lipped seal you're talking about was inserted into my pump with the metal ring facing upwards, as in lined up flush with the rear of the pump.
MY SLS seal kit arrived today. In the pic below you can see the rear of the pump on the bottom left, with the old gasket still attached. Just above that you can see the new gasket, which is considerably different to the old one. The new one lines up with the mounting holes, but doesn't cover the recesses on the front of the engine mount as the old one did. Should I just use the old gasket or do you think it'll be OK to strip it off and use the new one? On that note, the new one doesn't seem as robust as the old one, it's esentially just a piece of thin cardboard, or thick paper if you like.
Next in this pic you can see the new o-ring and double lipped seal on the top right. I know where these go, so it's all good.
On the bottom left are 3 more o-rings that came in the kit. They don't seem to fit anywhere that I can see would be useful. Are they just spares for a different car or application?
(http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k67/seesully/Picture299.jpg)
Next I tackled the job of fabricating new pins for the reaction band. In the image below you can see the new pin I made centre middle of the shot and the head of a nail that I'd cut off above it. Kind of a before and after for you.
It required a fair amount of trimming and filing, but it's a good fit. not bad for $3.50 that the packet of nails cost me. I doubt genuine parts would cost less or a metal fabricator could do a better job for less.
(http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k67/seesully/Picture298.jpg)
Oh balls...
Just noticed this:
(http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k67/seesully/Picture.jpg)
The plastic band that sits around the main piston has cracked and can come off. It does sit quite nicely in its mount and when the piston is back in place it's so tight in there that I seriously doubt that it will come off.
It also looks as though this isn't any kind of seal.
Do you thin it will be OK to leave it on there when re-installing it all, do you think I should remove it altogether and run it without the plastic band?
The only real fix is to get a new piston with a band that's not broken.
Cheers,
Chris
One of the rings goes into the base of the outer casing as shown in these two koan pics. This is the one I didn't realise existed coz I didn't take out the piston block.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22569-3/14_IMG_1752.JPG) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/koan/suspension_pump/14_IMG_1752.JPG/)(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22557-3/11_IMG_1738.JPG) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/koan/suspension_pump/11_IMG_1738.JPG/)
That leaves one largeish thin ring and the medium sized fat one which I can't remember if it was in my kit. Does one of those rings in the kit replace that cracked plastic one? Is there one there with a rectangular profile?
Nice work on the pins too BTW.
Great, that covers one of the extra o-rings.
There isn't another one that has a rectangular profile to replace the cracked plastic one. I'll have to have a dig around and see if there are any other locations taht will accomodate for the remaining ones. It's a mystery, but I'll let you know if I find anything.
The pins.. they were a bit of effort to fabricate, but I'm glad I did it.
Any thoughts on my gasket question above??
Cheers,
Chris
Completely missed that sorry. Just went out to the shed to check the wrecks and neither had a gasket on the rear of the pump nor on the cam housing. The red 280S in particular was in really good nic when I got it in 2006. No leaks from anything and the SLS was working before I started dismantling it. The square gasket in your picture definitely goes on the V8 but I'm wondering now if the m110 of the 280 doesn't need this gasket at all. If there is no m110 specific gasket your options would be to use that square one anyway, cut out something that would suit, use a sealant of some kind from loctite or permatex like hymolar or just clean the mating surfaces and forget about using anything. If it were me I'd be tempted to use the square gasket or use hymolar but I'd be keen to hear what others think or what other have used on the m110.
Thanks Oscar. That all makes sense.
When I removed the pump, that rear of the pump was just sitting there with no evidence of any sealant being used. I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't specifically require one. The existing gasket that is still attached to the back of the pump isn't in bad cindition, so I'm wondering if I should just use this again, with a combination of a sealant.
With the layout that the rear of pump bolts onto, using the square gasket would be almost useless? Maybe a combination of both gaskets can be used?
So there is a gasket on the back already. I can see it now on your photo now that you mention it and it does look pretty good and dry. I'd probably reuse that rear gasket as is and don't bother put anything else with it. There's no pressure there and if sls fluid works past the new seal one day it'll flow back into the engine via the cam housing. Besides, although it's ideal to replace gaskets, this one is just like cam cover gaskets, I'm not going to replace them every time I take the covers off when I play with valves unless they're damaged.
FWIW I found that particular gasket in the head gasket set on autohaus.Link (http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=1lbzxe55a5qdho55ggqaerbp&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193420@280SE&year=1980&cid=20@Engine%20Parts,%20Seals%20%26%20Gaskets&gid=5416@Cylinder%20Head%20Gasket%20Set). I would guess it's available by itself from a dealer or others. Note the picture below where the pump gasket is next to the square gasket. I'd assume the square gasket is for the blanking plate of non sls equipped cars which is square. Note the three triangular gaskets at the bottom. The three other camshaft ends are covered by triangular plates, one in the front and two at the rear.
