I am currently in the process of stripping back the underside of my 6.9 to bare metal.
I was considering using POR15 on it.
Has anyone used this product? Is it any good?
Or should I just use a good etch prime and topcoat?
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/21096-1/DSC01069.jpg)
This is a pic of the old girl on the rotisserie before I started cleaning the 10mm of rubbery s#it off the underside.
Darren
respect dude - your taking 116 restoration to a whole new level 8)
I have used POR-15 on the inside floor. It's a good product. It seals well and when it hardens, it adds strength to the floor. There must be some sort of resin in the paint because it does make the floor stronger.
While it is a strong paint, unless you plan to have a show car, I would suggest putting a very thick coat of rubberized under seal on the under side of the car because stones will eventually chip away at the paint. I'm quite sure that you can paint over POR-15 with undercoat. But I don't think you paint over it with paint. There is a paint-able version.
Once dry, POR-15 looks more like powder coat then it does paint.
I'm very impressed with the extent of your restoration project Mr. 69ltr. You clearly know how to do things properly! ;)
This is W116 restoration, how it was meant to be done.
Tim
Impressive. Please keep the pictures coming.
Thanks for that in info alabbasi.The 6.9 will probably only do around 3000km a year on good sealed roads so I will use POR 15.
below is a pic of my finnie that I restored back in 1995-96.It has been painted now for 13 years,and has done 28000km since resto.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/21208-1/Finnie.jpg)
As requested ,some pics of ongoing work.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/21211-1/front+rigt+sill.jpg)
Front Right Sill
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/21214-1/Left+floor+near+trans+tunnel.jpg)
Left Floor Near Trans Tunnel.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/21205-1/boot+seal+rust.jpg)
Boot Seal Rust
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/21217-1/more+holes.jpg)
More Holes
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/21199-1/6_9+storage.jpg)
6.9 Storage
Darren
one more thing, POR-15 doesn't like UV and will bubble up if placed in direct sunlight. It's not so important for the underside of the car but certainly worth a mention.
Very impressive. HOw are you stripping back the underside - wire wheels?
POR 15 can be topcoated. I can't recall the exact timing, but you have to do it within a specific period, otherwise you need to use a tie-coat between coatings.
Quote from: s class on 01 February 2009, 02:06 PM
Very impressive. HOw are you stripping back the underside - wire wheels?
My wife is using a heat gun & scraper and I am using a wire wheel.
We will not be able to get to ALL of it so will have it sandblasted ,aswell as engine bay,door jams,sills & inside boot.
The exterior paint will be removed with paint stripper.
Quote from: 69ltr on 01 February 2009, 04:29 PM
Quote from: s class on 01 February 2009, 02:06 PM
Very impressive. HOw are you stripping back the underside - wire wheels?
My wife is using a heat gun & scraper and I am using a wire wheel.
We will not be able to get to ALL of it so will have it sandblasted ,aswell as engine bay,door jams,sills & inside boot.
The exterior paint will be removed with paint stripper.
There is the other option of acid bathing the entire shell, then you dont have to worry about stripping anything ;)
Quote from: 69ltr on 01 February 2009, 04:29 PM
My wife is using a heat gun & scraper and I am using a wire wheel.
Wow, what a woman! Does she have a sister who's single?
I just completed a resto on my '76 450se this past summer, and used POR-15 in a few places....it is a very good product. However, since you have your car on a rotisserie, I would suggest POR-15 only where necessary to seal and control surface rust.
I would choose to have the lower half of the car sprayed in heavy duty pickup truck bedliner material http://www.rhinolinings.com/ . This stuff is indestructible, wears, takes abuse, and won't chip off. You can do it yourself or you can have someone come to your location and do it.
Its been a while since I have had the time to do any more on the 6.9.
Over the past weekend Igot rid of some more rubber from underneath.
It is now ready to go to the restoration company to be sandblasted and primed.
Some more pics will come at different stages of the resto.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22007-2/Rubber+now+gone.JPG)
All rubber gone & ready for Sandblasting
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22013-2/Under+left+rear+guard.JPG)
Left Rear whell arch.
Thanks for the update. I am very interested in this project. Exciting stuff.
Wonderful to watch - thanks for going to the trouble to show us.
If the 6.9 ever gets to be a valued antique there will be more of this going on.
