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Garage => Mechanicals => Topic started by: SteveDuNord on 04 May 2022, 10:57 AM

Title: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 04 May 2022, 10:57 AM
Hello there. Bought myself a 280se from 1977 - UK car so expect rust. Everything was fine, ok engine a tad tappy, until I stopped to reverse onto my driveway. Repeated stalling when engaging reverse. Also happened engaging D, but reverse seemed worse.

Here's some pics of the engine bay. Maybe you can tell me if it's kjet or djet?

Last had a distributor in 2015.

(https://i.postimg.cc/Nfbf91GV/DC939-D66-11-E6-45-D1-ADB1-533-D397-FD7-C5.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/25rwcNN3/64-D491-D1-CF86-48-A3-AB53-9-BD9-F636-A07-B.jpg)


(https://i.postimg.cc/Gh3T53HW/40-B36882-C3-CF-4-A76-B1-D8-E672-A88-AF099.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Pf0rmt1b/5-B1579-E3-EA5-A-4976-9439-E13787-CEC3-D5.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/W1H94fB4/B086-C77-D-290-C-4-CF9-84-AE-78-C4-BB2-AE84-B.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/KYYR00jt/2-FA1-B2-AA-C85-C-455-E-8431-1-FE2-AE6-C64-B2.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/nL1GDR57/6-E3-B3-F30-C107-4635-8-FAD-AFA7-BC964-AAA.jpg)
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: revilla on 04 May 2022, 12:20 PM
Hi,
Difficult to diagnose the problem at a distance. But based on your description I wonder if it has to do with your neutral safety switch (NSS). This device is directly connected to your transmission lever and one of its job is to prevent to start the engine in R, D, S and L.  I admit  I have never experienced this issue but (please take it as a hypothesis) it could be that the lever wiggles the NSS causing the hesitation you described.
I would put the lever in R position and hold it steadily towards P first and towards N later and check whether that makes any difference. Again, just a wild guess from far.
Another test you could perform is checking if your reverse lights are steadily on when wiggling the lever at R position. That's another function of the NSS.
Based on the year of your car (1977) you should have Kjet, but showing us a picture of your fuel distributor (FD) and injectors should confirm.
Good luck.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 05 May 2022, 02:01 AM
Thank you, I'll give that a try.   

Oh I just remembered, the revs seemed to drop further when turning the wheel.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: johnnyw116 on 05 May 2022, 05:38 AM
judging to the surface oxidation on the engine and some other parts it looks like to me that the car has been standing still for some time , you have a k-jetronic i can see that direct from the air cleaner housing , and i dont think that the stalling has something to do with the neutral safety switch 
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 05 May 2022, 11:14 AM
Hi, thanks for the info. The car has been in use, the oxidisation is standard for the UK climate. At least one sill has been replaced and there's plenty of black goo applied to common rust spots. A full inspection will tell me more.

I checked a few things today and filled her up to see if low fuel level might have contributed to the stalling. Also chucked some redex (fuel conditioner) for good luck.

Took her out for a long run and tried to replicate the issue (ignition off, then back on, engage reverse) and yes, stil stalling.    ;D

Waiting for the engine to cool down before I can pull her onto the driveway.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 08 May 2022, 01:23 PM
I swear I've never seen a less catered for vehicle in my life when it comes to quick information.

I've bought a vacuum gauge, where do you connect it? Ok the vacuum pump.
But where is it?
Literally zero information on the internet. I feel like I'm taking crazy pills.
Did I buy some exotic, low production vehicle??  :o

I've tried 280se, w116, even w123. Nearly every result is diesel related (thank god I didn't buy one of those). I think I've located mine, seems to be in the same location.

I realise I'm ranting on to myself at this juncture.  ;D
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Alec300SD on 08 May 2022, 02:07 PM
Welcome to the forum.

There is a treasure trove of MB issued manuals available on the webpage that loads after you click on the Technical tab at https://www.116.org

Direct link:   https://www.w116.org/tech/
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 08 May 2022, 02:15 PM
Quote from: Alec300SD on 08 May 2022, 02:07 PMWelcome to the forum.

There is a treasure trove of MB issued manuals available on the webpage that loads after you click on the Techical tab at https://www.116.org

Direct link:   https://www.w116.org/tech/


Thanks, I'm just being lazy. Spoiled by the internet.  I will peruse them tonight.

In the end I just found a hose near the brake booster, managed to read steady at 17 after a couple of revs. Speaking of which, the needle would drop to zero and then go up into the green when the throttle was blipped.

Not sure if that number would improve if I found a better line to tap into?

(https://i.postimg.cc/hv9D4bDD/vacuum-gauge.jpg)

Also managed to pull a spark plug (very tightly screwed in) and it looked like this:

(https://i.postimg.cc/FFxwvBmf/spark.jpg)

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 09 May 2022, 07:05 AM
I read through the technical pages. There is no diagram for the engine ancillaries.

When I was young I would refer to Haynes manuals. They were great for that sort of thing.

I'll try on Benz World or somewhere.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 09 May 2022, 07:45 AM
17 in vacuum is great. 
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/03/31/vac-visual-quick-guide-vacuum-gauge-readings/


The spark plugs look a little bit rich and need replacing.

I would investigate the neutral safely switch first.


Literally zero information on the internet. I feel like I'm taking crazy pills.

That's why this forum exists. plus we're all a bit crazy also.

BenzWorld we just refer people to come here........


Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 10 May 2022, 03:45 AM
Magnifico! I should point out that I thanked you on Benzworld, just in case anybody reading this thinks I'm an ignorant so and so.

I've ordered spark plugs and a smoke machine for a vacuum leak test. I saw the diy solutions involving jars, valves and a combustible, eeesh. The machine is much cheaper than I imagined it would be.

Windscreen seal is leaking, as is a rear light cluster.

But I'm all in on this car. Basic spec, less to go wrong, needs refreshing, possibly a rust bucket... Let's go.  :P
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: gurrier on 10 May 2022, 02:09 PM
SteveDuNord

A belated welcome and best of luck with your endeavours.

rumb is correct- we're all a bit crazy - but well intentioned none the less.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 11 May 2022, 03:06 PM
Many thanks!

I managed to connect my new smoke machine to a small pipe near the brake booster, which surprisingly worked a treat.

First smoke billowed out of a tiny pipe underneath the air intake(?) (in between the yellow highlights, underneath the lead)

(https://i.postimg.cc/9fT1BKyt/smoke-leak.jpg)

Plugged that, but smoke was still coming from around the area. So either it wasn't plugged properly, or something is leaking. Hard to see from above the car, any ideas? I hope it's an easily accessible hose!
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Jan S on 11 May 2022, 03:43 PM
Is your engine M110.985?

If yes, look at the drawing:
http://www.catcar.info/mercedes/?lang=en&l=Y2xhc3M9PTF8fGNvdW50cnk9PTF8fHN0PT03MHx8c3RzPT17IjEwIjoiQXNzb3J0bWVudCBjbGFzcyIsIjIwIjoiQ2FyLUV1cm9wZSIsIjIxIjoiTWFqLiBBc3N5IE0gLSBFbmdpbmUiLCI1MCI6IjExMC45ODUgICAgIiwiNjAiOiIwNyBDQVJCVVJFVE9SIiwiNzAiOiIwMDEgSU5KRUNUSU9OIFBVTVAgQU5EIENBUkJVUkVUT1IifXx8Y2F0YWxvZz09MDMyICAgfHxjYXRhbG9nMT09MDMyICAgfHx0eXBlPT0xMTB8fHR5cGUxPT0xMTB8fHN1Ym0xPT05ODV8fHN1Ym0xMT09OTg1fHxhZ2d0eXBlPT1NfHxhZ2d0eXBlMT09TXx8bW9kZWw9PTExMC45ODUgICAgfHxtb2RlbDE9PTExMC45ODUgICAgfHxkZXRhaWxncnBudW09PTA3fHxzdWJncnA9PTAwMXx8cGFnZTcwPT03

Maybe the leak comes from the rubber boot number 756, or the gasket 826?

On Catcar you can also find the engine's air intake manifold.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 11 May 2022, 04:57 PM
Quote from: Jan S on 11 May 2022, 03:43 PMIs your engine M110.985?

If yes, look at the drawing:
http://www.catcar.info/mercedes/?lang=en&l=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

Maybe the leak comes from the rubber boot number 756, or the gasket 826?

On Catcar you can also find the engine's air intake manifold.


Yes that's my engine. That website is exactly what I've been looking for, fantastic.

I feel like the smoke was coming from below the boot and gasket you mentioned. I thought I saw a rubber hose down there but it was hard to see, even with a torch.

Tomorrow I'll get under the car and see what I can see.

In the meantime, I'm baffled by the little uncapped pipe that was smoking. I think it might be coming off 823, which is identified as the throttle body. Hopefully it's a breather of some sort.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Jan S on 11 May 2022, 05:40 PM
Is this your air intake manifold?

Maybe hose 403 is leaking?

http://www.catcar.info/mercedes/?lang=en&l=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%3D

Or see page 4.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 12 May 2022, 04:20 AM
Hmm. Not sure. I need to take a look in the daylight.
I'm still concerned about this uncapped pipe near the throttle body. Have done some reading and it might be a vacuum line from the throttle housing to the distributor on pre 78 cars (mine is a '77).

If so, I'm missing a hose.

Hose no.3 on this image? (Not my engine)

(https://i.postimg.cc/tgnTSKqJ/img-2131-jpg.jpg)
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 12 May 2022, 05:42 AM

Update: discovered an existing throttle body to distributor hose, so whatever this pipe is, it's venting out into the engine bay.

(https://i.postimg.cc/DZfmnB13/throttlevacuum.jpg)
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 12 May 2022, 07:46 AM
"Update: discovered an existing throttle body to distributor hose"

where does that hose connect?  It makes a difference.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 12 May 2022, 11:47 AM
Quote from: rumb on 12 May 2022, 07:46 AM"Update: discovered an existing throttle body to distributor hose"

where does that hose connect?  It makes a difference.

It starts here:

(https://i.postimg.cc/rFgjFhdy/throttlebodyhose.jpg)

And goes to this round thingy on the dizzy, marked yellow.

(https://i.postimg.cc/yNDZKjRG/distributorhose.jpg)

Other side of said thingy:

(https://i.postimg.cc/DwZWQ6xz/distributorhose2.jpg)

And the above hose/wire goes underneath to here, which feels like a three way connector. Then disappears into the manifold somewhere.

(https://i.postimg.cc/gkrdN7b1/distrbutorhose3.jpg)

On the previous image (marked 'not my engine') the same hoses seem to go towards the ignition coil (if that's what it is?).
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 12 May 2022, 01:01 PM
Both fitting are below the throttle plate so that is good.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 12 May 2022, 01:13 PM
Quote from: rumb on 12 May 2022, 01:01 PMBoth fitting are below the throttle plate so that is good.

