Rust Repairs & Restoration

[Mforcer]

Perhaps its time to consider chemical dipping the doors 

My doors aren't that bad

[Big_Richard]

Perhaps its time to consider chemical dipping the doors 

My doors aren't that bad

not saying they are, but it would be awesome to chemical dip strip them, and then dip them with corrosion inhibitor too 

You did say you never want to deal with rust again . . ..

[TJ 450]

The bitumen panels inside are for sound deadening... Indeed, it is not actually necessary to cover the entire panel for it to be effective. It is a compromise to minimise weight, as what you are doing with those deadening panels is lowering the resonant frequency to that which isn't offensive. Obviously more mass=lower resonant frequency.

I do concur with MT, as the doors are a standard rust problem area.

I am going to look into chemical dipping and powder coating my 6.9's sunroof frame... It wouldn't hurt to get a quote for those doors, Mforcer, as they'll need to come off anyway... But don't feel at all pressured, as I never had any such treatment done to my 6.9's doors.

Do you know that the sunroof frames are not even primed... it is not very satisfactory IMO.

Tim

[Mforcer]

No pressure I would consider the chemical dipping but it is just not in the budget. There is nothing left in the budget after the new leather, carpets, rubber bits and paint

[Big_Richard]

Do you know that the sunroof frames are not even primed... it is not very satisfactory IMO.

Tim

Overall MB isn't the absolute pinnacle of engineering excellence that people seem to think it is. Many aspects of the W116 could of and should of been better, but wasn't. The same can be said for the current range.

[Mforcer]

It's good to know my car will not be better than original

[Big_Richard]

.

[TJ 450]

The 600 was quite an achievement, but like all things built by human beings by a business, the budget has to end somewhere.

But yes, to give the sunroof frames a bit of credit, they have lasted well beyond the expected life of the car.

Do you know that the sunroof frames are not even primed... it is not very satisfactory IMO.

Tim

Overall MB isn't the absolute pinnacle of engineering excellence that people seem to think it is. Many aspects of the W116 could of and should of been better, but wasn't. The same can be said for the current range.

[Tony66_au]

I am going to look into chemical dipping and powder coating my 6.9's sunroof frame...

Do you know that the sunroof frames are not even primed... it is not very satisfactory IMO.

Tim

Tim instead of powder coating may I suggest you have a look at POR15?

Powercoating tends to add a degree of girth or thickness and as the sunroof frame is a bugger to reinstall  im suspecting it may get damaged highlighting another issue with powdercoating, once the surface is broken its effectiveness is compromised and there is no quick fix.

Ive used POR15 for a while and its impact and scratch resistant AND you can patch it if you do manage to damage it.

Cheers,
Tony

[TJ 450]

Tony,

Can you get POR15 in a format suitable for spraying? If so that may be the go.

I thought about the issues with powder coating, having seen it fail on cast alloy street lighting luminaires and other utilitarian/industrial applications after only a few years.

My powder coated rear subframe still looks the goods though.

Tim

[Mforcer]

I have just had confirmation that the front and rear screens have come out and ready for more fun tomorrow But what next to remove; Fenders? Doors? Sun roof? Is there anything else I should be considering having come this far already?

When removing the doors from the body, where is the best point to disconnect the vacuum tubes and wiring (assuming not obvious once I have started)? Would it be silly not to remove the window mechanisms and locks etc in the doors if going to the trouble or removing the doors?

Any tips on removing the sun roof apart from passing it through the rear window? I assume it is a 2 person job.

I am aware of needing to heat and soften the glue between the fenders and the body as per the instructions in the service manual.

[koan]

When removing the doors from the body, where is the best point to disconnect the vacuum tubes and wiring (assuming not obvious once I have started)?

I replaced the rubber accordion tubes where the vacuum and wiring run through in to the doors. The vacuum plumbing from the driver's side valve ends up in the top right of the dash, just about impossible to reach. I'd recommend disconnection in the doors.  (Note: could be my aversion to working under the dash)

koan

[Mforcer]

I took the easy way out and removed the fenders on the weekend. I wasn't up for disconnecting all the hoses and wiring in the doors and trying to support the sunroof while unbolting it didn't seem enjoyable either.

After removing all the bolts from the fenders, it was a relatively simple effort to lift them off the body. They must have been removed in the past for previous paint work as no heating or cutting was necessary.



The little bit of surface rust under the paint did not come through to the back of the panel. I was very glad to see everything looking relatively good behind them once all the dirt was brushed away. There was a lot of dirt especially in the enclosed area near the doors.



What is the flaking black stuff on the back of the panel?







More rust but still confined to the same general location.


Where does this drain from?


[Updated with photos]

[jjb-w116-hu]

hi Mforcer - this sounds like good news indeed - i am hoping to get a similar thing done too , albeit i didnt get there in the end this weekend. a bit of bad weather and a slow week means i might get a chance to in the next few days mind you.
good luck with your efforts pal. it certainly is a case of the more you get to know these cars, the more you love them.

[Mforcer]

the more you get to know these cars, the more you love them.

I agree

I just hope the love remains as I struggle to put everything back together!