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'73 450SE Teardown

Started by Casey, 26 October 2012, 10:32 AM

Casey

I'm looking at http://handbook.w116.org/Engine/107/M117_45/01-030.pdf and have the car lifted up but can't locate the drain plugs for the coolant. Can somebody give me some pointers about how to locate them?

ptashek

Quote from: Casey on 26 October 2012, 10:32 AM
I'm looking at http://handbook.w116.org/Engine/107/M117_45/01-030.pdf and have the car lifted up but can't locate the drain plugs for the coolant. Can somebody give me some pointers about how to locate them?

If you are not flushing/de-greasing/de-calcifying  the system, just replacing coolant, I'm not sure it it's worth the gymnastics. I've drained whatever I could through the radiator plug, filled-up with ordinary water, drained again, and filled-up with new coolant mix. My M117 runs at a nice and constant 80*C (~176*F) even in the worst traffic jam.

p.s.: AFAIR the plugs are underneath where the engine mounts to the chassis on both sides.
1993 "Pearl Blue" W124 280TE
1988 "Arctic White" W124 200T
1979 "Icon Gold" W116 450SE

oversize

Pull the thermostat and heater hoses.  Top and bottom rad hoses too.  Using highish pressure water and compressed air you can use different flow techniques to get out the vast majority of the gunk.  It's nice to use the block drains, but I'm sure they'll be very hard to get at.
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1978 6.9 #1776 (Dora)
1977 450SEL #7010 white -P
1975 450SEL #8414 gold -P

Casey

#3
Quote from: ptashek on 26 October 2012, 03:51 PM
If you are not flushing/de-greasing/de-calcifying  the system, just replacing coolant, I'm not sure it it's worth the gymnastics.

I'm pulling the engine - stripping the car entirely down so I can get the rusty chassis out of my garage.














TJ 450

The drain plugs are on a flat area just near the engine mount arms, facing downwards.

It's much easier to remove them when the engine has been removed from the car in my opinion.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Casey

#5
Didn't get to messing with the engine at all yesterday; instead started working on stripping down the rest of the car.  After I finish pulling all the door parts and doors, I'll move on to decluttering the engine bay.  I've been fully-stripping down the doors, pulling out the glass, rubber, trim, regulators, handles, latching mechanisms, checks, and lock parts.  I'm even carefully removing the thin chrome trim that goes around the windows (mainly for practice as it's not that great).  Then take the door off (sadly all are rusty), and save the hinges. Waste not want not! :P

I like a lot of things about the earlier model cars; and some things are already changed in 1974 compared to 1973.  For instance, a lot of metal parts on top of the engine under the air filter housing were replaced with rubber in 1974.  Any rubber inevitably gets brittle and needs replaced in time.  I also discovered that instead of 2 joined rubber trim pieces behind the bumper, there's instead a single black metal trim piece that serves the same purpose.  All of the early (up to '76) cars seem to use metal instead of chrome-painted plastic for the interior trim pieces on the doors and other places.  Here's another something unique I discovered today - on later cars whenever I pull the painted metal piece on the A-pillar, there's usually broken clips underneath, especially the bottom clip which is different and can't as easily be replaced without buying a new one.  Well, in 1973, they used metal instead:



End of the day:




Apparently Frank was the last person to work on the passenger door.  Poor job he did, the window won't roll down past 2/3 of the way up:



Way easier to see what's going on without a pesky dash in the way.  I'm learning lots and lots about W116's:



More rust holes were hidden under the windshield gaskets.  These pictures from the rear.  The gaskets were both fairly new, along with all the door seals!  This is why you need to use a proper sealant as well, not just the rubber gasket (which was later caulked up with some silicon which was non-effective).  Also, check that your gas filler drain hole is clear - it's really easy to push a wire through - you'll regret it if you don't and end up with a nasty mess like this!




In 1973, they didn't use the underbody rubbery glue stuff under the fender.  Well, before you complain about it getting in the way again, check out what happens when you don't have it!



Fun times...

Casey

1973 headlights aren't so easy to access.  You need a wrench to take the 8mm nut off the center, and then a screwdriver to pry the cover open.  Newer models are much nicer in this regard:



Not sure if this is original, if it is it's another difference specific to 1973.  1974 and up use a wingnut but this uses a round thumbscrew on top of the power steering reservoir:



I got a whole lot more done!  There's becoming significantly less car remaining:







This vacuum module is also rather different from the later models:


ZCarFan

So... where are the bumpers?

Casey

Quote from: ZCarFan on 27 October 2012, 07:09 PM
So... where are the bumpers?

Under a workbench.  The front one has some light surface rust that I don't know how to deal with aside from rechroming... the true euro one I pulled is much better.  I sold the rear one from the true euro car already.  The rear from this car is okay - needs a new driver side piece to replace a rusty one but I have a used one on the way soon along with other parts Squiggle Dog found in a junkyard for me. :)

TJ 450

Excellent work, you really learn a hell of a lot about the cars by doing this, and yes non setting sealant is needed for those seals, water will sit under there otherwise, which is what has happened. It even happens with old seals and sealant... it clearly pays to replace them before they go hard etc. Silicone is not good.

That car has a lot of rust in the usual places which is good for getting an idea of how/where they rust. Once you know this stuff it's like riding a bike, you never forget.

Also, you begin to realize just how many parts there are in a car, and how well the 116 is put together!

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

gf

Man you are a fast worker Casey! all i managed last weekend was assemble and install a rear bumper! took me all day!

gf

looks like youve covered every potential rust spot on the w116 with these photos. Wasnt aware of the fuel filler cap issue.

Casey

#12
Nothing left in the trunk, at all:



Plenty of room in the back seat:



Notice how most of the flooring looks okay in the above picture?  Well, it's a delusion.  This is why it's imperative to keep your gaskets and seals (and sealant!) in good shape and water out of the car, because when it gets to the floor, it rusts where you can't see it, until you chip away the painted soundproofing layer.



The front floorpans have glued-in pads - you can see what was hiding under those!!  There's pretty significant amounts of floor missing on both sides:



Notice how decent-looking the white pad made everything look and what was actually underneath of it:



Is this washer pump different from the later models??



Can somebody tell me what this thing is?  There's no part number.  It was mounted behind the right headlight:



Found the coolant drain plugs on the engine, drained it as well as the radiator, drained the oil, started on the engine bay.  Next I guess I'll work on the exhaust and brakes:



I need some advice on how to take the air conditioning equipment apart so as to A> not end up breathing in all the freon and B> what needs done to the parts to protect them while they're not in use, anything special?  I suppose there's some freon collection gear I need to buy?

oversize

Great job Casey!  Damn that bastard rust has clearly struck again....  If you have a mobile A/C guy in the area, I'm sure they could evacuate the system of the gas safely and eco-friendly.
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1978 6.9 #1776 (Dora)
1977 450SEL #7010 white -P
1975 450SEL #8414 gold -P

KenM

That's some ugly rust there alright, very illuminating. With the refrigerant I agree with Mark you're best off to let someone come in and remove it for you, unless you want to fork out some fairly large dollars for

gear but you might not use it again too often. When you open the system make sure to cap off the openings on the compressor or pipe ends if you are going to re-use them. Use some duct tape to cap over

and then wind it around so it can't come off. Just need to keep dirt and as much air out as possible.