I would have no idea why, but am pleased to hear it.  ;D

The issue I face is that the uncapped pipe on the throttle housing is either meant to have a hose attached, meant to be capped, or meant to be as it is - unconnected and uncapped.

Until I know, I can't solve any vacuum leak issues. Problem is there's so many different configurations across model years. And it appears vacuum hoses go missing over the years while people tinker with their systems.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: ptashek on 12 May 2022, 05:58 PM
That thingy on your dizzy is the automatic ignition advance vacuum pod. Can't help with the other thingy.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: daantjie on 12 May 2022, 06:51 PM
Usually in my experience the vacuum advance line goes from the distributor to a switch on the firewall which controls idle up when you have the AC on.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 13 May 2022, 02:16 AM
Thanks, fellas. I read somewhere that maybe the EGR valve connects to the throttle housing. So if my car has an egr valve, maybe someone has blocked it off, and maybe they forgot to cap the pipe?

I've also read that a throttle housing pipe goes to the purge valve and then the charcoal canister. So that's maybe a possibility.

At least I'm learning about the engine bay.  ;)

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 13 May 2022, 11:16 AM
Well I did the smoke check again today and identified the offending hose. Accessible only by my left hand, upside down.  >:(

(https://i.postimg.cc/JhZTTCQ7/Vacleakfix1.jpg)

Someone had jerry rigged it with electrical tape. The baby oil used for smoke production was dripping out, and caused it to slip apart.

(https://i.postimg.cc/s2dmG0Ck/vacleacfix2.jpg)

The plastic joint is a tad too large for the diameter of the hose, so someone decided to split the hose to make it fit, at both ends.  ::)

(https://i.postimg.cc/gJB68n6x/vacleakfix3.jpg)

Best I could do was to snip the hose and force the piece in, then cable tie it.

(https://i.postimg.cc/CMqCTpBb/vacleakfix4.jpg)

Enter a lot of this stuff, which won't be easy to apply with my upside down weak hand. Especially the flame on the heatshrink.  ;D

(https://i.postimg.cc/Tw8wnFdX/vacleakfix6.jpg)

Here's the other end of the hose, heavily split, which is an offshoot of a larger hose, so it's not like I can just replace it.

(https://i.postimg.cc/0ycXM1Cb/vacleakfix5.jpg)

Well, somehow I managed to apply three cable ties in total, a bit of gaffa tape, and some heatshrink. By golly it stopped the leak!

(https://i.postimg.cc/J0xZ6M0X/vacleakfix7.jpg)

There was still a bit of smoke exiting the throttle body around some linkage, but at this point I don't really care. Plus, that part is accessible at least.

Spark plugs going in later, air filter back on and I'll do another vacuum pressure test just out of interest...

Sorry for all the pics!!



Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: gurrier on 13 May 2022, 12:26 PM
For my part SteveDuNord no need to apoligise.  Its for infotainment like this that I,for one, frequent the Forum.

Bill
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 14 May 2022, 10:58 AM
Thanks, Bill. In turn, it's nice to have like minded people to share information with. I have my sister staying with me, she just nods at my humble achievements and says 'good...?'. 
;D

I managed to change the spark plugs today. Was cursing my luck when I saw the threaded part was missing. Didn't realise you could pull the cap off. Doh.

(https://i.postimg.cc/dVTrVq2K/spark1.jpg)

Anyone for Autumn Leaves? Yikes.

(https://i.postimg.cc/TwkpcSV9/spark3.jpg)

A quick blast with the hand held vacuum and just good old fashioned filth.  ;D

(https://i.postimg.cc/65BBQzC6/spark4.jpg)

Torqued to around 20nm. A tad less than the savage who fitted the last set, blimey.

All that done, air filter back on, time to test the vacuum pressure again after fixing that hose: nice and steady with a slight improvement. No smoke from the exhaust either. I'll take it...

(https://i.postimg.cc/MKpg4LyB/vacuum-Gauge.jpg)

Will it stop the warm stalling? Probably not. But maybe after the new Bosch distributer cap and rotor are fitted. Probably with some new Bosch plugs too. The ones that are on now are cheap.

While we're here let's check the brake fluid. Oh mercy!  :o

(https://i.postimg.cc/KYGTrnXm/brakefluid1.jpg)

Tester lit up like a christmas tree

(https://i.postimg.cc/zvCT8N4k/brakefluid2.jpg)

No bother, every fluid is being changed anyway. Tomorrow I'll test the warm start issue again. Just for fun.









Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Nabstud on 14 May 2022, 09:20 PM
Great work!! That is also great vacuum for an old motor.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 15 May 2022, 07:24 AM
Quote from: Nabstud on 14 May 2022, 09:20 PMGreat work!! That is also great vacuum for an old motor.

Thanks!

Went for a drive today, was travelling at motorway speeds for over ten minutes before I realised the parking brake was still engaged.  :-\

Unfortunately the warm stalling when engaging gear, after turning engine off and back on, is still there. Reverse worse than D.

Ordered a Mann oil filter and am picking up some 15/40 millers mineral oil tomorrow. Still waiting on the dizzy cap and rotor.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Big Tiny on 22 May 2022, 08:29 PM
None of these vacuum leaks would be enough to cause an engine stall situation.

However there could be a host of other things.

What is cold idle speed verse hot idle ?

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 23 May 2022, 02:37 AM
No idea. There's no tachometer. I'm thinking of buying one of those digital rev counters.

I'm waiting on injectors/sleeves and ignition leads. Have a new rotor here, but can't find a new cap. Will be adjusting valve clearance and replacing transmission fluid.

Did an oil change and took this cold start video.

https://youtu.be/YNVCmNnNlI4


Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Big Tiny on 23 May 2022, 06:18 PM
Idle speed is fine cold, possibly around 1100 rpm.

First thing to check is fuel pressure and fuel flow.

https://k-jet.biz/tests/
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 29 May 2022, 06:29 PM
Well I fitted 6 new injectors and seals. Now the car won't start.

Turns over, stuttered once, but other than that no dice.

I took off the pipes at the FD end to get them to fit at the injector ends. I've made sure to switch the ignition on and off a few times before trying to crank the engine.

Also, the air filter housing won't go back on, as if it's fouled by the pipes that I had removed and reattached.  :-\
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Big Tiny on 29 May 2022, 10:39 PM
Always good to take pictures before removing anything so as to go back in order.

Do tests above as linked. Injectors would have always been down on the list of problems. More likely other issues.

You need to do some basic diagnostics and don't simply throw parts at the engine to no avail.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Big Tiny on 29 May 2022, 10:45 PM
Not sure if this helps, but shows my injector hard pipes.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: raueda1 on 06 June 2022, 09:31 AM
Quote from: Big Tiny on 29 May 2022, 10:45 PMNot sure if this helps, but shows my injector hard pipes.
Not related to the problem, but that's a BEAUTIFUL engine!
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 06 June 2022, 04:51 PM
Quote from: raueda1 on 06 June 2022, 09:31 AM
Quote from: Big Tiny on 29 May 2022, 10:45 PMNot sure if this helps, but shows my injector hard pipes.
Not related to the problem, but that's a BEAUTIFUL engine!

You could eat your dinner off it!

Meanwhile, I've checked the spark plugs to see if they were wet. Changed them with a new set that I'd accidentally bought in duplicate.

Bought a spark checker which didn't fit properly, so got my neighbour to hold it while I cranked the engine and electrocuted him.  ;D He must have held the metal sleeve of the HT lead. Oops... Incidentally, the bosch HT leads I bought don't fit my Bremi distributor. And the bosch Rotor I bought was the wrong sort (non rev limiter type). But I digress.

Managed to straighten out the FD hard lines, so I can now get the air box back on.

I noticed the new rubber injector bushes I bought (Febi branded) were different from the originals, so I'll try them with the old injectors tomorrow, and if that doesn't work I'll try the old bushes and old injectors. Just to rule it all out.

I'm trying to avoid a fuel pressure test as it's too complicated and I'm lazy.

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Type17 on 07 June 2022, 07:50 AM
Regarding the stalling, have you checked the CO/mixture? - on any K-Jet car I've had, a weak mixture causes hot stalling when selecting gears.
Obviously, with a vacuum leak, the mixture will be weakened by unmetered air, but if fixing the leaks hasn't helped much, it could be just a bad air/fuel setting.
It could also be a low system pressure - I had that issue with a Mk1 Golf GTI (also K-Jet) - needs a properly-plumbed pressure gauge inserted into the plumbing in the right place (or a Bosch specialist) to check it, but not usually an expensive fix (re-shimming a return valve in the Metering Head).

PS: I knew that car (to see) at shows in Dublin - looks similar to mine, and had a fairly similar registration number (see my sig below)
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 07 June 2022, 02:40 PM
Quote from: Type17 on 07 June 2022, 07:50 AMRegarding the stalling, have you checked the CO/mixture? - on any K-Jet car I've had, a weak mixture causes hot stalling when selecting gears.
Obviously, with a vacuum leak, the mixture will be weakened by unmetered air, but if fixing the leaks hasn't helped much, it could be just a bad air/fuel setting.
It could also be a low system pressure - I had that issue with a Mk1 Golf GTI (also K-Jet) - needs a properly-plumbed pressure gauge inserted into the plumbing in the right place (or a Bosch specialist) to check it, but not usually an expensive fix (re-shimming a return valve in the Metering Head).

PS: I knew that car (to see) at shows in Dublin - looks similar to mine, and had a fairly similar registration number (see my sig below)

Well fancy that! It's no show car at the moment, needs a few paintwork bits sorting out. But I'll be attending to those after I get it running right.

I'll definitely look into the possible fixes you mentioned. Thanks.

Meanwhile... I popped the old injectors back in and the car started pretty easily.

New ones are BOSCH 0 437 502 047 (brass)
Old ones were BOSCH 0 437 502 010 (grey colour)

Apparently the brass ones are the newer versions, but still compatible. 

I've just checked the injector holders (the rubber bush) and apparently I bought the wrong ones. I'd mistakenly identified my engine as the 185bhp unit, when it's the 177bhp version. Huh.

Tomorrow I'll refit new injectors with the old sleeves. OR buy some new sleeves that actually fit. Doh.



Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Big Tiny on 07 June 2022, 08:27 PM

[/quote]Not related to the problem, but that's a BEAUTIFUL engine!
[/quote]

Thanks, this car actually sat for 14 years before I bought it. Mechanics gave up getting it running and now I have been over the whole system it runs flawlessly.

Unfortunately without actually do a proper diagnosis its hard to tell what's going on. I always start at the fuel tank and move forward. Fuel strainer, filter, pump, tank return line etc.

Need to know fuel flow, fuel pressure etc. You can buy cheap fuel pressure kits on Ebay which are just fine for a DIY'er.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 09 June 2022, 02:43 PM
Well, BigT, before replacing the injectors today, I decided to mess with the fuel distributor.

