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MTC window regulators

Started by rumb, 23 March 2022, 03:35 PM

OLDGOLD

MTC is garbage! Broke a week later. I ended up ordering a manual window crank from Germany since I use my driver window so often.

Scotty

MTC are no good and can't be reconditioned. After some time of erratic front windows, I found in Brisbane an outfit that will recondition only original fitment regulators/motor (Bosch?) Although expensive  I was very please with the result.

Therefore my advice would be to find some original fitment regulator/motor arrangements and spend the money to have them reconditioned.

The regulators and motors are available through MB Australia but are double the cost of reconditioning the old ones.

rumb

I've been straightening 3 complete sets of regulators. Got it down pretty well now. First I remove the motor and then soak the whole thing is solvent overnight and scrub the old grease out.  Some are like glue. I have fashioned some 1.5" square tubing sections with cuttouts to fit around the various mounting protrusions on the frame. I clamp this bar along the worse edge, with a screw driver tip inserted beneath the gear (to keep that spacing proper).  You can then clamp the frame flat. Next I take a maps gas torch and heat the frame for @20 seconds or so where the bend are/were.  The frame melts at a pretty low temp- you can watch for a very small spot 1/16" diameter to actually melt and then the warp will be reset to the clamped straight.  Then I cool in water and move on the other warped areas.  Some you can figure out how to clamp the bar again, but others I leave the bar clamped to the opposite side for leverage and support and then use large channel lock pliers to grap the end bolt mounting area.  You can again heat the frame in the appropriate area and then use the pliers to bend the area flat.  When heating watch out there are several little nylon guide under the gear, try and stay away from them so they dont melt. You may not get everything completely flat, but it will be much better.  Some had warpage of over 3/4". Then I spray lithium grease around the pivot points, and lube the side where the rubbing blocks ride on the side of the gear and also the piece that attaches to the arm.  Remount the motor and test.

So far I had one frame that just would not work and one motor that was too weak.

Hopefully they will last another 25 years before they warp again.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS