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zebrano veneer production question

Started by floyd111, 18 July 2016, 06:52 AM

floyd111

I know there's a few guys here that know a lot about the wood in the W116.
I finally started the restoration process of the mountain of wooden panels I been buying over the years.
Well, not I, but a befriended carpenter..
Question is about the thinner used with the sanding sealer.
My friend tells me about 3 types, but since it is in Chinese, the translation will probably make no sense:
Banana water
Pine relax water
the third one does not even allow for a translation.

Could anyone direct me in the right direction here?

UTn_boy

Sanding sealer wasn't used when the factory finished the pieces.  After 1973 the factory went from nitrocellulose lacquer to a polyester resin.  The poly ester resin allowed them to not to have to use any kind of grain filler.  However, if you insist on making work, then the grain filler will have on the container what to thin it with.  If it doesn't say, then you'll want to use something like Xylol or Acetone.  Don't use anything like gum spirits or mineral spirits.  They're oil based and will not allow the polyester resin to stick to the wood.  In addition, the oil will penetrate the wood and pretty much ruin it.  And remember, don't stain the wood.  Always tint the clear coat. 
1966 250se coupe`,black/dark green leather
1970 600 midnight blue/parchment leather
1971 300sel 6.3,papyrus white/dark red leather
1975 450se, pine green metallic/green leather
1973 300sel 4.5,silver blue metallic/blue leather
1979 450sel 516 red/bamboo

dima

Сперва наносится морилка,потом прозрачный барьерный полиуретановый грунт(чтобы в дальнейшем полиэфирные материалы не окислили морилку),затем наносим прозрачный полиэфирный грунт что бы выровнять поверхность,после поверхность покрывается прозрачным полиэфирным лаком Посмотреть можно тут: https://www.drive2.ru/b/2055847/

floyd111

Quote from: dima on 30 July 2016, 11:58 AM
Сперва наносится морилка,потом прозрачный барьерный полиуретановый грунт(чтобы в дальнейшем полиэфирные материалы не окислили морилку),затем наносим прозрачный полиэфирный грунт что бы выровнять поверхность,после поверхность покрывается прозрачным полиэфирным лаком Посмотреть можно тут: https://www.drive2.ru/b/2055847/

First, apply stain, then a transparent barrier polyurethane primer (hereinafter to polyester materials are not oxidized stain), then apply a transparent polyester primer that would level the surface after the surface is covered with a transparent polyester varnish

UTn_boy

The cardinal rule has been broken, Stan.  The wood is NOT, under no circumstances, to be stained.  Only the clear top coat is tinted a brown color. 
1966 250se coupe`,black/dark green leather
1970 600 midnight blue/parchment leather
1971 300sel 6.3,papyrus white/dark red leather
1975 450se, pine green metallic/green leather
1973 300sel 4.5,silver blue metallic/blue leather
1979 450sel 516 red/bamboo

floyd111

I heard that.
I was simply translating the Russian writing above..

markb

I can't find any information on "polyester varnish".. is that just a reference to the polyester top coat? Also, does anybody know of the tint color and/or mix ratio (Zebrano)? I've started a refinish of the shifter section and was hoping to match the other pieces, which are in good shape.

For that matter, would multiple coats of polyurethane work, with sanding between coats? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Mark
1979 450SEL. 209k, 20+ year daily driver.
1969 Citroen DS21 Wagon. Long ago and far away, but still amazed.
1956 MGA. Dismantled 1984. Saving for my first born son (nyd!).

floyd111

Sorry, I can't answer that. Still very much scratching the surface myself.

Peter

I remember doing my 108 many many years ago and used polyurethane and applied about 8 very light coats with sanding between each coat. I did all the timber work at the same time so colour matching wasn't an issue. I would suggest taking a piece of your finished timber to the paint/stain specialist supplier and have them recommend if no one here on the forum can advise the correct stain colour. You need to leave plenty of drying time between coats so expect that this job will take a week or more. Good luck  :)

floyd111

Madeira and Eris leave 3 weeks between the coats for drying. They do 7 coats. That's 21 weeks.

markb

Wow. And thanks. And wow. I guess I'll keep coating and tinting until it's dark enough. Or I pass away.  :'(
Mark
1979 450SEL. 209k, 20+ year daily driver.
1969 Citroen DS21 Wagon. Long ago and far away, but still amazed.
1956 MGA. Dismantled 1984. Saving for my first born son (nyd!).