I read about refining the sensor plate, and wondered how exactly you determine the point of deflection. I couldn't 'feel' the resistance as I plunged the plate by fingertip. Not exactly.

So I peed about with the mixture screw, trying to get it just right.
Next thing you know, I'm screwing it twenty turns this way and that.

Started the engine, and ended up with this...


The plate was very stiff. So I guessed I'd massively overtightened it.
No amount of adjustment would fix it.
So I had a brainwave and cracked one of the fuel lines, which relieved the pressure.

Managed to get the sensor plate back to normal, turned the engine over but it stuttered and died.

The plate was stiff again.  :-\

I called it a day.

Thoughts?
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Type17 on 10 June 2022, 02:03 PM
I found this pic, from Terenure Classic Show in 2013


(https://i.imgur.com/auvg9Ap.jpg)
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 11 June 2022, 02:30 PM
Quote from: Type17 on 10 June 2022, 02:03 PMI found this pic, from Terenure Classic Show in 2013


(https://i.imgur.com/auvg9Ap.jpg)

That is so cool, thanks!

Incidentally, that hat is still resting on the parcel shelf.

I turned the engine over again today but it dies before I can adjust the mixture screw. Gah.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 19 June 2022, 05:32 PM
Delighted to say I finally got the engine running again today after my ill fated air/fuel adjustment attempt.

Am now trying to fine tune the mixture screw to achieve maximum vacuum. Not quite there yet, but maybe after a good run things will improve and I can go from there.

Then I can have another go at fitting the new injectors, this time using the old holders.

After all that I will by a shut off valve for my vacuum kit and do all the fuel pressure checks. Phew.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 22 June 2022, 09:07 AM
Well, the old injectors are back out, the new ones refitted but this time using the old injectors' (correct) rubber holders/sleeves.

Refuses to start.

I am at a loss.

So far:
New injectors + new sleeves. No start.
Old injectors + new sleeves. No start.
Old injectors + old sleeves. Start!
New injectors + old sleeves. No start.

The new Bosch injectors are supposed to be the updated version of the originals.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 29 June 2022, 10:16 AM
The 'correct' injector holders arrived today.
They are identical to the other ones I bought, that are supposedly incompatible with pre '78 280se's.  >:(

Waste of money but I'll try installing them anyway.

Here's images of the old style holders (right) vs the new style, and then the two new style ones together (identical).

(https://i.postimg.cc/Rh8k4GFy/injectors1.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/TYP2GY2v/injectors2.jpg)

Very frustrating.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 30 June 2022, 04:12 PM
Well, with the new injectors and new holders fitted, I couldn't start the car. Having cracked every fuel line, at the distributor and injector end, I found fuel was indeed flowing.

Next up was to check the pressure/flow from the fuel return line. I couldn't find any specific guide for the 280se engine so here we go:

First up identify the fuel return line, here it is - disconnected at the union with the hard line going back to the tank:

(https://i.postimg.cc/3JLsQvrg/fuel1.jpg)

Stick that into a suitable receptacle:
(https://i.postimg.cc/K8DJyXDC/fuel2.jpg)

Next we have to jump the fuel pump relay, which is found in the fuse box:

(https://i.postimg.cc/9FV9HDgF/fuel3.jpg)

Find a piece of wire, I used guitar hook up wire, and jump the following two holes in the female end of the relay, for illustration purposes I've held the wire up to the two corresponding prongs:
(https://i.postimg.cc/tJ8m7hsf/fuel4.jpg)

Turn the ignition on so that the red light appears (position 2?) and jump the relevant points holding the wire in place, hold it there for 30 seconds:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Jzrd040R/fuel5.jpg)

You should have a minimum of a litre of fuel in the can. I did not. I had about 300 mil.

(https://i.postimg.cc/gJVv38tQ/fuel6.jpg)

Anyone know how you test for voltage at the fuel pump??




Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Jan S on 30 June 2022, 05:30 PM
You can measure directly at the fuel pump, at the rear, under the car.

Did you remove the tank cap when measuring return flow?

I would also measure the flow at supply line to FD (to see if the filter, pipe, etc is clogged).

Have you measured the system pressure? Should be in the range of 5-6 bar I believe ... please check exact spec.

A few scenarios:

1. fuel pump is ok but return flow is restricted due to a main pressure regulator that is not opening correctly (system pressure would be higher than 6 bar, I guess. The higher the pressure, the lower the flow)

2. Main pressure regulator is ok but the fuel pump is not delivering the required flow (system pressure would be lower than 5 bar, I guess). Could also indicate a clogged fuel filter or pipe

I believe you are facing one of the two ...

Supply flow, return flow, system pressure and control pressure cold/warm are the first four things I would check.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 30 June 2022, 05:40 PM
Quote from: Jan S on 30 June 2022, 05:30 PMYou can measure directly at the fuel pump, at the rear, under the car.

Did you remove the tank cap when measuring return flow?

I would also measure the flow at supply line to FD (to see if the filter, pipe, etc is clogged).

Have you measured the system pressure? Should be in the range of 5-6 bar I believe ... please check exact spec.

A few scenarios:

1. fuel pump is ok but return flow is restricted due to a main pressure regulator that is not opening correctly (system pressure would be higher than 6 bar, I guess. The higher the pressure, the lower the flow)

2. Main pressure regulator is ok but the fuel pump is not delivering the required flow (system pressure would be lower than 5 bar, I guess). Could also indicate a clogged fuel filter or pipe

I believe you are facing one of the two ...

Supply flow, return flow, system pressure and control pressure cold/warm are the first four things I would check.

Thanks, Jan.

I'll have a poke around the fuel pump and see what wires I can connect my voltmeter to. Does the pump have to be running to get a proper reading, and is it 12v?

I did not remove the tank cap but can give that a try tomorrow.

I tested the return pipe flow as per the Kjet pressure test guide I found online. Are you saying also to check the fuel IN line? Should the flow also be minimum of 1 litre over 30 secs?

I have not measured the system pressure. I need to buy a proper kjet testing kit.

I don't know what the main pressure regulator is.

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Jan S on 30 June 2022, 06:20 PM
The wires + and - at the fuel pump are easy to find. You have to remove the two rubber caps/covers to connect your voltmeter.

And yes, the fuel pump must be running for a few seconds. I believe you should read approx. 12,5-13,5 V.

The fuel supply line to FD should deliver more, 2-3 liter if I remember correctly from my own test, because pressure is lower, i.e. no resistance from FD incl. pressure regulator (Pump curve tells us low pressure=high flow and high pressure=low flow). If the flow from supply line is low the pump is totally shot, or the line is restricted ... clogged filter, clogged pipe/hoses, clogged accumulator +++

The pressure regulator sits in the FD at the side where the return line is. I wouldn't touch it, without knowing what to do. Plenty of people here at the forum that can help you, if you need to "open it", check and adjust it.

AND PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN WORKING WITH FUEL, "IGNITION ON", VOLTMETER, etc. ... a fire extinguisher within reach is recommended.

 
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: revilla on 01 July 2022, 12:59 AM
Hi,
It seems like your mixture is off. I'd leave the pump and injectors aside for now. You have fuel going and your injectors even if not perfect would be enough to at least start the engine running rough. Weak pump and bad injectors/adaptors set would make your engine start even if rough. I would concentrate in the 3mm allen mixture screw that you played with.
Follow the thread below to find a baseline where at least the engine starts. Then focus on fine tuning. You can add a few drops of fuel directly into the FD plate while someone else cranks the engine. You don't need to jump the relay, there's a much easier technic described in the post:
Good luck.

https://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/1979-280-se-not-running-on-fuel/msg153464/#msg153464





 
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 01 July 2022, 03:06 AM
Quote from: revilla on 01 July 2022, 12:59 AMHi,
It seems like your mixture is off. I'd leave the pump and injectors aside for now. You have fuel going and your injectors even if not perfect would be enough to at least start the engine running rough. Weak pump and bad injectors/adaptors set would make your engine start even if rough. I would concentrate in the 3mm allen mixture screw that you played with.
Follow the thread below to find a baseline where at least the engine starts. Then focus on fine tuning. You can add a few drops of fuel directly into the FD plate while someone else cranks the engine. You don't need to jump the relay, there's a much easier technic described in the post:
Good luck.

https://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/1979-280-se-not-running-on-fuel/msg153464/#msg153464





 

Excellent, thanks.

I wonder if the new style injectors and holders require a slightly different mixture?

The old ones were working fine just the other day and the mixture was dialled in for them.

I will try adjusting the mixture screw for slight enrichment today after charging the battery.

If I get it running, I'll test the fuel delivery again.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: revilla on 01 July 2022, 06:40 AM
Perhaps your low fuel flow is related to the battery voltage being low (?)...
When removing the injectors, perhaps you removed the distributor cap and/or cables to gain access to injectors 1/2 ? If yes, were them reinstalled in the correct order?
I'm just guessing. Dropping a bit of fuel directly into de FD plate while cranking will give you an indication.
Definitely do the plate slight depression test described in the post to confirm gas in coming in the right proportion through the injectors and you have spark. This is key for combustion. I would avoid touching other components until you set the mixture first, otherwise you might loose traceability of the changes and the engine will never start. I'm confident you will get there.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 01 July 2022, 08:55 AM
Quote from: revilla on 01 July 2022, 06:40 AMPerhaps your low fuel flow is related to the battery voltage being low (?)...
When removing the injectors, perhaps you removed the distributor cap and/or cables to gain access to injectors 1/2 ? If yes, were them reinstalled in the correct order?
I'm just guessing. Dropping a bit of fuel directly into de FD plate while cranking will give you an indication.
Definitely do the plate slight depression test described in the post to confirm gas in coming in the right proportion through the injectors and you have spark. This is key for combustion. I would avoid touching other components until you set the mixture first, otherwise you might loose traceability of the changes and the engine will never start. I'm confident you will get there.

Eureka!

A quarter turn of the mixture screw and it started up first time.

Not only that, after a long run I tried to recreate the initial problem encountered before fitting injectors and spark plugs. Fixed!!

There is still a drop in revs when you take it out of park, but no stalling. Thank. God.

Next up I need to fit the new shocks I bought and change the transmission fluid and filter. Then I'll get back to the fuel tuning.

Many thanks.



Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: gurrier on 01 July 2022, 09:17 AM
This is like a TV Serial - finishing on a happy ending.  I preview of next season now provided.
Thanks for the infotainment SteveDuNord.!!
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: revilla on 01 July 2022, 11:42 AM
Wonderful!!!
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 01 July 2022, 12:27 PM
Quote from: gurrier on 01 July 2022, 09:17 AMThis is like a TV Serial - finishing on a happy ending.  I preview of next season now provided.
Thanks for the infotainment SteveDuNord.!!

Haha. Don't worry I'll be breaking something else soon.  :D

Just washed it for the first time in weeks and ignoring the various spots of rust, I'm reminded of why I bought it in the first place.

