I made a template for the rear jacking point*.

[olives17]

Hi guys.

TLDR:
Attached is the a CAD drawing of the rear jacking point. The drawing is based on hand measurements I made my myself using two butchered jacking points and fits my car and all measurements and angles are slightly off! If you want a properly measured and constructed one, contact Rumb on this forum.
 
In my quest to restore my w116 I made up a drawing for the rear jacking point as mine were gone. I would buy a new one, but being a student and NOK->USD exchange rate being what its is, I tried to make my own.


The caveat to this is that the dimensions and angles of pretty much every measurement is off, so the fit is "such-and-such". The drawing was also made to fit my inner rocker, where the bottom "floor" and one inch of the "wall" was completely gone along the whole length of the car, so in my particular case, the height of the jacking point is 149mm, yours will be different. It also designed using 2mm (12ga) steel, the original was 1.5mm, which is not readily available in Norway, so 2mm it was..

If you would like a rear jacking point that has been properly measured out and put together, I suggest you PM Rumb here on this forum. He has taken his sweet time to measure and draw up the jacking point correctly and sells them for a very nice price! Its also nice to support forum members who help the w116 community!!


The drawing enclosed is not a pretty one, I made it for myself to fit my car. On sheet 1 there are some dimensions and how it should look once fully bent. On sheet two is the template, cut it out with sciccors and glue it to the steel sheet and bend using the bend lines. Its made for A4 paper, and is 1:1 scale.

Drill ø5mm holes where marked, up to the lines to help relieve the bends.
 
I would recommend drilling the ø5 and ø20mm holes first, then bending the tabs, then the beads, then clamp the piece using two 25x25mm angle-iron in the vice and bend the main folds.


On sheet 1 there is a hole marked "ø4", this is supposed to be "ø8".
This drawing does not include the pipe, only the "shell"
The crosses at the ends of each bead is not to be drilled, only for clearly showing where it ends.