280 SE Big service..

[carl888]

I've put just on 700 kms on the 280 SE since the concour and my next task will be to sort out to the heater issue on the RHS face level vent, the brake judder and also the abrupt gear changes followed by some maintenance, hopefully easy to sort, that can be my Easter project.

I went through the service books and the maintenance manuals and made a list of all items that would be attended to from the 1st. inspection at 1,000 kms up to a "Major" at 15,000, 30,000 and 60,000 kms. Can anyone think of anything missed?


Engine oil and filter change
every 7,500 kms

re-torque head
adjust valve clearance
check cam timing
replace spark plugs
check timing/advance/dwell
check CO, idle speed
replace air filter
replace fuel filter
replace power steering filter
replace auto transmission filter and fluid, including torque converter
replace brake fluid
replace differential oil
lube door hinges/locks/mirrors
change coolant
lubricate throttle linkages
adjust/change fan belts
adjust handbrake
check wheel bearings
check tailshaft rubber coupling
check hoses, water, oil and fuel
re-torque exhaust manifold
exhaust juntions, tighten
re-torque steering box mounting
adjust steering play
check and tighten hose clamps
compression test
check clean/replace pads/discs
inspect brake lines
clean flame guard filament in crankcase ventilation system
re-tighten compressor bolts

Other jobs as required:
rotate and balance tyres
check wheel alignment
check air conditioiing functionality.
inspect and replace plug leads as necessary
inspect and replace distributor cap as necessary
replace and replace rotor as necessary
inspect and replace points as necessary (Ignition)
adjust handbrake

One thing I do not see mentioned is the trigger points for the fuel injection, does anyone know if there is a service interval for these?

Golly, it's quite a bit isn't it!

Regards,

Carl.

[carl888]

Well, Easter 2008 came and went which was when I proposed to hoe into the 280 SE service and only now have I had a chance to begin.  Sadly, I've done only 2,600 kms in 18 months in the old girl.  My plan this year is to drive it much more often.

I've begun the "Big Service" as of last week, and its been not without problems.  The first issue wa changing the brake fluid.  The car had it's 90,000 kms service at the MB dealer in December 2006 when the fluid was changed so it was 12 months overdue.  (Naughty me).

Anyway, the process went without drame until the last caliper on the rear.....the bleed nipple sheared in half.  Unfortunately the caliper ended up unserviceable after I tried to drill out the remnants...  A quick call to RobertD and he has kindly offered another from his myriad of parts, thanks Robert!

Here is the caliper and bleed nipple in question.







After this little episode I needed to find a really easy job, so I changed the oil in the diff!

The car has always consumed a little water, say 100 ml. per few hundred kms.  Further investigation revealed some pretty sad old coolant hoses.  Water never leaked on the ground, but it just weeped from a few small holes as we can see below.

Top hose removed:




Having a further poke around I discovered this, some leaky hoses...

The annoying little hose behind the thermostat housing:




And a cracked hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/carl308888/Mercedes-Benz%20280%20SE%20W116/280SEW116bigbirthday2009e.jpg


Here is a cheeky little one, it's right under the top hose, and it carries water to the throttle body for heating, it was leaking too:





Not shown is the return from the throttle body to the block.


May as well do the heater hoses whilst I'm in there, this looks like fun trying to remove this:




It appears I have to get in from the ventilation grille, does anyone know how to remove the black rivet's shown?




Some more of the bits coming off:




Does anyone know if the original style hose clamps are still available?




Oh, and another issue, the idler puller for the air conditioning had a shagged inner bearing, I pressed it out, and look what happened!  I don't think the bearing is supposed to be pressed out!!  Anyone else had this issue?






Finally, a pics of some of the new bits ready for action...




That's all for now, more later this week no doubt.

Happy New Year everyone.

Regards,

Carl.

[koan]

does anyone know how to remove the black rivet's shown?

They are two parts, an outside piece with the head, four tangs and an hole through the middle. The second part is a small rod inserted into the hole, when pushed in it expands the tangs.

Push the rod right through and out with a pointy tool and they will pull out.

Available from MB, also Bursons have them in Bubble packs. They can be reused if the rods can be rescued..

I don't think the bearing is supposed to be pressed out!!

Probably not... I'd guess at that being a replacement bearing and pulley from a later model, it's not the 116 vintage way of doing things. A wrecker might have something suitable.

koan

[s class]

I've had plenty experience with these A/C pulleys - its the same item on the M110, M117 and M100.  The genuine MB ones are like you picture - the bearing cannot be replaced.  If you buy a Meyle one from a place such as Autohaus, the sheetmetal design is subtly different, and it allows you to replace the bearing. 

Autohaus is something like US$27 for Meyle, whilst the dealer here in South Africa wants something like US$80 for a genuine one. 

[carl888]

Thanks Koan and S-Class,

Looks like I won't be able to get near the car till this coming weekend so I'll let you know how it goes.

Are there any special tips one needs to know with regards to the heater hoses....looks pretty straightforward once you are in there...

Regards,

Carl.

[s class]

I'm just busy replacing them at the moment on the one car.  You need to carefully remove the windscreen wipers, then the decorative grille as koan describes.  The left hand side heater hose (from the firewall mounted valve to the heater core) is the most difficult, purely because of inaccesibility.  You will find that the thin metal piping for the windcreen washer jets wraps around the heater hose - you'll see what I mean once you get in there.  I found I had to remove this washer jet tubing (easy to do) to facilitate the replacement of the hose. 