A good day.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Jan S on 01 July 2022, 12:51 PM
Wonderful indeed!

When you are ready for the next step the low return flow needs to be tackled. And system pressure and control pressure cold/warm need to be measured. Very important for a well functioning k-jet system.

We look forward to "next season"  :)
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: revilla on 01 July 2022, 01:28 PM
And with that wash, the frustrations that invade us all sometimes wash away too, at least temporarily... :)
A side effect of that joy is ignoring the "little" defects (eg rust spots, etc) that they might have. To wrap up the successful episode, a nice ride of a few kilometers is highly recommended by the doctors... :)
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 02 July 2022, 02:57 PM
Quote from: revilla on 01 July 2022, 01:28 PMAnd with that wash, the frustrations that invade us all sometimes wash away too, at least temporarily... :)
A side effect of that joy is ignoring the "little" defects (eg rust spots, etc) that they might have. To wrap up the successful episode, a nice ride of a few kilometers is highly recommended by the doctors... :)

Ha, indeed. Took it out for a long drive today. Went to a little Bay I'd been hoping to take my new car to, prior to disabling it.  ;D

(https://i.postimg.cc/jjpx6cmH/mercBay.jpg)

(not my dog)

(https://i.postimg.cc/G2PCFCkR/baydog.jpg)

Car performed faultlessly. Treated it to the highest octane fuel available locally, 97 RON.
Only issue was the sunroof failing to close when the storm clouds were looming, almost chopped off a finger lifting the offending flap.

Once the rain started, and boy did it start, I noticed the fast setting on the wipers doesn't work - could barely see!

Otherwise, delighted. Love the little sewing machine engine. And it's much more nimble than I expected.  8)
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 08 July 2022, 04:43 PM
Well having struggled to change the transmission fluid without jacking up the car (quick piece of advice - don't do this), I am now ready to set about with the fuel pressure testing.

Here's the rub: what kind of fittings do I need for my m110 engine?

This kit has the little round fittings, I think they're for banjo bolts as found on the WUR?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183950579736
(https://i.postimg.cc/J4jHJNsH/s-l1600.jpg)

Whereas this kit has normal looking bolts:

https://kurth-classics-autoparts.de/gb/warm-up-regulator-wur/227-k-jetronic-pressure-testing-gauge.html
(https://i.postimg.cc/T1MYYsq7/k-jetronic-pressure-testing-gauge.jpg)

Both Kjet specific. Anyone know which one I need?
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 09 July 2022, 08:46 AM
A variety of fittings can be found here:

https://belmetric.com/fittings-plugs/banjo-fittings/
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Jan S on 10 July 2022, 03:28 PM
I have the pressure tester in the first pic. Works great and fits k-jet.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 11 July 2022, 08:56 AM
Thanks chaps, have ordered the kit.
In the meantime, I decided to do a valve clearance adjustment.

The cover is dirty, especially down in the spark plug wells - black! And the nuts are rusty. So ugly.

(https://i.postimg.cc/qvBzZWnP/valve1.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/FsfMQXkM/valve12.jpg)

The underside is awful, but caked on and probably not a problem.

(https://i.postimg.cc/SQtTspQr/valve2.jpg)

Cam lobes look good (?) and the chain is nice and tight.

(https://i.postimg.cc/k5m9pbkB/valve5.jpg)

27mm socket to turn the lobes in the right direction.

(https://i.postimg.cc/SNgMqyyS/valve4.jpg)

A 17mm spanner worked ok but would sometimes act like the nut is rounded off. Enter this socket, which worked a treat. These valve nuts are tough to turn!

(https://i.postimg.cc/vBxJ8HRp/valve6.jpg)

Lots and lots of scrubbing, sanding, dish soap, wd40 - whatever I had to hand. The nuts were horrible, but I managed to get a nice patina look going. Took a while....

(https://i.postimg.cc/QtWML3fM/valve7.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/28yKCS4T/valve8.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/T14QKnr0/valve9.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/P5ZKqpNb/valve10.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/KYDNn6PR/valve11.jpg)

Intake adjusted to 0.10, outtake to 0.25. And a nice new replacement gasket.
Nuts tightened to 5 nm as advised recently on this very forum.

Drives great now. The accelerator pedal actually works.  ;D





Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 11 July 2022, 01:27 PM
A clean car is a happy car!
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: johnnyw116 on 12 July 2022, 05:03 AM
Great job !
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 15 July 2022, 11:49 AM
Since fiddling with the mixture screw, which had fixed the warm stalling in gear issue, I've been experiencing a hesitation to turn over from cold.

Today the hot restart stall issue resurfaced, and having the steering wheel on full lock instigated the process - which implies a vacuum issue, but I have no leaks.

I'm musing on the fact that the mixture can be adjusted to achieve best vacuum.

Maybe the mixture needs readjusting.

I dunno! Will experiment tomorrow.

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 15 July 2022, 04:29 PM
There are 2 paths of hesitation (taking a while to fire up?) cold starting.
1. your injectors leak and the engine is too rich when you try and start it.
2. your cold start injector isnt working.

" I've been experiencing a hesitation to turn over from cold"
Please describe what that means.


timing will affect the vacuum, I dont think the mixture will.
An old school method of setting the timing to to set it where the vacuum is highest at idle and then reference that with a timing light.

hot restart is sometimes a bad fuel accumulator. - the pressure leaks out and then it takes longer to get gas back to the engine.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 16 July 2022, 03:36 AM
I mean that it won't fire over first time. Complicating the matter is the fact that there is an issue with the gear selector (probably bushes). So recently it would start only in N, but if you cycle through the gears it would start in P.

It's all connected!  :o

I've found that you can indeed affect the vacuum with the mixture screw, for whatever that's worth.


I haven't touched the timing yet. Need a timing light.

The accumulator was last changed in 2015 according to service records, along with fuel pump and filter. It would certainly tie in with the fuelling issues. (Maybe would explain the low return volume?).

2019 it had the tank cleaned out.

When the fuel pressure kit arrives things will really kick on. I'm trying to avoid more parts swapping. ;D 

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: johnnyw116 on 16 July 2022, 05:53 AM
I had in the past an bad fuel accumulator on my 280Se the cold start was ok , but when i parked the car with an hot engine and after about 30/60 minutes i wanted to restart the car again i had to crank it for 30 seconds to get the engine running again , it started similar like starting an flooded engine , in my case after replacing the fuel accumulator it solved the hot start issue
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 16 July 2022, 06:39 AM
Quote from: johnnyw116 on 16 July 2022, 05:53 AMI had in the past an bad fuel accumulator on my 280Se the cold start was ok , but when i parked the car with an hot engine and after about 30/60 minutes i wanted to restart the car again i had to crank it for 30 seconds to get the engine running again , it started similar like starting an flooded engine , in my case after replacing the fuel accumulator it solved the hot start issue

My issue is different in that it will restart when warm, but revs drop when you put it in gear, applying accelerator causes a stall, and turning the wheel makes it worse - presumably because it affects vacuum.

Could be WUR. Accumulator. Who knows?
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 16 July 2022, 11:47 AM
I would start with checking the the fuel accumulator, though I am not sure exactly how, someone may know.

2nd I would check the timing, as that is an essential part of having engine run properly.  Remember  that the vac valve for auto tran needs to be disconnected, though again someone can verify that.

Once those 2 items are ruled out then a fuel pressure check, and finally the FD is then suspect and may need rebuilt.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Jan S on 17 July 2022, 03:13 PM
When kit arrives check:

- system pressure
- drop in system pressure, i.e. drop in system pressure when engine is stopped ... system pressure after 2 min ... 4 min .... 6 min .... 8 min .... 10 min .... 12 min up to 20 min or longer (that will tell you if the accumulator is ok or not)
- control pressure cold and during warm up for about 15 min

Those three things will tell "a whole story"
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 18 July 2022, 06:21 AM
Cheers! Kit arrived today so I'll wait for the heatwave to pass and get testing in a couple of days.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Type17 on 19 July 2022, 03:33 PM
My car had a dead fuel accumulator when I bought it, but everything else (mixture, fuel pressures, WUR, etc) was fine.

The symptoms were:
Cold start (overnight, or after about 1 hour) - fires up quickly, no problem
Hot restart (within 1-4 minutes of shutoff) - still no problem
Warm restart (within 5-60 minutes of shutoff) - fires instantly for half a second, but then stalls. Then it takes about 8-12 seconds of cranking to catch, but everything runs fine after that.

If the symptoms aren't exactly like that, the accumulator may be ok, and it's something else, or the accumulator may be faulty, but there are also other issues.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 20 July 2022, 06:04 AM
About to embark upon the fuel pressure test and guess what? Immediate stumbling block!  ::)

My WUR has two steel fuel lines running into it, one of which is fouling the other. I can't remove the one I need to attach the fuel pressure kit to.

(https://i.postimg.cc/0QjzLwj6/WUR.jpg)

I'm hoping once I've removed the smaller fitting, it well let me bend the fuel line enough to fit the tester line.

Swear I'm cursed.

Also, it doesn't look like a banjo fitting to me, so do I just screw straight into it, or use a banjo fitting as supplied with the kit? I suppose screw straight into it. I'll probably explode.

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: daantjie on 20 July 2022, 06:40 AM
Quote from: SteveDuNord on 20 July 2022, 06:04 AMAbout to embark upon the fuel pressure test and guess what? Immediate stumbling block!  ::)

My WUR has two steel fuel lines running into it, one of which is fouling the other. I can't remove the one I need to attach the fuel pressure kit to.

(https://i.postimg.cc/0QjzLwj6/WUR.jpg)

I'm hoping once I've removed the smaller fitting, it well let me bend the fuel line enough to fit the tester line.

Swear I'm cursed.

Also, it doesn't look like a banjo fitting to me, so do I just screw straight into it, or use a banjo fitting as supplied with the kit? I suppose screw straight into it. I'll probably explode.



Soak in PB Blaster overnight.  Go slow and use counter hold.  It's normal for them to be tight after all these years, usually rust bonded.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 20 July 2022, 06:51 AM
Quote from: daantjie on 20 July 2022, 06:40 AMSoak in PB Blaster overnight.  Go slow and use counter hold.  It's normal for them to be tight after all these years, usually rust bonded.

You misunderstand: they're not corroded, they're hard steel fuel lines that don't want to budge - especially the one I need to move in order to attach the pressure gauge fitting.

I had to bend it, and now it won't go back into shape. I can only get one hand in there. The WUR will remain disconnected until I find a solution. I don't understand the thinking behind this design, it's like they never expected anybody to mess with it.  ???

The testing kit I bought doesn't come with the correct fitting, I realise that banjo bolts are good for 99% of kjets but not this one.

Instead I have what looks like a 11/12mm threaded fitting, the same kind fitted to the fuel distributor and injectors.

I swear this car with be the death of me.  ;D

Oh hold on, the seller of the test kit said read the instructions. Apparently I also need to remove the threaded part of the WUR fitting in order to fit the supplied banjo bolt.

