6.9 head removal

[s class]

hylomar in a spraycan - that sounds interesting.  I can see a lot of uses for that. 

[69ltr]

May I just say that all of you guys are fantastic.I have been reading through some of the info about 6.9's & have been total in awe of the wealth of knowlege that you all have.I have only recently bought my 6.9 and am very keen to bring it back up to scratch.With the info here,I'm sure I can.

Regards
Darren

[koan]

Fired up the engine today, ran it for about a minute, a bit of a backfire when throttle blipped but apart from that everything looks good.

Still a few things to do, a final check of hydraulic adjusters and re-torquing the heads while warm being the main ones. Have been told by the pros the last step in not required but I'll do it bt the book.

Is it possible the backfire is caused by excess oil in the cylinders from my pre-oiling? Still a bit of smoke out the exhaust when I shut the engine off.

Will check cam and ignition timing again.

koan.

[WGB]

Do you mean backfire through the exhaust or through the aircleaner.

I guess the mixture will be rich until the motor is well warmed up and the timing may be out.

Pleased to hear it's running again.

I would expect smoke to take a while to settle down.

Bill

[koan]

It was a backfire in the inlet manifold but that's gone now along with the oil smoke. Took a while for the smoke to completely clear, about 10 minutes of idling.

Fixed a few injector leaks, thought I knew by feel how much torque to apply but obviously was a bit on the low side.

Did the warm re-torquing of the head bolts today. Run the engine warm for 10 minutes, following the tightening sequence, loosen each head bolt a fraction and tighten to the final torque figure and move on to the next bolt.

I was told not to bother doing this but I believe it to be required, The torque needed to loosen the bolts was surprisingly low. I backed each one off about 1./8 of a turn before tightening.

If the "don't bother doing this" is common practice it could explain why there are many reports of loose head bolts on M100 engines.

Only the brake booster and under dash trim needs to go in now, then a brake bleed. Coolant fill after verifying no water leaks and finally a wash and polish.

koan

[s class]

If the "don't bother doing this" is common practice it could explain why there are many reports of loose head bolts on M100 engines.

My thoughts exactly. 

Well done - I know how good it feels to be on the home straight after a big job.