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Euro light question

Started by 1980sdga, 15 December 2011, 09:54 AM


I think the ideal "near stock" solution would be to lose the battery cooling duct:

and plumb the breather hose to the duct under the headlight.  I don't see any issues with just taking air from under the hood but MB thought it was a good idea to feed ze turbosupercharged engine with cool air from outside the engine compartment.  They also went to great lengths to ventilate the battery as well...

Can someone explain the little adjustment lever on top and the vacuum leveling system?

Another picture with the duct and louvered valance. It needs one on each side for brake cooling...


1980sdga - Thanks fro the additional pics. I guess the louvered panel section goes below the lights? I don't seem to have the bike seat vent section you posted. Do you have a picture of that vent in place? My battery surround (protector or whatever the name) has vents at the top but is see no attachment point for the vent type you have.

If it's not broke i haven't fix it yet...

1980 300SD, 170K
1985 300D, 235K


It's an odd arrangement. There are the ducts you show on the battery surround as well as the duct beneath the battery box.  The "bicycle seat front" leads to a hole in the bottom of the battery tray.

I lost the duct and valences because my wiper setup took up the space.


You could cut a bunch of slots in your fender like some 190Ds did.


Guess i need to pull the battery and have a look see. Don't recall the hole when i replaced the battery though?
If it's not broke i haven't fix it yet...

1980 300SD, 170K
1985 300D, 235K

Squiggle Dog

The hole should be in the bottom of the battery tray, but it is possible that one from a 450SEL was installed because those were the same size but had no hole on the bottom.

Also, you are very fortunate to still have your battery shroud. These tend to get thrown out and they are very hard to find. I looked for one for years.

Taking in air from the louvers under the headlight would work. I'm moving to Arizona, so I want the battery cooler to still function, but a custom intake could be plumbed into it so that the battery cooler still functions.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+



I just installed Euro lights on my 1979 300SD. It's true that the Euros seal off the cool air intake. What I did was cut a hole(using a jigsaw) in the bottom of the hard plastic
air intake piece(about the size of an Xtra lg egg). Problem solved.


No, unless you have UK, Oz, or South African RHD, the beam will be very sharp and flat across the road and slant up at a 45 degree angle to the right. Very important to aim them correctly. Otherwise you either won't reap the great benefits of the E-code lights or will pi*# everyone off. The German TUV has very precise guidance on how to aim the headlights. Just did my new-to-me 350SE. Superb night vision. I also recommend that special optically true clear plastic sheeting to protect those nice bright new "eyes" fro stone damage.

1975 Euro 350SE
1992 Euro C124 300CE-24 Sportline 5-speed Getrag
2002 R170 SLK320 6-speed
1986 190E 2.3-16 - sold
1987 W126 300SDL -sold
1994 E420 - sold
1968 W108 250SE - sold
1962 W111 220Sb - sold
1969 Porsche 911T, 911S
1980 911SC
1974 Citroen DS23


Where would one locate clear plastic optical sheeting of correct thickness & fit for Euro lights?