The ones between the unit and the body. Are they still available and if so any links?
A1168260158 left
A1168260258 right
available at any dealer @40 euro eash
A word of caution with these, it's very easy to break the studs or crack the lenses with new seals. I would only tighten the nuts a little beyond finger tight and check every few days that they haven't worked loose for a while. It's not uncommon to find a cracked tail light after a few days if they are overtightened.
Tim
Indeed this can turn out to be a nightmare job if you are not taking your time. Kent @ mercedessource has a great vid on this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9K3HkJbELk
Like said, this job is a pain in the ass. Don't ever want to do it again.
Thanks for the part numbers those for the R107 SL are the same but for 107 instead of 116. Are they the same? Some of the parts are interchangeable I know but if no one can tell me should I risk it? I say that because the SL specialist not far from here has them in stock.
Watched Kent's video. Who would have thought that it was so difficult although he made it seem easy. Got both lights out without problem but he gave a few good tips on replacing them. Also watched the old film of the production line https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_NKoMF3k38 they don't seem to take any care and just knock them in complete.
Hi Mark
I can confirm that the type W116 (1972) owes many of its stying cues from the types R107/C107 (1971). Although our front indicators and the rear tail lamps look almost identical, the certainly are not. You will need to get the tail light seal specific for a W116.
I can't remember if Kent says to use some silicone grease on the seal when installing the seal-to-the-frames-to-the-body, but I can vouch that this makes the seating much easier. Also try to tighten the nuts evenly when doing the job so as not to distort the aluminium frame (or it will always leak), remembering to fasten the nut that sits on the rear fender last. As Tim says, retighten if you must a few days later. Always do a water leak test to see that the seals are indeed water-tight. Don't use any silicone sealer.
Good luck with the job.
Thank you
Thanks for this thread guys
Mine also need replacing, water is getting in the boot :-\
Quote from: Wessel Badenhorst on 22 August 2018, 03:13 AM
Thanks for this thread guys
Mine also need replacing, water is getting in the boot :-\
Finally received my new seals from the dealer today