(http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/7238/110010028028d4ef2.jpg) (http://img25.imageshack.us/i/110010028028d4ef2.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
Awesome, thanks again Oscar. I'll endeavour to piece it all back together this afternoon and let you know of the outcome.
I've decided that the two larger o-rings that we were discussing can be used - Once for the rear seal on the back of the pump as you highlighted and the other can be used to replace the cracked plastic band.
It's not a tight fit, but sits in the space nicely and should be able to move once the piston is re-inserted into the housing.
Thoughts?
I'm not real sure what to do about that plastic band. Although I'm one for shortcuts, make do etc, I'd rather see what some others recommend coz I don't know what that band does.
One more thing, part number to that gasket for the rear of the pump is 1100160780. Link (http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=1lbzxe55a5qdho55ggqaerbp&pn=W0133-1714859,)
Quote from: chrismsullivan on 09 June 2010, 05:23 AM
The plastic band that sits around the main piston has cracked and can come off.
That started life as an o-ring. It ends up flat (and brittle) as does the one in the base of the pump. The two o-rings in the kit are the replacements.
No idea what the remaining thick ring is for.
koan
Help!
the pump is all back together with no problems. It seals nicely and ther eare no blockages.
Upon mounting to the engine and fastening the hoses, it does nothing... It doesn't seem to be sucking.
I'm not sure, but it may be worthwhile opening the bleed valve on the level control valve up the back of the car, attaching a piece of clear tubing and directing it into a container. See what happens if you run the engine then.
Caution: If your SLS springs are weak, the car could sink down abruptly.
Tim
Not disagreeing with TJ at all but I reckon the pump just needs priming. Plus I'll state the obvious, you did put the coupling in too didn't you?
To prime the pump I'd take off the supply pipe from the pump and drizzle oil into the top, crank the engine over but don't start it, (remove coil lead to make sure it doesn't start). It wont need much oil. Do that a few times and reconnect the supply line. It should start sucking through not long after the engine starts.
How did you go with the seals?
Thanks guys.
I thought about the valve at the back but thought that it was something else as while the car was running with the supply line to the rear disconnected there was still no fluid flowing through.
I'll try priming it and let you know.
No probs with the seal, although the new o-ring on the main piston got caught on the lip of the pump rear when I re-inserted it and a little bit sheared off the edge of the ring. Oops!
If priming fails, I'll try the valve at the rear.
I connected the supply line to the pump and drizzled fluid into the top hole that feeds the lines to the rear. Disconnected the lead on the dizzy, cranked it, topped it up, cranked it again and repeated a further two times.
From there I reconnected the dizzy and wrapped some rags underneath the pump in preparation for collecting fluid pumping through.
Fired her up and success! the pump is flowing! Reconnected the rear supply line, fired it up, checked that it's flowing back into the reservoir andit was all good.
I then did the obligitory bouncing on the towbar check and the rear end is considerably firmer. Moreso than it was before. So, I guess it's all working. Best of all, no leaks tha tI could spot. I'll have to have a closer look during daylight.
Guys, thanks so much for your assistance. I'd be toiling away for months if it wasn't for your helpful hints.
Next on the list is to replace the front belts, check the disks for thickness and the pads and try to patch up a rust hole that's starting to form on the front drivers jack point and in the wheel well in the boot.
From there, she should be ready for a RWC check.
Once she's road legal again I'll be doing some serious cosmetic work, with a respray and further interior trim detailing.
Thanks again.
Chris.
Great news Chris. 8)
OK... We've takena backwards step here. I went out this morning to check for leaks during the daylight. There is still a leak coming from the front cover of the pump. It's just dripping out from the bottom of the pump.
It has the new o-ring in there, so I'm a little stumped as to what to try next to seal this bloody pump up.
Quote from: chrismsullivan on 10 June 2010, 08:38 PM
OK... We've takena backwards step here. I went out this morning to check for leaks during the daylight. There is still a leak coming from the front cover of the pump. It's just dripping out from the bottom of the pump.
Could be the shaved o-ring. I would have been surprised if it didn't leak, those two o-rings are at the delivery pressure of the pump, unlike the cover o-ring and rear seal which aren't under pressure.
koan
Thanks Koan..
Righto, I'll rip it apart, again, and try to find a replacement o-ring for the one that was damaged. Hopefully that will remedy the issue.
OK, it looks as though I've fixed the leak.
I found a replacement O-Ring, but the bloody thing snapped on me!
