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'76 280SE

Started by chrismsullivan, 02 May 2010, 10:10 PM

koan

Quote from: chrismsullivan on 15 June 2010, 12:36 AM
Thanks Koan. So you're telling me that it's likely to be leaking back into the engine?

If the suspension fluid is disappearing and you can't see it and the engine oil level is rising it is.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

chrismsullivan

OK. Thanks. I'll have to give it a good run to determine this. Thanks for the tip.

chrismsullivan

Hey guys! I hope you're all well.

I've not been on here in a while, simply because I've not been doing too much to the car lately. There's still a hefty "to do" list, but it's just a matter of finding the time.

One thing that I would like to address is battery drain. It seems to be drawing power out of the battery when switched off and I can't figure out why. One of my batteries was completely drained after about a week and a half so I pulled the brand new one out of the W108 in the interim.
I've hooked up the multimeter to the battery and it sits at an even 12v when switched off and jumps up to 13/14v at idle, so it's clear that the alternator is delivering charge to the battery when running.

Any ideas as to what might be causing the drain?

Cheers,
Chris

oscar

Quote from: chrismsullivan on 14 September 2010, 09:35 PM
Any ideas as to what might be causing the drain?

I'd say it's the dash clock. My 280S without EFI bits to run nor fancy ignition will go dead over time due to the dash clock. 

If your clock doesn't work anyway then I got no idea.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

chrismsullivan

Yep, the dash clock works. I wouldn't have thought that it would cause such a drain on the battery though!

In any case, I've taken to disconnecting the battery when it's not in use and will purchase a trickle charger over the weekend.

s class

With the car off, connect your multimeter in ammeter mode in series between the battery + terminal and the cable that normally connects to the battery + terminal.  Note the current draw.  Now remove and replace the fuses one at a time, and see which one affects the current draw.  That will tell you where the current is going. 


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

chrismsullivan

Great suggestion. I'll do that!

Cheers,
Chris

Necrosis

Quote from: oscar on 03 May 2010, 07:33 AM
The following is the best link I've come across for odo repair.  It's not for a w116 as such but when it comes to the internals of the odo it looks just like ours.
http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm


Excellent.... I have this issue too with all my gauges

chrismsullivan

Quote from: Necrosis on 15 September 2010, 12:26 PM
Quote from: oscar on 03 May 2010, 07:33 AM
The following is the best link I've come across for odo repair.  It's not for a w116 as such but when it comes to the internals of the odo it looks just like ours.
http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm


Excellent.... I have this issue too with all my gauges

Necrosis, I did my odo repair a little differently to the one suggested in the link, although the link was very helpful in figuring out how to get to the repair I completed. Below is a copy and past from an earlier post about my odo repair:

"Next I thought I'd have a crack at fixing the broken odometer. This was a bit of a mission! After finally getting the instrument cluster out, I went about dismantling the speedo, that was easy enough I suppose, but I'm fairly mechanically minded so it might be more difficult than I'm leading on.
I've read the write up on the fix for the the spindle spinning around but not biting on the cog that actually turns the odometer. I wasn't convinced that a bit of sandpaper and locktite was going to be permanent enough, so I created some ridges on the end of the spindle, with the idea that I'll be able to press fit the spindle into the cog and effectively locking it in place for good.
It was quite difficult reinserting the spindle back into place, but it paid off. I don't think that will be failing again anytime soon."


I was right, the odo repair is holding up well - so far.. only time and more trips out will tell the full story. The added bonus in doing this repair is that it also fixed the speedo needle from bouncing around when slowing down.

chrismsullivan

Hi again guys.

The 280 died and I'm stumped as to why. It's always run very well and very smoothly. This morning I replaced a charged up battery and had it idling in park. It had been running for about 5 minutes and showed no signs of distress.
All of a sudden it just stopped dead and will not start again. I've not tried cranking it over more than a few times, simply because I can't hear the fuel pump priming as usual.

Is it possible that the fuel pump has just up and died on me?

Checked fuses and they are all OK.

Point me in the right direction here fellas.

Cheers,
Chris

chrismsullivan

All fixed.

There was a loose connection on the + terminal at the battery. Weird though as it was still supplying power to all of the AUX accessories, just not to the fuel pump.