Heater flap / foam replacement and other interior maladies

[UTn_boy]

Carl,

the heater box can be removed without removing the dash. Of course the center console must come out.
See chapter 83-100 in the workshop manual, this is the only way this should be done.
Refoam all 8 flaps.
Plan a day to remove the heater box, 2h to redo the flaps and another day to reinstall the heater box.

Water from behind the fuse box: this will be one of your bigger problems, should be corrosion, not easy to access.
Do it while the heater box is out, you may need the extra space on the inside.

Thomas

Thomas, job number 88-100 only covers Detachable Body Components. In particular it covers fenders, bumpers, engine hood, and  grill shell removal. 

Only under job number 68, which is "Interior Equipment", is where removal of the center console is covered.  Job number 68-200, 68-220, and 68-230 cover removal of the center console. 

[tcj]

Thomas, job number 88-100 only covers Detachable Body Components

Hi UTn_boy,

misreading? Have a look at 83-100 (not 88-100).

regards,
Thomas

[Diesel 617]

Perhaps try regular window foam something like this:
https://www.menards.com/main/doors-windows-millwork/weather-stripping/3-16-x-3-8-x-10-low-density-foam-multi-purpose-weather-seal/p-1459185068344-c-3624.htm?tid=4843932042747364526&ipos=11

3/16" x 3/8" x 10' Low-density Foam Multi-Purpose Weather seal

As for the floor liner, if you want to give your car a serious sound deadening upgrade (really eliminate that road noise). I've done research as to the best material for it. A fairly simple task to do your self, cost wise is reasonable  for the entire car doors, and floors (i think I even included the roof). Here is the material list (all from amazon)
263.90$ usd
Uxcell Roller 8.14
Nico 80mil 36sqft closed foam butyl (x2) 63.90/127.80 --1st layer
Nico Liner 157ml 37.5sqft (x2) 55/110 --2nd layer
Nico small roller 9.99
3m 0358 adhesive 8.98 x2 17.96 --apply between 1st and 2nd layer, allows 2nd layer to adhere to 1t

An added bonus you will now be able to have a professional sound system installed 

[tcj]

as this low density foam is highly compressible it will not work.

I used some self adheisive felt with good results (used to isolate heating pipes here in germany).

Try "Wickelfilz selbstklebend" on ebay.de to see what I used.

Regards,
Thomas

[UTn_boy]

Thomas, job number 88-100 only covers Detachable Body Components

Hi UTn_boy,

misreading? Have a look at 83-100 (not 88-100).

regards,
Thomas

Thomas, I mis-typed.  I meant to say 83-100.  I've looked again, and 83 does not have anything about center console removal.  It's in job number 68 in my books.  Maybe they moved it? 

[TJ 450]

Hi Carl,

Good luck with the job, it's not too bad a job with the seats out of the car, but it can be done with them installed too. I've never done it with the dash in-situ, it is easier with the dash out as you can just pull the whole unit. I suspect some disassembly will be required with the dash in, and as said previously you'll definitely want to do it this way if you can. The problem is that new dashes are flexible where the old ones are not, and the corner gets destroyed during removal as the brittle vinyl flexes.

I used Dynamat throughout my blue 6.9, including on the firewall and will say that if you use Dynamat alone, it isn't effective at reducing noise in the cabin. What you need is a combination of Dynamat on the panels and some kind of heavy duty damping material to attenuate the noise.

Tim

[tcj]

Hi UTn_boy,

83-100 is about removing the heater case as thats what Carl wants to do.
And on page 1 of 83-100 it refers to 68-100 to remove the center console.

Thomas,

[UTn_boy]

The center console was what I was referring to.  Not the heater matrix. 

[Olds57]

Thomas: I am a newbe to the forum, but the comment that the dash does not have to be removed is a blessing. The heater core in my 74 450  SEL has a minor leak. With only 51 K original miles I would hate to damage any interior part during removal or re install.
Now If I can only find the nerve to tackle the project. !!!
Regards,

[floyd111]

Unless it's really cheap, I would say there's no need for the Dynaliner. The Dynamat itself has astonishing qualities. For me, it's one of those once-in-a-decade value-for-money product that performs beyond belief. I want to try it in my house walls and I want to wrap my kids in it from Sunday morning breakfast to lunch

[carl888]

Thank you all for the suggestions, it is most appreciated.

I will get into this job next year, just before winter arrives.  In the meantime, I'll enjoy the air conditioning over the summer here!

CJ

[rumb]

The OEM underlay is NLA.  has anyone used Dynamat to replace the floor insulation?  It's come highly recommended from some friends in the trade:

http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/automotive-restoration/dynapad/

I got a tube of white and black caulking and re coated the entire top and bottom surfaces of the floor mats using a wide tool. the new material is flexible and covers all the old cracks,  I put about 1/8" of material over everything.