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280S Engine removal...easy task?

Started by chinny4290, 26 December 2009, 12:37 AM

chinny4290

Hey guys. I was wondering how hard of a task the removal of the M110 is from the 280S.

In the next year or so I plan on saving up so I can remove the engine, do some prep work and then send the body off to a shop to get fully repainted.

I know I need equipment like a hoist, etc.

And is this an easy task, albeit a tedious one? Or am I in for quite a challenge...

I've never personally removed an engine but I will have my uncle help me who has experience as well as another wrenchhead who swaps mustangs a lot.

1975 W116 280S - SOLD
1994 W124 E320 Coupe - Gone

CURRENT - 1974 450SEL

TJ 450

It's the same process for any of the engines, but the 280 will be easier. You just need an engine hoist, then disconnect the exhaust, tailshaft, electrics and all the rest.

It is easiest to remove both the engine and transmission as one unit and it will probably take a day or so if it is your first removal.

I wouldn't think twice about doing it, if necessary.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

nathan

Chinny,
this is not a difficult task - although does help to have someone who has done it at all. until about 1-2 years ago, the most i had done was minor mechanical work (ashamedly hadnt changed engine oil til that time). in the last year with the help of our local crew, ive now done 3 m110 280s (admittedly two from Gwagens w460s and one from a w114).  as TJ said, engine and trans is easier than removing the trans and then the engine.  when it gets time, more info will im sure be posted! save your self some dollars and do it yourself!
regards
nathan
1979 116 6.9 #6436
2018 213 e63
2011 212 e63
2011 463 g55
2007 211 e500 wagen
1995 124 e320 cabriolet
1983 460 300gd
1981 123 280te

Big_Richard

#3
thankfully the m110 is the lightest of all the engines in these old things.

removal is no more difficult than any other rear wheel/ front engine drive car on earth ;)

If it were me, and this is only a suggestion, while the engine and trans is out, i would reseal the transmission and replace parts as required, and freshen up the engine as required.

s class

You will need to remove the radiator to get more space - possibly the a/c condensor too. 

Here's a link to removal of a m103 straight six from a w124 - which is a lot more cramped than a w116.  At least you wont have all the wiring nightmares I had on this w124.

Link


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

koan

Not difficult to remove an engine, the job in the service manual tells what to do but really it's just a list of things to disconnect and things to remove that get in the way.

The engine has to go back in at some stage and to help that can I suggest

a) take pictures of the engine as parts are removed
b) bag and label nuts, bolts, etc. and small parts into zip-lock bags
c) bigger parts that might be confused left/right, front/back, etc. mark with a label which one it is, arrows up and forward help get things the right way..

We play with cars for enjoyment, no rush, take your time, no need to do the job in an afternoon.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

chinny4290

Quote from: Major Tom on 26 December 2009, 05:18 AM
thankfully the m110 is the lightest of all the engines in these old things.

removal is no more difficult than any other rear wheel/ front engine drive car on earth ;)

If it were me, and this is only a suggestion, while the engine and trans is out, i would reseal the transmission and replace parts as required, and freshen up the engine as required.

I also plan on doing that too.

I really plan on going all the way with this car...it only has 90k miles on it.
1975 W116 280S - SOLD
1994 W124 E320 Coupe - Gone

CURRENT - 1974 450SEL

Big_Richard

Quote from: chinny4290 on 27 December 2009, 01:37 AM
Quote from: Major Tom on 26 December 2009, 05:18 AM
thankfully the m110 is the lightest of all the engines in these old things.

removal is no more difficult than any other rear wheel/ front engine drive car on earth ;)

If it were me, and this is only a suggestion, while the engine and trans is out, i would reseal the transmission and replace parts as required, and freshen up the engine as required.

I also plan on doing that too.

I really plan on going all the way with this car...it only has 90k miles on it.

Excellent, thats how all w116's should be treated  8)

johnnyw116

M110 removal is a piece of cake , in the new year i am going to take out my M110 engine too so i can repair some light rust spots en respray the engine room last year i did it on my W107 also with the M110

greetings : johnny  .       
JohnnyW116

oscar

Respray/clean the engine bay....definitely.  I'm hopeless with cleaning my engine bay but would love to remove my 350 and respray it's bay.

Thing is chinnyman, I'm in the same boat too.  Timely thread this.  I too haven't removed an engine but today I just bought and put this piece of chinese manufacturing together 8) .  Got nothing against the Chinese and the quality has increased but farrrrk, does everything have to be made there??  I like to support the local guy or local manufacturing when I can but since I couldn't find any other equipment made in Aus or USA or elsewhere and the Aussie brand I had my eye on before Xmas has the same chinese manufacturer build theirs and paint them differently then put their stickers on then ups the price $95.  Pffft! I bought this one.  Cost of the no name red one was $395AUD and I'm sure there'll be more choice and comparatively cheaper ones in the US.  I've been all over the welds doing a visual and to be honest, whilst it may not be the quality I'd like I'd have to concede that I reckon it will do.

Anyway the red 280S will be the first to be gutted, sometime in the new year, can't promise when but I'll definitely be swapping notes  ;) 


What's a thread without a pic  ;D
1973 350SE, my first & fave

s class

Oscar, that looks just like the crane I have-  mine is painted blue and branded for a local supplier here though  ::)

The folding legs are a huge advantage when it comes to storage space. 


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

SELfor50

Not a hard task.. in fact, you could have a crack at the 3.75 day record. ;)

I'm with Nathan though.  Definitely nice to have someone who's done it all before.

Oscar, that's a farkn nice lifter.. Did you grab some chains too?  No stress if not..  ;)


oscar

Quote from: s class on 30 December 2009, 06:59 AM
The folding legs are a huge advantage when it comes to storage space. 

haha, (faceslap) they are too aren't they.   ::) Ah you learn something every day.  I have to put this in the 6x4 trailer tomorrow and was going to remove the legs.  Now I think I'll fold em. :D  Thanks sclass ;)

BTW, yeah Cam forgot to mention, got two old thick chains but they're naked, still need to get some shackle things on the way.  Shouldn't be a prob, or do they just use bolts thru the chains?
1973 350SE, my first & fave

TJ 450

Looks like you're set for pulling out engines now, Oscar.

Some reasonable shackles from the local hardware store should do the trick. The leveling bar would be beneficial, but not absolutely required.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

oscar

Hey, old thread I know but a year and a bit later I'm just about to pull an m110 out but I'm stuck on something.  

The manual says to "disconnect the prop shaft off the transmission and slide back".

Like most people I haven't got the big spanners, I've only got up to 32mm, but are you supposed have that small shaft attached to the tranny when you pull the engine out?  

It seems to me that undoing the flex coupling on the end of the tranny is the way to go but the tranny mount's in the way so what I've done is put a jack under the tranny pan and removed the mount so I can get to the flex coupling nuts and bolts.  I figure the complete prop shaft will be supported by the center bearing and diff and the only things holding the engine in place and next to remove are it's mounts and engine shock absorbers.  Is this the right way to go about it or is it going to end in tears?
1973 350SE, my first & fave