6.9 head removal

[dburkitt]

OK, the heads are coming off, the gaskets have deffo gone.

So, does anyone have a walk through of head removal or any videos etc? Any tips welcome like what does, and doesn't need to come off etc?

Cheers

[koan]

OK, the heads are coming off, the gaskets have deffo gone.

So, does anyone have a walk through of head removal or any videos etc? Any tips welcome like what does, and doesn't need to come off etc?

I've had the heads off of mine because of low compression due to burnt valve. Don't have a walk through.

Important things are black marking pen and resealable bags for everything removed. Labels for vacuum lines that stay behind. Camera to assist memory.

Not all the inlet manifold bolts are the same length and one of the front left head bolts has a spacer under it.

Where are you, I'm in Hawthorn.

koan

[dburkitt]

Hi Koan,

I'm in Kew, the garage with the shutter drawn down over almost all of the 6.9; it's 4" too big. It's got the SM parked in front of it, which is now the daily driver.

If you wanted to pop round, I have Yorkshire tea and a lot of home made beer, but then I'm a POM and I guess its what you might expect.

I have been videoing the dismantling (handy, since the vacuum pipes are as brittle as spaghetti from 32 years of being baked under the bonnet),so I'm really trying to capture everything.

DB

[Big_Richard]

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[dburkitt]

I'm now looking at the engine with most of the vacuums off and I'm wondering how much of the injection system needs to be disconnected. Will the intake manifold come off with the injectors in place?

[koan]

I had a lot of trouble lifting the inlet manifold off. The EGR pipe manages to get stuck under the edge of the left head, think I had to disconnect EGR pipe at the throttle body so it could be moved out of the way. I wouldn't try to get the inlet manifold off with injectors (and I assume metering body and fuel distributor) in place for that reason. Disconnect injection plumbing but always use a second spanner as a counter hold to prevent fixed parts rotating, it's easy to twist the end off the injector lines.

I have numbers here (somewhere) for the nylon vacuum lines with correct colour codes, Joe can probably supply them.

koan

[TJ 450]

Wow, I just remembered what a PITA that EGR pipe is... thanks Koan.

I actually had to stand in the engine bay to alloy me to get the control required to work it in. Even then, I got it in by chance, and the gasket always wants to slip off and fall into the V.

Tim

[koan]

Wow, I just remembered what a PITA that EGR pipe is... thanks Koan.

Still a lot easier than getting the AAV off a 280 though

(first you have to find it!)

koan

[TJ 450]

Still a lot easier than getting the AAV off a 280 though

(first you have to find it!)

koan

Ah, yes... plus the WUR. What were they thinking?

Tim

[dburkitt]

HI All and Ken,

Well, got the LH (as labled by MB, I'd call it the RH) off and yes the intake manifold was a compleat b!tch, compounded by the fact that the front and rear mounting bolts mashed their heads and two others (ones that go past the water inlets) sheared off as they had corroded where they had been exposed to coolant. This did not help one bit as I had to drill of the cap heads and then the studs left behind wouldn't let the manifold lift up. So..I had to take off the LH ex manifold and then release the head so that it could slide down sufficiently to let the studs come clear, then "lift" off the intake while fighting the EGR pipe. I have so many cuts and bruises its just not funny. Anyway, the head is off and I have to say, everything looks new, you can still see the honed cross hatching on the bores and the cam doesn't have a mark on it. There are some tiny signs of the rear cylinder letting in coolant, but I mean tiny. I always thought it was the other side, so when I get the servo off (any tips Ken), then I'll let you know.

Ken, I here what you say about originality, but the EGR is not going back on and neither is that poxy pipe, I will have to make some nice caps.

DB

[koan]

I must have had an easy run, apart from the EGR pipe battle all the bolts came out without drama. I have a few new manifold bolts and a few misc new/used head bolts if they are any use to you.

The EGR pipe is easy to get on, getting it off is the problem

The brake booster is a murder. Brake plumbing has to be disconnected, might as well take off the master cylinder (don't lose the tip  off the pushrod end). Pedal has to be disconnected from the pushrod, seem to remember there's  an assortment of washers, a clip, a nylon sleeve and the pivot peg. The four studs on the booster coming through the firewall are near impossible to get at, can't recall if I went at them from the bottom or through instrument cluster hole, bottom I think.

koan

[dburkitt]

Oh God, I thought I was over the hump. I had a feeling the servo was going to be a pain; worse than the EGR?

By the bye, is the lower comp acheived by head or the concave pistons I can now see?

[TJ 450]

The booster isn't that difficult to remove, however, it requires looking up with your head near the pedals... Somewhat painful.

The four nuts/washers and the pin for the pedal assembly are all accessible by removing the ducting/knee bolster in the Driver's footwell.

Good luck,

Tim

[Big_Richard]

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[WGB]

The booster isn't that difficult to remove, however, it requires looking up with your head near the pedals... Somewhat painful.

The four nuts/washers and the pin for the pedal assembly are all accessible by removing the ducting/knee bolster in the Driver's footwell.

Good luck,

Tim

I removed the instruments and the knee roll and used two long extensions - may need a universal joint on one.

Awkward but not that difficult to remove.

Bill