Always read the instructions.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 20 July 2022, 07:46 AM
You will need to use a T fitting. You could also fit it to the other end of the line.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 20 July 2022, 09:24 AM
A lot of photos for such little progress but just in case it helps someone in the future:

These are the offending fittings, the larger of which needs to be removed:

(https://i.postimg.cc/QCq8dg2D/wur2.jpg)

I rounded off the larger nut trying to get purchase with the spanner - the smaller one gets in the way, so both need to come off.
Here's the wee one, which came out easily enough.

(https://i.postimg.cc/Gh7RgprX/wur3.jpg)

There's precious little room down there, and you'd have to remove the oil filter etc in order to get at it from beneath the car. Which would be a mess.

So with the wee nut removed you can get the spanner on the big nut, but of course it would not budge:

(https://i.postimg.cc/ZRRFcjL7/wur4.jpg)

Sprayed on plenty of wd40 (of course I only have a giant can that barely fit down there  ;D  )

and I'll take Daantjie's advice and leave it overnight. I think a gorilla must have screwed this one on!

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 20 July 2022, 12:41 PM
You could remove the WUR from the car to get the stubborn one off. A 6 point socket would be a better grip than a spanner.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: daantjie on 20 July 2022, 01:42 PM
Quote from: rumb on 20 July 2022, 12:41 PMYou could remove the WUR from the car to get the stubborn one off.

Indeed this is a good tip then you can safely heat the offending coupling with a propane flame then let it cool and it should break loose.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 20 July 2022, 04:41 PM
Quote from: rumb on 20 July 2022, 12:41 PMYou could remove the WUR from the car to get the stubborn one off. A 6 point socket would be a better grip than a spanner.

That might be my next step, the only problem being access to one of the mounting nuts which is tight. Why'd they have to bolt it to the side of the engine?  ;D
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 21 July 2022, 07:33 AM
WUR off!

(https://i.postimg.cc/Zqf2MPwM/wur5.jpg)

And cleaned up a bit

(https://i.postimg.cc/Hs4SN4x9/wur6.jpg)

Bathed in wd40 - oops! Checked the disconnected hoses and found no oil in them, so definitely not blowback.

(https://i.postimg.cc/SRbrTJbP/wur7.jpg)

Might as well test while it's off. I believe this reading is correct.

(https://i.postimg.cc/CLLDFj7N/wur8.jpg)

Plenty of contact cleaner to get rid of the oil:

(https://i.postimg.cc/HxYWQtVv/wur9.jpg)

Managed to break the larger fitting with a spanner and hammer: look at this gunk in the filter screen:

(https://i.postimg.cc/Gmbc0QjL/wur10.jpg)

And finally I can attach the banjo fitting. Same done with the top of Fuel distributor. Testing can commence!

(https://i.postimg.cc/RFLRYvCV/wur11.jpg)

Car wouldn't start so I jumped the fuel pump.

Control pressure:
With pump running 4.3 bar.
Pump stopped 3.1 bar.

System Pressure:
er, virtually the same readings. 4.4 with pump running, so slightly higher.

Am I doing something wrong? I made sure to shut off the valve for System Pressure.

Checked the gauge and it hadn't dropped much 30/45 mins later. So not likely accumulator related. But maybe.

Will repeat later and see if I can't test with engine running.








Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 21 July 2022, 08:50 AM
Ok so this time I turned the mixture screw a 1/4 turn to the right and voila, engine started.

Valve open 4.4 bar (i.e almost 5 bar, just to be clear).
Valve shut 5 (just over)

Connected WUR electric connector. Valve open.
Ran engine for a little while:
Just under 5
Rose to just over 5.

Engine off
3 bar
+ 10 mins 2.4 1/2
+ 20 mins 2.4

Not much of a drop. So a physical check of the accumulator will be needed.

One thing to note - the disconnected hard line to the WUR is dribbling a tiny amount of fuel. Nobody mentioned anything about that!  :o I suppose it could be residual fuel?
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Jan S on 21 July 2022, 12:16 PM
I'm not sure I understand your readings.

When the car is cold and the valve is open (control pressure) you should be measuring in the area of 1 bar, maybe 2 bar if your ambient temperature is high e.g. 30 deg C. When the car is warm it should be in the area of 3 bar plus/minus. This all depends on the spec of your WUR.

What is the last 3 digits on your WUR? The number is 0 438 140 XYZ ... what is XYZ?

System pressure (valve closed) should be 5-6 bar.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 21 July 2022, 03:16 PM
Quote from: Jan S on 21 July 2022, 12:16 PMI'm not sure I understand your readings.

When the car is cold and the valve is open (control pressure) you should be measuring in the area of 1 bar, maybe 2 bar if your ambient temperature is high e.g. 30 deg C. When the car is warm it should be in the area of 3 bar plus/minus. This all depends on the spec of your WUR.

What is the last 3 digits on your WUR? The number is 0 438 140 XYZ ... what is XYZ?

System pressure (valve closed) should be 5-6 bar.

I'll be able to tell you tomorrow when I whip it back off. I didn't realise the gauze filter is actually several layers of gauze, so I'll be taking them out for a good clean.

My control pressure is way high, 4.4 bar. From what I've read, it's likely to be WUR related.

I also need to run the return flow test again because last time it was low. I think a fuel filter change would be wise.

The system pressure is fine by the looks of things (around 5). So that's something.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: raueda1 on 26 July 2022, 09:59 PM
Quote from: SteveDuNord on 21 July 2022, 03:16 PM
Quote from: Jan S on 21 July 2022, 12:16 PMI'm not sure I understand your readings.

When the car is cold and the valve is open (control pressure) you should be measuring in the area of 1 bar, maybe 2 bar if your ambient temperature is high e.g. 30 deg C. When the car is warm it should be in the area of 3 bar plus/minus. This all depends on the spec of your WUR.

What is the last 3 digits on your WUR? The number is 0 438 140 XYZ ... what is XYZ?

System pressure (valve closed) should be 5-6 bar.

I'll be able to tell you tomorrow when I whip it back off. I didn't realise the gauze filter is actually several layers of gauze, so I'll be taking them out for a good clean.

My control pressure is way high, 4.4 bar. From what I've read, it's likely to be WUR related.

I also need to run the return flow test again because last time it was low. I think a fuel filter change would be wise.

The system pressure is fine by the looks of things (around 5). So that's something.
Hey Steve, I'm late to this thread but anything related to K-tronic gets my interest.  Quick question - are you moving through the troubleshooting sequence covered in the K-jet troubleshooting manual?  It's in the manuals section. I ask cause there seems to be a bit of jumping around.  Here's a suggestion:  Start at the beginning of the manual and go in sequence.  For example, if your fuel pump volume and return line aren't perefect nothing else will be either.  Don't ask me how I know this.  But I do and I keep relearning it.   ???   Cheers,
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 28 July 2022, 03:50 AM
Quote from: raueda1 on 26 July 2022, 09:59 PM
Quote from: SteveDuNord on 21 July 2022, 03:16 PM
Quote from: Jan S on 21 July 2022, 12:16 PMI'm not sure I understand your readings.

When the car is cold and the valve is open (control pressure) you should be measuring in the area of 1 bar, maybe 2 bar if your ambient temperature is high e.g. 30 deg C. When the car is warm it should be in the area of 3 bar plus/minus. This all depends on the spec of your WUR.

What is the last 3 digits on your WUR? The number is 0 438 140 XYZ ... what is XYZ?

System pressure (valve closed) should be 5-6 bar.

I'll be able to tell you tomorrow when I whip it back off. I didn't realise the gauze filter is actually several layers of gauze, so I'll be taking them out for a good clean.

My control pressure is way high, 4.4 bar. From what I've read, it's likely to be WUR related.

I also need to run the return flow test again because last time it was low. I think a fuel filter change would be wise.

The system pressure is fine by the looks of things (around 5). So that's something.
Hey Steve, I'm late to this thread but anything related to K-tronic gets my interest.  Quick question - are you moving through the troubleshooting sequence covered in the K-jet troubleshooting manual?  It's in the manuals section. I ask cause there seems to be a bit of jumping around.  Here's a suggestion:  Start at the beginning of the manual and go in sequence.  For example, if your fuel pump volume and return line aren't perefect nothing else will be either.  Don't ask me how I know this.  But I do and I keep relearning it.   ???   Cheers,

I have been following kjet guides but the service manual guide is great, so thanks for the heads up. Starts with inspecting the throttle linkage which is something I'm interested in addressing.

Jumping around? Guilty!

My fuel filter arrived but I'm thinking of handing this over to a mechanic because I'm reluctant to jack this big boy up. They can also fit my new shocks and change the brake fluid.

In the meantime I had the WUR back off for a strip down. I attempted to remove the gauze screens for inspection but they wouldn't budge. In the end I jabbed a hole in the screen (actually stacked gauze screens). Some people just remove them, so am not overly concerned.

Also attempted to inspect FD fuel inlet filter, but found mine is more of an integral metal bud rather than replaceable filter. The part is called a divider rather than filter. I bought a new one as it's pretty cheap and the connection was leaking after refitting.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0068MSDLW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1MI0LOLD9ZMHB&psc=1

Performed another flow test with a fully charged battery, ended up with just over half a litre in 1min. Which is nowhere near enough.

I'll get the garage to do another flow test after changing the filter and see if a new pump is required. The tank was flushed just a couple of years back, so fingers crossed.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 29 July 2022, 03:33 PM
Had my garage door fixed today which meant I could drag the 3 tonne jack straight to the car. So I decided to tackle the fuel filter after all.

I read up on jacking points (thank you w116 forum archive) and cracked on with the fuel filter change. Well, removal...

jacked:

(https://i.postimg.cc/rytmpDjn/fuel-filter1.jpg)

The crusty cradle was a pain. Fortunately I had a long 8mm (I think) socket, and popped a spanner on the nut situated on the other side. Fiddly.

(https://i.postimg.cc/cCQ0B85d/fuelfilter2-JPG.jpg)

Unfortunately the filter to pump hose nut was welded on, making it impossible to unscrew the other end of the filter from its hose. At this point I'm cursing the car again!

(https://i.postimg.cc/8zcx16Bs/fuelfilter3.jpg)

Eureka moment as I realised there was enough slack to pull the filter out of the cradle and screw away. Phew. Filter is dated 2019 as per service records. Unlikely to be the cause of my fuel delivery problem but hey ho.

(https://i.postimg.cc/XqHqC5ZX/fuel-filter8.jpg)


Once dangling I could slip the hose off. A good feeling.

The nut was rounded off, making spanners useless, luckily I had another long socket that was willing to bite.

But still, how to apply enough torque for removal? That's right: stripy socks and a mallet.

(https://i.postimg.cc/wjNccx90/fuelfilter5.jpg)

Now I'm really delighted. All that's left is the screw the nut back into the filter and replace.

