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6.9 custom radiator

Started by Big_Richard, 01 June 2008, 10:32 PM

oscar

Damn! So close to a start >:(  But glad to hear you got a fan. 
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Big_Richard

#16
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oscar

Quote from: Patrick Bateman on 07 June 2008, 02:44 AM

Do you know if the alternator needs to be connected to start a 116?


Pass.  I know the 350 could run with a bad alternator until the battery died but it was still connected and the circuit/s through it were still complete.  So I'm not real sure what'd happen if the alternator was removed or disconnected.  I'd still whack a battery in there and give it a go for curisotiy's sake.  I can't imagine k-jet would need an alternator anymore than a d-jet but it depends on whether the ignition is somehow connected with the alternator.  I'm guessing not so it should work :-\  I reckon koan would know
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Big_Richard

#18
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Big_Richard

#19
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TJ 450

It's sounding good, PB... not far to go now.  ;)

I'm fairly certain you would need the alternator installed to run the car, as some things might have the regulator as part of the circuit. I'd just put the old alternator on for the time being, as it only takes a few minutes to install/remove.  8)

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Big_Richard

#21
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WGB

On two occasions I accidentally drove my 450 with the plug out of the back of the alternator after I had welded up something and forgot to put it back. My 450 has a push in plug in the back of the alternator but my 6.9 has a pair of nuts.

The car started and ran perfectly  after a while the tacho started bouncing around and then the electric aerial started going up and down. Fortunately it got me to where I was going but wouldn't start when  wanted to come home.

The second time I recognised the symptoms and stopped and pushed the connector back on before running out of battery.

Bill

Big_Richard

#23
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TJ 450

Awesome, it sounds like you're on the home run.
Quote from: Patrick Bateman on 08 June 2008, 04:06 AM
Its Alive!

The Bosch notch on the distributor for lining it up upon installation is to have the plastic side of the rotor pointing to it. from memory, this is how i removed it too, seems kind of stupid, i would of thought the metal side would point this way. Oh well. Don't I feel like a douchebag now.

That seems unusual... the conductive end of the rotor should align with the mark on the distributor housing when the piston of cylinder #1 is at TDC if all is well.

I have a timing light with an inductive pickup, if you want to borrow it.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Big_Richard

#25
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WGB

Here is my 6.9 rotor at No 1 cylinder TDC



And here is a close up with the plastic liner lifted to show the timing more more clearly



PB - have you wired up the leads 180 degrees out or somehow put the cap on incorrectly?

Anyway sounds like it is running now.

When I started my car after this static timing set up I was about 7 degrees out when  used my timing light.

Bill

Big_Richard

#27
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koan

Quote from: Patrick Bateman on 08 June 2008, 05:41 AM

the front hub cannot be installed 180 degrees out - its notched to go on in only one way, and that's how i installed it.

I think, the only explanation is, that the harmonic balancer, can be installed in either orientation on the front hub, and at some stage has been removed and replaced incorrectly.


From memory the harmonic balancer and the front hub are one piece and as you say can only go on the correct way as there's only one key way. The pulley bolts to the hub but the marks are on the balancer.

Where's the number 1 on the distributor cap? it should be towards the back of the engine, over the top of the TDC grove in the distributor.

I suspect your cap on is on 1/2 a turn out but still with number1 plug (and the rest) connected to number 1 on the cap.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

Big_Richard

#29
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