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Door Switch

Started by 69-300, 10 May 2016, 09:08 AM

Harv

Quote from: Zaxxon on 15 May 2016, 03:10 PM
That is how mine is too - only one pin switch, the location below is capped off with a square cover, but would fit another pin switch just like the one for the interior light.

My guess is because of how the diesel utilizes the vacuum pump from the motor.
1980 300SD
1983 240D
2000 E55 AMG
2002 G500

revilla

so we know of 3 variations now:
2 switches: 1 for dome light + 1 for window lifting with ignition at 0 position (John and I identical setup).  No buzzer of any kind
2 switches: 1 for dome light + 1 for buzzer indicating key left in ignition, car off, door open
1 switch:  1 for dome light.  2nd sw slot covered

seat belt buzzer anybody?


daantjie

#17
I have the driver seat occupied sensor which buzzes for a few seconds until you click the seat belt in. The warning light also comes on on  the dash but goes off if you click it or after a few seconds even if you don't. I think its the 5th gen of this system. Will have to check the service manual.
Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9 - Astralsilber

Zaxxon

Mine has one switch, seat belt light in the dash, seat belt buzzer as well as headlight on buzzer and interior light with a delay shut-off.
---
Mercedes: '99 CL500, '86 500SEC, '96 SL500, '06 R500, '02 ML320, '78 450SEL
Porsche: '80 928S 5-Speed, '86.5 928S RogerBox '86.5 928S 5-Speed, '83 944
Others: '84 Callaway Alfa Romeo GTV6, '83 Tiara, '87 FZ

floyd111

I don't know about the buzzer-thing, but there would be little need to have a second switch for a buzzer. Logically, both functions could be triggered by 1 switch only.
The second hole is present and capped for the car-alarm option.

What I found out is that those alarms were always dealer-installed, not factory, even though officially MB.
Other holes for switches would be drilled where/when needed, in gasoline flap, trunk, bonnet and glove compartment, each triggering the alarm when opened while the alarm is active.
To activate/de-activate the alarm one would need special door locks for the front doors, especially supplied for those with factory alarms.
I bought them, that's how I know.

revilla

Quote from: floyd111 on 01 June 2016, 06:25 PM
...The second hole is present and capped for the car-alarm option.
Not the case.  As stated by others earlier in the thread, the 2nd SW let you roll the electric window up/down even if key is out of ignition, or buzzer to indicate key left in ignition.  Why 2nd hole ONLY in driver's door?  I doubt a MB engineer would have added the provisions for alarm 2nd SW ONLY to the driver's door and not on the other 5 locations.  It just doesn't make sense.  The 2nd SW in driver's door had other purposes.

Quote from: floyd111 on 01 June 2016, 06:25 PM
Other holes for switches would be drilled where/when needed, in gasoline flap, trunk, bonnet and glove compartment, each triggering the alarm when opened while the alarm is active.

??? Why to cannibalize a car like that? Technically, an alarm of those days could have been hooked to factory harness with no drilling which welcomes corrosion (e.g. front/rear dome lights come ON using existing SW's in all 4 doors, trunk and bonnet).   Alarm would go off if any of these 6 existing SW's close the circuit. A much less invasive procedure and especially no need for drilling.   

The mystery that still remains is why/when and in what versions the 2nd SW started to be used for either of the 2 functions described above. 

midnitesunmerc

My '77 California 280SE has the double switch on the driver's door, one for the front interior light and one for the key-in-ignition buzzer; each rear door has a switch that controls the rear interior light. My seat belt warning light appears to be controlled by a switch in the driver's side receptacle as there is a wire coming down out of that which fastens to a connector under the seat - there is no buzzer for this. I think this switch must be buggered as the seat belt light won't go out and is blanked out with a piece of black tape from the previous owner - he told me that he had asked his mechanic about fixing it and the guy said it'd be more bother than it was worth...imagine you'd have to take the seat out at least to get at the receptacle and I don't know if that piece comes apart or not - any ideas or suggestions?
1977 280SE Colorado Gold
1979 280SE Euro model (parts only)

daantjie

That is how mine works too. Many folks unplug the connector as that buzzer is also known as the most annoying sound in the world  ;D
Raise up the seat by the side leaver and shine a flashlight in there. The connector coming from the receptacle is most probably just unplugged.
Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9 - Astralsilber

floyd111

That all sounds nice and well, but what remains is that this car alarm system was definitely an MB option, and was most definitely installed by installing a trigger switch in that second hole in the door.
I can't vouch -as of yet- that the rear doors were connected to that system, but the rear doors did not have key-locks.
The front doors HAD special locking mechanisms as part of this car alarm.
Part number 1167600959, Tur, Griff, Sonderschliessung EDW
Car alarms, back in the day, were not as sophisticated as they are today, but the W116 was well advanced sporting an optional system that would be triggered, even by opening the glove compartment or the tank flap.
I could imagine that the rear doors, having no keyholes, would not be equipped with triggers.

On a side note.. did ALL Euro/USA W116's have this annoying buzzer originally, or was this one of the many way Detroit managed to make people hate MB's?

69-300

BTW in my car a 1974 the second switch is for the windows - as to the seatbelt there was a wire - which was not for the buzzer - but would actually be an electrical switch which would not allow the car to crank unless the seatbelt was buckled - quite annoying actually