280SE rear wheel hub problems

[s class]

I've made reasonable progress with the reassembly, but I'm stuck at the stage of having to tighten the slot nuts. 

Trying to be cheap, I had machined a 50mm socket down and made my own tool for the slot nuts.  It worked pretty well removing the old slot nuts, but its not up to the task of tightening the new ones.  I finally last night admitted to myself I need to buy the proper thing.  I know WGB and others bought from Samstag sales in the US. 

This is the item with mercedes number 115 589 02 07 00  /  915 589 02 07 00. 

Samstag says they can no longer supply the MB tool, but have a Sir-tools substitute.  (part M0027).  Is this the one any of you are using?  Is it OK?

[Big_Richard]

i have the samstag version from memory - and yes, its not uncommon to be stuck at that stage. An insane amount of torque is required to crush the centering sleeve, and it has to be smoothly applied, such as with a 3 meter breaker bar connected to the socket. Blunt force with a sledge hammer will bend the pins of the socket.

Its because of the insane tightening torque that makes it virtually impossible to do the job with the wheel carrier / trailing arm (depending on version) still attatched to the car. the hub needs to be bolted to something and installed in a industrial sized vice ( i used a reversed old brake disk)

[Big_Richard]

i have the samstag version from memory - and yes, its not uncommon to be stuck at that stage. An insane amount of torque is required to crush the centering sleeve, and it has to be smoothly applied, such as with a 3 meter breaker bar connected to the socket. Blunt force with a sledge hammer will bend the pins of the socket.

Its because of the insane tightening torque that makes it virtually impossible to do the job with the wheel carrier / trailing arm (depending on version) still attatched to the car. the hub needs to be bolted to something and installed in a industrial sized vice ( i used a reversed old brake disk)

[Big_Richard]

I also eventually gave up and reused the original, pre crushed centering sleeve - i just couldn't do it.

Unfortunately towing a furnature trailer resulted in that job completely failing and i just replaced the complete trailing arms from a w126.

Next time, if ever required, ill take the complete trailing arms to MB and let them deal with it - its just not for me.

Thankfully MB went away from this horrible design with the w140 and went to disposable bearing cartridge inserts that take all of 5 minutes to replace.

[s class]

Thank you PB.  I will order the tool and, well, I have to make it work.  The car is my daily driver, and its rear end is high on trestles until the tool arrives from the U.S. 

[Big_Richard]

im sure if any one can do it, its going to be you

[s class]

Haha thanks PB.  It looks like a simple enough taks, but I'm sure there's more to it than there appears. 

[s class]

FINALLY - look what arrived in the mail :



And here it is engaged with the slot nut :

[s class]

The car is back together.  The torquing of the slot nuts was actually very easy (with the right tools!).  The manual calls for end play of 0.04 to 0.06mm.  It is just time consuming.  As I approached the correct end play, I kept checking and re-checking the end play with a dial guage after every few degrees of tightening.  One doesn't want to overshoot, as then the spacer ring needs to be replaced again. 

I did both sides in-situ in the car.  Left side first, and I ended up with an end play of about 0.05mm.  I was aiming for the 0.04mm end of the allowable range, because I think the clearances may open up a bit after a few km as the bearings seat.  Anyhow, I chickened out in fear of overshooting.  I did the right side second and got bang on 0.04mm end play.  Very nice. 

[WGB]

What a headache.

I am pleased the Sir tool was adequate.

I hope never have to use mine by the sound of this saga.

What do you think was the cause of the distortion ?accident damage,?Kerbing ?Rough roads.

Bill

[Big_Richard]

The car is back together.  The torquing of the slot nuts was actually very easy (with the right tools!).  The manual calls for end play of 0.04 to 0.06mm.  It is just time consuming.  As I approached the correct end play, I kept checking and re-checking the end play with a dial guage after every few degrees of tightening.  One doesn't want to overshoot, as then the spacer ring needs to be replaced again. 

I did both sides in-situ in the car.  Left side first, and I ended up with an end play of about 0.05mm.  I was aiming for the 0.04mm end of the allowable range, because I think the clearances may open up a bit after a few km as the bearings seat.  Anyhow, I chickened out in fear of overshooting.  I did the right side second and got bang on 0.04mm end play.  Very nice. 

Clearly, i must of been doing something wrong, The amount of torque i applied to the slot nuts to crush that spacer was insane, and theres no way it was going to happen in situe for me. I'll still never attempt to do this my self again, thankfully the complete 500SEL w126 trailing arms i obtained were perfect (and free!) courtesy of Nathan