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(Help) New Dash Install

Started by bbnlv, 22 July 2012, 12:19 PM


If I roach this dash I'm blaming it all on you guys!   :P

Squiggle Dog

Quote from: bbnlv on 24 July 2012, 03:48 PM
If I roach this dash I'm blaming it all on you guys!   :P

Except for me because I recommended taking out the windshield first. Just kidding. It sounds like that won't be a problem, though. I didn't think that removing the dashboard without removing the center console was possible without damaging anything either, but I may be wrong about this, too.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+



Save yourself some headache and remove the center console, that will give you more room to work and minimize any risk of damage to the brand new dash. Good luck and let us know how it goes.




I just got the wood back from Madera Concepts and it looks incredible.  I also made a quick trip out to the junk yard today and found this pristine shift gate and Hazard button to freshen up the new wood!  (Got both for under $10.00!)


I forgot to add Madera Concepts had to re burl the climate control piece as well and it looks as new and you would never know!


Boo!!!  That hazard button is too big!  Oh well ebay!


I fired up the car today and played around with the climate control and I still cant get the center air doors to activate.  Im not about to install this dash until everything underneath is working properly.

The AC pump comes on and only the defrost works.... the elements are all new.... fuses are good.... I had 2 other amplifiers I picked up at the junkyard and another push button assembly.  I tried every variation of all of them....  So now Im going to print the service manual and start looking....   I hate to have to take it into the shop because they are going to shotgun every part available into this car and it will cost $1000.00 of dollars..   Here goes!!


That wood looks fantastic!!!  I wish they had a division here....
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1978 6.9 #1776 (Dora)
1977 450SEL #7010 white -P
1975 450SEL #8414 gold -P

TJ 450

Very nice wood indeed!

Yes, I too would be making sure everything works under the dash, it would be a PITA having to remove it again.

That's a W123 hazard switch if I remember correctly.

1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500


Quote from: TJ 450 on 12 August 2012, 04:11 AM
That's a W123 hazard switch if I remember correctly.

Yes.  Evolution of the Mercedes hazard switch:

The left is early W123, the middle is W116, and the right is late W123 (or W126, W201, W124, ...).  These are the triangle varieties which I prefer (I've got a better W116 triangle one now), but the earlier two are both available with the hazard text as you have (which seems to be far more common).  I was going to post about this asking why the early switches are so big and etc.  The early W123 one is a tight fit even in an appropriate W123!  You have to make sure to have your wiring arranged carefully, or you can't get the center console trim to stay down. :P

I notice (to the OP) that you're in Las Vegas and buying bits on eBay.  Be very cautious of the seller named "successsuccess1" on eBay - he has a whole lot of W116 junk parts on eBay (generally overpriced and dodgy quality), and ripped me off for hundreds of dollars last year.  I bought a front clip and fender described as perfect from him, having it shipped across the country at a pretty high expense.  Both arrived with dents and significant damage.  Although seller described his packing methods involving lots of styrofoam and such, the parts arrived floating around freely in otherwise empty cardboard boxes.  Seller tried to claim the damage happened in shipment (guess that's why he forgot packaging).  I argued that pre-existing dents don't have years worth of rust build-up where the paint flaked off from the impact - despite horrid packing, there was no damage from shipping or damage to the cardboard.  Over the next several months, we exchanged E-mails wherein the seller would promise to send better replacements or refund money, neither of which ever happened.  I finally just gave up and called it a loss, because I think too much time passed since the purchase to get eBay/PayPal to do anything about it anyways.

I am pretty sure I have a perfect-shape "hazard" text W116 switch I could sell if you want.


Let me hold off on it for now... I just grabbed this one because it was pristine... Ill sell it on ebay I guess....  Right now my biggest focus is the climate control system and weather or not to pitch the servo for a UT conversion.  Today I might read the climate control service manual and see if I can figure it out.....  I like the UT conversion because its simple and removes the amplifier, the servo and its vacuum/electrical/bimetal vacuum doo dad thing. 



Since you have gone through all the trouble and expense of replacing all vacuum actuators and dash, have you also purchased a rebuild servo and amp from George Murphy? If not, I suggest you go ahead bite the bullet and do it, you will have a fully functional ACC for years to come. Personally I am not a fan of the UT mod because if you have problems with it diagnostics and repairs might be more difficult.

A bad amp will cause the problems you describe, in fact the same thing happened to my 78 450SEL last week and luckily I had a working spare spare unit in hand so all is well now.




If I do anything major it will be the UT system.  The ability to get rid of the servo and the amplifier are two bonuses and 2 fewer things to  have to play around with. For now I am going to be checking all my vacuum lines from the servo out and see if I have any leaks!