Sun roof drains

[WGB]

I have now migged in the repair of the rust in the sunroof frame in the roof section - only ended up being two short areas near the left front drain.

Before I put it back (with a new frame seal - $31.65 from Diesel Motors) I would like to replace the front pair of rubber drain tubes as the ends were nurgled in removing the rusty tubes attached to the frame.

They appear to be caught at their far ends down the quarter pillar and I do not want to pull too hard and snap one of them.

Any assistance greatfully received.

Rears are perfect as there was no rust at this end of the frame.

Bill

[WGB]

Hi Michel,

I didn't take any pictures but the area is still exposed and my mig job is not that neat - haven't filled it yet and made a smooth surface for the gasket to seal against.

Easy enough to cut small areas out using a Dremel with a small cutting disc and cut and migged in repair areas. Used little sanding drums on a dremel for other minor rusty areas and have "ranexed" the lot.

Next job - I will fill the edge, prime, paint and (Deodorized) Fish Oil the whole lot after the car is painted.

I have a full set of new Sunroof seals as well as the Frame Gasket and now have Two tins of genuine sunroof Paste.

Let me know if you want any pictures and for what reason.

I haven't repaired the actual sun roof frame itself which is very rusty around the drains (I was trying to preserve the structure of the rusty drains which is why the rubber was sacrificed) and will have to be cut and filled.

Bill

[WGB]

I have gone back and photographed the area being repaired.



This is the rough weld as finished and then covered in Ranex to prevent rust. Yet to be ground and filled.

Not a lot of fun sitting in a car welding above your head - just the five small burns on my arm and chest even with protection.



Here is the sunroof frame showing rust damage at the front two drain tubes - not yet repaired.

Bill

[bolbol]

Bill, Its not an easy job, but I have done it . I had dashboard and side fenders off in restoring my car and still it was a hard job. If the tube is not brittle, then chances are it is stuck at the other side where it exits the pillar. In my case, I cut the tube in two parts at the pillar, pulled the upper part throughout the top, and the lower part through the fender. Purchased about three meter of good quality garden hose and started feeding from the top after lubricating it. It is easier when you have someone to help u guide the tube through the pillar, then with a narrow nose pillar I pulled the lower end outside the exit whole, again, fenders off. That was the way I did it.

Bill, I have a feeling that you could do it in another way, Open the front doors and check if you can see the tips of the tubes thought the door slit, now have someone watch and feel the tips while you shake the tubes from the top. if they can feel the shake, and the ends are not brittle, then maybe you can go ahead and pull the tubes. I think the Resistance you are feeling is at the bottom part where  the tube exits the pillar.


good luck

[WGB]

Hi Bolbol,

Thanks for the encouragement and your experience. I have not tried extricating them yet and they feel as if they are caught at their lower ends. I just didn't want to pull the ends off - quite literally, but will have a fish around.

Hi Michel,

I've had a fiddle with the photo's and they've come up in the WGB folder OK. After viewing them they then appeared OK in the posting as well.

As far as rust bubbles go the rust in the roof-structure  itself did not show on the surface of the roof. I have a few bubbles around the right hand side of the opening but the structure underneath is not affected in this area.

Bill

[oscar]

WGB,

I had no idea what you were doing to your 450sel. I'm impressed after viewing your gallery. The pics are a great help. For future work it's a great reference to be able to see what lies beneath the trim.  And the sunroof! I don't have one but no doubt a future purchase will and you all know how much of a trouble spot it can be.  Seeing these pics is a great help.

As for the rest of the 450 pics,
Bloody Hell! Yes I can see what you mean about chrome arches.  I'm going to evaluate how often I take my arches off for a clean underneath.  Great transformation of that rear quarter.  Are you going to do the repaint yourself when the time comes?
If what's true about how you earn a living, you make a decent panelbeater too.  Wish I could do the same.  ie, the panelbeating

Michel,

Were you logged on the first time you you didn't see the pics.  WGB's pics are linked to the member's gallery, hence the red x's you may have seen.  Try logging onto the gallery as well as the forum, then view the thread.  Then go back and check out the rest of WGB's pics.

[WGB]

Thankyou Oscar for the words.

Yes I am a GP in Perth and Yes I rebuilt my first engine when I was 15 years old. Everyone forgets that Doctors are very practical people who are accustomed to problem solving on quite a grand scale at times and some of us don't mind getting our hands dirty.

I have done a lot of panelbeating ( I was an impoverished Medical Student with a taste for interesting cars 35 years ago ) but not a lot of spray painting. Since I have taught myself to weld and MIG over the years I am sure that I will be able to paint as well. I have a son-in-law who is a Hot-rodder and I have access to their expertise if required. As well my usual panel beating firm has said to me that they will paint it for $500 if I prepare the car and supply the paint (Which I already have).

I didn't realise how rusty these cars are and as this is a UK import - doubly so. I ran it for a year (Dry days only) and made it into a reliable daily runner with working aircon until I bought my Porsche 944. Now that the 944 is defunct I will get the 450 going before considering finding a straight 944 body.

All it takes is time and a little money. I'm not after perfection - all I want is a tidy useful daily runner.

Bill

[WGB]

While sanding the door shuts I found the exit points for the sunroof drains.

They are visible in the front quarter panel when the front door is open and lie in line with the front of the front door and the rear of the front wing.

They also appear to go through an angle of about 30 degrees in the front quarter panel which is why they appear to be caught when tugged from above.

There seems to be enough length sticking out to allow the tops to be trimmed and the extra made up by pushing the remainder upwards.

Bill