Bill
Some Updated Pics
Slowly but Surely
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22615-1/IMGP1682.jpg)
Someone has been here before
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22617-1/IMGP1683.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22637-1/IMGP1755.jpg)
Thats looking better
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22625-1/IMGP1749.jpg)
More Pics to come as the work is done.
Have just finished getting all of the rubber shit off from under the guards.
I haven't seen this thread before. Awsome stuff! 8)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22729-1/DSC01221.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22731-1/DSC01218.JPG)
Quote from: 69ltr on 19 May 2009, 05:00 PM
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22729-1/DSC01221.JPG)
Very impressive. Was this a new piece you grafted in, or from a donor car? I need the same job done on the LHS of my blue 6.9.
Hi s class,
The Rail is the original that has been cut off to be straightened and so the floor pan could be replaced with a fabricated one.
Once the floorpan was replaced the original rail was rejoined and welded back into place.
The majority of the rust in this car is in the left hand side caused by the aircon. drains being blocked and the water sitting
on the inside of the floor then being trapped by the rubber sound deadener under.
I have 3 other 116''s and this one has had the most sound deadener under it.
It was 40mm thick in places.When it goes back together it will be a little louder inside but lots lighter.
Darren
Please can you provide some photos of how and where you attached the rotisserie to your car - and if you had to build the rotisserie again, would you do anything differently?
Thanks, Ryan
The rotisserie that I built worked ok but I got the centre of gravity wrong so it was very hard to roll over.
I cracked the poops with it and ended up buying one of these.
http://www.superhoistplus.com/Products/SuperHoistsPlus/RRSTD/RestoRollerStandard.aspx
for $1200.00 Plus freight.It is magic.
I mounted the rotisserie to the front & rear bumper mounts.
I have not got any pics of this at the moment.
Darren
Some More Pics to show you all.
The Underside is nearly all done.
Next week it will be turned right side up to have all the panel fitted and aligned.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22941-1/IMGP1843.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22943-1/IMGP1872.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22939-1/IMGP1887.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22945-1/IMGP1936.jpg)
This sort of restoration really is the ultimate benchmark. I bet it will look better than when it first rolled out of Sindelfingen. Brilliant work!
Tim
Here is the colour that we have chosen.
What do you think?
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22951-2/DSC01231.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/22956-2/DSC01232.JPG)
Very impressive. This is an awesome project.
I do like the colour, but I'm fond of dark green metallics.
More Pics
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23003-1/IMGP1994.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23005-1/IMGP2003.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23007-1/IMGP2004.jpg)
dear god that is a beautiful sight......
Excellent. What is that black underbody sealant you are using?
Quote from: vlv8vic on 17 June 2009, 05:23 AM
dear god that is a beautiful sight......
It is, indeed. 8)
Tim
Hi s class,
After all of the questions that I was asking at the start of this thread we have ,in the end,
had underneath sandblasted then epoxy pimer , then stone guard, then Delfleet satin black from PPG.
Under the guards is epoxy primer,stoneguard,then the body colour from PPG.
The body colour is a special mix that my wife and I both chose.
No arguement now if she doesnt like it.
I LOVE IT.
The engine bay was painted today.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23024-1/IMGP2012.jpg)
I have put a few other pics from the start till now in the gallery/garage/rotisserie
Hi 69ltr. Thanks for your answer. I guess then my question is, which brand/product is the stoneguard you've used. I like the appearance of it.
Thanks, Ryan
wow way to go!
My deepest apologies to s class for not getting back with an answer.
Bloody work.
Here it is.
It is a 3M product called Body Schultz Black Textured .The number on the can is 08861.
Once this was applied it then had Delfleet Satin Black over the top of the 3M stuff.
Some more progress has been made on the top side of the car.
I guess it isnt Underbody Restoration any more.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23438-1/IMGP2335.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23440-1/IMGP2336.jpg)
Just got all the bolts,nuts,powersteering pipes ,etc back from the zinc platers.
They look great.
All front suspension components satin black powder coated.
Darren
This is the first time I have come across this thread and all I can say is wow, just wow! The pinnacle of restoration work!
Thanks 69ltr.
I have been wrestling with the epoxy vs etch primer debate. the pros on the spraypainting forums seem to favour epoxy over bare metal, especially for restoration of older cars. Standox (my preferred paint) seem to recommend one of their excellent etch primers. Hmmm.
I have some personal experience with both....and I would recommend the epoxy based primer, as long as it compatible with the paint system you are using.
The epoxy based primer sticks better, flexes more, and generally keeps rust out better. However, my experience is also that you really need to lay it on smoothly, because it's not going to sand up super smooth like a regular self etching primer does. Not a big deal, because you will put a high build sealer over it anyway, which will sand as smooth as a babies bottom.
Thanks pez, your comments fairly summarise the feelings of the US based forums I consult. they generally use du Pont, PPG etc. The standox system I use differs a bit from these in its makeup. Standox have only one epoxy primer, and they don't push its use. They tend to rather push their several etch primers.
The self etch property has always appealed to me. What would I be loosing out by starting with an epoxy over the bare metal?
Hi everyone
It is nearly ready to come home and start the reassembly .
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23798-1/IMG_2022.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23801-1/IMG_2029+_2_.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23804-1/IMG_2030+_2_.jpg)
Darren
awesome work ;)
I hope you remember how to put it all back together!
I am keeping the parts car as intact as I can to copy everything, including what size,type of bolt or screw to replace with as all
of my bolts and screws were all put together to be zinc plated.
The kids had fun sorting out the same size bolts and bagging them.
Got the body back yesterday and have started to put some bits back on.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23836-1/DSC01511.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23838-1/DSC01512.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23840-1/DSC01513.jpg)
We will have the majority of the front end components back next week
and should be able to put some front wheels on it soon.
It looks like it's all going back together nicely. I can't wait to see the final result... it will be a work of art.
Tim
Thanks for those pics. Keep them coming.
Luxury Finishes have put some more pics of the big pig on thier web site.
http://www.luxuryfinishes.com.au/restorations.html
Joe and his team at Luxury Finishes would be only to happy to assist in
any other restoration work that you may have.
Some updated pics.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23974-1/DSC01544.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/23976-1/DSC01546.jpg)
Have got the rear door window glass in and working via a battery jump pack.
They work very smoothly.
All of the vacuum locking now works very well.To get vacuum to it I have used a hand held vac. pump.
It holds vac. for 2 days so far.I cant leave it alone to see if it will hold longer.
Front control arms , streering box ,drag link and tie rods are all in.
Darren
Some more pics .
Its a bit slow now. The coin has run out for the moment.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24546-1/IMG_2728.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24548-1/IMG_2729.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24550-1/IMG_2730.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24552-1/IMG_2731.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24554-1/IMG_2732.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24556-1/IMG_2733.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24558-1/IMG_2734.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24560-1/IMG_2735.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24562-1/IMG_2736.JPG)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24564-1/IMG_2739.JPG)
:o WOW! God that looks so good.
What have you got planned for firewall insulation in the engine bay? Can you get a new OEM one still, reusing the old one, something custom cut perhaps?
When it's complete, it looks like it might be ready for entry into the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance. ;)
Tim
Now that's a real gleaming beauty.
What a stunner.
i am not surprised you have run out of coin, that is the shizzle!
You have inspired me to go all the way 6.9ltr. Not sure I want to thank or curse you (and Nathan). Going down a similar path and also am feeling the recession. Well, Rome wasn't built in a day, right?
http://forum.w116.org/interiors-and-exteriors/detroit-diesel-reboot
Daaaamn.... The best thing I can say is, i'm honoured that this is an Australian 6.9!
Much props.
It is extremely farkn nice dude. Very very very nice.
A few questions:
Are all the lines brand new? If so, were they custom made or off the shelf from MB as new lines?
Is the restoration shop doing mostof the work, and are they sourcing new/replacement parts or are you getting parts reconditioned by them and doing some yourself as well?
It's a very very very tasty 6.9 dude. 8)
Cam.
oscar,
The firewall is going naked.The old insulation collects crap behind it and creates rust.
The paintwork in the engine bay is too good to cover up.
Cam,
The lines are all original.They were stripper back to bare metal by my wife.
They were then zinc plated.The Brakes lines are silver.The Hydo lines are SA5 which in different light is green,purple.
And the Fuel & Power steering lines are gold.
The resto shop is finished with it. They did the body & paintwork only.Assembly is up to me and my wife.
The parts are being sourced in order of priority.
Chrome wheel arch trims were rechromed.
currently working on having the brightwork chromed.have had a sample done and it looks great.
Powdercoating anything that can be .If not zinc plated.
When I pulled the rear wheel bearing out there were some cruddy looking circlips and dust covers in there
so they are now zinc plated with all of the brake backing plates powdercoated.
New window regs in the rear doors only at this stage.all new clips for brightwork.(cheap)
By the time this thing goes back on the road it will be a NEW car .BUT BETTER BECAUSE IT HAS STEEL BUMPERS.
Darren
Looks absolutely beautiful.
If you are going for concourse the central steering link and right hand tie rod should be painted in light green.
Bill
I know about the light green colour, but I would have thought both tie rods would be the same colour?
Quote from: 69ltr on 10 December 2009, 01:38 AM
oscar,
The firewall is going naked.The old insulation collects crap behind it and creates rust.
The paintwork in the engine bay is too good to cover up.
Cam,
The lines are all original.They were stripper back to bare metal by my wife.
They were then zinc plated.The Brakes lines are silver.The Hydo lines are SA5 which in different light is green,purple.
And the Fuel & Power steering lines are gold.
The resto shop is finished with it. They did the body & paintwork only.Assembly is up to me and my wife.
The parts are being sourced in order of priority.
Chrome wheel arch trims were rechromed.
currently working on having the brightwork chromed.have had a sample done and it looks great.
Powdercoating anything that can be .If not zinc plated.
When I pulled the rear wheel bearing out there were some cruddy looking circlips and dust covers in there
so they are now zinc plated with all of the brake backing plates powdercoated.
New window regs in the rear doors only at this stage.all new clips for brightwork.(cheap)
By the time this thing goes back on the road it will be a NEW car .BUT BETTER BECAUSE IT HAS STEEL BUMPERS.
Darren
That's great stuff Darren!! I need to get my mrs involved in stripping back lines to metal.. 8) 8)
I gotta get into this powdercoating stuff... it brings things up beautifully. I reckon you're on the money for it being a "new car".
And yep, it'll be heaps better cause it's Klassiker, nichts plastik ;)
Cam.
My wife and I had the discussion about concourse (The way that somebody else wanted it) or
bulid it how we want it.
This is a project for the satisfaction of my wife,myself and kids.
I have been through the whole concourse thing when I was judging Mustang concourse.
I had to deduct point on a Shelby as it had Carrol Shelby's signature on the the glove box lid that was done at a car show somewhere
Not at the factory.Factory built cars are assembled by people who will never drive them.Ours will be hand built by people who really have a passion for it.
Attention to detail is everything.
Darren
Quote from: 69ltr on 10 December 2009, 03:06 PM
My wife and I had the discussion about concourse (The way that somebody else wanted it) or
bulid it how we want it.
This is a project for the satisfaction of my wife,myself and kids.
I have been through the whole concourse thing when I was judging Mustang concourse.
I had to deduct point on a Shelby as it had Carrol Shelby's signature on the the glove box lid that was done at a car show somewhere
Not at the factory.Factory built cars are assembled by people who will never drive them.Ours will be hand built by people who really have a passion for it.
Attention to detail is everything.
Darren
Well put. I love seeing a car brought back to ex factory condition but I'm equally impressed, if not more, when a thorough resto involves individual well executed changes. I love seeing the variations, though I'm glad you didn't try to gullwing the doors. Whether the result is to everyone's taste doesn't matter so long as the constructor is wearing a smile from ear to ear.
Good luck on getting the Mrs involved Cam. I've been trying for years (my Mrs, not yours :D ) but the passion just aint there.
Hey all .
No I'm not dead. :)
Had a little issue with the paint on my 6.9 and cracked the shits with it for a little while .
I am just about to get it back after another 7 months at the paint shop. >:(
Joe at Luxury finishes has had to strip it back to bare metal again as the
PPG Urathane had a failure, not that PPG will admit it.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/26520-1/Pimples+26+Dec+2009.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/26522-1/left+rear+door+26+dec+2009.jpg)
So all of the work that went into putting it back together had to be undone.
Anyway, have been buying a few bits while the Aussie dollar is strong.
We are going to be back into it again very soon.
Had to buy more toys while the 6.9 was back in the paint shop.
1 x 420SEL(Wifey Drive Car), 1 x 560SEL(Darren Skid Car) :) and a 380SEL(Parts Shitter).
Darren
PS.from Wifey :-*, 1 good thing to come out of all this is that he has given me the Benz Bug as my friends like to call it!
Ah man! that must have been heartbreaking!.
I don't know what to say...
I would've freaked out seeing those blisters appear. I would imagine that they took a while to form as well. :o
I hope the second go works out better for you.