[koan]

Can you still get the OEM hose clamps?

As an alternative I use a good quality "solid band" clamp. Solid band meaning there are no holes in the band, the worm engages raised teeth on the band.

A couple of bits of paper tape on the windscreen marked where the wipers sit or the limits of the slack allow the wipers to go back on in the original position and remember left and right wipers are different lengths

koan

[Big_Richard]

I've had plenty experience with these A/C pulleys - its the same item on the M110, M117 and M100.  The genuine MB ones are like you picture - the bearing cannot be replaced.  If you buy a Meyle one from a place such as Autohaus, the sheetmetal design is subtly different, and it allows you to replace the bearing. 

Autohaus is something like US$27 for Meyle, whilst the dealer here in South Africa wants something like US$80 for a genuine one. 

no way is that pulley the same on the m100, the A6 uses a cast iron pulley and the bearing most certainly can be replaced. Its a very common failure item on those compressors. A press wasnt even required to replaced it.

[carl888]

Thanks for all the replies, this seems to be the pulley I need:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-A-C-Idler-Pulley-fits-most_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a1Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem360116138927QQitemZ360116138927QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Koan..I use the Zebra stainless clamps from Wuerth, they are nice with the solid band, but not original, just debating how anal I want to be about this engine bay...  From what I can tell, the original zinc plated ones are NLA.  Might be a trip to the wreckers one day, but I can't imagine there are too many cars around now with their original clamps!

s-class, thanks for the tip about the firewall hoses.

Regards,

Carl.

[carl888]

I've scanned the WSM to show the coolant hoses, the heater hoses and the throttle body water supply.

Note, in the first diagram, everything suffixed with an "a" is unique to the W116.

Regards,

Carl.

[s class]

no way is that pulley the same on the m100, the A6 uses a cast iron pulley and the bearing most certainly can be replaced. Its a very common failure item on those compressors. A press wasnt even required to replaced it.

I am referring to the idler, or tensioner, pulley, not the compressor pulley.  And I stand by my comment that its the same idler pulley in all 116's. 

[koan]

no way is that pulley the same on the m100, the A6 uses a cast iron pulley and the bearing most certainly can be replaced. Its a very common failure item on those compressors. A press wasnt even required to replaced it.

PB does your engine have the Aux transmission pump, some do some don't ?

The pump pulley is the idler on mine.

Carl's  pulley looks pretty much like the A/C idler seen on many makes of vehicle, pretty certain something better would be available.

koan 

[s class]

woops, koan you are right.  the idler pulley is found on the euro spec 6.9's.  The Aus and US ones have a pump in its place. 

[carl888]

Well.........thanks VERY much to Robertd I was able to sort out the brake caliper issue.  A trip to Roberts yesterday (Damn you Robert for allowing me to drive the 6.9...now I need one LOL)  allowed me to peruse a selection of W116 bits.

We ended up raiding the back end of Roberts 1980 280 SEL.  Only the rear calipers for the cars without starting torque compensation will fit a 280 BTW.  Initially we checked a 450 SE and the caliper whilst is the same, the location of the brake line inlet precludes its use. 

Now this is where the problem starts.  My car, being a 1974 model has the first series caliper, here is a pic:







If you have a look at the above caliper, you'll notice the bolts that hold the halves together have a nut on the end and the bolt has a 12 point INHEX head.

Now from January 1975, the calipers have the bolt with a conventional hex, 13mm I think but there is no nut..the opposing caliper half is internally threaded.  There is also a detail difference to the bridge construction, it's more rounded on the later caliper.  See below for pics.

According to the WSM, there is no problem mixing the two calipers, but for some odd reason, I just couldn't do it, so I walked away with two calipers, now I can sleep at night!  Today I disassembled the two later calipers ready for cleaning and the new seal kits.  There is no way one of them would have worked on the 280 they came off, the piston on one side was seized solid.  The rust and crud inside was foul!  I soaked both calipers in penetrant which freed things up.  I'll give the bores a light hone before cleaning them VERY carefully before the new seal kits are fitted.

Here are the later calipers from Robert:







Just in case anyone requires caliper piston orientation, here is the guide from the WSM.



Thanks again Robert for saving the day.  Next time I visit, I promise I'll be in the W116

Regards,

Carl.

[carl888]

Managed to re-build the two rear calipers from the robertd donor 280 SEL today.  Cleaning them took 10 times as long as installing the seals and orientating the pistons!  The bores carried some light surface corrosion which was removed with some 1200 wet and dry.  The pistons cleaned up nicely thanks to the wire brush.  Then a blast with brake cleaner and compressed air and together they went.

The usual snowball, may as well throw a set of new brakes lines at it whilst I'm in there.  Not much progress over the next week, going to be close to 40 degrees for the next 6 days here, I think I'll stay inside lol!

I didn't paint the calipers although they are not quite as nice as the ones that came off the car, I wanted to maintain the original yellow and blue paint swipes applied dusring assembly.

Regards,

Carl.



ATE part number for the caliper seal kit





4 new hoses!





Cleaning the pistons, right two done, left two as extracted, yuk!





Completed job ready to be installed.  Painted retaining pins and clamps.





Close up of the new dust seal.