So, I went for a backyard fix approach. I removed the good o-ring from the bottom of the pump housing and replaced it with the one that had been damaged when reinstalling the pistion into the housing previous and then placed the good one on the piston.
It all went back together well and there are no apparent leaks.
My question is this... I thought that there was no real reason why the bottom oring should allow fluid to escape back into the engine as there is that new double tipped seal in there to preven such a thing happening.
What are your thoughts??
Quote from: chrismsullivan on 14 June 2010, 10:06 PM
My question is this... I thought that there was no real reason why the bottom oring should allow fluid to escape back into the engine as there is that new double tipped seal in there to preven such a thing happening.
The shaft seal is not under pressure, its on the suction side of the pump. When the o-ring at the back fails the seal gets output pressure and can't hold it back.
koan
Thanks Koan. So you're telling me that it's likely to be leaking back into the engine?
Quote from: chrismsullivan on 15 June 2010, 12:36 AM
Thanks Koan. So you're telling me that it's likely to be leaking back into the engine?
If the suspension fluid is disappearing and you can't see it and the engine oil level is rising it is.
koan
OK. Thanks. I'll have to give it a good run to determine this. Thanks for the tip.
Hey guys! I hope you're all well.
I've not been on here in a while, simply because I've not been doing too much to the car lately. There's still a hefty "to do" list, but it's just a matter of finding the time.
One thing that I would like to address is battery drain. It seems to be drawing power out of the battery when switched off and I can't figure out why. One of my batteries was completely drained after about a week and a half so I pulled the brand new one out of the W108 in the interim.
I've hooked up the multimeter to the battery and it sits at an even 12v when switched off and jumps up to 13/14v at idle, so it's clear that the alternator is delivering charge to the battery when running.
Any ideas as to what might be causing the drain?
Cheers,
Chris
Quote from: chrismsullivan on 14 September 2010, 09:35 PM
Any ideas as to what might be causing the drain?
I'd say it's the dash clock. My 280S without EFI bits to run nor fancy ignition will go dead over time due to the dash clock.
If your clock doesn't work anyway then I got no idea.
Yep, the dash clock works. I wouldn't have thought that it would cause such a drain on the battery though!
In any case, I've taken to disconnecting the battery when it's not in use and will purchase a trickle charger over the weekend.
With the car off, connect your multimeter in ammeter mode in series between the battery + terminal and the cable that normally connects to the battery + terminal. Note the current draw. Now remove and replace the fuses one at a time, and see which one affects the current draw. That will tell you where the current is going.
Great suggestion. I'll do that!
Cheers,
Chris
Quote from: oscar on 03 May 2010, 07:33 AM
The following is the best link I've come across for odo repair. It's not for a w116 as such but when it comes to the internals of the odo it looks just like ours.
http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm
Excellent.... I have this issue too with all my gauges
Quote from: Necrosis on 15 September 2010, 12:26 PM
Quote from: oscar on 03 May 2010, 07:33 AM
The following is the best link I've come across for odo repair. It's not for a w116 as such but when it comes to the internals of the odo it looks just like ours.
http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm
Excellent.... I have this issue too with all my gauges
Necrosis, I did my odo repair a little differently to the one suggested in the link, although the link was very helpful in figuring out how to get to the repair I completed. Below is a copy and past from an earlier post about my odo repair:
"Next I thought I'd have a crack at fixing the broken odometer. This was a bit of a mission! After finally getting the instrument cluster out, I went about dismantling the speedo, that was easy enough I suppose, but I'm fairly mechanically minded so it might be more difficult than I'm leading on.
I've read the write up on the fix for the the spindle spinning around but not biting on the cog that actually turns the odometer. I wasn't convinced that a bit of sandpaper and locktite was going to be permanent enough, so I created some ridges on the end of the spindle, with the idea that I'll be able to press fit the spindle into the cog and effectively locking it in place for good.
It was quite difficult reinserting the spindle back into place, but it paid off. I don't think that will be failing again anytime soon."I was right, the odo repair is holding up well - so far.. only time and more trips out will tell the full story. The added bonus in doing this repair is that it also fixed the speedo needle from bouncing around when slowing down.
Hi again guys.
The 280 died and I'm stumped as to why. It's always run very well and very smoothly. This morning I replaced a charged up battery and had it idling in park. It had been running for about 5 minutes and showed no signs of distress.
All of a sudden it just stopped dead and will not start again. I've not tried cranking it over more than a few times, simply because I can't hear the fuel pump priming as usual.
Is it possible that the fuel pump has just up and died on me?
Checked fuses and they are all OK.
Point me in the right direction here fellas.
Cheers,
Chris
All fixed.
There was a loose connection on the + terminal at the battery. Weird though as it was still supplying power to all of the AUX accessories, just not to the fuel pump.