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6.9 head removal

Started by koan, 18 August 2008, 03:14 AM

koan

Added a few more pics of progress so far here.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

koan

Quote from: TJ 450 on 25 September 2008, 11:58 AM

I found a suitable 10mm hex key to sacrifice. What I'll do is grind it off just before the bend and use a 6-point socket on it, as you were considering, Koan. Hopefully that will clear the camshaft(s) and exhaust manifold.


Did a bit of pre-assembly of cam bearings and cam shaft today. First discovery, with cam shaft in position the bolts almost under the cam can't be inserted. Second, with the bolts in place the long 10mm hex does not fully engage with the bolts because the cam forces the key to be off vertical. It's going to need some sort of offset key or something with a very skinny shank to drive them.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

WGB

Looks magnificent - too good to use.

Better left on the desk as a display paperweight. ;D

I see what you mean by the sharp edge on the exhaust valve stem.


Bill

TJ 450

That looks incredible. 8)

Regarding the hex keys, I'm sure I've seen an offset type somewhere. Perhaps it was in the service literature? I have yet to sort out my head bolt spacer/bolt.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

s class

Those heads are a thing of beauty.  Well done. 


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

adamb

Hi Koan,

I'm truly impressed by how much effort you put into that 6.9 of yours. You got to promise me to give me a chance to put in a bid if you decide to see it :P

#2062 is standing around at the moment waiting for me to have time to drive it to a safety inspection which is required by law once a year. At the moment I'm driving around in 500SEC. Nice but it's just not as much fun. I do prefer the fuel consumption though - about 70% improvement on the 6.9!

Adam

koan

Quote from: adamb on 06 October 2008, 04:44 PM

I'm truly impressed by how much effort you put into that 6.9 of yours. You got to promise me to give me a chance to put in a bid if you decide to see it :P


Thanks everyone for the kind words. I do put in a lot of effort. most of it's wasted on unseen things though (like under the cam boxes). I really should put an effort into the body, I have rust in LHS sill, I have the brand new sill and ancillary bits to replace it but can't do that sort of work.

Quote

#2062 is standing around at the moment waiting for me to have time to drive it to a safety inspection which is required by law once a year.


We are fortunate in Victoria of not having annual inspections, only required on change of ownership. Don't have pollution checks either.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

koan

Bent up a 12 mm allen key today to get at the hard to access head bolts. Have a look at a couple of pictures here W116.org Gallery  » Garage  » koan's bits  » Tools.

Key is about 180 mm long, the offset is about 8 mm, I was going for 10 but didn't make it.  Gives about 130 degrees rotation which should be plenty.

koan.
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

TJ 450

Excellent work, Koan.

I'll have to do the same for my bolt re-tightening, I think.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

oscar

koan, very impressive 8)

Once the heads are reassembled do you have to get them pressure tested?  And did you have to apply heat to the 12mm allen key?  I thought these things would shatter if you bent them cold.  Basically, how did you bend it?
1973 350SE, my first & fave

koan

Quote from: oscar on 07 October 2008, 08:47 AM

Once the heads are reassembled do you have to get them pressure tested?  And did you have to apply heat to the 12mm allen key?  I thought these things would shatter if you bent them cold.  Basically, how did you bend it?


Correct me but I thought pressure testing was to detect cracks in heads, my intention is to bolt them straight back on.

It needed heat, a lot of it. One end in a vice and a couple of feet of pipe on the other.

The gas cylinder is filled BBQ/LPG/Propane, no idea what. It's out of test and hasn't been filled for 10 years. It doesn't seem as hot as it was, I'm wondering if it contains a mix of gasses and the hottest burning one has boiled off first, does that happen?

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

WGB

I would imagine that heat from a propane (BBQ mix) would be a bit light on for serious metal heating compared to an Oxy torch.

I assume it would have to be left to cool slowly so as not to lose it's temper (not really sure of the metallurgy) and avoid heating the tip of the allen key as much as possible.

Bill

koan

#42
Quote from: WGB on 07 October 2008, 06:11 PM

I would imagine that heat from a propane (BBQ mix) would be a bit light on for serious metal heating compared to an Oxy torch.


Certainly so, It was used in the past for soldering gutters and the like but as I said it doesn't seem as hot as it used to be.

Quote

I assume it would have to be left to cool slowly so as not to lose it's temper (not really sure of the metallurgy) and avoid heating the tip of the allen key as much as possible.


The ends were shielded from the heat by vice jaws so that should be OK. Heating and allowing to cool slowly should anneal, as I understand that removes whatever temper the material had

Never had much success tempering wood chisels though, annealing followed by a tempering stage, heating till the sharp end is pale straw and then quenching gives me a chisel that is blunt after seeing a piece of soft pine so my metallurgical ability is limited.

koan


Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

oscar

Thanks for the info guys.

About pressure testing the head, I thought they did it for testing valves as well, rather the seats of the valves.  Looking in the M116/m117 manual it just says they do it for suspected cracked heads.  So you're right, just bolt 'em back on.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

koan

I received my exhaust manifold gaskets yesterday, $14US each as opposed to $40A locally.

All I need now is that sleeve for the fuel lines.

Why is that a hold up?

Because it has to go on the fuel delivery line from the bottom, the line needs to be removed to do that, the clamps that hold the line are behind the exhaust heat shield which needs to been in place before the exhaust manifold can be installed and finally the manifold has to be dropped in before the head is installed. A pain.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!