6.9 rear end rebuild with 560SEL shafts

[WGB]

As my 6.9 has a C-V joint "ringing the bell" I have decided to rebuild the whole rear with 560SEL driveshafts so that I hope I never have to worry about that part again.

This requires the diff to be converted to flanges.

The first parcel arrived from The Classic Centre, Irvine, California today - having been posted 5 days ago.



Here are the contents - two flanges and all the fixings.

The second parcel arrived in Perth four days ago - 5 days after leaving Arizona - but for some reason will not be delivered until tomorrow. Five days to cross the globe and 5 days to travel the remaining 15km.

Next picture tomorrow.

Bill

[TJ 450]

Excellent, Bill.

Those flanges look very impressive. It will be a very worthwhile conversion indeed, as there will be no further need to remove the diff's rear cover to R&R the half-shafts.

Tim

[SELfor50]

Very nice Bill..  Very worthy conversion, looking forward to seeing / hearing the results. 

[WGB]

Here are the contents of the second parcel showing the diff seals, one hub bearing kit and one of the two driveshafts unpacked.



Now all I have to do is get the new seals for my car hoist (I pulled the leaking ram apart yesterday) and fabricate a bracket to bolt to the top of my transmission jack that will hold the whole subframe assembly when I drop it from my car ( Got the new cylinder of argoshield for my MIG yesterday as well).

Bill

[Big_Richard]

Dont touch the pinion seal/yoke yourself until you've read the service manual instructions on the correct procedure - It's not as straightforward as it seems.

[TJ 450]

Very sound advice there from MT.

That will be a nice rear end after all this work, for sure.

Tim

[WGB]

Dont touch the pinion seal/yoke yourself until you've read the service manual instructions on the correct procedure - It's not as straightforward as it seems.

Thanks MT - I am well aware of the potential disasters awaiting anyone who does not torque the pinion nut correctly and in teh proper sequence.

I may not actually touch it as I have a reasonably quiet diff and don't want anything to change.

I am also mindful of your experience with rear hub bearings but it is too good an opportunity not to replace everything while I have the chance.

Bill

[Big_Richard]

others have changed rear wheel bearings with no issue in the past, I think I just had a bad experience and lacked the required patience. I personally wouldn't do it myself but would get a pro to do it as I already failed once

[koan]

I noticed you intend replacing the big thin bearings between the hub and brake carrier.

My experiences with this bearing were not good. It felt tight and rough on the car but when dismantled and cleaned it looked and felt perfect. Back installed on the hub it returned to the rough feeling. I tried several orientations of the bearing with respect to the brake carrier but it didn't improve.

koan

[WGB]

I noticed you intend replacing the big thin bearings between the hub and brake carrier.

Not my intention Koan - only the two hub roller bearings. The rest of the stuff in the kit is seals and crush ring.

In all there are 5 bearings in a 450/6.9 rear hub to allow for the anti-dive/anti-squat geometry.

1) Two are like front wheel bearings but the stub axle is reversed and points inwards and is used as the pivot point at the rear of the diagonal arm - I intend to remove the cap and grease and tighten the bearings as to spec as the only critical aspect is a small amount of rotation and minimal allowable movement.

2) The large thin ball bearing that you refer to that surrounds the whole hub assembly towards the insde of the hub allows movement when the whole assembly flexes under either acceleration or braking but neither it nor the bearings on the stub axle actually rotate other than a few degrees at a time - they really only rock a little backwards and forwards.

3) The two hub bearings are the only ones that rotate and are the more likely to be worn by time and water and dirt ingress.

Bill

[koan]

Not my intention Koan - only the two hub roller bearings. The rest of the stuff in the kit is seals and crush ring.

OK. I did exactly the same, replaced the two hub bearings and repacked the others.

There's an ebay seller "starprop66" (a couple of streets away) who has the tool for rear hubs for $22:50, I bought one just in case I need to revisit the hubs again.

Hmm, wonder if the tool for anti-squat hubs is the same as the plain trailing arm tool.

koan

[WGB]

I collected that tool a couple of years back - Must check that it fits the nut.

The first picture shows the socket for the diff and transmission flanges on the left



The second picture shows my hub-nut socket - on the right




Bill

[Big_Richard]

the 4 slot diff nut is NLA and they are single use only.

the new nut is a special star shaped nut.

I have the socket if you choose to go down this path and can leave it with TJ if you like for lending.

[WGB]

Thanks for the offer M-T.

I am still not sure I am brave enough to attack the pinion nut and will see what eventuates when I have the pieces in my hand.

Bill

[Big_Richard]

Thanks for the offer M-T.

I am still not sure I am brave enough to attack the pinion nut and will see what eventuates when I have the pieces in my hand.

Bill

If i remember correctly the procedure requires the use of a friction measurement device and replacement of a crushable spacer. The turning force required to turn the pinion must be exactly the same before and after the operation which sounds kind of scary.

PS, i never read the instructions and thought, she'll be right, and my diff is as noisy as hell. Was silent prior.