But no, the thread in the old filter was butchered. they'd added some sort of thread lock to stop it leaking. It will not mate with the new filter.  >:(

(https://i.postimg.cc/XYxFgrTK/fuelfilter6.jpg)

So I'm thinking either
a) the filter is wrong. (The old one is the same as the one I ordered. Mahle KL- 19).

b) The nut/fitting is wrong:

(https://i.postimg.cc/qqYDqmGR/fuelfilter7.jpg)

Thoughts?

I've seen other Mercs use a banjo fitting on the fuel pump end and filter end both. Maybe this part was never the right one??







Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: johnnyw116 on 29 July 2022, 07:42 PM
yes that nut fitting is wrong and they also butchered the banjo hose , so you need an new banjo hose between pump and filter , and you also need the hollow banjo bolt for fitting the new banjo hose on the fuel filter an four 12x16 washers , i checked at niemoeler the part numbers the fuel hose you need is part number: 123 470 06 and the banjo bolt has part number :915036008202 but according to niemoeler this part is NLA maybe the bolt has an new part number ? but on google i checked this 915036008202 and i saw this banjo bolt also on autodoc
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 30 July 2022, 03:38 AM
Quote from: johnnyw116 on 29 July 2022, 07:42 PMyes that nut fitting is wrong and they also butchered the banjo hose , so you need an new banjo hose between pump and filter , and you also need the hollow banjo bolt for fitting the new banjo hose on the fuel filter an four 12x16 washers , i checked at niemoeler the part numbers the fuel hose you need is part number: 123 470 06 and the banjo bolt has part number :915036008202 but according to niemoeler this part is NLA maybe the bolt has an new part number ? but on google i checked this 915036008202 and i saw this banjo bolt also on autodoc

Thanks very much.

I found this hose last night and think it might be the one I need?
https://parts.theslshop.com/mercedes-benz-sl-r107-w116-w123-pump-filter-fuel-line-1234700675/

And if the bolts are m12 I wonder if these would be compatible?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AUTOHAUX-Diameter-Banjo-Washer-Motorcycle/dp/B088QLPZSB/ref=asc_df_B088QLPZSB/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=500890667741&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16399782015867408704&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007282&hvtargid=pla-1380214669152&psc=1

These are the only UK based solutions I've found so far.
Edit: probably a better idea to get the banjo bolts shipped from Autodoc! At least I know they'll be compatible.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: johnnyw116 on 30 July 2022, 04:21 AM
Yes that is the hose you need , i seem to have lost the last two numbers when i was copying the partnummer 123 470 06 75 , and that bolt size is M12x1.50 , you can also order that hose at the local MB dealership and i think it is about the same price there and maybe they can also help you out with that banjo bolt
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 30 July 2022, 08:16 AM
Quote from: johnnyw116 on 30 July 2022, 04:21 AMYes that is the hose you need , i seem to have lost the last two numbers when i was copying the partnummer 123 470 06 75 , and that bolt size is M12x1.50 , you can also order that hose at the local MB dealership and i think it is about the same price there and maybe they can also help you out with that banjo bolt

Good idea, will ring them on Monday.  8)

Managed to get them ordered in. The hose was around the same price as SL shop and the banjo bolts were £13 each - the guy found a part number that had superseded the the 9150 number. I bought two, might as well replace the pump bolt while I'm there. Can pick them up on wednesday so that's much more convenient.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: s class on 07 August 2022, 01:05 PM
Those fuel filters have a specific flow direction indicated by an arrow, and it looks to me like that old one was installed backwards
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 07 August 2022, 05:10 PM
Quote from: s class on 07 August 2022, 01:05 PMThose fuel filters have a specific flow direction indicated by an arrow, and it looks to me like that old one was installed backwards

I think that might be because of my photos?

One end is an olive (?) nut connection and the other is for a banjo bolt, so I'm not sure you can go wrong.

Meanwhile, I collected the correct banjo bolt from Mercedes, but it didn't come with any copper washers. I bought some from an autoparts shop, but apparently they can leak because they are much harder than the ones Mercedes use.

I tightened the hell out of it using a 17mm spanner on the opposite end for grip:

(https://i.postimg.cc/t4YgR6QW/pump1.png)

Here is my shiny new hose installed. It weeps just a tiny amount from the banjo bolt, so I'll order some OEM washers.

(https://i.postimg.cc/bJjYRFG9/pump2.jpg)

Did another pressure test - no change. 5 bar system and control pressure. But at least I have a new filter on... I will check the flow tomorrow but imagine it will still be below spec. Maybe a new fuel pump is required.

I also received my new fuel distributor inlet filter. The old one - which has a metal gauze strainer bud - is shorter, but the fitting is correct.

Good job I bought extra washers because it also came without any.

(https://i.postimg.cc/VvfYxrWS/pump3.jpg)

Problem - the engine started knocking and spluttering on startup. (ignore! Throttle linkage was caught on fuel line)

I wondered whether the new FD filter had fixed a flow issue, which might have caused a super rich mixture setting.
I tried to adjust the mixture screw (3mm allen) but the wrench wouldn't bite. Just kept turning around.
(Doh - was using a 2.5mm allen wrench) :D

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 19 September 2022, 01:37 AM
Well I finally  got time to fit a new fuel pump courtesy of the good people at Bosch.

Covered myself in litres of fuel until I realised where to clamp the fuel hose. ;D

(https://i.postimg.cc/6QnWnj0K/6-D54-AD2-B-A8-C2-45-BB-8-B31-CAEB801-D8-E8-C.jpg)

And wouldn't you know it? The fitting is too small for the hose, here's the new and old pumps alongside each other. I'm pretty sure they're both Bosch but the size/shape is different.

(https://i.postimg.cc/JzT6KMpc/43-F6-F308-9556-4-AC6-AE3-F-6570-CAE1-BDF1.jpg)

The instructions for the pump show two different sized screw in fuel hose connectors, one larger than the other. Mine only came with the smaller one.

I bought BOSCH 0 580 464 202

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/17008003

It's possible that the old pump was ordered incorrectly, a late 1977 version, whereas my car is early 77. Records show that the mechanic also made up new fuel lines. Maybe he chose a hose that matched the pump he had ordered? We've already discovered that he butchered the fitting for the filter!

 I should have measured the fuel damper connector diameter while the wheel was off. They also come in different sizes. Gah! New hose and try again.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: raueda1 on 19 September 2022, 12:12 PM
I just went through the exact same stuff.  It seems that all the components stuff back there went through changes in fittings over the years so there's no single answer. I got my fuel pump from Classic Center - a little more expensive but better confidence that it would be right.  It came with a bunch of fittings to make it work, which it did. At the end of the day you just need to cobble together the fittings that are needed.  Keep an eye on that hose.  Mine failed in just 3 years!

Also, you actually CAN reuse copper washers.  Just heat until brightly glowing with a torch and quench in water. They'll be soft again and good as new unless severely damaged.  Cheers,
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 19 September 2022, 03:31 PM
Here's a pic from the pump instructions.

Mine is in the middle. If you have the banjo bolt on one end, you're meant to have a 12mm fitting on the other. Which is how it arrived.

(https://i.postimg.cc/N0FCZPzv/pump.jpg)

I've ordered a short length of 12m id fuel hose and hopefully the damper has the 12mm fitting too, otherwise we go again.  ::)
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 28 September 2022, 04:27 PM
Managed to get the new pump on using the existing fuel hose (new hose was too small for the damper, absolute pita).

It's dark, I'm late for dinner, managed to get everything to stop leaking and guess what? One of the electrical connecter threads snapped.

(https://i.postimg.cc/65yGzQQj/pumpsnap.jpg)

Just like the front shock absorber I recently tried to fit. Snapped bolt - leaving me sh*t out of luck. I hate this car!!

Here's the old pump. I'm praying that if I remove the blue plastic I'll see that the threads can be removed so I can add it to the new pump. Short of that, I could solder the lead to the pump, but have no appetite to solder near fuel.

(https://i.postimg.cc/x8bnJB0R/pumpsnap2.jpg)

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 19 June 2023, 06:27 AM
Has it really been 9 months since I last started this car?

Well, having wasted money on a new Bosch fuel pump (see above), I finally got around to fitting my cheapo ebay pump. Didn't bother jacking her up, and everything went swimmingly. Fired right up!

Performed the fuel return test this morning and voila - heading towards a litre after maybe 15 seconds.  8) So it was definitely worth changing the pump.

(https://i.postimg.cc/d1qcpVLF/fuel.jpg)

I felt sure that the pressure test would now show perfectly normal readings, and that all my warm start issues would be behind me.

Nope.  >:(

Still getting 5.1 bar on system and control pressures (valve open/valve closed). No difference whether WUR is connected or unplugged. Fuel cap on or off.

Having already serviced the WUR, and changed the FD fuel inlet filter, I am at a loss as to what my issue is. Damper is functioning as normal according to gauge.

Anyone?

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: raueda1 on 20 June 2023, 08:07 AM
Quote from: SteveDuNord on 19 June 2023, 06:27 AMHas it really been 9 months since I last started this car?

Well, having wasted money on a new Bosch fuel pump (see above), I finally got around to fitting my cheapo ebay pump. Didn't bother jacking her up, and everything went swimmingly. Fired right up!

Performed the fuel return test this morning and voila - heading towards a litre after maybe 15 seconds.  8) So it was definitely worth changing the pump.

(https://i.postimg.cc/d1qcpVLF/fuel.jpg)

I felt sure that the pressure test would now show perfectly normal readings, and that all my warm start issues would be behind me.

Nope.  >:(

Still getting 5.1 bar on system and control pressures (valve open/valve closed). No difference whether WUR is connected or unplugged. Fuel cap on or off.

Having already serviced the WUR, and changed the FD fuel inlet filter, I am at a loss as to what my issue is. Damper is functioning as normal according to gauge.

Anyone?
Huh, I responded earleir but it somehow didn't post.  Not the first time that this has happened to me, maybe it timed out.  Anyway,  First, are you absolutely sure that the fuel return line is clear?  If not check that first. It needs to b e REALLY clear.  Just being able to blow high pressure air through may deceive you, it can be occluded enough to mess up the return flow. Disintegration of the hose between the steel line and tank is a known issue.

Failing that, our colleague Feather535 recently suffered from a very similar problem, as have I.  It took a long and circuitous road to getting solved but he did and is now happily working on new problems.  Anyway, I suggest finding his threads (there may be a couple) and carefully following beginning to end.  At a minimum some of the key CIS troubleshooting issues will be revealed.  At least you'll come away with some ideas.  Cheers,
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 20 June 2023, 12:22 PM
Quote from: raueda1 on 20 June 2023, 08:07 AMHuh, I responded earleir but it somehow didn't post.  Not the first time that this has happened to me, maybe it timed out.  Anyway,  First, are you absolutely sure that the fuel return line is clear?  If not check that first. It needs to b e REALLY clear.  Just being able to blow high pressure air through may deceive you, it can be occluded enough to mess up the return flow. Disintegration of the hose between the steel line and tank is a known issue.

