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350SE timing overhaul

Started by Denis, 06 May 2006, 11:01 AM

Denis

hello gentlemen

Old "Von Humboldt" decided to turn in the incredible fuel consumption of 36 litres per 100  :o :o :o

Take that you piddly little dinky miser 6.9s at full throttle !!!

What is the recommendation on slide rail changes when changing the tensioner and timing chain ? the ones  in the head only ? all of them ? what is a good homemade slide hammer to pull the pins out ? tricks anyone ?

How hard is it to remove the crankshaft pulley to get at the front cover ?

Thanks everybody

Denis

Paris, France

Tomi

#1
olalaa monsieur,

I see you are really going in this direction. I have to tell you my experience to start here: when I changed the chain, tensioner and top rails, the chain slipped on the right bank when installing it and I kind of lost the original setup there so I did the timing based on the marks on the cam towers and crank only. It happenned that the right mark could not be aligned, either it was half a tooth too early or half a tooth too late. I think the old chain which was elongated matched better. Well I left it half a tooth late and drove the car for about a week with no symptoms, everything worked fine. I thought about it all night long and I decided to open it again and advance the chain one tooth on the right bank so it is half a tooth early compared to the marking. I thought that as the chain stretches it gets closer to the marking. This is how it is today and no particular symptoms, maybe the engine is less noisy but I really dont know. but I decided to leave it there. So my experience is that one tooth did not make a difference in my case.

I think you dont need to take the lower part open, only the valve covers off, no need to take the crank wheel out. In fact I think to do that it is only possible with the engine out. This would be really much work.

You only need to change the top 3 rails what you see when taking the valve covers off. (you need to take the steering pump and alternator away). You might want to change also the rail that is on the tensioner as well further down.

To take those pins, I just used 6mm thread screws long enough and some pipe and washers and a nut with which it is possible to screw them out.

I would say that to change the chain it is a 2 man job, one gently turns the engine by the crank and the other feeds new chain keep it tight to the right cam and takes the old out.

just dont drop anything in there.

If the chain is not too old, I would also consider just redoing the timing and changing only the tensioner.

regards

PS. one more idea, before spending money, why dont you just advance the timing on the right bank by one tooth to have the marks aligned as much as possible and see how it works

Denis

Hi Tomi

I want to do this correctly but maybe in steps  :)

Quoteone more idea, before spending money, why dont you just advance the timing on the right bank by one tooth to have the marks aligned as much as possible and see how it works

That is exactly what I want to do today or tomorrow, the fuel consumption is dreadful as it is and the oil needs replacement after that sort of operation.

QuoteIf the chain is not too old, I would also consider just redoing the timing and changing only the tensioner.

Yes, I also think that this is the first repair step. I will find out if the chain is really worn. If not worn, my theory of the old tensioner would be confirmed and I can order a chain and slide rails in the summer.

A+  (meaning "à plus tard" in french)

Denis

Paris, France