Topic: Doors - concertina hose

[marku]

Can't think what to call it - the short hose that carries the vacuum lines and electrical cable between door pillar and door. Mine have just about disintegrated and as I have been refurbishing the doors thought they could do with replacing. I am assuming that they are no longer available so has any one an alternative?

[TJ 450]

For the fronts, I used the W201 version without a problem although the originals may still be available. The rear ones I have new ones, still not fitted yet though after some years.

It may be worth confirming part numbers and availability with the Classic Centre or Pelican Parts etc.

Tim

[Alec300SD]

The MB part number is 107-821-00-97, and is probably still available from the classic center.

Here is a link to the DIY tread from 2014.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/362539-diy-pictorial-replacing-rubber-boots-cabin-door.html

[rumb]

front door is available , rear is not 116-821-00-97


I plan on using the front on the rear, though I have not done it yet, so dont know if that will work or not.

[Squiggle Dog]

The fronts (107 821 00 97) are no longer available. I got new aftermarket ones here: https://www.sls-hh-shop.de/main/en/mercedes-280-500sl-c-r-c107-/54-b-61-rubbergrommets/rubber-hose-grommet-doors-to-pillar-p-13631

[rumb]

dang,  I bought 4 last year. your right they are NLA now   

[raueda1]

How hard is the replacement job after you've got the door panel off?

[Squiggle Dog]

How hard is the replacement job after you've got the door panel off?

I think it's just unplugging the vacuum lines from the rubber connectors, unscrewing the window motor wiring from the junction block on the regulator, placing the rubber ducts in the doors, then feeding the lines and wiring back through and connecting them.

[rumb]

Maybe others are more adapt than I am, but I think you have to remove the entire door to thread the stiff air lines and wires out of the door and back on again. I dont think you can bend the air lines that tightly to get them out of just the door jamb opening.

BTW the air line is held to the bottom corner of the inside of the door with a black ratchet strap,  a real pain to release.

[TJ 450]

Yep, it’s an absolute bastard of a job. The vacuum lines are brittle and don’t tolerate much flexing at all. Removing the door is actually the best option, otherwise you’ll be battling to feed the wiring and vac lines through the pillars as well as into the door.

Tim

[Squiggle Dog]

Remove the doors?! How insane! I guess I better replace them while my dashboard is still out, because I can just disconnect the vacuum lines at the connectors under the dash area and slide out the lines that way.

[Alec300SD]

No need to remove the doors or the hard vacuum  lines.

From the third paragraph of the DIY thread referenced in Post # 3:  "Basically, the wiring harness is removed from the door (the vacuum lines in the door stay in place) and then the replacement boot is fed through the hole in the door. The new boot is flexible enough to be manipulated into place unscathed when the wiring harness is out of the way. There is no need to use lubricant to install the boots. Periodic use of a good protectant will keep your new boots supple for a long time."

It is a bit tedious, but doable.

[Squiggle Dog]

No need to remove the doors or the hard vacuum  lines.

From the third paragraph of the DIY thread referenced in Post # 3:  "Basically, the wiring harness is removed from the door (the vacuum lines in the door stay in place) and then the replacement boot is fed through the hole in the door. The new boot is flexible enough to be manipulated into place unscathed when the wiring harness is out of the way. There is no need to use lubricant to install the boots. Periodic use of a good protectant will keep your new boots supple for a long time."

It is a bit tedious, but doable.

Now that sounds like a much better way of doing it!

[marku]

Thanks for all that advice. Yes its a pain trying to do it even threading it through from the inside as suggested. I did take the door off as I was doing other work. The vacuum lines and cables were secured by ties just inside of the door conduit, as I have now learned to call it, and they were particularly difficult to get at. There are lots online for that part number, are the rears the same? The SL Shop here has them for 6.95. I couldn't find them on the EPC to check the part number for the 116.

[rumb]

No need to remove the doors or the hard vacuum  lines.

From the third paragraph of the DIY thread referenced in Post # 3:  "Basically, the wiring harness is removed from the door (the vacuum lines in the door stay in place) and then the replacement boot is fed through the hole in the door. The new boot is flexible enough to be manipulated into place unscathed when the wiring harness is out of the way. There is no need to use lubricant to install the boots. Periodic use of a good protectant will keep your new boots supple for a long time."

It is a bit tedious, but doable.

wow, never even thought of that way.  sounds a lot easier that way.