Failing that, our colleague Feather535 recently suffered from a very similar problem, as have I.  It took a long and circuitous road to getting solved but he did and is now happily working on new problems.  Anyway, I suggest finding his threads (there may be a couple) and carefully following beginning to end.  At a minimum some of the key CIS troubleshooting issues will be revealed.  At least you'll come away with some ideas.  Cheers,

Thanks. I'll take a look.

Just so we're on the same page here: all I've established is that the return flow was low (measured from the FD), but a new pump has solved that problem.

Are you suggesting checking the flow actually gets all the way back to the tank, with no blockage? I wouldn't know where to start and have no high pressure air source to perform that kind of test. I'll have to look into it.

Would a partially constricted return flow affect cold start control pressure?

I was leaning towards a busted/blocked WUR...
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: raueda1 on 21 June 2023, 06:51 AM
Quote from: SteveDuNord on 20 June 2023, 12:22 PM
Quote from: raueda1 on 20 June 2023, 08:07 AMHuh, I responded earleir but it somehow didn't post.  Not the first time that this has happened to me, maybe it timed out.  Anyway,  First, are you absolutely sure that the fuel return line is clear?  If not check that first. It needs to b e REALLY clear.  Just being able to blow high pressure air through may deceive you, it can be occluded enough to mess up the return flow. Disintegration of the hose between the steel line and tank is a known issue.

Failing that, our colleague Feather535 recently suffered from a very similar problem, as have I.  It took a long and circuitous road to getting solved but he did and is now happily working on new problems.  Anyway, I suggest finding his threads (there may be a couple) and carefully following beginning to end.  At a minimum some of the key CIS troubleshooting issues will be revealed.  At least you'll come away with some ideas.  Cheers,

Thanks. I'll take a look.

Just so we're on the same page here: all I've established is that the return flow was low (measured from the FD), but a new pump has solved that problem.

Are you suggesting checking the flow actually gets all the way back to the tank, with no blockage? I wouldn't know where to start and have no high pressure air source to perform that kind of test. I'll have to look into it.

Would a partially constricted return flow affect cold start control pressure?

I was leaning towards a busted/blocked WUR...
Exactly.  If fuel return in blocked or restricted too much then [system pressure] = [control pressure].  So check this first before going down the WUR rabbit hole.  Blowing compressed air through the return is just one way. You can try just blowing through the return tube but that's very hard to do and you need to blow out the fuel in the line before hearing bubbles in the tank.

Here's another way:  disconnect the fuel return line from FD.  Hook up a tube out of the FD into a container, similar to the fuel flow test.  Run fuel pump and check pressures.  If the fuel return is blocked AND the WUR is actually OK then your control pressure should now be ok cause you removed the cause of the back pressure against the system.  Hope that makes sense.  There's no guarentee that this will solve the problem, but it's easy.  And if fuel return is constricted then there's no hope of ever getting the rest right.  So give it a shot.  good luck and cheers,
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 21 June 2023, 10:35 AM
Quote from: raueda1 on 21 June 2023, 06:51 AMExactly.  If fuel return in blocked or restricted too much then [system pressure] = [control pressure].  So check this first before going down the WUR rabbit hole.  Blowing compressed air through the return is just one way. You can try just blowing through the return tube but that's very hard to do and you need to blow out the fuel in the line before hearing bubbles in the tank.

Here's another way:  disconnect the fuel return line from FD.  Hook up a tube out of the FD into a container, similar to the fuel flow test.  Run fuel pump and check pressures.  If the fuel return is blocked AND the WUR is actually OK then your control pressure should now be ok cause you removed the cause of the back pressure against the system.  Hope that makes sense.  There's no guarentee that this will solve the problem, but it's easy.  And if fuel return is constricted then there's no hope of ever getting the rest right.  So give it a shot.  good luck and cheers,

Okay, if I'm understanding you correctly I could just disconnect the fuel return hose at the hard line (as per the fuel flow test), initially, and then check control pressure.

Obviously if that didn't produce any changes in the readings, I would then do as you suggest and eliminate the possibility of any blockage coming before the hard line by repeating the test via a hose connected directly at the FD?

I'd be potentially saving myself some hassle that way.  :D
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: raueda1 on 21 June 2023, 11:30 AM
Quote from: SteveDuNord on 21 June 2023, 10:35 AM
Quote from: raueda1 on 21 June 2023, 06:51 AMExactly.  If fuel return in blocked or restricted too much then [system pressure] = [control pressure].  So check this first before going down the WUR rabbit hole.  Blowing compressed air through the return is just one way. You can try just blowing through the return tube but that's very hard to do and you need to blow out the fuel in the line before hearing bubbles in the tank.

Here's another way:  disconnect the fuel return line from FD.  Hook up a tube out of the FD into a container, similar to the fuel flow test.  Run fuel pump and check pressures. If the fuel return is blocked AND the WUR is actually OK then your control pressure should now be ok cause you removed the cause of the back pressure against the system.  Hope that makes sense.  There's no guarentee that this will solve the problem, but it's easy.  And if fuel return is constricted then there's no hope of ever getting the rest right.  So give it a shot.  good luck and cheers,

Okay, if I'm understanding you correctly I could just disconnect the fuel return hose at the hard line (as per the fuel flow test), initially, and then check control pressure.

Obviously if that didn't produce any changes in the readings, I would then do as you suggest and eliminate the possibility of any blockage coming before the hard line by repeating the test via a hose connected directly at the FD?

I'd be potentially saving myself some hassle that way.  :D
That's it.  Makes sense to me but I've struggled with this stuff too.  Others may have further comments.   
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 22 June 2023, 04:34 AM
Quote from: raueda1 on 21 June 2023, 11:30 AM
Quote from: SteveDuNord on 21 June 2023, 10:35 AM
Quote from: raueda1 on 21 June 2023, 06:51 AMOkay, if I'm understanding you correctly I could just disconnect the fuel return hose at the hard line (as per the fuel flow test), initially, and then check control pressure.

Obviously if that didn't produce any changes in the readings, I would then do as you suggest and eliminate the possibility of any blockage coming before the hard line by repeating the test via a hose connected directly at the FD?

I'd be potentially saving myself some hassle that way.  :D
That's it.  Makes sense to me but I've struggled with this stuff too.  Others may have further comments.   

Well I performed the CP test with the return line disconnected and it made no difference. Before repeating the test with a pipe attached directly to the return line union at the FD, I will move on to the next potential culprit.

There is a hard line leading directly to the WUR from the FD, is it worth cracking that with a spanner to see if there's a drop in CP?

Which reminds me: given that the WUR is unplugged for cold CP tests, am I right in assuming that it acts as nothing more than a conduit for the flow of fuel? That being the case, we are only really testing for a flow restriction at the WUR (mesh screen or hard line blocked), correct?

I've also read that inspecting the fuel pressure regulator at the FD is advised. But where is it? Well I'm guessing it's the flat nut on the left of this image, with the 4mm allen key in the centre?

(https://i.postimg.cc/RZMNZcRp/Fuel-Pressure-Reg.jpg)

I couldn't get the nut or the allen key to budge, so am leaving that alone for now.

The fitting to the right of the PR goes back to the WUR, I cracked it until fuel started to weep but the CP did not change.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 24 June 2023, 09:25 AM
Managed to crack the pressure regulator nut. The SP/CP did change as I loosened it, but nothing drastic, and the CP didn't drop independent of the SP. So all things point to the WUR.

The unit came out in two pieces. The sleeve design is correct for the model year. I've ordered an O ring kit to (hopefully) replace the existing ones. They look good, but it can't do any harm.

(https://i.postimg.cc/L4jZtTJ8/fpreg1.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/zXR2S4nR/fpred2.jpg)

I'm not sure yet whether to attempt rebuilding the WUR with a kit, or send it off for reconditioning.

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: raueda1 on 24 June 2023, 06:53 PM
That's the primary pressure regulator.  By all means, rebuild it, it's just replacing all the o-rings.  I posted a diasssembly process about it.  Read this. (https://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/primary-fuel-pressure-regulator-is-disassembly-possible/msg154947/#msg154947)  Your WUR may indeed be bad, but if this thing is bad you'll never know.  And it DOES go bad, the o-rings go flat or tear etc.  O-rings are cheap.  So don't send out the WUR quite yet.  Do this first and you may not have to.  Cheers,
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 26 June 2023, 07:31 AM
Quote from: raueda1 on 24 June 2023, 06:53 PMThat's the primary pressure regulator.  By all means, rebuild it, it's just replacing all the o-rings.  I posted a diasssembly process about it.  Read this. (https://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/primary-fuel-pressure-regulator-is-disassembly-possible/msg154947/#msg154947)  Your WUR may indeed be bad, but if this thing is bad you'll never know.  And it DOES go bad, the o-rings go flat or tear etc.  O-rings are cheap.  So don't send out the WUR quite yet.  Do this first and you may not have to.  Cheers,

Well I've managed to change the O rings but the slight issue of the world's tiniest c clip is causing an issue. How to heck do I pull the spring back with one hand, and pop that clip back on with the other?  :-\

Didn't start well. I almost destroyed the nut trying to get the torx bolt undone. Bit of penetrating fluid sorted that out.

(https://i.postimg.cc/DzQBgpDK/fpreg4.jpg)

Pulling back the silver cap on the spring reveals the tiny c clip. Remove it to dismantle the unit and reveal the 3rd hidden O ring.

(https://i.postimg.cc/mgfY5N7Z/FPreg5.jpg)

Here's the clip on my fat finger. Have lost it several times trying to pop it back on. Even needle nose pliers aren't helping.

(https://i.postimg.cc/yN6vLyzg/fpreg6.jpg)

Edit: Managed to get it on, let's see if it changes anything!
The big O ring was a tad too large, so I replaced it with the next smallest one available and it seems to work fine.

Edit: nope made no difference to control pressure. Another possibility crossed off though!
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 07 July 2023, 08:10 AM
Well I managed to split apart the WUR and fit all new gaskets, etc, with a rebuild kit.

Two blade method.  ;D

(https://i.postimg.cc/T27zY8yb/WURsplit.jpg)

A good few blasts of brake cleaner through the mesh filters this time around and they're looking a lot cleaner.

Fitted her back up this morning. Problem:
I didn't have the main WUR vacuum hose (the large one on the front/top) connected when I first started her over. This caused the starter to run on after turning off ignition.

Once reconnected and engine started: revs seem to be lower than normal and the gauge is holding only 3 bar system pressure. If you rev the engine, it dies, if you close the valve to check control pressure, the dial drops to zero and the engine dies.

I'm pretty sure everything is connected properly, and there are no fuel leaks, so either:


Thoughts?

Update:
 Subsequent attempts to get her running have resulted in maximum system pressure on the gauge: this can be controlled by slowly closing the pressure test kit valve, but if you totally close the valve it rockets to the bottom of the gauge and stalls the engine. So - SP over 6bar, CP zero!

I leaned out the mixture screw which seemed to raise the revs but had no effect on the SP. I noticed it was taking way too many turns to reach that point where the mixture is too lean, almost stalling, which indicates to me that maybe we were running a tad rich.

But none of this has sorted the problem. I don't think it's the pressure regulator because I tested it before refurbing the WUR and it was holding normal SP.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 08 July 2023, 10:54 AM
Update, if only to keep a record.

I removed the FPR and it looked fine to me.

Popped it back in and had the brainwave to jump the pump: SP back to normal but CP still a fat zero on the dial.

Turned the engine over and the high SP was back. A puff of smoke led me to noticing oil on the manifold. I guess super high system pressures can cause a gasket to blow!

(https://i.postimg.cc/Hs2xRDX8/manifold.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/283MRnBd/manifold2.jpg)



In a year of (expensive) ownership, I've driven maybe ten miles.  ;D
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 08 July 2023, 11:44 AM
Fluid at exhaust manifold joint could be valve stem seals and/or guides. Does it smell like gas? That could be from attempting to start a lot of times.

My MG looked like that and head rebuild fixed.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 09 July 2023, 10:10 AM
I'll have to worry about that later.

For now, system pressure is through the roof and I can only assume that's why the manifold is leaking.

System pressure normal if I only jump the pump. Baffled and can't find anything online.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: rumb on 09 July 2023, 01:46 PM
You might try reaching out to H.D. over at Benzworld.  He seem to be quite knowledgeable.

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/ke-jetronic-cis-e-info-advice.3065993/


Have you followed the diagnostic process completely?  Fortunately I have never had the need, but it appears quite logical and thorough.  step 9.3 caught my eye.  Have you checked for vacuum at the WUR?

https://cdn.w116.org/tech/K-Jet_Diagnosis_Adjustment.pdf
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: ramiro on 10 July 2023, 04:45 AM
If i understand it right you are affecting the system pressure by closing the valve to the wur?
That makes no sense whatsoever because the system is regulated internaly in the fuel distributor , i think you are just seeing 0 bar control pressure when the valve is open and 6 bar system pressure when it's closed.

If you really have 0 bar control pressure it's no wonder your exhaust is leaking because your engine
is running super rich and is pushing tons of unburned fuel into the exhaust.

For me it seems that the system pressure regulator is not working anymore and also the wur.
You cannot open the wur change the seals and put it back on the car without completly readjusting it , just opening it and closing it will change the adjustment.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: raueda1 on 10 July 2023, 06:24 AM
Yeah, something is very wrong here.  When rebuilding the And WUR did you polish the surface on the cylindrical valve body?  And doing the same on the housing certainly doesn't hurt.  At this point my bandwidth has kind of been consumed on this problem so I return to my K-Jet creed:  "Unless everything works, nothing works."  So, maybe time to take a step back, reboot and start over as Robert suggests.  The CIS manual (on this site someplace) is your best friend.  If I were you I'd go back to that, start at the beginning and proceed step-by-step without skipping anything or jumping around. Not skipping is a key point even if you think "I've already done that." Also, as ramiro says,  you'll absolutely be recalibrating the WUR at some point.  I'd therefore strictly avoid running the engine until you get it nailed down better (don't ask me how I know this). Keep at it, eventually you'll crack it.  Cheers,
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Feather535 on 18 July 2023, 10:30 AM
It has taken me a while to read through this thread, but having gotten to this point I agree that something has gone wrong in your process.  Control pressure should be about 1 bar cold and 3.8 warm, so a CP of 0 would make for a very rich mixture. 

Since you have disassembled the WUR and installed new parts, you also need to recalibrate it.  Guides are available in various places, for example:  https://k-jet.biz/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Basic-WUR-Set-Up.pdf (https://k-jet.biz/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Basic-WUR-Set-Up.pdf).  And did I understand correctly that you removed the fine mesh screens inside the WUR?  I've been told that those help to set the base pressure for the WUR, so their absence could explain your low CP. 

As others have said, it's important to go step by step, but until you fix the mixture problem, any further testing should be done with only the fuel pump running, and not the engine.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 11 September 2023, 06:39 AM
Well, I've finally found the time to start up my WUR odyssey again.
Reading through the guides, a proper adjustment procedure involves setting three different WUR components.
1) the bimetallic strip pin
2) the fuel cell
3) the stud on the rear of the WUR (bottom plug)

Every DIY effort I've researched seems to ignore the bottom plug.

First let's smack 1) until it is level with the casing. Stick the nut on so as not to damage the thread and whack it several times with some force. I rested the case on a big hammer.

(https://i.postimg.cc/vBt8hJ4K/IMG-3003.jpg)

This should leave the pin flush with the casing

(https://i.postimg.cc/44hTQK09/IMG-3004.jpg)

Next the fuel cell 2)

Remove the fuel inlet/return nuts and place a socket on the cell, smack it until it comes out the other side. Don't disturb the hole it rested in or you'll risk creating a vacuum leak!

(https://i.postimg.cc/hGJtQVX3/IMG-3005.jpg)

Finally we have the bottom plug. This is where it gets interesting...

(https://i.postimg.cc/Hk6HTzt7/IMG-3006.jpg)

This plug should be knocked out, then pushed back in gradually during the pressure set procedure. But in order to get to the plug you have to prise apart the lower diaphragm casing, which might require you having to replace the gasket/diaphragm thingy underneath - I just replaced mine so am reluctant to proceed.

However... some say that the plug is just there to stop you tampering with the Allen key bolt that lies beneath it! And that you can drill a hole through the plug to access the Allen key bolt... IF that's the case, and you can get the same results turning the bolt as gradually tapping the plug back in... then why not just drill?

Here's a fuzzy screenshot of the only source I could find for this info:


(https://i.postimg.cc/hvTqzCy4/IMG-0315.png)

If anybody has any info on this method, I'm all ears!
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: raueda1 on 11 September 2023, 07:49 AM
I don't recall ever seeing anything like that bottom pic.  In any case, there's a critical order to the setup. Have a look at THIS (https://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/k-jet-troubles-totally-stumped-k-jet-expert-needed!/) if you haven't already, page 2 in particular.  My problem turned out to be something else, but it's still good for WUR info.  In outline the process is:

 First is getting hot pressure right with the big cylindical valve body.  The thermoactivator needs to be removed.

 Second is setting cold pressure using the indented plug on the top of the WUR with thermoactivator reinstalled.

 Last, vac enrichment, the bottom one is vacuum enrichment and acts only on the diaphragm in the lower chamber.  I think there's a thread on that.  It's easy to overdo it.  S Class says that doing so will wreck to diaphragm. 

Good luck!  Cheers,
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 11 September 2023, 12:57 PM
Quote from: raueda1 on 11 September 2023, 07:49 AMI don't recall ever seeing anything like that bottom pic.  In any case, there's a critical order to the setup. Have a look at THIS (https://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/k-jet-troubles-totally-stumped-k-jet-expert-needed!/) if you haven't already, page 2 in particular.  My problem turned out to be something else, but it's still good for WUR info.  In outline the process is:

 First is getting hot pressure right with the big cylindical valve body.  The thermoactivator needs to be removed.

 Second is setting cold pressure using the indented plug on the top of the WUR with thermoactivator reinstalled.

 Last, vac enrichment, the bottom one is vacuum enrichment and acts only on the diaphragm in the lower chamber.  I think there's a thread on that.  It's easy to overdo it.  S Class says that doing so will wreck to diaphragm. 

Good luck!  Cheers,

Thanks!

I might email kjet.biz and see if I can pick their brains. They advise backing off the Allen key bolt a few turns during a refurb, then, after reassembly, tapping the bottom plug to adjust.

I wonder, though, if the tapping is just another way to achieve the same effect as manipulating the bolt...  Obviously they wouldn't want to be drilling into a customer's bottom plug just to do an adjustment when they can use a non invasive method.
We shall see.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: daantjie on 14 September 2023, 12:20 AM
Here is a video showing the bottom plug mod:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuELRd3gqgk

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: raueda1 on 14 September 2023, 08:48 AM
Careful here.  A couple things worth noting.  First, When rebuilding, did you polish the bottom of cylindircal WUR body?  proceed with progressively finer wet paper going from 1000 to 3000 grit.  You want a mirror finish.  This is a must do.  Second, the WUR shown above is a different, later version.  If you don't have that brass button then there's no hex screw inside, so that adjustment won't apply to your unit.  Cheers,
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Feather535 on 17 September 2023, 09:53 AM
If you're doing all this to fix the combination of high system pressure and zero control pressure, I think you're on the wrong track.  The vacuum diaphragm only comes into play at wide open throttle, so it shouldn't affect pressures at idle or with the pump running and the engine off...unless you've done something drastic by moving the bottom plug.

I would advise going back to the beginning.  System pressure is set by the primary pressure regulator in the FD?  Is it assembled correctly?  Are all the springs and o-rings in the right places?

Zero control pressure basically means fuel is flowing through the WUR as if it wasn't there.  Is the screen in the inlet in place and intact?  Are the metal diaphragm and the o-ring correctly installed?  There should still be measurable control pressure (maybe 0.5 bar) with only the those components installed, no springs or bimetal strip.

Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: Feather535 on 17 September 2023, 09:56 AM
Quote from: Feather535 on 17 September 2023, 09:53 AMI would advise going back to the beginning.  System pressure is set by the primary pressure regulator in the FD?  Is it assembled correctly?  Are all the springs and o-rings in the right places?

I should add, check the shims in the regulator, too, and make sure you put them all back where they belong. 
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 18 September 2023, 05:22 PM
Yes I'm also concerned that when I fiddled about with the primary fuel reg, something went wrong. I'm not sure exactly how though as all I did was renew a couple of O rings. Had it back out and everything looked fine.

I didn't end up drilling through the bottom plug to access the adjuster because my plug is indeed a different design to the one in the video, looks more solid. That being said, the allen key bolt that sits on the membrane is there. Either way, I shall be knocking it in the old fashioned way.

Going to be an absolute pain because of the m110 WUR location.  :-X

It's all been rebuilt again and the plugs have been knocked out, fuel cell polished etc. Let's see what tomorrow brings.
Title: Re: 280se - new to me, warm stalling!
Post by: SteveDuNord on 23 September 2023, 07:50 AM
Yet more frustration as I attempted to calibrate the WUR. Jumped the wrong pins on the fuel pump relay, smoke, crackles.

Corrected my mistake, pump running but zero system pressure or control pressure showing on the gauge. Figured it could be down to having removed/reconnected a fuel line, so gave it a minute for the fuel to work around the system. Nada.

After a good minute, I swear the relay started to smoke again. Abandoned experiment!

I couldn't be any more peed off with myself and the car at this juncture!