Author Topic: Trunk seal replacement  (Read 704 times)

BenzTragic

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Trunk seal replacement
« on: 14 October 2019, 02:30 AM »
Evening all

I'm just about to embark on the first mini job on my newly acquired 450SE. Fortunately the previous owner purchased the seal but didn't get around to replacing it.

Is it correct that the boot lid has to be removed before the seal can be inserted?

I've also found this glue to use:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/000989927109.htm?pn=000-989-92-71-09-MBZ

Appreciate some advice.

Eric
Current Mercedes
1977 450SE
2001 S430

Past Mercedes
1982 380SEL
1985 280SE

Diesel 617

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Re: Trunk seal replacement
« Reply #1 on: 14 October 2019, 06:23 AM »
That is the same adhesive I have used on Hood pads. For the trunk seal, I used regular autoparts store 3m Black super weatherstip adhesive: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Black-Super-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/?N=5002385+3292908126&rt=rud

Do small sections at a time, a few inches, then apply more adhesive. The stuff dries quick and is an absolute mess to work with. Not for use on hot days adhesive will run everywhere. Slow and steady wins this race. Also take some sand paper and rough up the seal on the side that attaches to the chassis. It allows the sealant to adhere, otherwise it will peel right off. Study the current seal that is on there, and match your new seal up.

The boot lid can remain on, it was not in the way for me.
X3 1980 300SD Blown Heads, trans -Retired
1980 450SEL Parted out
1980 450SEL to Diesel Parted Out
1979 280SE Euro Spec Cloth Seats: Needs Rebuilt head and WUR
1979 300CD Daily Driver


Inventory of w116 Parts
https://www.ebay.com/usr/vintagepartsandstuf

ptashek

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Re: Trunk seal replacement
« Reply #2 on: 14 October 2019, 11:14 AM »
The boot lid can remain in place. It's not a hard job, but do make sure the entire surface is glued in, and pay special attention at the top corners.

The glue that MB sell for this job is indeed Teroson SB2444 / Terokal 2444. Official part number A000989927109, but you can buy it half-price in normal retail.
1993 "Pearl Blue" W124 280TE
1979 "Icon Gold" W116 450SE (history, resto)

daantjie

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Re: Trunk seal replacement
« Reply #3 on: 14 October 2019, 11:23 AM »
You have to be quite liberal with the sealant/glue to keep water out. Any seepage of water under the seal will lead to mucho rust shenanigans :o
Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9 - Astralsilber

Randys01

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Re: Trunk seal replacement
« Reply #4 on: 15 October 2019, 03:23 AM »
When u pull the old seal away, double check that rust has not started half way down the side channels.  It is my observation than when the W116 was made, there is a slight unintentional depression in the channel. All ok until water gets under the seal ,gets trapped and rust is inevitable.
It's a bad design.

UTn_boy

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Re: Trunk seal replacement
« Reply #5 on: 17 October 2019, 05:29 PM »
The answers to your question largely depend on how thorough you want to be.  Removal of the trunk lid is easy and quick, and gives you really good access to the seal channel below the rear glass.   It's best that all of the old glue be removed beforehand, but far too many people don't to this.  The new glue will somewhat stick to the old glue, but the old glue has tendency to pull up later after the seal is installed.....creating a void for moisture/water to get trapped in. 

Do pay attention to the orientation of the seal.  It goes in only one way, but can easily be installed incorrectly.  There is an area of the seal in which the lip stands either more proud or less proud ( I cant remember which)  than the rest of the lip on the seal.  It'll be very obvious when looking at the seal.  This area of the seal is to be placed at the rear (above the tail lights). 
1966 250se coupe`, black/dark green leather
1970 600 midnight blue/parchment leather
1971 300sel 6.3, papyrus white/dark red leather
1973 300sel 4.5, silver blue metallic/blue leather
1976 280s astral silver/blue MB Tex
1978 450sel 6.9 Euro, Anthr/velour

BenzTragic

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Re: Trunk seal replacement
« Reply #6 on: 25 October 2019, 02:10 AM »
The answers to your question largely depend on how thorough you want to be.  Removal of the trunk lid is easy and quick, and gives you really good access to the seal channel below the rear glass.   It's best that all of the old glue be removed beforehand, but far too many people don't to this.  The new glue will somewhat stick to the old glue, but the old glue has tendency to pull up later after the seal is installed.....creating a void for moisture/water to get trapped in. 

Do pay attention to the orientation of the seal.  It goes in only one way, but can easily be installed incorrectly.  There is an area of the seal in which the lip stands either more proud or less proud ( I cant remember which)  than the rest of the lip on the seal.  It'll be very obvious when looking at the seal.  This area of the seal is to be placed at the rear (above the tail lights).

Thanks for that. I don't know why I thought I had to take the lid off. Thanks for the tips.
Current Mercedes
1977 450SE
2001 S430

Past Mercedes
1982 380SEL
1985 280SE

Rolo

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Re: Trunk seal replacement
« Reply #7 on: 25 October 2019, 02:53 PM »
Clean the old adhesive well with 3M Glue Release.  Harmless to paint and your seal will leak if there is old, hardened glue in the well.  It's a back breaking job to clean up.

BenzTragic

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Re: Trunk seal replacement
« Reply #8 on: 28 November 2019, 02:12 AM »
Appreciate if someone (in Australia) can tell me if the following adhesive would be suitable to adhere the boot seal?

https://www.bunnings.com.au/sika-500ml-contact-4600-au-adhesive_p1660980

I contacted my local Mercedes dealer about getting a tin of Terokal.... at $140 a tin I promptly told them where they could stick it!
Current Mercedes
1977 450SE
2001 S430

Past Mercedes
1982 380SEL
1985 280SE