Tim
Damn, back to bare metal!! Ditto to all the above, nothing to add.
Except....
More toys! Way to go, and the wife's got the Benz Bug too, bonus. 8)
Not sure how that's achieved, I've tried with oscarette but I think she's defective. Time for a trade in ;D
I love this work!
i understand the reluctance to get back to it. i was just saying the other day after working on goldie (6.9), i dont think ill be doing up another merc with dad for a while. reassembly can be a real SOB!
Car is back home now and it look better than the first paint job.
I have nearly completed the left rear door assembly with the following new parts from
Mercedes-Benz Classic Centre.
Many thanks go to Jon for his excelent service and pricing for this project .
116 738 05 31 Garnish Moulding Top Left
116 738 01 31 Garnish Moulding Front Left
108 728 02 97 PAD x 3
116 738 03 30 Garnish Moulding
115 988 10 78 Clip x 4
116 730 03 80 Body Moulding
001 988 76 81 Fastener Button x7
116 730 03 78 Door Rubber
001 988 24 78 Door Rubber Clip x 5
116 735 01 24 1/4 Glass Rubber
116 725 00 65 Seal Rail x 2
116 730 21 46 Window Regulator
107 766 01 05 Door Handle Pad
107 821 00 97 Hose for electrical through door
As soon as I have it complete with the door trim on I will post some pics
That is just lovely. I am currently helping a friend with a '72 BMW Bavaria, which is currently recieving the early stages of a similar treatment. We need an update! It looks superb from what has been posted.
Quote from: 69ltr on 18 October 2010, 05:44 AM
1 x 420SEL(Wifey Drive Car), 1 x 560SEL(Darren Skid Car) :) and a 380SEL(Parts Shitter).
Darren
PS.from Wifey :-*, 1 good thing to come out of all this is that he has given me the Benz Bug as my friends like to call it!
I'd go apesh!t if that happened to my car, and I'm sure you unloaded a few barrels. Sh!tty how PPG wouldn't admit fault.
"Darren Skid Car" Hahahah... love it. Skid pics?
Good work with the Wifey too.
Look forward to seeing this resto in the metal one day.
this resto is simply amazing - if my girl wasnt my daily driver i'd give this kind of effort a go.
quick question for you pal , what did you pay for the garnish mouldings? i dont imagine these would go back in too well after my paint job and as theyre a bit cloudey even autosol and an hour of elbow grease gives only 80% satisfaction....
cheers :)
All of the parts on the outside of the car so far are NEW.
I am getting a big stockpile of New Parts while the AU$ is good.
On another note .ITS HAPPENED AGAIN.
Went to work on the car on 27th December and the bubbles have returned.
Totally gutted.Is it all worth it?
Next course of action is to see my solicitor and then find someone else to have a go at it.
Maybe Sleeping Beauties.
Good time for a color change.
Back to original or keep the cursed color?
560 for sale as we bought the missus a 2005 C200 Estate that I cant work on
Need the garage space as this new one is number 9 Mercedes,1 Hilux , 1 Falcon Wagon.
Darren
It is possible that there is water in the painters compressor lines.
Bill
Yep , I think that you are right.
After a bit of googling and talking to sereral spray painters , it all seems to come back to moisture
under the paint that can take several months to show its ugly head.
End result: Back to bare metal AGAIN.
I am getting really fast at stripping full doors to nothing.
That is unbelievable. Does the guy not see this happening on any of his other work? That is a serious flaw in his procedure. Good luck, it looked great for a while :-\
It just seems to be the swinging panels on my car.
I have seen Citreons,Mustangs,Vws and chevs at his workshop and to my knowledge ,this is the
only one to come back
seeing as it is in this vein i ask here rather than start a new thread - what is the concensus on stripping paint? i have heard many say that media blasting is best, provided its done correctly and others say you can acid strip panels, hoods, trunk lids, doors etc - but then i have heard issues with acid stripping re removing some silicon?
i have been interested in acid stripping my doors only as there seems to be so much built up crud once you remove the inner panels and body mouldings...
appreciate any tips guys ,
cheers James
Hi Daren i take it this is your car http://www.luxuryfinishes.com.au/Merc_paint.html
Quote from: s class on 02 February 2009, 01:01 AM
Wow, what a woman! Does she have a sister who's single?
That's the thought that came to my mind as well... ;)
Whatever happened to this project? 3 times back to bare metal? no words..