News:

The ORG - 100% FREE advice!

Main Menu

Rust

Started by skatingandgirlsdontmix, 13 December 2006, 06:46 AM

skatingandgirlsdontmix

folks, i've just recently purchased a 450SEL. 

I purchased it to be solely used on the weekends as a second car and occasionaly during the week.

I noticed the boot had a small bit of rust in the side near the wheel arch.  I also noticed the side panel where the jack goes appears to have been mig welded so I assume rust has been cut out of there before.  There are other areas where rust appears to have been and reapperaing i.e. slight rust bubbles near the sun roof, around the back lights etc. 

My question is how long can I expect to drive the car before its totally consumed by rust.  I am no expert (obviously) and want to get an idea of how long the rust will take to consume the car to the point it is unroadworthy/unsafe?  I know its a "how long is a peice of string question" but any indication would be handy.


AMG69

A long time.  I've seen cars in that shape still driving after 10 years. But eventually they become unsalvageable....dont forget to check under the carpet esp front passenger and driver footwells....nasty suprises under there :o
sigh....sitting back contemplating the next purchase..!

oscar

#2
Hi skater,
Firstly, don't wash your car or only do it during warmer months and wipe it dry then let it finish in the sun.  If you avoid washing the car, use something like Meguiars detailng spray. It's called something like that. I use it as a waterless car wash by spraying an area, wipe with a towel, spray it again and wipe with another clean dry soft towel.  The surface comes up clean and slippery as if just polished.

As far as the boot is concerned, I had rust in similar areas to where your boot rust appeared.  My advice would be to feel underneath where the boot rubber seal goes.  I had rust (holes actually) in the corners where the hinges are.  This led to water leaking in and settling behind both rear arches causing minor rust under the small carpets both sides.  There's also grommets under those two small carpets that may be perished and let water in from the road, but since it doesn't rain in Oz much anymore..... :-[  The rust behind the arches was worse on the right side due to the seal around the fuel filler being cracked too and letting water in.
As for the tail lights - nothing severe except they too let water in, especially the left would let water in to the boot and the lense would partially fill with water if a hose was squirted towards the top of the lense's seal. A common problem whereby the seals age and crack.

Here's what I did - I removed the boot seal and wire brushed both sides back to bare metal and repaired the two holes with bodyfiller, sanded back and painted with a pressure pak.  I then used a clear silicone all round the gutter. ie two lines of silicone right round inner and outer edge of the gutter to stop water going between seal and gutter and effectively glued the rubber seal back in.  The fuel filler cap I smothered with silicone and formed it into the cracks, but should've used silastic perhaps.  And the taillights, without removing, got treatment around the seal with the same silicone from ther gun thingy (name escapes me) and nozzle, then formed into the gap with a wet finger.  Again, perhaps silastic would be more sutiable.  I haven't had water in since.  The rust inside the boot just got a rub back and treated with killrust.

Bubbles near the sunroof are no good. I haven't got a sunroof but others have identified the area as a potential trouble spot.  I can only say get it fixed if you've got the know how or the $. Like AMG69 says, don't forget the front footwells.  Check under the carpets and foam and from the external parts of the front arches.

So how long should it stay roadworthy, I'd say a looong time if you keep it dry.  The bubbles are bad spots but anywhere else with surface rust, especially hidden, could be treated with killrust then deodorised fish oil spray (which still smells IMO) as a stop gap.  I have rust holes in my battery tray and surface rust below the windscreen washer bottle thanks to a leaky washer bottle.  These areas were treated with said stop-gap measure and the rust hasn't advanced at all in 3 years.  The only thing is, when I do get round to respraying the engine bay, that area below the wash bottle is going to need a really, really good clean.  Fishoil's a bugger to remove.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Brian Crump

Another spot to check for rust is at the base of the windscreen close to the A pillars. Water can collect under a perished windscreen seal, rust through and drip into the cabin and rust the floor - and it can still look OK on the outside. When I purchased my 450SE I took out the screens, checked for rust and put in new seals (and a front screen). The cost was very reasonable. I am just a little paranoid about rust having owned a series of Lancias where a re-build was a bi annual affair...
Regards,
Brian

s class

I used to live in a coastal area with a high rust factor.  I have cars from those days that have small amounts of rust.  I've now been living the last 8 years in an area with low humidity, and these cars live in a dry garage and never see water.  The rust is sort of frozen in time.  It hasn't advanced at all in the last 8 years.

Water is your big enemy.  I agree with the other posters - you can go a long way by trying to find where the water was getting in to cause your rust, and solving that problem to prevent anymore getting in. 

Realise that existing rust areas tend to consist of layers, or flakes of rusty material.  These areas do a great job of trapping and retaining moisture which only worsens the situation. 

Ryan in HOT South Africa


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

skatingandgirlsdontmix

thanks to all for your posts, they are really informative.......

alabbasi

Do you know where all the rust is? If so, go buy some stuff called POR 15 and paint it on the areas that are rusty. The wont rust anymore (paint it on panels that you cant see).

You can also use other products like Waxoyl to slow it down.
With best regards

Al
Dallas, TX USA.