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6.9 ride height

Started by Eyeman, 26 August 2022, 06:22 PM

Eyeman

I had an authentic German mechanic that took care of my 6.9 until around a decade ago.  He retired.  I somehow believe my car was still using it's original suspension spheres, etc. My suspension finally collapsed a few years ago and I had to find a new mechanic.

This new to me mechanic I believe replaced/had rebuilt my entire suspension.  The last time I took it too him he set everything very high, pretty much the height I get when I use my raise the suspension setting.  Now this mechanic is retiring so I guess I need to learn how to do some things myself.  Is it relatively easy to set the suspension height?  I have a little leak around the tank I need to find also.

rumb

https://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/suspension-ride-height/msg132315/#msg132315

Adjusting is easy, just turn the little turnbuckles at each valve. Be safe under the rear and place some stands loose under car.

A leak is problematic. Clean area well and look again in a short while.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS

raueda1

Adjusting the rear is certainly easy, though as rumb points out, precautions against dropping must be taken.  This can't be overstressed.  The front, maybe not so much.  Somebody else should comment, but I recall that on the US cars the valve is under part of the A/C mechanism and hard to get to.  On euro models it's wide open.  In any case, after adjusting bounce the car and drive around the block so the system can settle at the new adjustment point.  It can take some trial and error to get it right.  Front fender should be 26" from the ground if memory serves.  Post pix of the car!  Good luck and cheers,

[sidebar - I can't imagine what it would cost for a mechanic to rebuild the whole suspension.  I ended up with a parts car that had collapsed.  The local MB dealer told the owner that it would cost US$15k to do the job.  That was the end of the car.]
-Dave
Now:  1976 6.9 Euro, 2015 GL550
Before that:  1966 230S, 1964 220SE coupe, 1977 Carrera 3.0

rumb

A 6.9 is suppose to be 55.5" high at roof, and the wheel well to ground is Front 26" and Rear 25" - though there is debate about these numbers.

The manual calls for measurements off certain suspension components and requires special tools that no one has.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS

daantjie

Indeed you can make fine adjustments on the leveling valves but if what you say is essentially an "H" ride height is happening with the valve in "N" I think you have bigger problems.

Please post pics showing the clearance between the bottom of fender and top of wheel for both front and rear.

This should show the ballpark of your current state in "ready to drive" configuration.
Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9 - Astralsilber

Eyeman

Thanks for the help.  Yep, I think they did some other repairs (starter, etc) and the total of the bills is around $20k.  I don't plan to sell my car and it only has 64k miles, only a tad of rust around one jack point, no dash cracks, etc so hopefully the car is somewhat worth the investment.  It has been overpainted twice so I am stripping the paint off to try to save on repaint cost.

UTn_boy

Quote from: raueda1 on 27 August 2022, 08:53 AMSomebody else should comment, but I recall that on the US cars the valve is under part of the A/C mechanism and hard to get to.  On euro models it's wide open.


Not entirely true.  All European models after 1975 could be optioned with automatic climate control at extra cost.  Automatic climate control wasn't a U.S. only option. 
1966 250se coupe`,black/dark green leather
1970 600 midnight blue/parchment leather
1971 300sel 6.3,papyrus white/dark red leather
1975 450se, pine green metallic/green leather
1973 300sel 4.5,silver blue metallic/blue leather
1979 450sel 516 red/bamboo

Eyeman

Wow, for all the complaints about these suspensions, they are pretty simple.  I found the front adjuster wide open back in the rear of the engine compartment and lowered the front practically perfectly with my first guesstimate.  I took pics of it way up there but I can't seem to get my phone to transfer the pics to my email as easily as I adjusted the suspension.  It seems I might have fixed my leak too but not sure, the hose from the pump turned easily and my leak seemed to occur while the car was running.  I'll see how lowering the rear goes Wednesday.

raueda1

Quote from: Eyeman on 29 August 2022, 07:34 PMWow, for all the complaints about these suspensions, they are pretty simple.  I found the front adjuster wide open back in the rear of the engine compartment and lowered the front practically perfectly with my first guesstimate.  I took pics of it way up there but I can't seem to get my phone to transfer the pics to my email as easily as I adjusted the suspension.  It seems I might have fixed my leak too but not sure, the hose from the pump turned easily and my leak seemed to occur while the car was running.  I'll see how lowering the rear goes Wednesday.
Probably most of here would agree.  I think the substantive annoyances are (often) crazy expensive components and tolerating non-critical issues, like leaks or slow dropping, cause it works well enough and fixing doesn't seem worth it.  But virtually everybody here is doing their own work, not going to some mechanic or garage.  It's those 6.9 owners that are hit with the $15,000+ bills.  Some W116 article out there recommended against the 6.9 cause suspension problems are a "wallet-nuking experience."  And so they are unless you do it yourself.  Still not cheap, vefy doable.  Cheers,   
-Dave
Now:  1976 6.9 Euro, 2015 GL550
Before that:  1966 230S, 1964 220SE coupe, 1977 Carrera 3.0