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Doors - concertina hose

Started by marku, 08 July 2018, 10:57 AM

marku

Can't think what to call it - the short hose that carries the vacuum lines and electrical cable between door pillar and door. Mine have just about disintegrated and as I have been refurbishing the doors thought they could do with replacing. I am assuming that they are no longer available so has any one an alternative?
1974 450SE silver green/bamboo velour/green vinyl roof

TJ 450

For the fronts, I used the W201 version without a problem although the originals may still be available. The rear ones I have new ones, still not fitted yet though after some years.

It may be worth confirming part numbers and availability with the Classic Centre or Pelican Parts etc.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Alec300SD

The MB part number is 107-821-00-97, and is probably still available from the classic center.

Here is a link to the DIY tread from 2014.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/362539-diy-pictorial-replacing-rubber-boots-cabin-door.html
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

rumb

front door is available , rear is not 116-821-00-97


I plan on using the front on the rear, though I have not done it yet, so dont know if that will work or not.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

Squiggle Dog

Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

rumb

dang,  I bought 4 last year. your right they are NLA now   :'(
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

raueda1

How hard is the replacement job after you've got the door panel off?
-Dave
Now:  1976 6.9 Euro, 2015 GL550
Before that:  1966 230S, 1964 220SE coupe, 1977 Carrera 3.0

Squiggle Dog

Quote from: raueda1 on 08 July 2018, 06:28 PM
How hard is the replacement job after you've got the door panel off?

I think it's just unplugging the vacuum lines from the rubber connectors, unscrewing the window motor wiring from the junction block on the regulator, placing the rubber ducts in the doors, then feeding the lines and wiring back through and connecting them.
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

rumb

Maybe others are more adapt than I am, but I think you have to remove the entire door to thread the stiff air lines and wires out of the door and back on again. I dont think you can bend the air lines that tightly to get them out of just the door jamb opening.

BTW the air line is held to the bottom corner of the inside of the door with a black ratchet strap,  a real pain to release.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

TJ 450

Yep, it's an absolute bastard of a job. The vacuum lines are brittle and don't tolerate much flexing at all. Removing the door is actually the best option, otherwise you'll be battling to feed the wiring and vac lines through the pillars as well as into the door.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Squiggle Dog

Remove the doors?! How insane! I guess I better replace them while my dashboard is still out, because I can just disconnect the vacuum lines at the connectors under the dash area and slide out the lines that way.
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

Alec300SD

No need to remove the doors or the hard vacuum  lines.

From the third paragraph of the DIY thread referenced in Post # 3:  "Basically, the wiring harness is removed from the door (the vacuum lines in the door stay in place) and then the replacement boot is fed through the hole in the door. The new boot is flexible enough to be manipulated into place unscathed when the wiring harness is out of the way. There is no need to use lubricant to install the boots. Periodic use of a good protectant will keep your new boots supple for a long time."

It is a bit tedious, but doable.


78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Squiggle Dog

Quote from: Alec300SD on 09 July 2018, 03:30 PM
No need to remove the doors or the hard vacuum  lines.

From the third paragraph of the DIY thread referenced in Post # 3:  "Basically, the wiring harness is removed from the door (the vacuum lines in the door stay in place) and then the replacement boot is fed through the hole in the door. The new boot is flexible enough to be manipulated into place unscathed when the wiring harness is out of the way. There is no need to use lubricant to install the boots. Periodic use of a good protectant will keep your new boots supple for a long time."

It is a bit tedious, but doable.

Now that sounds like a much better way of doing it!
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

marku

Thanks for all that advice. Yes its a pain trying to do it even threading it through from the inside as suggested. I did take the door off as I was doing other work. The vacuum lines and cables were secured by ties just inside of the door conduit, as I have now learned to call it, and they were particularly difficult to get at. There are lots online for that part number, are the rears the same? The SL Shop here has them for 6.95. I couldn't find them on the EPC to check the part number for the 116.
1974 450SE silver green/bamboo velour/green vinyl roof

rumb

Quote from: Alec300SD on 09 July 2018, 03:30 PM
No need to remove the doors or the hard vacuum  lines.

From the third paragraph of the DIY thread referenced in Post # 3:  "Basically, the wiring harness is removed from the door (the vacuum lines in the door stay in place) and then the replacement boot is fed through the hole in the door. The new boot is flexible enough to be manipulated into place unscathed when the wiring harness is out of the way. There is no need to use lubricant to install the boots. Periodic use of a good protectant will keep your new boots supple for a long time."

It is a bit tedious, but doable.

wow, never even thought of that way.  sounds a lot easier that way.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio