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Windshield and Rear Window removal

Started by ulysees, 24 November 2010, 02:29 PM

ulysees

And their reinstallation after changing the seals.
Where do i begin and are any special tools required??

koan

Quote from: ulysees on 24 November 2010, 02:29 PM
And their reinstallation after changing the seals.
Where do i begin and are any special tools required??

No special tools, a knife to cut the seals out, and a lot skill to get the windows back in.

Good luck.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

ulysees

hey koan!!  (-:    is it necessary to remove the plastic interior bits adjoining the headliner etc.??

TJ 450

I would remove the trim... it makes it a lot easier. The more access you have the better, as you work that seal in place. 8)

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Squiggle Dog

Just don't take out the dashboard or you'll find it won't go back in since the windshield seal is in the way!
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

koan

Quote from: ulysees on 25 November 2010, 03:14 AM
is it necessary to remove the plastic interior bits adjoining the headliner etc.??

No.

I didn't do the job and when I saw the trouble getting the chrome trims to stay in place while he fitted the screen I'm glad I didn't, And that was with a MB OEM seal.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

crs79

Does anyone know of a Wiki ,with pictures, of this process.  Front or back window.

crs79

Also, has anyone utilized a "used" windshield or back window to affect a repair?

craigb

Yep, I had a nonheated rear screen so swapped it for one out of a wreck. Those rear trims come off my sliding them forward and the side ones have a screw or two that you will see when remove seat back. While out I would strongly recommend using the opportunity to clean up any rust and i use POR 15 or a good rust paint. I use a string/thin rope in the 'groove' of the rubber, sit it in on the bottom and then preferably with a mate using a bit of pressure to push it into place, just gently pull on the string that will pull that lip of rubber up over the steel bit. Rear chrome just slides our, pushes in on clips.

Havent done a 116 front, but same as 108 in that the front trim must go in to the rubber before the screen goes in and it will go in, just take it easy and dont do what windscreens obrien did when i got them to put a screen in my W113, went outside to see the fitter trying to lever the anodised aluminium trim in after with a screwdriver and when i raised the issue he told me "that will sand off with a bit of sandpaper"!! Started about a year saga where they finally agreed to pay half of a new set..... which i pulled the whole screen back out myself and refitted without a problem! You need to know who the fitter is, dont use a big company where you take pot luck if it is the dopey apprentice doing the work.

Front side trims i forget now, screw or two and then slide up is it? In general a 108 and before has clips that pull off and then 116 and later things slide off.

Agree with everything else like cutting old seals. I mean if you make a mistake like obrien you can get it back out but need to take car putting gentle pressure to push it out from a mate and then work around the edges with a tool to help pull that rubber over - but if you are replacing them anyway just no point in taking the risk on cracking the screen, not that hard to do.
1980 280s

WGB

The processes for screen removal as well as trim removal are documented in the Workshop manual available at this site.

You will also have to remove the trim piece at the base of the rear screen (as well as the side and top panels) and this is held in place by nylon nuts found above the fuel tank location

There may be an advantage removing the rain delectors off the A-pillars as well as they can be damaged when the screen is re-fitted (I purchased a new pair US$150 each 2 years ago - damaged after a windscreen replacement).

All can be removed with a little reading, care and patience but the front screen is notoriously difficult to replace and most leave this to an expert.

Bill.

s class

I refitted my original rear glass to my 280SE this past weekend using a new Uro Parts seal.  It went about as well and painless as could be hoped.  I used the cord trick, and a non-drying mastic sealant. 


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

TJ 450

I'm about to do this too. I'm glad the Uro Parts seal went on OK, as that's what I purchased.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

s class

I got my uro parts seal from AutohausAZ.  Actually, to be honest I am very impressed with it.  I would describe it as a perfect fit. 


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

TJ 450

Excellent, I'm pleased to hear that S Class.

The best thing about the rear seal is that it doesn't have a chrome moulding piece fitted into it like the front.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500